K Designing Worlds L
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MAKING SENSE OF HISTORY
Studies in Historical Cultures
General Editor: Stefan Berger
Founding Editor: Jörn Rüsen
Bridging the gap between historical theory and the study of historical memory,
this series crosses the boundaries between both academic disciplines and cultural,
social, political and historical contexts. In an age of rapid globalization, which
tends to manifest itself on an economic and political level, locating the cultural
practices involved in generating its underlying historical sense is an increasingly
urgent task.
For a full volume listing, please see back matter
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DESIGNING WORLDS
National Design Histories in an
Age of Globalization
Edited by Kjetil Fallan and Grace Lees-Maffei
This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
Published in 2016 by
Berghahn Books
www.berghahnbooks.com
© 2016 Kjetil Fallan and Grace Lees-Maffei
All rights reserved. Except for the quotation of short passages
for the purposes of criticism and review, no part of this book
may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or
mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or any information
storage and retrieval system now known or to be invented,
without written permission of the publisher.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Fallan, Kjetil, editor. | Lees-Maffei, Grace, editor.
Title: Designing worlds: national design histories in an age of globalization
/ Edited by Kjetil Fallan and Grace Lees-Maffei.
Description: New York: Berghahn Books, 2016. | Series: Making sense of
history; volume 24 | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2015045907| ISBN 9781785331558 (hardback: alk.
paper) | ISBN 9781785331565 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Design.
Classification: LCC NK1525 .D46 2016 | DDC 745.4--dc23 LC record
available at http://lccn.loc.gov/2015045907
British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
ISBN 978-1-78533-155-8 hardback
ISBN 978-1-78533-156-5 ebook
ISBN 978-1-78533-446-7 open access
The electronic open access publication of Designing Worlds: National Design
Histories in an Age of Globalization has been made possible through the generosity
of the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire.
This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
Contents
List of Illustrations
Introduction: National Design Histories in an Age of Globalization
Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
vii
1
Chapter 1. Designs on/in Africa
dipti bhagat
23
Chapter 2. Does Southern African Design History Exist?
Deirdre Pretorius
42
Chapter 3. Designing the South African Nation: From Nature to
Culture
Jacques Lange and Jeanne van Eeden
Chapter 4. Resisting Global Homogeneity but Craving Global
Markets: Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice in New
Zealand
Claudia Bell
Chapter 5. Creativity within a Geographical-National Framework:
From Modern Japanese Design to Pevsner’s Art Geography
Ariyuki Kondo
Chapter 6. Imagining the Indian Nation: The Design of Gandhi’s
Dandi March and Nehru’s Republic Day Parade
Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan
60
76
93
108
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vi
Contents
Chapter 7. Troubled Geography: Imagining Lebanon in 1960s Tourist
Promotion
Zeina Maasri
125
Chapter 8. Czech Glass or Bohemian Crystal? The Nationality of
Design in the Czech Context
Marta Filipová
141
Chapter 9. The Myth of Danish Design and the Implicit Claims of
Labels
Stina Teilmann-Lock
156
Chapter 10. Altering a Homogenized Heritage: Articulating
Heterogeneous Material Cultures in Norway and Sweden
Kjetil Fallan and Christina Zetterlund
172
Chapter 11. A Special Relationship: The UK-US Transatlantic
Domestic Dialogue
Grace Lees-Maffei
188
Chapter 12. Surveying the Borders: Authenticity in MexicanAmerican Food Packaging, Imagery and Architecture
Nicolas P. Maffei
211
Chapter 13. An Empire of One’s Own: Individualism and Domestic
Built Form in Twenty-First-Century Jamaica
Davinia Gregory
226
Chapter 14. The Quest for Modernity: A Global/National Approach
to a History of Design in Latin America
Patricia Lara-Betancourt
241
Chapter 15. Of Coffee, Nature and Exclusion: Designing Brazilian
National Identity at International Exhibitions (1867 and 1904)
Livia Rezende
259
Index
275
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Illustrations
Fig. 1.1:
Fig. 1.2:
Fig. 1.3:
Fig. 1.4:
Fig. 1.5:
Table 2.1:
Fig. 2.1:
Fig. 2.2:
Fig. 2.3:
Fig. 2.4:
Fig. 3.1:
Fig. 3.2:
Fig. 3.3:
Fuck Afrika I, Garth Walker 2008, inkjet print, reproduced
here by kind permission of Garth Walker.
Stoneware bowl with a thick green celadon glaze inside
and out except for its unglazed centre and base (height –
7.6 cm, diameter – 18 cm); dated circa 1400–1500, Ming
Dynasty, made in Longquan, China, found in Malindi,
Kenyan coast.
Proof coinage of Zimbabwe, 1980 and Zimbabwean One
Hundred Trillion Dollars note, 2008.
South African press image showing a white South African
artist working in the so-called ‘Bushmen’ exhibit at the
1936 Empire Exhibition, held in Johannesburg, South
Africa. Sunday Express, 15 November 1936.
The used clothing market in Lusaka, Zambia.
Design qualifications offered at southern African
higher education institutions
Cover of Image & Text 20, 2012.
Page 19 of Image & Text 20, 2012.
Cover of De Arte 74, 2006.
Pages 12 and 13 of De Arte 74, 2006.
SARPD advertisements in The Illustrated London News.
From left to right: ‘South Africa. The Empire’s sun land’,
28 July 1928; ‘Visit South Africa’s Riviera’, 12 September
1936; ‘South Africa’, 9 October 1937; ‘For speed and
comfort’, poster published by South African Railways &
Airways, circa 1934.
The South African national flag, 1928–1994.
The South African flag (1994, left), Coat of Arms (2000,
centre) and National Orders (2003, right).
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35
37
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53
63
64
69
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viii
Fig. 3.4:
Fig. 3.5:
Fig. 4.1:
Fig. 4.2:
Fig. 4.3:
Fig. 4.4:
Fig. 4.5:
Fig. 5.1:
Fig. 5.2:
Fig. 5.3:
Fig. 5.4:
Fig. 5.5:
Fig. 6.1:
Fig. 6.2:
Fig. 6.3:
Fig. 6.4:
Illustrations
Covers and page spreads from various early editions of
i-juisi magazine.
Façade of the South African Constitutional Court
featuring the custom-designed typeface designed by Garth
Walker.
Chris Johnson’s Imprint Stool, available through web
outlet The Clever Design Store and from Yoyo Furniture,
a Wellington shop dedicated to New Zealand design.
Work in process: a rug designed by Bing Dawe being
handcrafted from wool at Dilana’s Christchurch studio.
Completed rugs: on the wall Solo by John Reynolds;
on the floor Clematis by Tim Main, and Meccano
by John Lyall.
Moa Room, Paris.
Lights by David Trubridge.
Aroha (love) baby blanket, appliqued recycled wool,
featuring a tiki and piwakawaka (fantails) by Rona
Osborne for Native Agent.
Kisuke Shimizu II, Mitsui-gumi House at Kaiun Bridge,
Tokyo, Japan (1872).
Kikutarō Shimoda’s design submitted for the competition
for the Imperial Diet of Japan (1919) evinces his ‘Imperial
Crown Eclecticism’.
Japanese exhibits at the 1873 Vienna International
Exposition.
Candle stand with chrysanthemum design in black
lacquer, an example of Japanese design for Western lifestyle,
mainly produced in the late 1870s and after.
Opening page of Kenkichi Tomimoto’s article on William
Morris, published in two parts in the art journal Bijutsu
Shinpō in February and March 1912.
Miniature sheet of four postage stamps released on
the seventy-fifth anniversary of the Salt Satyagraha in
2005 depicting Gandhi leading the march, the route,
newspaper coverage of the event and his message. The
photograph at the bottom shows the visual appearance of
the group.
View of cultural floats displayed at the Republic Day
Parade, 2013.
The Indian Army’s BrahMos cruise missiles displayed
at the Republic Day Parade, 2013.
DeLappe on treadmill with Gandhi avatar in
background.
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84
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85
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88
95
97
100
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112
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119
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Illustrations
Fig. 6.5:
Fig. 7.1:
Fig. 7.2:
Fig. 7.3:
Fig. 7.4:
Fig. 7.5:
Fig. 8.1:
Fig. 8.2:
Fig. 8.3:
Fig. 8.4:
Fig. 9.1:
Fig. 9.2:
Fig. 9.3:
Fig. 9.4:
Fig. 9.5:
Gandhi avatar at Dandi monument with other avatars.
Advertisement for Lebanon in The Economist, 27 Dec.–2
Jan. 1969–1970. Designed by Mona Bassili Sehnaoui for
The National Council of Tourism in Lebanon.
Poster ‘Lebanon, the summer resort of Arab countries’.
C. early 1950s. Designer anonymous. The General Office
of Tourism and Summer Vacationing. Size: 70×100 cm
lithography. Collection A. Bou Jaoudeh.
Series of leaflets containing touristic information using
as a graphic system a newly designed calligraphic
logo for Lebanon. Designed by Mona Bassili
Sehnaoui for The National Council of Tourism in
Lebanon. C. 1970. 18×10 cm (closed). Collection of the
designer.
Poster ‘Lebanon’. Designed by Mona Bassili Sehnaoui for
The National Council of Tourism in Lebanon. C. 1969.
34×50 cm. Collection of the designer.
Back cover of a tourism brochure with a map of Lebanon
and a North-South locator framing the Mediterranean
Sea. Designed by Mona Bassili Sehnaoui for The National
Council of Tourism in Lebanon. C. 1970. 21×23 cm.
Collection of the designer.
Vratislav Hugo Brunner, A glass with Prague motives,
1922, The Museum of Decorative Arts, Prague, inv.
no. 86.506.
Vase, manufactured by Johann Lötz Witwe, Klášterský
Mlýn, 1908. Roy and Mary Cullen Collection.
Stanislav Libenský – Jaroslava Brychtová, A composition
in grey, 1965. The Museum of North Bohemia,
Liberec. S3331.
Glass as a touristic attraction in Prague, photograph,
2014.
Label in shirt by Danish children’s clothes brand ‘Wheat’
(2014).
Photo depicting ‘Swiss Made’ print on TAG Heuer
watch.
Packaging for Georg Jensen candle holders, 2010.
Label in Donegal tweed, 1959. Fabrics of a similar
type but with a different provenance are often referred to
as ‘donegals’ with lowercase ‘d’.
Label in tunic by Danish fashion brand Margit Brandt,
2013. The brand existed in the 1960s and 1970s and was
relaunched in 2005.
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169
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x
Fig. 10.1:
Fig. 10.2:
Fig. 10.3:
Fig. 10.4:
Fig. 10.5:
Fig. 11.1:
Fig. 11.2:
Fig. 11.3:
Fig. 11.4:
Fig. 11.5:
Fig. 12.1:
Fig. 12.2:
Fig. 12.3:
Fig. 13.1:
Fig. 13.2:
Fig. 13.3:
Illustrations
Photo-mural displayed in the Swedish Pavilion at the New
York World’s Fair in 1939, as reproduced in the exhibition
catalogue.
Interior view of the eighteenth-century Morastugan – the
first building to be relocated to Skansen, forming a key
part of the museum from its opening in 1891.
View of the exhibition interior A Pakistani Home in
Norway – 2002 in the Wessels gate 15 apartment building
at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History (Norsk
Folkemuseum).
View of the exhibition interior Modern Living – 1935
in the Wessels gate 15 apartment building at the Norwegian
Museum of Cultural History (Norsk Folkemuseum).
Pagod, silver ring by Rosa Taikon.
Cover, Betty Crocker’s Guide to Easy Entertaining: How to
Have Guests – And Enjoy Them, New York: Golden Press,
1959. Illustrated by Peter Spier.
‘An Ideal Kitchen Arrangement’, illustration by Stephen
J.Voorhies, Fig. 137 in Emily Post, The Personality of a
House, fourth edition 1948 [1930], New York and London:
Funk and Wagnalls Company, p. 398.
Teen decorator. Image ‘Courtesy Dow Chemical
Company’, in Teen Guide to Homemaking, edited by
Marion Stearns Barclay and Frances Champion, New York
and London: McGraw-Hill Book Company Inc., 1961,
p. 205.
‘Hi-ya, Johnny boy!’ illustration by Nicolas Bentley, in
The Duke of Bedford’s Book of Snobs, John, Duke of Bedford
in collaboration with George Miles, London: Peter Owen,
1965, p. 51.
‘The Kitchen Buffet’, illustration by James Kingsland, in
Mary and Russel Wright, Guide to Easier Living, New York:
Simon and Schuster, 1954 (1950).
Taco Bell, Evergreen Park, Illinois, Fourth of July Parade,
1977.
Postcard, Alamo, San Antonio, Texas, front, 1901–1907.
Las Cazuela Mexican Restaurant, Austin, Texas, 2014.
Hillside house with columns. In this example, the top
floor has recently been added to an existing single-storey
house, and the fashion for elaborate columns has been
included in the later part of the design.
Columns being advertised on the roadside.
Metal column molds on a building site.
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232
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Illustrations
Fig. 13.4:
Fig. 13.5:
Abandoned columns near Maypen, Clarendon.
Inside the building site: large rear windows overlooking
hill precipices are focal points in houses like these.
Fig. 14.1: Jar with Lid (14”), Caballo Blanco Alfar, ca. 1890,
Aguascalientes, Mexico; Giffords Collection.
Fig. 14.2: Set of bombonniers, decanter, tray and cups with
lithographed effigy of Agustín de Iturbide and the
Castle of Chapultepec; cut and coloured glass; Bohemia
manufacture, Czech Republic; ca. 1820; Museo Nacional
de Historia, Mexico.
Fig. 14.3a: The Mexican pavilion at the New Orleans Exhibition
1884–1885; New Orleans Public Library Special
Collections.
Fig. 14.3b: The Mexican pavilion today, known as Kiosco Morisco,
and displayed at the Alameda Santa María La Ribera,
Mexico City.
Fig. 14.4: Conversadeira (love seat), probably late nineteenth century,
Faculdade de Medicina da Bahia, Brazil.
Fig. 14.5: Exterior of Teatro Juárez in Guanajuato, Mexico, ca. 1903.
California Historical Society, Collection at the University
of Southern California.
Fig. 15.1: Main entrance to the Brazilian room installed at
the Champs de Mars palace during the Exposition
Universelle of 1867, Paris. The wall to the left of the portal
was covered in a square pattern alternating the Brazilian
imperial coat of arms and the dragon of the Bragança
dynasty and painted in the Brazilian heraldic colours,
yellow and green. Further left, the South American gaucho
display can be seen.
Fig. 15.2: The ‘virgin forest’ was a monumental display of timber
from the Amazonian Forest designed to impress the world.
It showed timber previously unknown in Europe cut in
horizontal, vertical and diagonal sections to demonstrate
its special material properties. Around the display, a set
designer of the Paris Opéra painted an interpretation of a
tropical forest.
Fig. 15.3: The award-winning Brazilian national pavilion designed
by Colonel Francisco Souza Aguiar in the Beaux-Arts style
for the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St Louis, 1904.
Dubbed the ‘Palace of Coffee’ for its vast exhibition of
coffee on the ground floor, the pavilion helped to conflate
the association between Brazil and coffee in the United
States of America and beyond.
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249
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xii
Fig. 15.4:
Illustrations
The exhibition of coffee mounted in the interior of
the Brazilian national pavilion unusually emphasized
the sensorial experiences of coffee consumption and
production together with its visual displays.Visitors
could touch the beans displayed and smell coffee being
roasted, ground and prepared in the premises. Hot coffee
was served free of charge everyday in dainty little cups
to change consumption habits in the United States of
America.
269
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INTRODUCTIO N
National Design Histories in an Age
of Globalization
Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
Design is simultaneously global, regional, national and local (Calvera 2005), and
it has been so at least since the dramatic increase in intercontinental trade and
travel in the fifteenth century. The Silk Road and the transatlantic slave trade
are examples of the pre-modern and early modern globalization of commerce
associated with the development of similarly global channels of communication
about goods and their design and manufacture. Today, the cars we celebrate as
‘Italian’, for example, could just as well be designed by Britons and Brazilians
and manufactured in Poland and Pakistan, on behalf of multi-national owners,
for markets in Switzerland and Swaziland. But while design might be more
global than ever before, it is still conditioned by, and in turn informs, its global,
regional, national and local contexts at once. Technological developments,
including the world wide web, digital cloud services and CADCAM, enable
collaboration between automotive designers, for example, working anywhere
from Delhi and Detroit to Dubai, but however well-travelled the designers
themselves might be, they operate from within physical contexts in which local,
regional and national as well as international factors are active.
While since the nineteenth century the national has been a dominant category for understanding culture and identity, as well as politics and economics
and a host of other factors, in our own century, mainstream media and academic discourse alike have been preoccupied with globalization (Applebaum
and Robinson 2005). Across the humanities and social sciences, international
developments in higher education, the continuing influence of postcolonial
theory, and the contemporary focus on sustainability, have all exerted an
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2
Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
influence on the ways in which design, particularly, is understood. Design historians have critiqued an existing bias in the field towards Western industrialized nations based on a definition of design derived from its separation from
industrial manufacture. They (we) are now looking further afield in writing
Global Design History, to use the title of a 2011 anthology (Adamson, Riello and
Teasley 2011). In this work, national histories have been criticized as unsuited
to a new global gaze in which contemporary society and historical narratives
are to be freed from the geo-political straightjacket of nation states (Traganou
2011: 166). Arjun Appadurai (1996: 169) has even claimed that the nation state
has become obsolete as a marker of identity construction. Is the nation simply
imagined (Anderson 1983), a modern myth, as Ernest Gellner (1983) claimed?
Or can this admittedly complex construction still be a valuable framework for
histories of design?
The nation state is no longer the only socio-cultural or political-economic
unit forming our identities and experiences, if it ever was, but national and
regional histories of design have demonstrated cogent frameworks for the
discussion of common socio-economic, cultural and identity issues. In the
context of celebrations and moral panics alike concerning the impact of
globalization, it is critically important to recognize that the much-vaunted
global chains of design, manufacturing and commerce are still composed of
national endeavours. Designing Worlds: National Design Histories in an Age of
Globalization aims to rethink the writing of national design histories in light
of the increasing attention to trans-, inter- and supranational understandings
of design, past and present. With contributions from all five continents, it
provides a timely examination of the historiographic and methodological value
of national frameworks in writing design history. This introduction begins by
examining how the dominant national paradigm has been challenged by the
global as an academic, and mainstream, preoccupation, and then argues for the
reconceptualization of the national within the global in design history before
exploring the contribution of the chapters presented in this book.
The Nation and History Writing
The nation and the national have formed perhaps the most widespread and longlasting paradigm in historical scholarship from its origins as an academic discipline in Europe in the mid-nineteenth century (Berger 2005: 631) to the late
twentieth century. Because of the intrinsic relation between academic history
and the political nationalism that gave rise to and consolidated the modern
nation state, the national paradigm and the understanding of what constitutes a
nation in history writing have long remained to a large degree implicit. Today,
however, the awareness that nationhood does not always neatly coincide with
the borders of the nation state necessitates a more reflexive historiography in
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Introduction
3
which more nuanced and contested perceptions and expressions of the national
are brought to the fore. This book contributes to such developments by consolidating the academic endeavour of globalizing design history with the highly
complex co-construction of national identity and material culture, exemplified
by cases probing issues such as geopolitical shifts, migration, ethnic national
minorities, transnational dialogues, international product flows, etc.
Umut Özkirimli’s sound historiographic survey of writing on nations
(2010) sees its origins in a ‘primordial’ understanding of the nation as a natural
entity. Primordial nationalism is supported by a feeling of belonging and emotional iterations of national identity such as patriotism. The continued dominance of the nation as a category of understanding seems to support the idea
that many people accept the nation as, if not natural, then somehow inevitable.
Terms such as motherland, fatherland and homeland merge kinship and territory and underscore a ‘sociobiological’ understanding of the nation in which
the heritage and temporal depth (Grosby 2005: 43, 11) form a macro correlative of the successive generations of a family.
It was only with the widespread influence of poststructuralist theory on the
historical profession from the 1980s onwards that the primacy of the national
as narrative and framework for understanding was seriously challenged. Across
the humanities and social sciences this challenge took the form of a renewed
interest in the national, not as a given or a convenient unit of analysis, but rather
as a constructed entity. Scholarship on the nation focused on deconstructing
its symbolic and representational aspects (Berger 2005: 650–660). Özkirimli
groups three of the key writers on nations – Ernest Gellner, Benedict Anderson
and Eric Hobsbawm – in the ‘modernist’ group, which sought to dismantle the
idea of the nation as natural or inevitable. This group instead revealed nations
as constructs, the results of concerted engagements in the invention of tradition (Hobsbawm and Ranger 1993) and imagined communities (Anderson
1983), albeit with a regrettable emphasis on high culture (Gellner 1983) and
public discourses and practices, rather than everyday or demotic instances of
the national. The undeniably influential theories of national identity proposed
by Gellner, Hobsbawm, Anderson and others have been critiqued most notably
by Tim Edensor for being too singularly focused on ‘high’ culture, ceremonial practices, state interventions and official life. ‘What is missing’ from their
accounts, he claims,‘is a sense of the unspectacular, contemporary production of
national identity through popular culture and everyday life’ (Edensor 2002: 12).
This has significant implications for recognition of the importance of design
in communicating national identity, as we shall see below. Design extends to
everything that is planned and/or made; design history enjoys therefore a broad
area of enquiry, not limited to high or official culture, nor confined purely to
popular culture.
Özkirimli then turns to ethnosymbolist approaches to the nation, including
Anthony D. Smith’s examination of the nation and ethnicities, before arriving
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4
Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
at ‘new’ approaches to nationalism characterized by the work of five theorists
informed variously by postcolonial and feminist theory (on which, see also
Blom, Hagemann and Hall 2004) and including, notably for the study of
design understood as a demotic phenomenon, Michael Billig’s work on ‘banal
nationalism’ (1995). Özkirimli adduces from his survey a synthetic approach
which takes the best from the literature across the categories he reviews, to
arrive at an understanding of the national as ‘neither illusory nor artificial, but
[. . .] socially constituted and institutional, hence “real” in its consequences and
a very “real” part of our everyday lives’ (Özkirimli 2010: 217). He closes his
book with a call for greater collaboration between theorists of nationalism who
all too often operate in an abstract mode with insufficient reference to specific
empirical examples, and historians who ignore theoretical developments in
favour of ‘descriptive narratives of particular nationalisms’ (Özkirimli 2010:
219).
Postcolonialism and the Nation
Poststructuralist approaches to understanding nations, and the detractors of
this work, have been accompanied by work informed by postcolonial theory.
Because the modern nation state is a recent construct, and one that was
transposed and translated to the non-Western world as part of, and in the wake
of, colonialism, its role in historical narratives has preoccupied postcolonialist
historiography. Dipesh Chakrabarty, for instance, argues that ‘European
thought is at once both indispensable and inadequate in helping us to think
through the experiences of political modernity in non-Western nations, and
provincializing Europe becomes a task of exploring how this thought – which
is now everybody’s heritage and affects us all – may be renewed from and for
the margins’ (Chakrabarty 2000: 16). The histories of modern non-Western
nations are better understood by reading the reception and rethinking in these
societies of colonial thought than by discarding it – the latter would amount to
‘postcolonial revenge’, a less productive strategy (Gandhi 1998: x).
Crucially, however, postcolonialist theory has also led to a renewal – and
improvement – of the national paradigm in historiography. A key example
is Partha Chatterjee’s critique of Benedict Anderson’s claim that colonial
nationalism was inevitably based on European models. Chatterjee argues that
this is a misconception caused by historians prioritizing the political realms
of society over the cultural, and that a cultural history of colonial nations
will reveal the emergence of modern national cultures independent of, or
at least parallel to, the Western-dominated colonial state (Chatterjee 2010:
23–36). Similarly, and again based on examples from the history of the
previously colonized world, Chatterjee dismissed as premature Appadurai’s call
to move beyond the nation (Appadurai 1996: 158–177), arguing instead for
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Introduction
5
increased attention to historical processes ‘located on a different site – not the
moral-cultural ground of modernity and the external institutional domain
of global civil society but rather the ground of democracy and the internal
domain of national political society’ (Chatterjee 2010: 176). Also, it bears
mention that national narratives in non-Western societies such as India and
China long predate the modern Western nation state and its historiography
(Woolf 2006).
Taking Fernando Ortiz’s notion of transculturation as his example, Walter
Mignolo has even critiqued postcolonial perspectives for their reliance on the
national framework: ‘either you find a nation-state that becomes an empire
(like Spain or England) or one undergoing uprisings and rebellions to become
autonomous, working towards the foundation of a nation’ (Mignolo 2000: 16).
In an effort to move beyond such dichotomies, however, it has been suggested
that the marginalization of the colonized world is as much a product of
postcolonialism itself as one of colonialism, in that the process of marginalization
and separatism, at least in the case of the Arab world, ‘coincided with the
self-conscious desire of the Arabs to disentangle themselves from the colonizers’
history, the history of the West, and to rewrite their independent national history
and reconstruct their cultural identity’ (Akkach 2014: 70).
Although the modern nation-state is emphatically a nineteenth-century
European construct, this book argues that national frameworks for design historical analyses can be highly rewarding also beyond the conventional geographies of the field. In fact, more than half of the chapters focus on previously
colonized regions including Southern Africa, the Middle East, the Caribbean
and Latin America. These case studies provide much-needed knowledge on
the design histories of underexplored nations and regions, but more importantly, for our project, they also offer new and unique understandings of how
design cultures are formed and operationalized in the complex and contested
processes of forging societies, collectives, communities, institutions and identities. Whether they analyse how Brazil constructed an official national identity as exotic, yet modern at international exhibitions in the late nineteenth
century, or how today design discourse in New Zealand grapples with ownership of Maori design traditions, these contributions all demonstrate not only
that the design histories of postcolonial nations can benefit from a reflexive
national framework, but also that they are crucial to the book’s aim of exploring how design culture in the modern world is shaped by the intersection of
the national and the global. The African nations defined by the 1885 Berlin
Conference are often thought of as haphazard. However, as shown in, for
example, Marta Filipova’s chapter on glass as a national identity marker in
what today is known as the Czech Republic, and Ariyuki Kondo’s chapter on
the cultural exchanges between Europe and Japan during the Meiji era, international geopolitical developments have important implications for national
design histories across the globe. Similarly, dipti bhagat’s discussion of how
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Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
international trade in second-hand clothing is integral to Zambian design
culture illuminates Stina Teilmann-Lock’s analysis of how ‘Danish Design’
has moved from signifying ‘made in Denmark’ to now implying ‘designed in
Denmark’ (but made elsewhere).
From Nation to Nation: Other Alternative Approaches
Different scales of focus have been tested, most notably by the French Annales
School (see, for instance, Braudel 1969), while social history, history of
everyday life and micro history have tended to focus on other units of analysis,
for example the family, the village and the region. More recent alternatives to
the national paradigm have included comparative history and transnational
history. An example of the former, which is relevant to the history of design,
is Greg Castillo’s 2010 examination of the significance of homes during the
Cold War as demonstrations of the relative merits of socialist and capitalist
societies and associated lifestyles. Castillo ranges comparatively across East and
West, Soviet bloc and the US in tracing this argument through the material
culture of the competing regimes and the discourses which surrounded it.
And design historians will have much to gain from considering the work of
the major Tensions of Europe project and the associated Making Europe book
series, which applies a transnational approach to the study of how Europe and
Europeanness have been constructed by and around people, ideas, knowledge
and technology in constant movement across national borders (see especially
Oldenziel and Hård 2013). This work is extremely valuable for elucidating
and exemplifying the place of design and technology in understanding nations
and their interactions. Ultimately, though, both comparative history and
transnational history rely on the nation as entity and conceptual category,
and therefore produce histories that complement rather than contest
national histories. Also complementary are regional histories, whether of
regions within nations, such as the study of North East America by Daniel
Maudlin and Robin Peel (2013), or supranational regions such as Scandinavia
(Fallan 2012).
Larger alternatives to the national paradigm include the growing fields
of world history and global history. Design historical interventions in these
categories includeVictor Margolin’s monumental World History of Design which
combines a chronological arrangement with regional and national perspectives
(Margolin 2015) and the anthology Global Design History (Adamson, Riello
and Teasley 2011) which emphasizes an object-centred perspective as well as
global connections and flows. The textbook survey History of Design: Decorative
Arts and Material Culture, 1400–2000 (Kirkham and Weber 2013) also aims
for global coverage (albeit with the exclusion of Australia/Oceania in the
first edition). Aligning the ‘material turn’ in the humanities with the desire
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Introduction
7
to move beyond the Western bias of most fields, Ruth Phillips argues that ‘It
is no accident that a concern with materiality has accompanied the rise of
global consciousness and the reframing of curricula and research in “world”
terms – e.g. “world” history, art history, literatures’. Their congruence, she
claims, is facilitated by the material turn’s friendliness to ‘critical analysis of
alternative sensory regimes’ (Phillips 2013: 140). World histories of design,
then, are alluring because things lend themselves to cross-cultural translation
and understanding. However, a warning is sounded about world history from
advocates of border studies, Tony Fry and Eleni Kalantidou, that: ‘The plural
nature of design cannot any longer be gathered and contained within any
homogenizing frame notwithstanding for a “world history of design” to be
“manufactured” within design history’ (Fry and Kalantidou 2014: 6; see also
Fry 1989). National studies may be too bounded by borders, but they are
perhaps less prone to generalizing about the commonality of huge international
regions than the project of world history.
Clearly, the historiography of recent decades demonstrates that there are
multiple challenges to the national framework in the writing of history, and
alternative approaches abound. Notwithstanding these highly significant and
influential developments in historical scholarship, the national paradigm is far
from discarded – if anything, it is resurging. Stefan Berger has pointed to the
political turmoil following the end of the Cold War as a catalyst for this renewed
interest in national histories: ‘The nation is about to return to the historical
stage, as it is still widely identified as the most powerful community of memory’
(Berger 2005: 673). The new national histories are, however, significantly
different from the homogenizing, monolithic narratives so prominent in
traditional historiography:
Where the old national paradigms worked on the basis of ‘othering’ and inclusion/
exclusion mechanisms, the new histories have steadfastly opposed excluding
certain stories in order to make the overall story a homogeneous one. [. . .] The
historical master narrative needs to be pluralized in order to arrive at more tolerant
and playful forms of cultural identity. (Berger 2005: 678)
National histories have been portrayed as outmoded and static, for example
by François Hartog, who has asked ‘How should we write national history
without reactivating the patterns of nineteenth century historiography: that is
to say, the close association of progress and the nation . . . or without presenting
it as a paradise lost?’ (Hartog 1996: 112). Such worries, however, seem to be
predicated on an outmoded and static understanding of the nation itself as analytical category. If the nation is instead conceived of as a dynamic, ever evolving
entity – as an ‘essentially contested concept’ (Lorenz 2008: 30) – sidestepping
the trap described by Hartog seems possible. As we argue in this volume, the
national framework – although contested – remains a vital and rewarding organizational concept in the writing of history not in spite of its contested character, but because of it.
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Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
Globalized Nations
We live in an age of globalization. Globalization clearly has ramifications for the
role of national frameworks and the experience of national identities. However,
at the same time, ‘we live in a nationalized world. The concept of the nation
is central to the dominant understandings of both political community and of
personal identity’ (Cubitt 1998: 1). The increased mobility of people, products
and information alike might be making the conceptual grid of nationality
more complex than ever, but it is not eradicating it. According to Tim Edensor,
‘globalisation and national identity should not be conceived in binary terms
but as two inextricably interlinked processes’, because ‘as global cultural flows
become more extensive, they facilitate the expansion of national identities
and also provide cultural resources which can be domesticated, enfolded
within popular and everyday national cultures’ (Edensor 2002: 29). Similarly,
Anthony Smith has argued that far from rendering nations, nationalism and
national identities obsolete, globalization reinforces and recasts their roles in
contemporary society (Smith 1995). Writing history today, then, should be less
about pitching the global against the local, regional and national, and more a
matter of exploring the interactions and influences between these different
scales: ‘As each scale of observation and analysis is associated with specific
cognitive benefits, the very principle of a variation of scales is more important
than the choice of one single scale’ (Revel 2010: 59).
So far, we have briefly reviewed the diminishing dominance of the national
paradigm, and a range of alternatives, to reach the current state of the art in
the historiography of nations: recognition that the local, regional, national and
global operate in dynamic simultaneity. It is from this position that we must
now consider design and national identity.
Design and National Identity
Constructivist approaches to national identity have incorporated design culture
in their analyses to some extent, but largely in passing and rarely with much
new insight into the meaning and role of designed artefacts. In calling for an
interdisciplinary approach to the study of national narratives, Stefan Berger
insists that scholars from across the arts and humanities ‘need to study fictional,
artistic, musical, visual and historiographic representations of the national pasts
alongside each other’ (Berger 2008: 10). Few studies to date have, however,
systematically incorporated design in such examinations. The material culture
invoked in these studies has on the whole been restricted to that which can be
said to have an explicitly symbolic function, such as flags, coinage, folk costumes,
monuments, etc. (see, for example, Billig 1995). Whereas others have called for
greater attention also to material culture with less overtly nationalist symbolism,
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Introduction
9
this remains a little explored venue (Smith 1991: 77; 2001: 7; Edensor 2002: 12).
Edensor’s critique of the work of Gellner, Hobsbawm, Anderson, Smith and
Hutchinson as useful but ultimately neglectful of popular culture and everyday life as scalar practices is perhaps most pertinent as a call for greater design
historical examination of national identity. In noting that ‘The intimate relationships between people and the things they make (or used to make) become
important signifiers of identity for national communities’, Edensor recognizes
that ‘mass manufactured commodities are associated with particular nations,
also often carrying mythic associations that connote particular qualities and
forms of expertise’ (Edensor 2002: 105). Therefore, the relationship between
design and national identity is both extremely practical, concrete and material, and operates at the level of the public imaginary, myth and symbol: ‘In the
face of globalisation, commonly shared things anchor people to place’ (Edensor
2002: 116). Designers are responsible not only for the livery and regalia of
state and monarchy, and the flags, currency, stamps and other insignia of the
public-facing nation; they also furnish our everyday surroundings with goods
and services which are taken for granted and have been largely excluded from
examinations of national identity to date. Yet, as historians increasingly engage
with material culture, this regrettable lacuna is slowly being addressed.
In the introduction to his popular project A History of theWorld in 100 Objects,
Neil MacGregor emphasizes the role of designed artefacts in narrating national
histories in a global context: ‘All round the world national and communal
identities are increasingly being defined through new readings of their history,
and that history is frequently anchored in things’ (MacGregor 2012: xxv). For
example, in some former colonies experiencing industrialization relatively late
when compared with Western nations, design was considered an important
‘way for countries on the periphery to come to terms with modernity, with the
modern project, and not only in the realm of industry, but also in that of social
organization’ (Bonsiepe 1991: 252). Since Gui Bonsiepe wrote these words
nearly a generation ago, the notion of a periphery, which implies a centre, has
been challenged and a model of multiple centres is now more accepted as a way
of understanding cultural difference on a global scale (Calvera 2005; Kikuchi
and Lee 2014: 325). This position undergirds particularly the chapters in this
book by dipti bhagat and Livia Rezende.
However, the intimate relations between design, designed goods and
national identity are equally prominent in what are often termed ‘post-industrial
societies’, where national industrial heritage and national design heritage become
key identity markers. Examples abound in the UK, the first industrialized
nation, where the Big Pit National Coal Museum in South Wales switched
in 1980 from being a productive coal mine to part of the National Museum
Wales. It has been successful in providing an immersive heritage experience for
visitors from around the UK and internationally. Other examples include the
UNESCO World Heritage site at Ironbridge in England, which is home to ten
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Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
museums commemorating the ‘birthplace of industry’ including, in addition to
the Iron Bridge itself, the Coalport China Museum and Coalbrookdale Iron
Museum among others (Ironbridge 2015). The negotiation of design heritage
is seen, for example, in a region that is world famous for its design heritage –
Scandinavia – as is demonstrated in the chapters that follow, by Stina TeilmannLock (on the legal implications of Denmark’s design heritage) and by Kjetil
Fallan and Christina Zetterlund (on museological practice which challenges
and usefully complicates an existing normative homogenizing narrative). Fallan
has suggested elsewhere that ‘products clearly identified with national industrial
heritage have become increasingly important identity markers in our time of
“liquid modernity”, and their capacity to convey and evoke memories of temps
perdu is more significant than ever’ (Fallan 2013: 81). A good example of the
practice he points to is found in the remarkable popularity in contemporary
New Zealand of collecting ‘kiwiana’ – objects seen as emblematic of recent
national history and cultural identity (Bell 2013), as Claudia Bell elaborates in
her chapter here.
However, design history has not only revealed how designed objects
can function as national identity markers (Aynsley 1993); it has also provided
sharp criticism of the same phenomenon, challenging the celebratory myths
surrounding stereotypical national design icons (Jackson 2002; 2006). This
essential anti-essentialist project has informed subsequent scholarship in the
field such as Fallan’s revisionist collection of essays on Scandinavian design
(Fallan 2012) and our joint work on Italian design. In the latter, Lees-Maffei
has pointed out that a tendency to privilege the acts of ideation and design,
rather than the processes of manufacturing, mediation and consumption, in
determining provenance for goods persists, even in the light of widespread
recognition of the global nature of contemporary design (Lees-Maffei 2014:
287 ff.). Critiques of the association of design and national identity and work
in design history which has supported reductive or overly programmatic
instances of such associations have been informed, to a greater or lesser degree
by postcolonialism, discussed above. D.J. Huppatz has complained that ‘Whereas
it is by now widely acknowledged that the histories of modernism and of
colonialism are deeply entangled, design history has not properly explored this
connection’ (Huppatz 2010: 33).Yuko Kikuchi and Yunah Lee have been similarly critical of the extent to which what they characterize as ‘Euroamerican’
design history has failed to integrate work from outside that region, such as
the emerging scholarship on East Asian design history, and has also failed to
take account of design histories in languages other than English (Kikuchi 2011;
Kikuchi and Lee 2014). The problems associated with languages in design
history writing will not easily be solved without significantly better funding
for bi-lingual publication, massively increased linguistic capacity among design
historians, or perhaps a technical solution facilitating translations of a quality
suitable for academic work. In the meantime, design historians can continue
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Introduction
11
working on the more extensive coverage of design, variously defined, around
the world, informed by the recognition of the impact of colonialism and
postcolonialism alike:
the history of design is entangled with the history of colonialism, even if this
appears to be deliberately avoided in most design history discourses. It was not
just design in the colonial spaces that perpetuated or supported colonialism; design
in the ‘metropoles’ made use of a seemingly unlimited supply of raw materials,
contributed to the rise of consumerism and created demand for products that
perpetuated the colonial system of exploitation of labour, extraction of raw
materials and environmental destruction. (Pereira and Gillett 2014: 113)
Much work in this direction remains to be done and it is a promising
project which should continue to yield rich results for understanding design. A
recent example is Arden Stern’s study of how the hand-painted store-front signs
in Lusaka, Zambia ‘are visually linked to globally dominant design practices’,
yet ‘their creators simultaneously imbue graphics of diverse geographic,
historical and cultural provenance with Zambian specificity’ through a process
of domestication (Stern 2014: 406). Postcolonial approaches have informed
many of the chapters in this volume in various ways and now we will turn to
the contribution of this book.
The Contribution of this Book
Designing Worlds responds to the small currently published literature on global
design history, and the difficulty of obtaining evidence to support work on
this topic, by contributing an original and innovative reassessment of the role
of national histories. The fifteen chapters which follow are written by senior
and emerging scholars from a range of nations within all five continents.
The geographic arrangement of the chapters is intended to make clear the
importance of borders. Nations are not isolated; rather, they are contiguous
with other nations. Several of the chapters show this explicitly, for example
Zeina Maasri writing about tourist campaigns for Lebanon at the intersection
of East and West, Nicolas P. Maffei on the Texas-Mexico border as a productive
ground for mixed cultures and cuisines, and Grace Lees-Maffei on a transatlantic
domestic dialogue, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean. Comparative, transnational
and border studies approaches provide design historians with ways of going
beyond the regions which have received disproportionate levels of attention
in the field. In this book, the USA is approached through its borders, in the
chapters by Nicolas P. Maffei and Grace Lees-Maffei just mentioned, and in the
chapters examining the constituent parts of the larger Americas (see below for
a discussion of comparative approaches).
This book aims to overcome the ‘descriptive narratives of particular
nationalisms’ characterized by Özkirimli as typifying the drawbacks of existing
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Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
work in history on nationalism (2010: 219). The authors of the chapters
here articulate methodological and historiographic issues attendant upon the
interface of design, its histories and the nation. For example, as can be the case
with other types of historical research, one problem in writing national histories
of design has been the lack of available sources. This applies to countries with
highly developed design cultures and historiographies, just as it does to less
well-known national design stories. Recently, an important archive in Germany
was threatened with closure and dispersal, but in some nations design has
not been archived or preserved at all because there is little tangible design
infrastructure. As Fallan and Zetterlund argue in their chapter, the problem
of ‘missing materialities’ is particularly pertinent when seeking to articulate
the heterogeneity of national design histories to include ethnic, national and
social minorities whose material culture has been neglected by state institutions.
Patricia Lara-Betancourt addresses the scarcity of archives and infrastructure
in relation to Latin America, while Deirdre Pretorius seeks evidence of an
academic design community in the South African region. Recently, D.J.
Huppatz and Grace Lees-Maffei conducted an international survey of the state
of design history which showed that it was growing into new regions and
nations (Huppatz and Lees-Maffei 2013), so this issue of missing archives and
absent or emerging infrastructures is likely to become more prominent as design
history develops globally.
In order to better understand the design history of the national within the
global, the chapters in this book analyse different geographical areas. Authors
examine the issue at the level of continents (Africa, and Latin America within
the South American continent, or subcontinent of the Americas), supranational
regions (Latin America, Scandinavia as represented by Norway and Sweden),
transnational studies (Norway and Sweden; Japan understood through the eyes
of an émigré German in Britain; the UK and USA in a domestic dialogue;
hybrid food cultures in the USA and Mexico; returnees from Britain in Jamaica)
and the nation state (South Africa, India, Lebanon, Czechoslovakia, Denmark
and Brazil, among others). Some stories which are worth telling retain national
boundaries, of course, but where a single nation state is the focus in this book, it
is understood in relation to others, so that the representation of a nation on the
global stage is the concern in Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan’s analysis of Ghandi’s
Dandi March and Nehru’s Republic Day Parade as it is in Livia Rezende’s
examination of Brazil’s national representation in international exhibitions of
1867 and 1904. Even where the focus is domestic national identity packaged
for domestic consumption, as in the case of Claudia Bell’s chapter on Kiwiana,
international comparisons are crucial.
What the chapters show us, collectively, is that the comparative method
is essential for understanding the national. The treatment of South Africa here
raises issues commonly raised in relation to other states establishing or refashioning national identities. In this book we see, for example, India’s articulation of
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Introduction
13
national identity in Nehru’s Republic Day Parade and arguments about shifting
national identities played out in Czech glass and Bohemian crystal. If we were
to push the comparative method further here (which we have not done in order
better to explore a range of approaches), Claudia Bell’s analysis of ‘Kiwiana’
may be compared with US and Canadian ‘Native American’ beaded and other
goods made in Taiwan and sold in indigenous shops, including those on reservations in the late 1960s and 1970s. And Zeina Maasri’s study of Lebanese tourist
campaigns might incorporate a comparison with Iran to give a more complex
picture of the Middle East region. Comparative design history needs to demonstrate the dynamism of Ortiz’ transculturation and Bhabha’s hybridity; see
chapters 11 and 14 for discussions of hybridity in the history of design.
In the opening chapter, dipti bhagat states at the outset, in response to
the homogenizing generalization so often bestowed upon the vast and
heterogeneous continent of Africa in media and public discourse, that she does
not ‘treat “Africa as if it were one country”; rather she recognizes that the
“category”, or the “sign” of Africa [. . .] persists’. She pays attention to ‘supple
conceptions of local, national, regional and long distance connections of the
continent that became Africa’. Ultimately, bhagat argues, it is ‘by highlighting
the complexity of African engagement with other places in the world – an
interaction which is often asymmetrical – involving objects and people, ideas,
processes and intentions, design histories in / of Africa might throw off the
shackles of its categories of Eurocentric exclusion and embrace an interdisciplinary approach to scholarship’.
Deirdre Pretorius continues this questioning project in her chapter ‘Does
Southern African Design History Exist?’ She examines the region of Southern
Africa rather than one of its constituent nation states. Her chapter therefore
invites consideration of the process of detecting a cogent unit of study in
geographic terms: if design history appears to be absent from the African
countries, can we achieve greater critical mass by looking at a region, such as
the Southern African region? Does that regional approach make more sense
than a national one for nations where design history is not as prominent as it
is elsewhere? Pretorius responds to this dilemma by seeking to determine a
cogent unit of study in academic terms; if design history is largely obscured,
where can we look for it? She demonstrates the value of detective work in
higher education institutions, in the curricula, in journal coverage and in
conference activity, to piece together evidence of a Southern African design
history.
Our final chapter concerning Africa sees Jacques Lange and Jeanne van
Eeden focus on the South African Nation. In discussing the role played by
design and designers during key moments in that nation’s history from 1910
to today, the authors demonstrate the impact of the paucity of documentary
materials. Designers communicated ‘different versions of nationhood’ scripted
by successive governments: ‘Colonial legacies of visual stereotyping in terms of
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Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
race and national identity were found to be wanting, and a new, more inclusive
and representative visual vocabulary was established that reflected and possibly
helped to construct this emerging Africanization’.
In moving from Africa to New Zealand, we discover in Claudia Bell’s
chapter ‘Resisting Global Homogeneity but Craving Global Markets: Kiwiana
and Contemporary Design Practice in New Zealand’ how contemporary
designers have sought to utilize Maori visual culture. Notwithstanding a
consensus that Maori motifs should be reserved for Maori-made artefacts,
‘Maoriana’ goods are mass produced in Chinese and Taiwanese factories,
thereby raising questions about heritage, authenticity and meaning. Bell shows
the significance of quotidian demotic design for national identity in a way
that responds to Edensor’s critique of the emphasis on high culture and public
design in existing studies of nations.
Ariyuki Kondo continues the examination of ‘the idea of the national
character of a nation’s art and design’ in his case study of the development
of modern Japanese design in the Meiji era (1868 to 1912) in tandem with
Nikolaus Pevsner’s ideas about ‘a new geographical historiography of art’ in
which the nation is understood as a ‘self-conscious cultural entity’. Pevsner
anticipated the ideas of Gellner and Anderson by several decades. Pevsner’s
approach has contemporary relevance in being distanced from ‘the anathema of
ultra-nationalism and racialism’, Kondo argues.
The nation, national identity and nationalism are all consciously and
actively designed in certain circumstances. Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan examines the design of large-scale public events as instances of the construction of nationhood in the context of postcolonial reconstruction. Mahatma
Gandhi’s Dandi March (1930) and Jawaharlal Nehru’s Republic Day Parade
(from 1951) deploy similar design strategies in dissimilar ways to articulate
‘very different conceptions of India’. Nehru’s Parade instances the invention
of tradition – by a diverse range of criteria – which has been so critical in
fostering national identity (Hobsbawm and Ranger 1993). In comparing the
two events, Balasubrahmanyan concludes that ‘If disobedience was the leitmotif of the Dandi March, then obedience and routinized falling-in-line was
the organizing principal of the Republic Day parade’. This chapter suggests
‘a methodological shift which illuminates how design imagination and design
praxis is deployed by agents who have hitherto not been considered designers,
thus opening up a rich ground for fresh exploration in diverse global settings’.
Furthermore, it points to ‘a reciprocal lens whereby the evolution of a particular strand of Indian nationalism in the context of the country’s colonial experience is revealed through design, and the examination of that strand in turn
reveals design as a space and mode of action in the political domain’. Finally,
by examining what Balasubrahmanyan calls the ‘afterlife’ of these two events,
the chapter has implications for designers in that their agency is ‘transferred to
new actors’ as ‘design is ever a work in progress’.
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Introduction
15
Moving to the Middle East, Zeina Maasri analyses promotional prints issued
by the National Council for Tourism in 1960s–1970s Lebanon. Noting that the
Tourism Council and its agents – graphic designers included – chose ‘to promote
the country as a modern European-styled Mediterranean tourist destination’,
she considers the implications of this strategy in the context of conflicting politics of nationhood and belonging in the Arab world. Maasri’s chapter uses the
case study of Lebanon to present ‘new understandings of how design for the
tourism industry intersects with processes of nation building and modernization in postcolonial contexts’ which ‘complicate a putative binary between the
West and non-West in design historiography’. Lived experience rarely conforms
to binary oppositions, and the Lebanon case deftly demonstrates what Jacques
Derrida and Dominick LaCapra term supplementarity:‘Supplementarity reveals
why analytic distinctions necessarily overlap in “reality”, and why it is misleading to take them as dichotomous categories’ (LaCapra 1983: 152).
In turning to a region which has received a disproportionately large
amount of attention in existing design historical scholarship, we examine
Europe through the Czech Republic and the Scandinavian countries, and how
these nations are managing their rich design heritage in a rapidly changing
society. Marta Filipová pays attention to the development of perceived national,
cultural and ethnic characteristics in design and the discourse surrounding that
design. In her case study she shows how categories of understanding glass
have been based on assumptions about Czech, Bohemian and Czechoslovak
identities and the market desire for a perceived authenticity intimately relating
design to specific national geographies and manufacturing traditions.
The idea of authenticity is key to the following chapter, ‘The Myth of
Danish Design and the Implicit Claims of Labels’ by Stina Teilmann-Lock.The
legal protection of design is a topic that reveals the continued significance of
national frameworks. Intellectual property rights vary enormously in different
national contexts, as legislation is deeply entrenched in the structures of national
legislative bodies and processes (Pouillard 2011; 2013; Teilmann-Lock 2012;
2014; Gorman 2014). Consequently, Carma Gorman argues, ‘it is important
– sometimes even essential – to study design from a national perspective’
(Gorman 2014: 270). Teilmann-Lock shows the category of Danish design
as having been constructed by marketing professionals and design mediators
both within and outside Demark. She concludes by considering unsuccessful
attempts to foster a European design identity, which have foundered in the face
of persistent national cultures of design within Europe’s ‘design nations’. As
such, her study is an example of how ‘local design cultures are both challenged
and enabled by the increasing globalization of the marketplace’ (Fiss 2009: 3).
Staying in Scandinavia, Kjetil Fallan and Christina Zetterlund consider
the methodological issues involved in challenging a ‘homogenized heritage’
through examination of ‘heterogeneous material cultures in Norway and
Sweden’. Dipesh Chakrabarty noted at the beginning of the century that:
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Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
the question of including minorities in the history of the nation has turned out
to be a much more complex problem than a simple operation of applying some
already settled methods to a new set of archives and adding the results to the
existing collective wisdom of historiography. (Chakrabarty 2000: 107)
Rather, it requires rethinking some of the fundamental tenets of historical
scholarship. In Scandinavian design history, what surfaces as particularly poignant
in this context is the field’s almost symbiotic and rarely problematized relationship
with modernism (in historiography and design alike). Questioning the absence
of minority material culture in Norwegian and Swedish design history, Fallan
and Zetterlund link these omissions to key features of Scandinavian design
historiography such as the use of carefully selected national typologies and
traditions to legitimize the modernist mission of much design discourse and
design history throughout the twentieth century as well as to methodological
challenges such as a dearth of archival material and the thorny issue of inclusion/
exclusion in identity formations through ‘border maintenance’.
The remainder of the book addresses the Americas. While Fallan and
Zetterlund in part provide a comparative analysis pertaining to two nation
states within the region of Scandinavia, Grace Lees-Maffei’s chapter offers a
transnational examination of two countries that are technically neighbours,
albeit divided by the Atlantic Ocean. In ‘A Special Relationship: The UK-US
Transatlantic Domestic Dialogue’ Lees-Maffei reviews the limitations of singlenation studies which fail to incorporate comparative or transnational analyses,
and argues in favour of a more comprehensive adoption of comparative studies
in design history. Comparative design histories are few (exceptions include
Castillo 2010, mentioned above). Not only does comparative analysis help to
alleviate the risk of erroneous periodization attendant upon extrapolating from
a single nation case, and the tendency to assume as evidence of national identity
trends which are in fact international or transnational, but it also provides a
more accurate account of cultural development freed from the piecemeal
disaggregated picture assembled through successive national histories. The call
for transnational approaches is not new, but it is necessary in design history.
As well as proposing that design history should be studied comparatively, and
being based on the belief that national identity cannot be understood purely
from within the nation (Lees-Maffei 2013), Lees-Maffei’s chapter differs from
much work on national identity in design which examines public manifestations
intended for international audiences such as exhibitions, international fairs,
parades and tourist posters and tourist wares. Lees-Maffei analyses instead a
design discourse, domestic advice, which is intended for a domestic market
and does not explicitly set out to communicate national identity. The fact that
the treatment of the national is not explicit in these sources does not mean
that it does not exist. Indeed, they are replete with guidance on consumption
and other practices which can be read as evidence of the communication of
national tendencies and identities.
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Introduction
17
Nicolas P. Maffei also examines design and the national in the USA
through reference to one of the USA’s neighbours, and returns to the issue of
perceived authenticity, this time in relation to the case study of the imagery
of Mexican-American food packaging and architecture. Border theory – the
interdisciplinary examination of spatial, political, social and cultural borders –
has been used as a way of thinking about the interfaces of nation states. Borders
of various kinds condition many aspects of contemporary life, including the
way in which design is understood. Maffei’s historiographic survey identifies
homogenization, harmonization and ‘inauthentic authenticity’ as key narratives
in the writing on Mexican-American food cultures. Food design is an emergent
field in design history; here the intersection of food and design is shown to be
a ‘cultural battleground where an asymmetrical power relationship advantages
Anglo producers’ and where the manipulation of so-called authenticity increases
sales.
Like Bell’s examination of ‘mundane’ design, Davinia Gregory examines
a case study of demotic design, specified by customers and builders rather
than designers and architects. Her chapter examines the forms of domestic
architecture in twenty-first-century Jamaica and specifically the significance
of classical columns. Clearly, the columns and porticos of classical architecture
have been adopted in many nations around the world as symbolic of substance
and rationalism, hence their regular use in the architecture of government
and learning. However, in Jamaica such architectural forms denote a highly
particularized relationship between homeland, the adopted home of immigrant
destinations and the successful return to the native land for comfortable repose
and reflection. Similar architectural features embody distinct meanings in
specific geo-cultural, and in this case national, contexts. Gregory’s chapter is
also exemplary of the integration of subjectivity into the writing of design
history (Fallan and Lees-Maffei 2015), a methodological approach which offers
another dimension to the understanding of design and its histories.
In proposing ‘A Global/National Approach to a History of Design in Latin
America’, Patricia Lara-Betancourt argues that replacing an emphasis on the
‘only national’ with an approach which encompasses the ‘global and national’
entails examination of the effects of assimilation and appropriation in ‘sophisticated networks of trade, world exploration and cultural sovereignty’ and recognition of how these processes impact upon local heritages. Lara-Betancourt shows
Latin America shaking off a colonial identity in favour of a European-inspired
modernity. While Asian and Middle Eastern nations were more circumspect in
their responses to European goods, standards and ideals, Latin Americans associated their adoption with progress. She concludes her chapter by suggesting that
European modernism may not have flourished without this Latin American
adoption and that it was more accurately a global and transnational achievement: ‘It is by focusing on this dual perspective that it becomes possible to
appreciate the significance of the transnational interplay within a global stage’.
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18
Grace Lees-Maffei and Kjetil Fallan
The final chapter details Livia Rezende’s analysis of the ways in which
Brazilian national identity has been communicated using materials and manufacture, design and consumption, through the case study of international exhibitions. Design historians within and outside Brazil have neglected to examine
the artefacts by which Brazil represented itself internationally in these exhibitions because they pre-date the ‘arrival’ of modern design. However, since 2000,
new work presenting a more accurate and heterogeneous picture of design in
Brazil has emerged. Rezende’s concluding call for ‘a move from discipline territorialization towards the making of a design professional and academic practice
that includes the wider material and conceptual production of the Brazilian
population while connecting them to global experiences’ echoes that of the
preceding chapter.
Conclusion
Studies of the national in design must now place their subject within the contexts of the local, regional and global at once if they are to accurately reflect the
processes by which design is produced, mediated and consumed in our century.
In discussing several possible arrangements for the chapters within this book,
we imagined ourselves circumnavigating the globe from Africa to Australasia,
East and South Asia, via the Middle East and through Europe to the Americas.
We hope you enjoy the ride.
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Introduction
21
Grace Lees-Maffei is Reader in Design History and Director of DHeritage,
the Professional Doctorate in Heritage at the University of Hertfordshire. The
Managing Editor of the Journal of Design History, she is also the author of Design
at Home: Domestic Advice Literature in the UK and the US since 1945 (2014), editor
of Writing Design (2012) and Iconic Designs: 50 Stories about 50 Things (2014),
and co-editor of The Design History Reader (2010) and Made in Italy: Rethinking
a Century of Design (2014).
Kjetil Fallan is Professor of Design History at the University of Oslo. He is
the author of Design History: Understanding Theory and Method (2010), editor of
Scandinavian Design: Alternative Histories (2012) and co-editor of Made in Italy:
Rethinking a Century of Italian Design (2014). Professor Fallan is also an editor of
the Journal of Design History.
This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
CH APTER
1
Designs on/in Africa
dipti bhagat
Always use the word ‘Africa’ or ‘Darkness’ or ‘Safari’ in your title. Subtitles may
include the words ‘Zanzibar’, ‘Masai’, ‘Zulu’, ‘Zambezi’, ‘Congo’, ‘Nile’, ‘Big’, ‘Sky’,
‘Shadow’, ‘Drum’, ‘Sun’ or ‘Bygone’. Also useful are words such as ‘Guerrillas’,
‘Timeless’, ‘Primordial’ and ‘Tribal’. . . Never have a picture of a well-adjusted
African on the cover of your book . . . (Wainaina 2005)
Kenyan writer Binyavanga Wainaina, writing from Norwich, England, in
2003–2004, penned a quick fire email to the editor of Granta magazine,
responding to the ‘Africa’ issue. ‘Populated by every literary bogeyman that
any African has ever known, a sort of “Greatest Hits of Hearts of Fuckedness”’,
the Granta Africa issue stirred Wainaina’s ire. For him the Granta issue offered
‘nothing new, no insight, but lots of “reportage” . . . as if Africa and Africans
were not part of the conversation, were not indeed living in England across
the road from the Granta office. No, we were “over there”, where brave people
in khaki could come and bear witness’ (Wainaina 2010). His email, a searing
satire, was published by Granta in 2005. He goes on: ‘In your text, treat Africa
as if it were one country. It is hot and dusty . . . Or it is hot and steamy . . .
Don’t get bogged down with precise descriptions. Africa is big: fifty-four countries, 900 million people who are too busy starving and dying and warring
and emigrating to read your book . . . so keep your descriptions romantic and
evocative and unparticular’ (Wainaina 2005). Fuck Afrika I an inkjet illustration
(Fig. 1.1), by South African graphic designer Garth Walker (2008), pictures a
similar parody: a crisp, ink outline of a compact 35mm camera with a brand
name ‘AFRIKA’ in the top right, a comic book graphic star to indicate the flash
Notes for this section begin on page 38.
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24
dipti bhagat
Fig. 1.1 Fuck Afrika I, Garth Walker 2008, inkjet print, reproduced here by kind
permission of Garth Walker. Garth Walker’s commercial work can be seen at www.
misterwalker.net/ and his renowned experimental graphics publication ‘I-jusi’ at
www.ijusi.com/.
and an inset diagram to reveal the icons describing the camera modes out of
sight on the back of the camera. The icons in the inset for Walker’s ‘AFRIKA’
camera reiterate the stereotypical images of Africa that Wainaina lists: a full sun,
an outline of the continent, a gun, a skull and cross bones, a dagger, syringe and
needles, a dead body.1
The title of this chapter does include ‘Africa’; indeed it shall endure
throughout. Why? Not to treat ‘Africa as if it were one country’, but because
the ‘category’, or the ‘sign’ of Africa, as Wainaina and Walker drive home, persists.
It looms large. As an imaginative object, the continent is, as James Ferguson
puts it, more than the sum of its localities (Ferguson 2006: 4). In popular
discourse and media representations, as a name, an idea and an image and also
as a subject for scholarly study, ‘Africa’ remains fraught, at times burdened with
alterity. It is this very sign of ‘Africa’ that intrigues; its predicament appears to
be a persistent consigning of Africa to further taxonomies: of hopelessness, of
urgency, of inconvenience, of silence, of perseverance. In the neo-liberal frame
of the universal ‘global’, Africa is un-modern, an anomaly, ‘globalization’s antithesis’ (Bjørnsen 2008). The recent methodological shift in the humanities and
social sciences to a ‘global perspective’ has meant that historians of the West
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Designs on/in Africa
25
have made impressive efforts to directly engage with Africa’s once ignored, now
urgently implicit connections, with and across the Euroverse (Berg 2007; Desan,
Hunt and Nelson 2013; Colley 2013). For design history, entangled by its EuroAmerican and ethnocentric historiography, the global – and Africa within that
global – is an important project of inclusion and diverse representation (Teasley,
Riello and Adamson 2011; Margolin 2005).
So, what is this place in the world that Africa occupies? How is the category
of Africa understood as one through which a world is structured (Mudimbe
1988; Ferguson 2006; Mbembe and Nuttal 2004)? What might the relationships
be between the imagined/constructed and the real – in writing and in life? For
categories, arbitrary as they are, are historically constructed, impose rules and
can structure how people live.2 And how might design histories engage with
work which has sought to unpick predominant images of ‘Africa’? Distinctive
to the field amongst other forms of history is its multi-dimensional subject
matter: design. The multi-dimensionality of design is particularly illuminating
if it is understood as object, process and intention, animated by tensions and
ambiguities and by its histories as focused on exploring the ‘translations,
transcriptions, transactions, transpositions and transformations that constitute
the relationships among things, people and ideas’ (Fallan 2010: vii). These ways
of thinking about the empirical work of design history suggest quite well how
Africa might be written as a part of the world.
This essay is exploratory; magpie-like, I have sought what might be
interesting or useful or instructive for design histories of Africa. I consider the
‘global’ in history’s current focus; some historians, Africa scholars especially, are
sceptical of the flattening impetus of recent discourses of globalization, and
argue in favour of retaining a focus on Africa precisely because the category of
Africa is constituted through a series of practices that come under historians’
scrutiny. Through some examples of things, people and ideas in Africa, this
chapter tries to write against the grain of what Africa is not.
Africa and the Limitations of Global History
Writing in what Geoff Eley calls the ‘din’ of ‘globalization talk’ (Eley 2007:
161–162), African historian Frederick Cooper questions globalization as a
concept and analytical tool (Cooper 2001). He acknowledges the validity of an
underlying ‘quest for understanding the interconnectedness of different parts
of the world’ (Cooper 2001: 189–190), yet remains (see also Cooper 2013)
dissatisfied with the word ‘global’, as too singular, boundless in its claims to
universality and unfeasibly planetary in scale; and with globalization as a presentist obsession with processual teleology that seeks to explain ‘the progressive
integration of different parts of the world into a singular whole’ (Cooper 2001:
211). Here, Cooper detects the traces of modernization theory of the 1950s
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26
dipti bhagat
and 1960s; yet its premise that postcolonial nations progress from traditional
to modern, rural to urban, subsistence to industrial economies was discredited for its (first the West then the rest) ethnocentric tendency to propose a
broad, large-scale process, seemingly ‘self-propelled’ and thus occluding historical detail and precise questions about people’s agency (Thomas 2011: 729–731;
Cooper 2005: 113–117; 2001).
Cooper warns Africa scholars especially of a concept that emphasizes ‘change
over time but remains ahistorical, and which seems to be about space, but which
ends up glossing over the mechanisms and limitations of spatial relationships’
(Cooper 2001: 190). Rather, he argues for ‘historical depth’, ‘precision’ and
particular alertness to the ‘time-depth of cross-territorial processes, for the very
notion of “Africa” has itself been shaped for centuries by linkages within the
continent and across oceans and deserts – by the Atlantic slave trade, by the
movement of pilgrims, religious networks, and ideas associated with Islam, by
cultural and economic connections across the Indian Ocean’ (Cooper 2001:
190). While he accepts that histories written as though contained in solely
national or continental structures may be limited, he balks at the language
of globalization that suggests the only container is planetary. David A. Bell
also queries the effectiveness of placing past events in such ‘vast contexts’ (Bell
2013). Indeed, what happens to the analyses of power – and its limitations – in
the flatness and abstraction of planetary scale, when the structure of Empire (for
example, or ‘nation’) is replaced with universal ‘global flows’? What happens to
national histories on which global histories rely? For the ‘global’ must depend
on an inter-national or even local context to be made real or illustrative.
Words and definitions seem to matter. For James Ferguson, ‘The global, as
seen from Africa, is not a seamless, shiny, round, and all-encompassing totality
(as the word seems to imply). Nor is it a higher level of planetary unity, interconnection, and communication’. Indeed, for Ferguson, writing about Africa’s
place in the current neo-liberal, world order, Africa throws into sharp focus the
inadequacy of the concept-word, and emphasizes rather the asymmetry and
inconsistency of globalization:
Rather, the ‘global’ we see in recent studies of Africa has sharp, jagged edges; . . .
It is a global not of planetary communion, but of disconnection, segmentation,
and segregation – not a seamless world without borders, but a patchwork of
discontinuous and hierarchically ranked spaces, whose edges are carefully delimited,
guarded, and enforced. (Ferguson 2006: 48–49)
Nevertheless, the ‘global turn’ in history – perhaps the striving for a
‘global approach’ or ‘global history’ collectively – has generated a huge range
of studies, often opening up valuable new perspectives. Much work has been
done to emphasize globalization as a historical phenomenon (Moyn and
Sartori 2013; Desan, Hunt and Nelson 2013; Eley 2007), frame its chronologies
(Hopkins 2006; 2002) and locate the historical roots of the concept (for a brief
review, see Subrahmanyam 2007: 332). Historians and design historians have
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Designs on/in Africa
27
variously deployed the ‘global’ as a meta-analytical category (e.g. to emphasize
interconnectedness; Adamson, Riello and Teasley 2011), as a substantive scale
of historical process, for example to focus on modes of circulation of goods,
or imperial transformations (Bayly 2004), or, more innovatively, to consider
the intellectual history of the conception of the ‘global’ as used by people in
the time and place historians study (Moyn and Sartori 2013; Colley 2013).
Some avoid this highly contested term – the ‘global’ – because of its need for
definition and attendant perils (see the essays in Desan, Hunt and Nelson 2013):
global histories and design histories tend, like their subjects, towards complexity
and contradiction. Much ‘global’ history scholarship involving detailed,
in-depth research seldom offers a seamless picture of ‘planetary communion’
(Ferguson 2006: 48–49); indeed, in this work, the ‘global’ is perhaps less scalar,
more a way to connect empirical detail and larger processes or structures across
two or more places or regions. In which case, can the study of flows, circuits,
connections and power dynamics between two or more locations contribute
to our shared grasp of ‘globality’ (a condition so complex yet so singular and
vast in its inscription that it is doubtful if it should be applied at all)? Are
these approaches best described as ‘interconnected history’, and thus is there a
more ‘differentiated vocabulary’ to enhance thinking about specific, complex
connections and confines in writing design history, and African design histories
in particular (Cooper 2013: 284; 2001: 213)?
Towards Histories of African Design
For scholarship on Africa, these emphases on connections and confines have
the potential to unravel dominant and enduring imaginings of Africa as being
apart from the world, residual, a poor reflection of something else, to highlight
instead the entanglements within and ‘embeddedness in multiple elsewheres of
which the continent actually speaks’ (Mbembe and Nutall 2004: 348). ‘Multiple
elsewheres’ are important: for current visions of the ‘global’ tend to focus on the
expansion of European ‘modernity’, which is also temporally limited and fixes
Africa’s inter-continental connections and diaspora in the Western hemisphere/
Atlantic Eurosphere. Lynn M. Thomas explains how Africa has been key to
defining an image of the ‘modern’: as its antithesis, as a signifier of modern ills,
as a sign of modern primitivism, as a site to test modernization theories, while
modernity has reified the divide between precolonial, colonial and postcolonial
histories (Thomas 2011: 727–733).3 The history of Africa’s long-distance
connections is older, and differently sited, than its history of connections with
Europe. Studies in historical archaeology have shown in nuanced detail how
shifting patterns of coastal Swahili (East African) cosmopolitan culture between
the tenth and sixteenth centuries grew out of alliances between local elites and
foreign merchants (men, both) who negotiated trade in commodities from the
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28
dipti bhagat
Fig. 1.2 Stoneware bowl with a thick green celadon glaze inside and out except for
its unglazed centre and base (height – 7.6 cm, diameter – 18 cm); dated circa 1400–
1500, Ming Dynasty, made in Longquan, China, found in Malindi, Kenyan coast.
Malindi was a key entrepôt for Afrasian trade between China, Arabia and Africa, and
Chinese celadons such as this one here were widely used as tableware in this part of
Africa. © The Trustees of the British Museum. All rights reserved. Reproduced under
a Creative Commons BY-NC-SA 4.0 licence.
southeast African interior beyond the coast (including iron, ivory, gold, timber,
skins, slaves and tortoise shell) in exchange, in part, for Islamic, Chinese and
later southeast Asian ceramics, key luxury imports of the Islamic Oceanic trade.
Evidence of diverse consumption by elite men, women and children in Swahili
societies of these imported ceramics – as tableware in public festivals, for display
in intimate, honorific or ritual contexts or worn as personal ornamentations,
including re-use – show the socio-cultural status of these ceramics in urban
Swahili culture (see Fig. 1.2 for a fine example of Ming Dynasty Lonquan Ware
discovered in Malindi, Kenya). Alongside this, the limited evidence of these
objects, either in agricultural coastal settlements or the continental interior that
supplied raw materials for this coastal trade, suggests that urban Swahili elites
carefully guarded and delimited the distribution of such luxury products (Zhao
2013; 2012). Swahili mercantile power was clearly large scale in its connections
across the Indian Ocean – or to describe this connection in its own terms, the
‘Afrasian Sea’ (Pearson 1983)4 – and evolved over a long time, but it was also
complex and contingent upon its particular geography and maritime climate,
and the expansion of the Islamic world.
This example of Afrasian Sea trade in ceramics is a study of historical
archaeology and is thus perhaps a little provocative for a design history that classically considered its subject to be ‘modern’ and ‘industrial’, serially produced
(Pevsner 1936; also Teasley, Riello and Adamson 2011: 6; Lees-Maffei and Houze
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Designs on/in Africa
29
2010; Margolin 2005), and thus European and ethnocentric. That ‘design’ was,
and still is at times, deployed as a signifier of Euro-industrialized economies
suggests that particular forms of power might have become lodged in the very
definition of design: objects from Africa not described strictly as design by
industry have all too often been labelled variously as curiosities, ethnography
(Shelton 2000) or art. How can we study design in ‘precolonial’, ‘colonial’ and
‘postcolonial’ Africa when confronted with the fact that this use of design
emerged in part from the history of what we are trying to examine – that is,
the history of the so-called ‘first’ industrial revolution which has been shown to
be wedded to Europe’s colonial expansion? A careful re-reading of postcolonial
scholarship will remind us of a ‘deep suspicion of metanarratives that enfold
global history into the history of the modern west’ (Moyn and Sartori 2013: 18).
If Europe can no longer be studied in isolation (a key imperative of the ‘global’
turn in history), as the central place from which would materialize the stimulus
for action in the rest of the world, then what do we do with the European
and ethnocentric uses of design? Perhaps a way beyond this apparent impasse is
less about re-defining design, more about engaging with the writing of design
histories beyond this time limited, industrial Euroverse. Vilem Fusser’s essay on
the etymology of ‘design’ (1995: 50–53) offers a playful, even ironic reflection;
his essay is designed ‘to bring to light the crafty and insidious aspects of the word
‘design’ (53):
As a noun, it can mean, a ‘purpose’, ‘plan’, ‘intention’, ‘goal’, ‘malicious intent’,
‘plot’, ‘form’, or ‘fundamental structure’. . . . As a verb, ‘to design’ means, among
other things, ‘to concoct something’, ‘to feign or simulate’, ‘to draft’, ‘to sketch’, ‘to
shape’, or ‘to proceed strategically’. (Fusser 1995: 50)
Fusser is artful, cunning; and he concludes that ‘The word “design” has won
its current central place in common discourse because we (seemingly correctly)
are beginning to lose faith in art and technology as the source of values, and
because we are beginning to look behind the word and concept of design’ (52).
These thoughts have strongly influenced theorists such as Ben Highmore, who
look to a universe of objects that design histories might examine (Highmore
2009). We might also take this as a mandate for deeper, longer histories of
people, ideas, objects, intentions and processes, and their thoroughly entangled
relationships; then we can engage with the worldliness of African life. Design
history does not have to stand at the edge of Africa – which ‘we cannot yet
determine’, or which has ‘not yet become’ – and perceive it as an ‘epistemological abyss’ (Mbembe and Nuttall 2004: 349). In any case, historical archaeology
(in which Africanists are engaged in similar efforts to break the discipline out
of Eurocentric definitions of an archaeology of ‘modernity’ and of ‘colonial
encounters’, Schmidt 2006: 3–6), with its concern for objects as historical documents, is well aligned with design history’s place in a wider cultural history
(see Fallan 2010).
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dipti bhagat
Writing Africa’s place into the world and its historical linkages with
European expansion entails a challenge: how to counter images of Africa as
‘un-modern’ and detail time-depth, precise histories of dynamic – even
if unequal – societies? An example comes in Jeremy Prestholdt’s study of
ordinary East Africans’ consumption, during the mid-nineteenth century, of
commodities like textiles, which influenced long-distance trade relationships –
uneven/ asymmetrical ones – across both Atlantic and Indian oceans. Prestholdt
describes the chain of links from foreign agents and local buyers in Zanzibar and
the East African coast, to caravans of porters and their European leaders trading
commodities with consumers and gifting them to local political elites in whose
territories they traded or journeyed. Zanzibar’s middlemen handled goods from
ports in America, Europe and Asia, where products popular in East Africa were
made, to trade for African copal, ivory and cloves. The East Africans’ demand
for textiles and in particular a diverse and changeable taste in textiles was shown
to affect textile production, first in Salem, Massachusetts, and then in Bombay,
India. Prestholdt shows how consumers’ ‘fashions’ (described as such, and as
‘like England’ by a contemporary European trader) often rendered undesirable
the cloth imported from America and India – local taste determined the weight
of cloth or colour and even proportions and placement of stripes. Zanzibar
artisans became deft at customizing cloth surpluses to meet the requirements of
exacting customers, and inevitably, to add value. In the context of this complex
and long-distance, if picky, market, Salem and Bombay both industrialized their
cloth production, the latter in the 1850s and with investment from Indian, not
British, capital (Prestholdt 2004). Not only were East African consumers not
‘un-modern’, their demand for particular textiles impacted on urban industry
further afield. In a period before Britain effected colonial control in Zanzibar,
these complex relationships reveal agency in multiple locations and reciprocity
across long-distance connectivity, even if all actors were not equal. While this
earlier work offers a limited discussion of how these textiles – of such significant
quantity – were used (there is a tantalizing reference to elders wearing up to
fifteen yards of cloth: 778), Prestholdt’s later work includes a study of how locals
in Zanzibar (still precolonial) took in and adapted imported Western commodities in ways that confounded Westerners yet exemplified local ‘domestication’,
or naturalization of foreign goods (Prestholdt 2008).
National Design Histories of/in Africa
This wider, deeper African historiography is instructive, vital even, for the
history of the continent and cannot be reduced to that of European arrival
and colonial encounter. The pre-, colonial, and post- periodization forces false
dichotomies and, indeed, works to privilege ‘colonial’, i.e. ‘modern’ history,
which inevitably relies on the confines of the European documentary record
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Designs on/in Africa
31
(see Reid 2011). In the immediate glow of independence, historians of Africa,
keen to contribute to nation-building work across the continent, often focused
on somewhat singular, precolonial pasts, projecting nationalism backward to
locate an authentic African history. Richard Reid has suggested that some of
this early nationalist historiography may have been ‘naïve’ (motivated by having
been denied a history) or attended by ‘political cynicism’ (to wrest and secure
power) (Reid 2011: 136; see also Ranger 2004).Yet, states and people that have
existed prior to colonization cannot be overlooked. Reid (2011: 155) makes
an urgent claim for the importance of deep, complex and plural precolonial
African histories, as vital to illuminate present-day matters in the ‘body politic’
and social fabric of contemporary African nations.
Zimbabwe provides a salient example here. In the 1980s, the architectural
ruins of precolonial Great Zimbabwe (dated from the eleventh to the fifteenth
century) were valorized as the symbol of Zimbabwean independence. In particular, eight extant carved soapstone birds became vital to the new nation:
about 40 cm in size, combining human and avian features and surmounted
on metre-long pillars, these carvings had been excavated at the turn of the
twentieth century, and while their original arrangement is unknown, these
birds are understood to have once mediated royal power. From 1980 the image
of the ‘Zimbabwe Bird’ (No. 1 as numbered by Matenga 1998) was widely
used, appearing on the national flag, currency (see Fig. 1.3), airline livery and
much more, including everyday popular goods like t-shirts, ties and tie pins,
domestic clocks, etc. to celebrate a new nation. Named after the ruins of this
urban kingdom and symbolized widely by the icon of the bird, Zimbabwe
claimed an ancient African lineage that had been refuted until 1980: European
travellers, British colonists and Rhodesian minority rule had worked to maintain their ideological claims on the land through a steady assertion that the
ingenuity and splendour of the ruins could only imply foreign workmanship.
Beyond this nationalist claim on Great Zimbabwe, Innocent Pikirayi’s comprehensive archaeology of Zimbabwe Culture (2001) unhitched this agenda
to combat colonial myths, and offered rather a complex history of ethnically
diverse autochthonous culture of the whole plateau (including its long-distance
trade in gold for Indian and Persian glass beads and Chinese ceramics via the
Swahili coastal traders mentioned above). However, on a still narrower path
of ‘patriotic history’, the Zimbabwean government initiated in 2003 a costly
‘national heritage’ ceremony to join two parts of a long separated soapstone
bird (one fragment was returned from Germany). For many Zimbabweans this
‘[p]atriotic history elevates Great Zimbabwe, but also . . . empties it and devalues it’ to ‘just a piece of stone’ (see Ranger 2004: 231–232). Locals who live
around (for them a sacred) Great Zimbabwe are as excluded as they were by
Rhodesian conservationists; those who sold hand-crafted curios are attacked
for gratifying white tourists and thus impoverished; a costly ceremony insults
a ravaged nation; and ruling party claims on Zimbabwean material culture are
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32
dipti bhagat
Fig. 1.3 Proof coinage of Zimbabwe, 1980 and Zimbabwean One Hundred Trillion
Dollars note, 2008. Proof coinage was issued in 1980 to celebrate Zimbabwean
independence with the symbol of the ‘Zimbabwe Bird’ named thus at independence.
The largest coin is for one Zimbabwe dollar. The one hundred trillion dollars note
includes a small foil figure of the Zimbabwe Bird in gold on the bottom right. Issued
in 2008, this note exemplifies a period of hyperinflation; Zimbabwean currency was
abandoned in 2009. Author’s own photograph.
ethnically exclusive. The opportunity for precolonial Zimbabwean material
culture to provide a sustainable, plural African identity today seems utterly lost
to an increasingly troubled society and a morbid ‘body politic’ (Reid 2011:
155), which remains mired in anti-colonial rhetoric.
Certainly, the impact of less than a century of active colonization is still
highly charged. ‘Africa’, as V.Y. Mudimbe has shown, as an invention, a category,
was framed in large part through the history of slavery and colonization
(Mudimbe 1988). Since then African historiography has developed a complex
trajectory (for a summary, see Cooper 1994; Reid 2011); in particular, Edward
Said’s Orientalism ([1978] 2003) influenced a sharp focus on the apparatus
that collected, curated and classified knowledge of Africa. It is in this context
that design histories have productively engaged with Africa, examining
for instance an exhibitionary complex (Bennett 1988; 1995) of institutions,
sites, images, people and objects of design and material culture that were
shaped into world-wide displays of all varieties (human spectacles, pageants,
‘International’, ‘Empire’, ‘World’s Fair’) and museum collections (cabinets of
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Designs on/in Africa
33
curiosities included) from the nineteenth to the mid-twentieth century. This
chronology parallels a ‘new’ colonialism in which Europe’s encounter with
Africa solidified through colonization. It was a new colonialism which was part
of an increasingly bourgeois Europe – property owning, industrially-minded,
entrepreneurial, market driven (Hobsbawm 1987) – that both underpinned
colonial accumulations and was not unchallenged by the same colonies. The
historiography unpacking imperial displays has been significant for examining
the politics of representation: of Europe to itself, of ‘others’ to Europe, and
of ‘others’ to themselves, where a national or continental European ‘self ’
depended upon inscribing ‘otherness’ onto non-European objects, people and
societies (Greenhalgh 1988; Mitchell 1988; Coombes 1997; MacKenzie 1999).
In addition, these studies have been important for illuminating how intrinsic
colonies were to being British, French, Dutch, or German, for nation building
was co-constitutive with empire building.
After London’s Great Exhibition of the Industry of All Nations of 1851,
regular mass spectacles took place across the British Empire in various colonies
and colonial nations (e.g. Johannesburg, 1936). Extending over vast acreages,
lasting for six months to a year, these events boasted the privileged/protected
extension of national trade (Colonial and Indian Exhibition, 1886), set up
competition in trade between nation-empires (Franco-British Exhibition,
1908) or were founded on economic boosterism (British Empire Exhibition,
1924–1925), and drew in millions of national and colonial visitors to these
edifying, entertaining fantasies of empire as peaceable, socially ordered, grand –
an extension of nation. Such displays reified the ability of Britain – and other
imperial nations – to conquer and rule. As Mitchell argued, ‘Exhibitions,
museums and other spectacles were not just reflections of this certainty,
however, but the means of its production, by their technique of rendering
history, progress, culture and empire in “objective” form’ (Mitchell 1988: 7). In
this ‘system of representation’, which ‘set up the world as a picture’ (Mitchell
1988: 6), African objects were presented as commodities, often raw materials
for British industry (Woodham 1989), privileging British science, technology
and industrialization as demonstrating progress and modernity. This strategy of
display came to include, from 1886 in Britain, the display of colonial subjects,
often contained within the exhibition grounds, dressed in ‘authentic’ attire to
portray a racialized, ‘primitive’, timeless past, as a living sign of themselves, often
set against European whiteness as a sign of civilization and modernity (see also
Qureshi 2011).
While empires – and their exhibitions – operated within a particular
spatial system crossing boundaries, they also imposed territorial borders or
trading monopolies, sometimes damaging older connections, such as that across
the Indian Ocean described above. Empires and their exhibitions were not
quite so coherent or universalizing as to be described as ‘global’, nor were
they unequivocal, and to circumvent the dangers of generalizing European
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dipti bhagat
national aspirations and universalizing ‘coloniality’ and colonial contexts, the
rigidity of such dichotomies as ‘self ’ and ‘other’ has been mitigated by suppler
‘bricolage’ (Cooper 1994: 1528) of the complex or ambiguous practices of
colonizer and colonized. Timothy Mitchell’s work on displays of Egypt in the
nineteenth-century exhibitions reveals how Egyptian elites responded to images
of themselves as ‘other’, criticizing some aspects of stereotyping, while allowing
that it also played a role in validating new representations of themselves and
Egypt. In becoming increasingly familiar with European images of Egypt, local
ruling classes strategically aligned themselves with colonizers, and removed or
altered from their self-presentations that which might be considered ‘other’
(Mitchell 1988).
South African displays in the colonial metropolis, and within its own
territories, reveal a fragmented colonizer and multiple images and actions of
colonized Africans.Wedded to local concerns about uniting Afrikaans and English
speakers and its fledgling dominion nationhood, exhibition commissioners
curated a distinctly national display for the 1924 Empire Exhibition in
Wembley, London, and set out its colonial-vernacular, Cape Dutch pavilion as a
European-but-not-English, hybrid sign of white permanence in the landscape
of other African colonial displays. English-speaking commissioners equivocated
over sending African ‘primitive’ dancers to the exhibition as living exhibits in
the entertainment style of older, nineteenth-century spectacles. In the event,
the dancers were omitted in favour of promoting a picture of successful white
South African industry, and images of Africans as potential labour were carefully
downplayed while ethnographic images of Africans were utilized to claim
South Africa’s own anthropological expertise (bhagat 2011). In yet another
arena South Africa’s white exhibition commissioners voiced concern about the
prejudice and lack of hospitality experienced by Africans who had travelled to
London to visit the event.
More clarity is required on what Africans thought of the structures of
colonial identity being inscribed on them (inevitably Africa is contained within
an imperial archive, even if it is read critically). In part, this can be seen in
the example of the Johannesburg Empire Exhibition, where all established
tropes of ‘othering’ African people, as living exhibits or as illustrative image,
were employed by exhibition organizers – as labouring accessories to industrial
displays, as spectacular dancers, as exotic ‘near extinct races’ – alongside new
roles as theatre performers and as jazz musicians, playing African-American
ragtime, swing and jazz for the evening events that formed part of the
exhibition’s entertainment line-up (bhagat 2003; Coe 2001). More revealingly,
Africans were present as visitors and as journalists to the exhibition. African
journalists differed in their views about it: some aligned themselves with images
of African labour as urban and part of Johannesburg’s dramatic capitalist success,
while communist journalists strongly criticized the exhibition’s imperialist
venture, condemning false representations of genuinely poor township living
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Designs on/in Africa
35
Fig. 1.4 South African press image showing a white South African artist working in
the so-called ‘Bushmen’ exhibit at the 1936 Empire Exhibition, held in Johannesburg,
South Africa. Sunday Express, 15 November 1936. A group of Khoisan people were
brought to the Empire Exhibition by a game hunter, Donald Bain, to be displayed as
examples of a ‘dying race’.
conditions and decrying the exploitative horror of the display of the ‘near
extinct’ Khoisan (see Fig. 1.4), even while maintaining the image of Khoisan
primitiveness, claiming it as a sign of South Africa’s (as the extension of empire)
failure to civilize and distribute the fruits of its wealth (Coe 2001). While
empire exhibitions presumed universalizing stories, the very form of such
exhibitions, like the empires themselves, contained visions of empire that were
created by multiple and fragmented metropolitan, as well as diverse colonial,
discourses. Dissonant, local voices disrupted an empire-wide apparatus, shot
through with conflict as between journalists of differing political allegiances
or long-distance connections, for example, between African jazz musicians
and African Americans (see Coplan 1985). African jazz performers in 1936
reinforced African exhibition visitors’ self-image as contemporary urbanites
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36
dipti bhagat
and as connected to transatlantic racial politics, possibly more than they felt
connected to the Khoisan as fellow countrymen.
An ‘African Atlantic’ (John Thornton, cited in Diouf and Prais 2013:
206) operated variously through its long history, for example, in the early
twentieth century when African and African American intellectuals connected
through political and intellectual alliances in European and North American
metropoles at various Pan-African conferences (1900, 1919, 1945; see
Diouf and Prais 2013). The implications of these long-distance linkages are
important for writing Africa through its multiple elsewheres, and as much
for Africa’s postcolonial nation states as for colonial Africa. The past is not a
foreign country in Africa: the Atlantic in the late twentieth and early twentyfirst century was – and still is – traversed by container ships carrying huge
bales of second-hand clothing from the West to markets across Africa. Press
coverage of this world-wide trade in second-hand clothing paints quite the
usual image of Africa – as wanting, lacking, put-upon by the West: ‘All over
Africa, people are wearing what Americans once wore and no longer want.
Visit the continent and you’ll find faded remnants of second-hand clothing in
the strangest of places. . . . The white bathrobe on a Liberian rebel boy with
his wig and automatic rifle. And the muddy orange sweatshirt on the skeleton
of a small child . . .’ (Packer 2002: 1). In much the same way as Prestholdt
(2008) describes the nineteenth-century Westerner as being confounded
when confronted by Zanzibaris dressed in Western fashions, Packer’s image
of Africans in Western dress reiterates colonial taxonomies of ‘hybrid’ African
cultures as a sign of degeneration and semi-civilization; it is an image that
Walker’s AFRIKA camera might have shot.
In contrast to this, Karen Tranberg Hansen’s study suggests instead a
complicated industry. The sale of used clothing has a long history in Atlantic
trade connecting London and the West African coast, since the eighteenth
century. Hansen focuses on the 1990s and moves across the trade between north
America, northern Europe and finally Zambia where she has intricately traced
the varied effects of salaula (the Chibemba word for second-hand clothing,
meaning ‘to select from a pile in the manner of rummaging’, Hansen 2004: 7; see
also 2000) against numerous media claims that cohere around a motif of global
trade destroying local industries. Hansen outlines more subtle combinations
of a failing economy, cheap textile imports and subsequent Chinese owned
re-direction of textile manufacturing to export cloth as reasons for the death of
local industry. Beyond this, a complex economy of trade, skilled artisanry and
discerning consumer choice developed around salaula (see Fig. 1.5), including
the transport of bales of clothing, the construction of market stalls and tailoring
to repair, alter, and transform salaula garments according to consumer taste.
Consumers have come to view salaula as providing value for money, everyday
fashion and ‘incomparable’ or ‘not common’ styles (Hansen 2004: 9). Hansen
offers a salient comment about local and press coverage of this trade: ‘The
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Designs on/in Africa
37
Fig. 1.5 The used clothing market in Lusaka, Zambia, © Cordelia Persen,
21 February 2009. This image shows not only clothing stalls, but also Zambian’s
discerning choice and display of dress – from army surplus worn with trainers by
the man on the left, the polo shirt worn with a wax print wrap by the woman stall
holder in the middle of the picture, the bystander in a long leather coat on the right
beside the car, to the man in orange tunic, khaki trousers and gum boots behind the
car. Available at: https://flic.kr/p/694Fw5. This work is licensed under the Creative
Commons Attribution-NoDerivs 2.0 Generic License (http://creativecommons.org/
licenses/by-nd/2.0/).
single most striking point about accounts of the negative effects of the secondhand clothing trade appearing in local and Western news media is their lack of
curiosity about the clothes themselves and how consumers deal with them. In
effect, in these accounts the clothes themselves are entirely incidental’ (Hansen
2004: 9). A close look at what is actually happening in Africa reveals people,
ideas, objects, intentions enmeshed in intricate relationships: design matters.
Conclusions
My aim here is to understand the worldliness of Africa. I have been less concerned with ‘globalizing’ Africa, or design history, and more interested in paying
attention to supple conceptions of local, national, regional and long-distance
connections of the continent that became Africa. This is not to privilege any
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dipti bhagat
state over other forms of human connection, but also not to over-emphasize
vast, abstract conceptions of the ‘global’ over smaller, more contingent agencies
of human connections. By highlighting the complexity of African engagement
with other places in the world – an interaction which is often asymmetrical –
involving objects and people, ideas, processes and intentions, I hope to show
how design histories in / of Africa might throw off the shackles of its categories
of Eurocentric exclusion and embrace an inter-disciplinary approach to scholarship. As Achille Mbembe and Sarah Nuttall explain, ‘compartmentalization of
knowledge undergirds the obsession with Africa’s uniqueness, and it feeds the
overwhelming neglect of how the meanings of Africanness are made’ (Mbembe
and Nuttall 2004: 350). By interrogating the pre-, post- and colonial material and design culture of Africa, and remaining attentive to the intricacies of
periodization and often troubled national historiographies, design history can
enhance the work of writing an ‘Africa’ different from ‘its Eurocentric pseudosynonym, by turns taxonomic, by turns homogenizing’ (Tageldin 2014: 320),
and may indeed work to write of the continent as a plural unity, as a part of
the world.
Notes
I would like to thank Lorna Rosbottom and Dr Sabrina Rahman for their advice to me while
preparing this chapter, and the editors of this volume for inviting me to contribute this chapter
and thereafter for their patient, precise editing.
1. ‘Fuck Afrika I’ by Garth Walker was made in response to an invitation by David Krut
Projects, South Africa, for Drawing Show Designers and Illustrators, 2008, an exhibition of twelve
contemporary graphic designers and illustrators, 10 September–11 October, 2008 (see http://
davidkrutprojects.com/artworks/fuck-afrika-i-by-garth-walker-at-orange-juice-by-drawingshow-designers-and-illustrators). I would like to thank Garth Walker for generously supplying an
image of his work for this chapter.
2. Magnus Bjørnsen’s report for the Norwegian Council for Africa explains ‘Not only is
the image of Africa as a continent only characterized by shortcomings and lacks deeply hurtful
to many Africans. It is also an obstacle to the continent’s economic development. According
to the report Private Capital Flows to Africa: Perception and Reality, Africa’s widespread negative
image among investors had two consequences: Firstly, that the continent lost out on investments
and secondly, that the funds which were invested in Africa, had a tendency to end up in shortterm, high-risk ventures with developmental impacts substantially smaller than from “normal”
investments’ (Bjørnsen 2008).
3. Lynn M. Thomas develops a detailed discussion of the ways in which ‘modernity’ can be
addressed, not as a conceptual category to impose through analysis, but as a category to investigate
how historical actors understand their modernity; she recommends, then, an historicist approach
to investigating modernity (Thomas 2011: 734–740).
4. Research on ‘early modern’ African–Asian trade connections has recently sought to
illuminate the agency of Swahili middlemen along the East African coast trading in commodities –
the most significant being manufactured Gujarati cloth – confirming the Swahili as African,
tracing their reach into Africa beyond the coast, and examining the failures of Portuguese traders
to control this trade. (See Pearson 1998, who frames this large-scale trade as of the ‘Afrasian Sea
and its coasts’ (9), to assert a study of it in its own terms.)
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Designs on/in Africa
39
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Ferguson, J. 2006. Global Shadows: Africa in the Neoliberal World Order. Durham: Duke University
Press.
Fusser,V. 1995. ‘On the Word Design: an Etymological Essay’, Design Issues 11(3): 50–53.
Greenhalgh, P. 1988. Ephemeral Vistas: the Expositions Universelles, Great Exhibitions and World’s Fairs,
1851–1939. Manchester: Manchester University Press.
Hansen, K.T. 2000. Salaula: the World of Second Hand Clothing and Zambia. Chicago: University of
Chicago Press.
______. 2004. ‘Helping or hindering? Controversies around the International Second-Hand
Clothing Trade’, Anthropology Today 20(4): 3–9.
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40
dipti bhagat
Hobsbawm, E.J. 1987. The Age of Empire 1875–1914. London: Weidenfeld and Nicolson.
Highmore, B. (ed.). 2009. The Design Culture Reader. London: Routledge.
Hopkins, A.G. (ed.). 2002. Globalization in World History. London: Pimlico.
______ (ed.). 2006. Global History: Interactions between the Universal and the Local. Basingstoke:
Palgrave Macmillan.
Lees-Maffei, G. and R. Houze (eds). 2010. The Design History Reader. London: Berg.
Mackenzie, J.M. 1999. ‘“The Second City of the Empire”: Glasgow – Imperial Municipality’,
in F. Driver and D. Gilbert (eds), Imperial Cities: Landscape, Display and Identity. Manchester:
Manchester University Press, pp. 215–237.
Margolin, V. 2005. ‘A World History of Design and the History of the World’, Journal of Design
History 18(3): 235–243.
Matenga, E. 1998. The Soapstone Birds of Great Zimbabwe: Symbols of a Nation. Harare: African
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Prestholdt, J. 2004. ‘On the Global Repercussions of East African Consumerism’, American
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______. 2008. Domesticating the World: African Consumerism and the Genealogies of Globalization.
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Qureshi, S. 2011. Peoples on Parade: Exhibitions, Empire, and Anthropology in Nineteenth-Century
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Subrahmanyam, S. 2007. ‘Historicizing the Global, or Labouring for Invention?’, History Workshop
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Teasley, S., G. Riello and G. Adamson. 2011. ‘Introduction: towards Global Design History’, in
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Designs on/in Africa
41
Wainaina, B. 2005. ‘How to Write about Africa’, Granta 92. Retrieved 3 April 2014 from http://
www.granta.com/Archive/92/How-to-Write-about-Africa/Page-1
______. 2010.‘How to Write about Africa II: the Revenge’, Bidoun 21. Retrieved 3 April 2014 from
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enge-by-binyavanga-wainaina/
Woodham, J. 1989. ‘Images of Africa and Design at the British Empire Exhibitions between the
Wars’, Journal of Design History 2(1): 15–33.
Zhao, B. 2012. ‘Global Trade and Swahili Cosmopolitan Material Culture: Chinese-Style Ceramic
Shards from Sanje ya Kati and Songo Mnara (Kilwa,Tanzania)’, Journal of World History 23(1):
41–85.
______. 2013. ‘Luxury and Power: The Fascination with Chinese Ceramics in Medieval Swahili
Material Culture’, Orientations 44(3): 71–78. Retrieved 4 April 2014 from http://www.
academia.edu/6527064/LUXURY_AND_POWER_The_Fascination_with_Chinese_
Ceramics_in_Medieval_Swahili_Material_Culture
dipti bhagat is a Senior Lecturer in Design History and Theory at the Cass
School of Design, London Metropolitan University, UK. She is committed
to research in pedagogy, with a particular focus on equality and inclusive
practices, and is currently paying close attention to developing design histories
of / in Africa. Recent publications include chapters in Global Design History
(Routledge 2011) and Writing in the Disciplines (Palgrave Macmillan 2011).
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CH APTER
2
Does Southern African Design
History Exist?
Deirdre Pretorius
There are numerous southern African higher education institutions, both public
and private, which offer qualifications in a variety of design disciplines, including architecture, graphic, fashion, product, interior, ceramic, textile and jewellery design. The existence of these design qualifications indicates the need for
students to have an understanding of southern African design history. However,
no institutions in the region offer design history qualifications, few academics
in these institutions self identify as design historians, and academic journals
which overtly claim to contribute to African design history writing are scarce.
Given the absence of design history courses and historians in the region one
would be forgiven for asking the question, following Chipkin (2007): does
southern African design history exist? The short answer would be yes, but with
the qualifier that this history exists across a ‘dispersal of sites’ (Margolin 2002:
128) such as design, art history, visual studies, material culture, history, interdisciplinary studies, media studies, cultural studies and anthropology.
The aim of this chapter is to detect and outline a shape of southern African
design history by examining how academic institutions form the field. This
approach is informed by the design historiographical survey pioneered by Clive
Dilnot (1984a; 1984b) and Victor Margolin (2002: 127–170).The development
of design history in the USA and the UK is well researched and a number of
excellent surveys exist. In 1984 two essays by Dilnot appeared in the journal
Design Issues in which he reviewed the state of primarily British design history
by firstly mapping the field, followed by a discussion of the problems and possibilities of design history. This was followed in 1988 by Margolin’s survey of
Notes for this section begin on page 58.
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Does Southern African Design History Exist?
43
the development of design history in the USA from 1977 to 1987. In 2002
Margolin (2002: 127–187) extended his earlier essay and updated it to 2000.
More recently Kjetil Fallan (2010: 1–54) surveyed the development of
design history with an emphasis on the development of an ‘industrial design
history proper’ and Daniel Huppatz and Grace Lees-Maffei (2012) conducted
a multi-national survey on the state of design history in the UK, France, Italy,
Scandinavia, Spain, Turkey and Greece, the USA, Australia and East Asia. This
was followed by Huppatz’s (2014) more in-depth examination of developments
in Australian historiography and a review of the last quarter of a century of
scholarship on Australian design history.
These surveys demonstrate a slow broadening in design history’s initial
concern with only the ‘output of major industrialized, consumer-orientated
societies’ (Woodham 2005: 257) to an ‘expanded geography’ approach (Huppatz
2014: 2007). However, no similar surveys have been conducted on African design
history in general and southern African design history specifically. There are
many possible reasons for this; these include the vastness of the continent and its
complexity and diversity, its levels of economic and industrial development and
a preferred focus on African material culture as ‘craft’, ‘art’ or ‘ethnic artefacts’,
as opposed to design. For example, an ostensibly simple question such as ‘what
comprises southern Africa’ is not straightforward or easily answered.
The United Nations (UN) scheme of geographic regions defines southern
Africa as consisting of five countries (United Nations 2013), while the southern
African Development Community (SADC) views the region as comprised of
fifteen countries (Southern African Development Community; retrieved 22
August 2014 from http://www.sadc.int/member-states). For the purpose of
this chapter the UN scheme, consisting of Botswana, Lesotho, Namibia, South
Africa and Swaziland with the addition of Zimbabwe, is used. While the UN
insists that its scheme is purely ‘for statistical convenience’ (United Nations
2014) there are connections between these countries which justify their being
grouped together when it comes to detecting the design history of the region.
Using the SADC scheme would also broaden the scope of this chapter to an
unwieldy size.
The first connection is geographical proximity. Lesotho and Swaziland are
enclosed by South Africa whereas Namibia, Botswana and Zimbabwe border
South Africa to the north.This is an enormous region1 spanning over 3,066,858
km2, which is only slightly smaller than India (3,287,590 km2), the seventh
largest country in the world. It has a total population of nearly seventy-five
million people and a population density per square kilometre ranging from the
sparsely populated Namibia (2.54 people km2) to the more densely populated
Lesotho and Swaziland (both 68.1 people km2). The region is home to people
who identify with a range of ethnicities and many languages are spoken; South
Africa alone has eleven official languages. However, all the countries include
English as an official language and this is one of the many legacies of British
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44
Deirdre Pretorius
colonialism in the region. As independent postcolonial nation-states, they are
all relatively young, having gained complete independence only from the 1960s
onwards.
South Africa is by far the largest in size, population and total GDP and has
exerted a strong influence in the region. Namibia, for example, was directly
controlled by South Africa from 1919 to 1990. Under successive Apartheid
governments (1948–1994) South Africa came into conflict with many of its
neighbours who supported the liberation organization, the African National
Congress (ANC), but since 1994, when the ANC was voted into power,
relations have improved. Despite such conflict the countries have historically
collaborated with each other and continue to do so.
For instance, the Southern African Customs Union (SACU) created in
1910 consists of South Africa, Botswana, Namibia, Lesotho and Swaziland, and
with the exception of Botswana, all of these countries belong to the Common
Monetary Area (CMA) which means their currencies are linked to the South
African Rand (Krieger 2001: 787). People, goods, capital and ideas have always
moved across the borders of the region, whether freely or illegally. This is
evident in the earliest forms of material culture, such as rock art, which are
widely dispersed throughout the region. Shared histories and relationships
varying in terms of control, complicity, conflict and cooperation therefore bind
the countries together and any design history of the region should be cognisant
of these connections.
Huppatz and Lees-Maffei (2012: 311) offer a broad definition of design
history as ‘the study of designed artefacts, practices and behaviours, and the
discourses surrounding these, in order to understand the past, contextualize
the present and map possible trajectories for the future’. For them, ‘design
historians analyse [. . .] the material culture of everyday life and its production,
mediation and consumption – to create narratives about the human condition’.
The authors consider two differences which are important when asking what
design history is, the first of which is based on John A. Walker’s distinction
between ‘the history of design’ and ‘design history’ (Lees-Maffei and Huppatz
2012: 311).The history of design, they argue, is ‘a subject of study within design
history’ which begins with the separation of design and manufacture due to
industrialization which has resulted in design history being preoccupied with
‘the industrial era and . . . the output of Western industrialized nations at the
expense of an adequate analysis of non-Western regions’ (2012: 311).
This narrow view of design history has been criticized by a number of
authors including Turner (1995: 79), Pacey (1992) and Woodham (2005). For
example, Pacey (1992: 217) criticizes the view of design history as a modern
activity practised only by a professional elite as ‘misleadingly myopic’ and
argues for the activities of non-professional designers to be acknowledged as
design. This broadening of scope, he believes, will free design history from ‘a
trap which it surely did not intend to set for itself, that of seeming exclusively
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Does Southern African Design History Exist?
45
concerned with an activity associated with the industrialized, affluent West’
(Pacey 1992: 217). In a similar vein I would argue that southern African design
history cannot only be confined to industrially produced artefacts for mass
consumption, but must also include artefacts and practices that are in southern
Africa typically labelled as ‘art’ and ‘craft’, despite the many complexities around
definition, boundaries and chronology that such a perspective entails.
The second distinction made by Huppatz and Lees-Maffei (2012: 311)
concerns the offering of design history ‘as contextual studies for design students,
and design history as a discrete academic subject as taught in art history degrees
and as researched by design historians’. The following survey touches on both
these aspects, firstly by reviewing the provision of design qualifications in
southern Africa and then by providing an overview of scholarship on southern
African design history.
This overview of scholarship considers the output of postgraduate students
at South African universities – as this is the only country in the region which
offers visual studies and art history degrees at postgraduate level – and then refers
to a selected number of academic journals and conferences which contribute to
knowledge of southern African design history. In this way a southern African
design history can be detected and outlined.
Due to limitations of space the role of academic and popular books, research
centres, museums, libraries, archives, exhibitions, fairs, professional associations
and government policy on the shaping of the field cannot be considered.
Clearly, there is room for further work in this pressing area.
Design Qualifications in Southern Africa
The table shows the results of reviewing design qualifications offered in southern Africa.2 State and privately owned institutions awarding undergraduate
and postgraduate qualifications across eight design disciplines were considered, but not distance education institutions or those offering short courses. At
undergraduate level all six countries offer diplomas or degrees in architecture:
five of them in graphic and fashion design, four in product and textile design,
and three in interior design. South Africa is the only country in the southern
African region which offers ceramic and jewellery design diplomas and degrees
as standalone subjects of study.
Swaziland is the only country which does not offer any form of postgraduate qualification in the design disciplines. In Lesotho and Botswana the
Malaysian based Limkokwing University offers Honours degrees in Industrial
Design and Visual Communication Design. The Polytechnic of Namibia
and the National University of Science and Technology in Zimbabwe offer
Honours degrees in Architecture. At Chinhoyi University of Technology in
Zimbabwe students can graduate with an Honours Degree in Clothing and
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46
Deirdre Pretorius
Table 2.1 Design qualifications offered at southern African higher education
institutions
QUALIFICATIONS
OFFERED
Undergraduate:
Diploma, Degree
Architecture
Ceramic Design
Fashion Design
Graphic Design
Interior Design
Jewellery Design
Product Design
Textile Design
Postgraduate:
Honours, Master,
Doctoral
Architecture
Ceramic Design
Fashion Design
Graphic Design
Interior Design
Jewellery Design
Product Design
Textile Design
Botswana Lesotho Namibia South
Africa
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
Swaziland Zimbabwe
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
x
Fashion Design. In South Africa students can pursue Honours, Masters and
Doctoral degrees in all the listed design disciplines.
In line with many other regions of the world no standalone design history
programmes are found in any of the southern African institutions (Huppatz
and Lees-Maffei 2012). The majority of undergraduate design programmes in
South Africa include a first-year level course called generically ‘History of Art
and Design’ which in the second- and third-year levels becomes more discipline
specific, e.g. ‘History and Theory of Graphic Design’. However, this is a low
credit bearing subject with no opportunity for postgraduate study. In some
institutions, the ‘History of Art and Design’ subject offered to design students
has undergone changes; for example at the University of Johannesburg it was
renamed ‘Contextual Studies’ in the reconfigured Diploma programmes and
‘Design Studies’ in the newly introduced BA Design programme. This situation
aligns with what Lees-Maffei and Huppatz (2012:311) describe as design history
for the purpose of contextual study for design students as opposed to a separate
academic subject as taught in humanities settings such as art history programmes.
South Africa is the only country in southern Africa where students can
qualify with design, visual studies or art history degrees up to Doctoral level.
Therefore, in the southern African region most scholarly research which can be
described as design history has emanated from South Africa, particularly from
Architecture, Visual Arts and Art History departments. Along with institutions
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Does Southern African Design History Exist?
47
outside of Africa, Art History departments in South Africa have also seen a
move away from the term ‘Art History’ to a preference for the term Visual
Culture or Visual Studies with some universities opting to cover all bases with
the nomenclature Art History and Visual Culture, or History of Art and Visual
Studies.3 It appears as if Margolin’s (2002: 147) contention that ‘[w]hat may
ultimately open up once and for all the relations between different approaches
to the visual is the concept of visual culture’ has been adopted to some degree
in South Africa.
Postgraduate design history scholarship in southern Africa is principally
conducted in and about South Africa. A review of theses and dissertations
delivered in Masters and Doctoral programmes in South African Design and
Architecture,Visual Arts and Art History departments over the last twenty-five
years shows that studies which can be classified as design history revolve around
five clusters of interest. The first cluster relates to the role of colonial and
postcolonial representational practices and includes monuments and heritage,
museums and practices of display. The next revolves around architecture and
landscape and includes studies of architectural identity, architectural firms,
regional architecture and architectural ornament. Another cluster can be
categorized as graphic design and includes South African graphics for social
justice and human rights, protest and resistance, design language, advertising,
comics and cartoons, print media, illustration and murals. The fourth cluster
encompasses crafts, and includes primarily studies on ceramics and beadwork.
Lastly, a more recent cluster of studies has emerged from design departments
specifically around fashion, product, furniture and interior design, some of
which offers analysis which is relevant to design historical understanding.
From the above it becomes clear that although design history is overtly
acknowledged in the southern African academy only by way of the naming
of individual subjects on undergraduate level, it can nonetheless be detected
within some of the output of postgraduate students at South African universities.
In the following section a number of academic journals and conferences are
selected for review to ascertain their contribution to knowledge of southern
African design history.
Academic Conferences
A number of organizations convene academic conferences which offer the
opportunity to present design history papers. In South Africa the Design
Education Forum of Southern Africa (DEFSA) and the South African Visual Art
Historians (SAVAH) host annual academic conferences. DEFSA was founded in
1991 and the hosting of conferences has been its most important function since
its inception (Breytenbach 2009: 8). The DEFSA website (DEFSA; retrieved
22 August 2014 from http://www.defsa.co.za) holds some of the conference
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48
Deirdre Pretorius
proceedings from 2000 to 2013 and these show that DEFSA has tended to focus
on teaching, learning and programme development issues. Only from 2007
have design history contributions started to appear on architecture, typography,
fashion design and monographs of South African designers.
SAVAH ‘is an organization of academics and professionals that seek to
advance the professional practice of art history and visual culture in South Africa
and to forge relations with practitioners from other disciplines and regions’
(SAVAH; retrieved 22 August 2014 from http://savah.org.za/?page_id=5).
The organization was founded in 1984 under the name the South African
Association of Art Historians and the first annual conference was held in 1985.
In 2005 the current name was adopted to show ‘a move to become more
inclusive and to adapt to the changing role of our discipline in South Africa’.
A review of the SAVAH conference proceedings from 1995 to 2013
reveals an ongoing interest in South African ceramics, monuments and architecture, and the art and representation of the San people. In addition to these
key themes, papers on comics, printed media, and clothing and fashion have
also been presented at SAVAH. In recent years papers have been delivered on
other countries in Africa including Kenya, Ghana, Cameroon, Zambia, Senegal,
Morocco and Malawi.
Two international design history conferences, namely, the biannual
conference of the International Committee for Design History and Design
Studies (ICDHS) and the Design History Society (DHS) Annual Conference
offer the opportunity for scholars from Africa to participate, and for papers on
African design to be delivered. However, such participation and contributions
have been limited, as shown by statistics published on the ICDHS website
(ICDHS; retrieved 22 August 2014 from http://www.ub.edu/gracmon/
icdhs/stats.html). During the period from 1999 to 2012 only two participants
from South Africa and one from Nigeria presented at the ICDHS conference.
The conference proceedings and programmes available on the ICDHS website
indicate that papers related to Africa were delivered in 2006 and 2010 and
covered fashion, craft and visual cultures in South Africa, Mali and West Africa
respectively.
The Design History Society explicitly aims at promoting ‘the study of
global design histories’ and ‘shaping an inclusive design history’ (Design History
Society; retrieved 22 August 2014 from http://www.designhistorysociety.
org/). To this end its 2013 conference titled Towards Global Histories of Design:
Postcolonial Perspectives was held at the National Institute of Design (NID),
Ahmedabad, India where papers were delivered on, inter alia, African textiles,
car design, architecture and visual communication (NID 2013). It is difficult
to locate all the programmes and conference proceedings from the DHS
conferences as these are not kept on the Society’s website, but from the available
information it appears that before the Ahmedabad conference there were very
few contributions from or on southern Africa.
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Does Southern African Design History Exist?
49
The review of academic conferences shows that interest in southern African
design history at local conferences has increased over the years; however, with
regard to conferences convened by international organizations participation
by southern African delegates and contributions on the region have been low.
Academic Journals
Because southern African design history exists across a ‘dispersal of sites’,
each with their own methods, nomenclatures and journals, it is particularly
challenging to trace the outline of this history. A number of English or bilingual
academic journals, published in southern Africa and outside the region, contains
articles which can be classified as southern African design history based on the
theme, content and methodology of the articles.
What follows is a summary of the findings of a review of a sample of such
journals drawn from the categories of design, art history, visual studies, material
culture, history, interdisciplinary studies, media studies and cultural studies
journals. The aim of this review is not to be exhaustive – many other journals
could be added to the sample – but to indicate that the contours of a southern
African design history become visible across and through the selected journals.
The journals were scrutinized for articles dealing with and related to the design
disciplines identified as being taught in southern Africa, namely architecture,
ceramic, fashion, graphic, interior, jewellery, product and textile design. In line
with my argument that southern African design history cannot be confined to
the study of industrialization, mass production and professional designers, the
review included hand crafted artefacts and the work of artists, craftspeople and
non-professional designers.
Journals which focus on design are the first and most obvious place to
look for southern African design history. However, apart from the Spring 2004
edition of Design Issues, which focused on South African design and visual
culture, very few southern African design history articles appear in this US
based journal or in the UK based Journal of Design History.
Image & Text (I&T ) (Fig. 2.1 and Fig. 2.2) was founded at the University
of Pretoria, South Africa in 1992 as ‘Africa’s first scholarly journal based at a
local academic design and fine arts institution’ around the ‘common concern
about the lack of published research sources, particularly in the field of South
African design’ (Lange 2012: 6). Although founded as a journal for design,
from 2011 it ‘has been repositioned as a multi- and interdisciplinary journal
that orbits around the nexus of visual culture’ (Image & Text; retrieved 22
August 2014 from http://www.imageandtext.up.ac.za/index.php/aboutimage-and-text).
From its inception a key concern of I&T was the move from ‘Europeanand North American-centric’ to Afrocentric approaches (Lange 2012: 8) and
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50
Deirdre Pretorius
over the years themes which have been addressed include design, craft, art,
popular culture, the vernacular and indigenous, design education, stereotyping,
advertising, identity, cartoons and comics, sustainability, ethics, architecture, and
political graphics, mostly with a South African focus. Art History and Visual
Culture Journals which concentrate on Africa include the South African
focused journals the South African Journal of Art History (SAJAH) and De Arte.
African Arts, Critical Interventions: Journal of African Art History and Visual Culture
and the Journal of Material Culture all have a broader sweep over the continent.
Figure 2.1 Cover of Image & Text 20, 2012. Image courtesy of Image & Text.
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Does Southern African Design History Exist?
51
Figure 2.2 Page 19 of Image & Text 20, 2012. Image courtesy of Image & Text.
It should be noted that the Journal of Material Culture does not focus exclusively
on Africa.
SAJAH is published by the Art Historical Work Group of South Africa
and both the journal and group came into being in 1983 (SAJAH; retrieved 22
August 2014 from http://www.sajah.co.za/index.php). Currently the journal
aims to publish articles on a range of topics including art and architectural
history and theory, aesthetics and philosophy of art, visual culture, film and
photography and the history of craft. Contributions focusing on design have
been made mainly since 2006, particularly with regard to architecture, building
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52
Deirdre Pretorius
and spatial planning, as well as national monuments, museums and heritage sites.
The journal further includes papers on a wide range of topics including pottery
and ceramics, graphic design, advertising, branding and media, landscape design
and plants, ethics and intellectual property, furniture, illustration, historical
maps, and colonial and postcolonial discourse. Although the focus is firmly on
South Africa, articles dealing with Zimbabwe have appeared.
De Arte (Fig. 2.3 and Fig. 2.4) is published by UNISA Press in Pretoria,
South Africa and contains articles on ‘visual arts, art history, art criticism and
related disciplines’ (De Arte; retrieved 22 August 2014 from http://reference.
sabinet.co.za/sa_epublication/dearte). As such it contains valuable information
Figure 2.3 Cover of De Arte 74, 2006. Image courtesy of De Arte.
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Does Southern African Design History Exist?
53
Figure 2.4 Pages 12 and 13 of De Arte 74, 2006. Image courtesy of De Arte.
on South African visual and material culture exhibitions and collections, as well
as book reviews. It is particularly useful for its engagement with South African
craft, including needlework, beadwork, weaving and ceramics, often written
from a feminist perspective. Articles on architecture and architectural ornament
further contribute to an understanding of South African design history. African
Arts has been published since 1967, is based at UCLA (the University of
California, Los Angeles) and covers ‘traditional, contemporary, and popular
African arts and expressive cultures’ (African Arts; retrieved 22 August 2014
from http://www.mitpressjournals.org/loi/afar). Article titles generally refer to
‘Africa’ although in a few instances a distinction is made by identifying countries
(for example ‘South Africa’, ‘Ghana’, ‘Mali’, ‘Sierra Leone’), areas (‘Eastern
Cape’, ‘Sub-Saharan Africa’), ethnic groups (‘Dogon’, ‘Makonde’, ‘Yoruba’,
‘Baule’) and language (‘Xhosa-speaking’). This type of emphasis on the African
continent over its constituent nations or regions appears less in the Africanbased journals than those published and edited elsewhere. While ‘art’ rather
than ‘design’ is the preferred term used in African Arts, articles are included on
pottery and ceramics, beadwork, cloth and textile, fashion and clothing, metal
art, decorative arts, and comics. The journal reviews books on, and collections,
exhibitions and museums of, African art. Most of the collections, exhibitions
and museums reviewed are situated in Europe and the USA with South African
based collections and institutions occasionally appearing.
More critical in nature than African Arts, Critical Interventions ‘focuses on the
arts and visual cultures of global Africa, which encapsulates African and African
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Deirdre Pretorius
Diaspora identities in the age of globalization’ and considers aspects such as
‘value and African cultural patrimony’ (Critical Interventions; retrieved 23 August
2014 from http://www.aachron.com/editions/critical_interventions/index.
php?option=com_content&view=article&id=1&Itemid=11). The journal has
published a number of special issues of which Fractals in Global Africa (Issue 1
2012), Transformations (Issue 1 2010), Africanity and North Africa (Issue 1 2009),
Visual Publics (Issue 1–2 2008) and Is African Art History? (Issue 1 2007) are
particularly relevant to design historians. Pertinent topics include the influence
of Western art education on expressions of culture in Africa, modernity, ownership of African visual culture, Pan-African manifestos and festivals, posters and
textiles.
The Journal of Material Culture, edited by academics from the University
College London, ‘is concerned with the relationship between artefacts and
social relations irrespective of time and place and aims to systematically explore
the linkage between the construction of social identities and the production and
use of culture’ (Journal of Material Culture; retrieved 23 August 2014 from http://
mcu.sagepub.com). Similar to African Arts and Critical Interventions the journal
covers topics such as pottery, museum collections, heritage and monuments, but
the emphasis on material culture, rather than art, allows it to broaden its scope
to include themes such as domestic appliances and weapons. African regions
covered include Saharan Africa, West Africa, South Africa, Mauritius, Niger,
Nigeria, Namibia, Botswana and Zambia.
History journals which contribute to southern African design history
include Kronos: Southern African Histories, the South African Historical Journal, the
South African Journal of Cultural History and Southern African Humanities, all of
which are published in South Africa. No other history journals published in
the region were identified which contribute to knowledge of southern African
design history.
Kronos has been published annually since 1979, initially under the title
Kronos: A Journal of Cape History, which focused on the Western and Eastern
Cape areas in South Africa. Earlier editions are primarily of interest to the
design historian with regard to research on archaeology and rock art, but
later editions include a variety of topics including building and architecture,
festivals, the automobile industry and industrial development, clothing, print
media, propaganda and coverage of issues of representation in southern Africa.
This development coincides with the transformation of the journal and its
renaming in 2008 ‘to indicate its expanded regional focus to southern Africa
as a whole’ (Kronos 2014). The journal focuses on ‘southern African history,
visual history, social history, cultural history, history and anthropology’ (Kronos;
retrieved 21 September 2014 from http://www.scielo.org.za/revistas/kronos/
iaboutj.htm).
The South African Historical Journal commenced publication in 1969;
however, design historical themes only started appearing in the past decade,
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Does Southern African Design History Exist?
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principally with regard to printing and printed media, museums and archives,
town planning and some architecture. The South African Journal of Cultural
History is published by the South African Society for Cultural History and a
review of issues since 2001 shows that it includes studies on the material culture
of the colonial period in South Africa. While the emphasis is on Afrikaner
culture – and the link between Dutch colonialism, trade and consumption
within the colonial Cape is made clear in many articles – contributions on
other groups and time periods are also included.
Southern African Humanities is a journal of the KwaZulu-Natal Museum
and originated in the Annals of the Natal Museum published ‘almost without
interruption from 1906 to 2000’ (Southern African Humanities; retrieved 23
August 2014 from http://www.sahumanities.org/ojs/index.php/SAH/about/
history). An online archive is available stretching back to 1970 and is useful to
design historians especially with regard to ceramics and pottery, beads, stoneage material culture, metalworking, building and settlements, architecture and
identity, memorials and other forms of material culture, not only in South
Africa but also Uganda, Lesotho and Zimbabwe.
Interdisciplinary journals offer a rich resource of southern African design
history and a review of examples from South Africa, the UK and Botswana
show a shared concern with architecture and town planning, heritage
and museums, print media, material culture and craft. In addition design
production is addressed by way of articles dealing with industrialization, labour,
manufacturing and technology.
The oldest of the three journals reviewed, the journal of the Botswana
Society, Botswana Notes and Records, has been published annually since 1969.
It covers a wide range of subjects, including architecture and town planning,
heritage and museum studies, media, publishing and handicraft with a focus
on Botswana (Botswana Notes and Records; retrieved 21 September 2014 from
http://www.botsoc.org.bw/bur/bur01.htm).
Social Dynamics is the journal of the Centre for African Studies at the
University of Cape Town, South Africa and has been published since 1975.
The journal describes itself as covering ‘the full range of humanities and social
sciences including anthropology, archaeology, economics, education, history,
literary and language studies, music, politics, psychology and sociology’ (Social
Dynamics; retrieved 23 August 2014 from http://www.tandfonline.com/action/
journalInformation?show=aimsScope&journalCode=rsdy20). While its focus
is on South Africa, its coverage includes articles on the Democratic Republic of
the Congo, Angola, Kenya and Zimbabwe. Themes addressed generally include
colonialism, modernity, globalization and representation and identity.
One year older than Social Dynamics, the UK based Journal of Southern
African Studies stretches back to 1974.The journal seeks to produce ‘fresh scholarly enquiry and rigorous exposition in the many different disciplines of the
social sciences and humanities’ and covers ‘South Africa, Namibia, Botswana,
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Deirdre Pretorius
Lesotho, Swaziland, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Malawi, Angola and Mozambique; and
occasionally, Tanzania, the Democratic Republic of Congo, Madagascar and
Mauritius’ (Journal of Southern African Studies; retrieved 23 August 2014 from
http://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?show=aimsScope
&journalCode=cjss20#.U_hBbsW1Y6w). Design history related topics only
started appearing in the past decade and are structured around identity issues
of race, class, and gender, modernity, the precolonial and colonial, culture and
politics. The emergence of these topics can most probably be ascribed to the
‘visual/pictorial turn’ and the emergence of the academic discipline ‘Visual
Studies’ which in turn influenced various disciplines in the humanities and
social sciences to consider visual culture seriously (Jay 2002: 267–268).
The last set of journals reviewed comprised Cultural and Media Studies
journals. Communicatio is a South African journal for communication theory and
research founded at the University of South Africa which in recent decades has
welcomed contributions on visual communication (Communicatio; retrieved 23
August 2014 from http://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?
show=aimsScope&journalCode=rcsa20#.U6vB8JSSw5A). Its primary value
for southern African design history is in the study of print media. A particular area of concern for Communicatio is health communication and numerous
articles explore HIV and AIDS messages. Critical Arts; South-North Cultural and
Media Studies is affiliated to the University of KwaZulu-Natal and contains
studies which examine representations of San, rock art, election campaigns,
mural art in South Africa and mass media and representation from a variety
of perspectives, including postcolonialism and nationalism. The journal Agenda
is published by a ‘feminist media organization’ of the same name which ‘aims
to achieve the goal of eradicating gender inequality and empowering women
(Agenda; retrieved 23 August 2014 from http://www.agenda.org.za/about/
vision-and-mission/) and its value to design history lies primarily in contributions which study the relation of media to the representation of gender, commodification and consumption in Africa. The Journal of African Cultural Studies
was so named in 1998 after being established in 1988 under the name African
Languages and Cultures at the School of Oriental and African Studies in London.
The focus of the journal is on ‘dimensions of African culture’ and this includes,
inter alia, an interest in the media, popular culture and culture and gender
(Journal of African Cultural Studies; retrieved 23 August 2014 from http://www.
tandfonline.com/action/ journalInformation?show=aimsScope&journalCode
=cjac20#.U7PEHpSSw5A). The journal contains a few articles on cartoons,
advertisements, clothing, monuments, textiles, and media in Kenya, Zambia,
Tanzania, South Africa and the East African coast respectively.
This journal review indicates that design historical research is being done
about most of the sub-Saharan African countries, however not necessarily from
within them, and shows the emergence of a number of common themes in
the scholarship on southern African design history. The predominant theme
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Does Southern African Design History Exist?
57
materialized as an interest in architecture and building and the related themes
of monuments, museums and heritage. The next prominent theme revolved
around graphic design and includes the study of political graphics and
propaganda, advertising and branding, cartoons and comics and print media.
Lastly, the study of ‘craft’ and ‘art’ such as beadwork, pottery, dress, furniture and
cloth, appears to be preferred to studies of ‘design’, such as jewellery, fashion,
interior and product design.
Conclusion
This chapter set out to answer the question whether southern African design
history exists by examining how academic institutions form the field. A review
of design qualifications offered in the region showed that at undergraduate level
all the countries offer qualifications in architecture, five in graphic and fashion
design, four in product and textile design, three in interior design, and one in
ceramic and jewellery design and that most offer postgraduate qualifications in
some of these design disciplines. The existence of these design qualifications
would indicate the need for students to have an understanding of the region’s
design history. However, no postgraduate design history qualifications exist,
and instead it was found that postgraduate design historical research is being
conducted in some design and many architecture, visual culture and art history
Masters and Doctoral programmes, primarily in and on South Africa. The
overview of scholarship on southern African design history in the form of
postgraduate output, academic journals and conferences shows that this history
is found in a number of sites and brought to the fore the contours of a southern
African design history shaped around architecture, monuments, museums and
heritage, graphic design, and various artefacts from everyday life including
beadwork, pottery, dress, and furniture.
While it has been shown that a body of southern African design history
exists, albeit primarily with a South African focus, I would argue that access to
this body of knowledge is hampered by its wide dispersal and compounded by
the difficulty of accessing conference papers, by the fact that most postgraduate
research remains unpublished and buried in institutional repositories, and by
the low conference participation of southern African delegates to international
design history conferences.
This then raises the question to what extent southern African design
history is included in the curriculum of the design programmes offered at institutions of higher learning in the region. The barriers to accessing this knowledge would indicate that it is probably low, but further research is required to
confirm this assumption. Such research would form part of a larger research
agenda which is required to enable southern African design history to become
visible.
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58
Deirdre Pretorius
At the outset I acknowledged that this first survey of southern African
design history writing will inevitably be incomplete and much research
remains to be done, particularly with regard to the design history content
taught in design programmes in the region, and the role of academic and
popular books, research centres, museums, libraries, and archives, exhibitions
and fairs, professional associations and government policy in the development
of the field. In addition, the history of design of the region can be made visible
by publishing survey histories and readers and by increased contributions on
southern African design history at design history conferences and to established
design journals.
Notes
I would like to thank the following colleagues for their constructive comments on the first draft
of this chapter: Marian Sauthoff, Ian Sutherland, Jeanne van Eeden, Keith Dietrich, Karen von
Veh, Amanda Breytenbach and Muffin Stevens. I am also indebted to the editors of this volume
for their guidance, suggestions and encouragement.
1. All statistical information was obtained from the relevant country’s page on Wikipedia.
2. The websites of the following institutions offering design qualifications were reviewed:
Bulawayo Polytechnic, College of the Arts, Cape Peninsula University of Technology, Chinhoyi
University of Technology, Durban University of Technology, Gweru Polytechnic, Harare
Polytechnic, Limkokwing University of Creative Technology, Mutare Polytechnic, Nelson
Mandela Metropolitan University, North-West University, National University of Science and
Technology, Polytechnic of Namibia, Tshwane University of Technology, University of Botswana,
University of Cape Town, University of the Free State, University of Johannesburg, University of
KwaZulu-Natal, University of Pretoria, University of Stellenbosch,Vaal University of Technology,
University of the Witwatersrand, Walter Sisulu University and Zimbabwe Institute of Digital Arts.
3. For a South African perspective on the contested relationship between art history and
visual culture studies see Lauwrens (2005).
References
Breytenbach, A. 2009. ‘Reflecting on the Past, Present and Future Role of the Design Education
Forum of Southern Africa’, Image & Text (15): 6–19.
Chipkin, I. 2007. Do South Africans Exist? Nationalism, Democracy and the Identity of ‘The People’.
Johannesburg: WITS University Press.
Dilnot, C. 1984a. ‘The State of Design History, part I Mapping the Field’, Design Issues 1(1): 4–23.
———. 1984b. ‘The State of Design History, part II Problems and Possibilities’, Design Issues 1(2):
3–20.
Fallan, K. 2010. Design History; Understanding Theory and Method. New York: Berg.
Huppatz, D.J. 2014. ‘Introduction: Reframing Australian Design History’, Journal of Design History
27(2): 205–223.
Huppatz, D.J. and G. Lees-Maffei. 2012. ‘Why Design History? A Multi-national Perspective
on the State and Purpose of the Field’, Arts and Humanities in Higher Education 12(2–3):
310–330.
Jay, M. 2002. ‘Cultural Relativism and the Visual Turn’, Journal of Visual Culture 1(3): 267–278.
Krieger, J. 2001. The Oxford Companion to Politics of the World. Oxford: Oxford University Press.
This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
Does Southern African Design History Exist?
59
Lange, J. 2012. ‘Foreword: Evaluation, Reflection, Comment and Analysis: Twenty Years of Image
& Text’, Image & Text (20): 6–29.
Lauwrens, J. 2005. ‘Do Good Fences Make Good Neighbours: Reviewing Disciplinary Borders in
Art History and Visual Culture Studies’, De Arte 72: 49–57.
Margolin, V. 2002. The Politics of the Artificial; Essays on Design and Design Studies. Chicago:
University of Chicago Press.
NID. 2013. ‘Programme: Towards Global Histories of Design: Postcolonial Perspectives’.
Ahmedabad: NID.
Pacey, P. 1992. ‘“Anyone Designing Anything?” Non-professional Designers and the History of
Design’, Journal of Design History 5(3): 217–225.
Turner, M. 1995. ‘Early Modern Design in Hong Kong’, Design Issues 6(1): 79–91.
United Nations. 2013. ‘Composition of macro geographical (continental) regions, geographical
sub-regions, and selected economic and other groupings’. Retrieved 22 August 2014 from
http://millenniumindicators.un.org/unsd/methods/m49/m49regin.htm
———. 2014. ‘Standard Country or Area Codes for Statistical Use’. Retrieved 26 November
2014 from http://millenniumindicators.un.org/unsd/methods/m49/m49.htm
Woodham, J.M. 2005. ‘Local, National and Global; Redrawing the Design Historical Map’, Journal
of Design History 18(3): 257–267.
Deirdre Pretorius is Associate Professor and Head of the Department of
Graphic Design in the Faculty of Art, Design and Architecture (FADA) at the
University of Johannesburg, South Africa. Her main research interest is the
history of graphic design in South Africa, particularly in relation to printed
propaganda. To this end she has published a number of journal articles on the
printed propaganda of the Communist Party of South African from 1921 to
1950.
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CH APTER
3
Designing the South African Nation
From Nature to Culture
Jacques Lange and Jeanne van Eeden
There is to date very little published research and writing about South
African design history. One of the main obstacles has been dealing with the
legacy of forty years of apartheid censorship (1950 to 1990) that banned
and destroyed a vast array of visual culture in the interests of propaganda
and national security, according to the Beacon for Freedom of Expression
(http://search.beaconforfreedom.org/about_database/south%20africa.html).
This paucity of material is aggravated by the general lack of archival and documentary evidence, not just of the struggle against apartheid, but also of the
wider domain of design in South Africa. Even mainstream designed material for the British imperialist and later apartheid government has been lost
or neglected in the inadequate archival facilities of the State and influential
organizations such as the South African Railways. Efforts to redress this are
now appearing as scholars start to piece together fragments, not in order to
write a definitive history of South African design, but rather to write histories
of design in South Africa that recuperate neglected narratives or revise earlier
historiographies.
This chapter is accordingly an attempt to document a number of key
moments in the creation of South African nationhood between 1910 and
2013 in which communication design played a part. Our point of departure is
rooted in Zukin’s (1991: 16) belief that symbolic and material manifestations
of power harbour the ideological needs of powerful institutions to manipulate
class, gender and race relations, ultimately to serve the needs of capital (and
governance). South Africa passed through various iterations of colonial
Notes for this section begin on page 73.
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Designing the South African Nation
61
domination before attaining monolithic control over the black majority
population, which only ended in the 1990s with the emergence of democracy.
We shall examine the official or sanctioned historiography of South Africa from
1910 to 2013 and show how selected myths of nationhood were employed
for ideological purposes. We shall suggest that selected state institutions and
government-sponsored initiatives created prisms through which successive
South African ‘imagined communities’ were represented visually (Anderson
2006).
We shall not necessarily discuss these official discourses in terms of
success or failure but, rather, we want to emphasize the vital role that communication design played in ideological activation. The manner in which
South Africa was projected – from being a ‘white’ nation for white people
to a post-apartheid state for a new multiracial constituency – corresponds to
the change from colonial to postcolonial and global gazes. In attaining this
status, a new visual language emerged that rejected the clichéd colonialist
image of South Africa and explored its new, confident urban identity of the
early twenty-first century. Sauthoff (2004: 35–36) argues that this ‘capacity
of visual domains to clarify cultural identity, forge a national consciousness,
and contribute to the expression a national identity’ encapsulates the way in
which the ‘new social, political, and cultural order is conceptually fixed and
visually registered’.
As stated above, this chapter is not a national history of design, nor does
it attempt to deal with issues related to the ontology or teaching of design
history in South Africa. There has been a lack of a critical discourse in South
Africa about these matters, largely as a result of inadequate documentation
and ongoing debates concerning contested national histories. South African
historiography in general has traditionally been divided into successive
schools – British imperialist, settler colonialist, Afrikaner nationalist, and the
revisionist – but only the latter started to incorporate broader social history
in the 1990s (Visser 2004: 1). At that time, South African (cultural) historians
started to interrogate issues such as identity, gender, memory, heritage, environmentalism, national monuments and museums, and leisure and tourism (Visser
2004: 17–19). Writing as a communication designer and a visual culture specialist respectively, we consider that writings on design could benefit from the
interdisciplinarity ushered in by cultural studies during the latter part of the
twentieth century. In particular, cultural studies scholars’ interest in the operations of ideology and power by means of cultural practices (such as design)
informs this chapter.
In order to investigate how communication design mythologized the
nation and invested meaning in signifiers to invent the idea of the nation, we
shall look at three key periods in South African history: 1910 to 1948, 1948 to
1990, and 1990 to the present.
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62
Jacques Lange and Jeanne Van Eeden
A ‘White Man’s Land’, 1910–1948
The first colonial settlement of South Africa was undertaken by the Netherlands
in 1652, but Britain became the dominant imperial power after 1815. By the
late 1800s, what was once the vast, unspoilt domain of the San and Khoikhoi
was ruled by white colonizers and worked by the descendants of their Malay
(Coloured) slaves and Indian indentured labourers. Under British colonial rule,
land previously populated by indigenous peoples became the Cape Colony,
Republic of Natalia, Republic of the Orange Free State and the Transvaal
Republic. British domination was maintained until after the end of the South
African War (1899–1902). After this victory by Great Britain, the imperative of
nation building and conciliation between the English- and Afrikaans-speaking
white people became a national priority. The Union of South Africa was
declared in 1910 and after this, successive white governments enacted policies
that gave control of the land and economy to a white minority, entrenched
urban segregation, and controlled black movement (for example, the Natives
Land Act of 1913). The declaration of Union facilitated the reinvention of the
South African nation, constructed principally around the notion of modernization to counter connotations of backwardness (Rassool and Witz 1996: 359).
Modernization, as a metaphor for the advantages of Western culture, stood as
a powerful counterfoil against the colonial legacy of essentialist imagery, based
on stereotypes of nature, by which (South) Africa had previously been represented. The period from Union until 1948 is characterized by the oscillation
between images of nature/‘primitivism’ with images that asserted the advantages of culture/modernity; this rhetoric satisfied Western desire for the exotic,
but simultaneously offered reassuring images of ‘civilization’ (Rassool and Witz
1996: 364).
One of the most influential bodies that shaped the Union was the South
African Railways (SAR). With the South Africa Act of 1909, the formerly
separate railway systems were combined into the government-controlled
South African Railway and Harbour Administration (SAR&H) under the first
General Manager, Sir William Hoy. The SAR controlled all the harbours, train
services, motor bus services, and air travel, representing an effective monopoly
related to travel to, in, and from South Africa. The SAR was not limited to
transportation; according to Foster (2003: 661), as one of the main employers,
it influenced almost every aspect of South Africa’s social and economic life.
The SAR expedited the expansion of the mines and agriculture and facilitated
the urbanization and industrialization that made the Witwatersrand the economic centre of South Africa (Foster 2008: 34–36). According to Foster (2008:
203), the first-generation Anglophile administrators of the SAR strategically
aligned their policies with those of the Union government to illustrate the
advantages of capitalism, imperialism, urbanization and modernization (Foster
2003: 661, 663).
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Designing the South African Nation
63
The process of conceptualizing a new metanarrative of South Africa
was, for the first time, largely a visual one. The SAR established a Publicity
Department (SARPD) in 1910, under Mr A.H. Tatlow to deal with publicity in newspaper, magazine and book advertisements, guide-books, pamphlets,
posters, and photographs (SAR 1910: 36). The purpose of the ‘publicity propaganda’ produced by the SAR was to disseminate visual material of ‘South
African scenery and industries in all parts of the world’ (SAR 1910: 37) to
stimulate tourism and industrial investment in South Africa (SAR 1911: 43).
The SARPD employed photographers and graphic ‘artists’ to envision the new
nation, and as British trends predominated in the first half of the twentieth
century, most of these artists had strong ties with the English-speaking audience in South Africa (Sutherland 2004: 53). Throughout the 1920s and 1930s,
The Illustrated London News carried extensive advertisements by the SAR. The
visual and written rhetoric centred on the myth of nature that tapped into
the prevailing fashion for sunshine as healthy and restorative. South Africa, ‘the
Empire’s sun land’ (Fig. 3.1), was accordingly promoted for its outdoor life, fresh
mountain air of the veld, and escapism. But the ‘vast romance and inspiration of
Africa’ (Fig. 3.1) was continually offset by reassuring images of modernity: ‘Few
countries so perfectly blend the luxury of modern civilisation with primitive
customs’ (The Illustrated London News, 9 October 1937); the SAR often used
transport as the signifier of modernity that helped to create the myth of the
modern South African nation.
The SAR also had vested interests in how (white) middle-class South
Africans imagined ‘their’ country, and helped to promote a common white
identity that was largely based on familiarity with, and entitlement to, the land
(Foster 2003: 660). The SARPD documented the country visually and created
iconic views that formed a conceptual prism through which notions of nationhood and the idea of South Africa as a ‘white man’s country’ were read (Foster
Figure 3.1 SARPD advertisements in The Illustrated London News. From left to right:
‘South Africa. The Empire’s sun land’, 28 July 1928; ‘Visit South Africa’s Riviera’,
12 September 1936; ‘South Africa’, 9 October 1937; ‘For speed and comfort’, poster
published by South African Railways & Airways, circa 1934. Courtesy of Transnet
Heritage Library.
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64
Jacques Lange and Jeanne Van Eeden
2008: 40–42, 49, 86–87). These images included natural scenes such as Table
Mountain, the veld, and the Drakensberg, but also cultural production such as
so-called Bushman paintings and Cape Dutch architecture. These Cape Dutch
gables became emblems of an idealized, romanticized white history, and were
taken up by the ‘hegemonic official discourse of nationalism’ (Coetzer 2007:
174), forging a new social imaginary of white South Africa.
In 1947, the state-sponsored South African Tourist Corporation (Satour)
was founded and its mandate was to publicize South Africa for the international
market, whereas the SARPD continued to focus on the domestic market.
Particularly during the apartheid years, Satour played a key role in projecting a
positive view of South Africa and supporting the country’s policies.
The Anglophile nature of the South African Union began to change
during the 1920s. The pact government in 1924 between the National Party
and the Labour Party offered preferential treatment for white (Afrikaans)
farmers and workers, especially in the SAR. The rise of Afrikaner nationalism
during the 1930s brought to an end the solidarity that had existed between
English- and Afrikaans-speaking South Africans during the early decades of
the twentieth century (Foster 2008: 250). Afrikaner nationalism was supported
by the founding of the Broederbond,1 FAK (Federation of Afrikaner Cultural
Organizations), and the ATKV (Afrikaans Language and Cultural Organization,
the cultural arm of the SAR) in the 1920s, the recognition of Afrikaans as an
official language in 1925, and the creation of a new national flag in 1928 (Fig.
3.2).
Figure 3.2 The South African national flag, 1928–1994. Image courtesy of South
African Bureau of Heraldry.
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Designing the South African Nation
65
The political history of this flag offers a representative narrative of this era
in South Africa’s quest for nationhood since it raises many questions related to
imperialism, nationality, compromise, concession and imagined cohesion, which
have been largely unexplored in the design discourse. South Africa used the
defaced red and blue British ensigns as national flags after 1910 (Brownell 2011:
43–44). In 1925, the Union Parliament introduced a bill that paved the way for
a new South African flag. The design process sparked emotional controversy
and dissent between English and Afrikaans speakers regarding the inclusion or
not of the Union Jack, as it was felt that this perpetuated British dominance
(Brownell 2011: 46). A compromise was reached by making the orange, white
and blue Prinzenvlag the basis of the design since it was considered to be nonpolitical and probably the first to be raised in South Africa by Jan van Riebeeck
in 1652.The Union Jack, the flag of the Republic of the Orange Free State and
the Transvaal Vierkleur were positioned as flaglets in the centre of the white band
as a gesture of compromised cohesion (Brownell 2011: 48).The Nationality and
Flags Act of 1927 provided further concessions by allowing the Union Jack to
be flown alongside the new South African flag, an arrangement that lasted until
1957. These compromises for the sake of cohesion seem to be a re-occurring
metanarrative of South Africa’s complex history as the terms represent a prism
that reflects the win/loose, loose/win, or win/win scenarios for different interest groups at various stages.
The gradual Afrikanerization of government in the 1910 to 1948 era
culminated in the victory of the National Party in 1948, ushering in the era
of apartheid rule and the win/loose scenario of imagined cohesion where the
majority black population lost the right to self-determination for more than
forty years.
Communication Design under Apartheid, 1948–1990
Benedict Anderson (2006: 6) famously defines a nation as ‘an imagined political
community – and imagined as both inherently limited and sovereign’.The myth
of the apartheid era mainly centred on the concept of nurturing the notion of
the volk, the Afrikaans term for nation or people. The relevance of the term is
an imagined identity or perhaps more accurately, a community of (self )interest,
since it symbolically describes the rise of Afrikaner nationalism as a political
ideology that excluded the realities of all South Africans. Three key aspects
determined how this manifested itself in the political and communication
design domains: language (Afrikaans), religion (Calvinism), and ethnicity (separation). In the late nineteenth century, the Rev. S.J. Du Toit proposed that
Afrikaners were a distinct nationality with a fatherland2 (South Africa) and their
own language (Afrikaans) and that the volk’s destiny was to rule South Africa.
For more than forty years, the National Party built on this mythic tripartite
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66
Jacques Lange and Jeanne Van Eeden
conception, which eventually resulted in the ostracization of South Africa from
the international arena.
The Nationalist government implemented numerous apartheid
policies, including the Prohibition of Mixed Marriages Act, Suppression
of Communism Act, Population Registration Act, Group Areas Act and the
Immorality Amendment Act. The most notable outcome was the establishment
of bantustans (homelands) from the 1950s onwards as a means of segregating
the black and white populations, which resulted in the forced relocation of
vast numbers of people. The total land allocated for black people was 13 per
cent, while the remainder was reserved for white South Africa to develop
and prosper from the country’s natural and mineral wealth. The government
focused on its global gaze and appropriated the British imperialist model of
modernity and rapid development in conjunction with what was considered
morality within apartheid’s ideological framework.The long-term goal was that
the homelands would become autonomous states based on principles of ethnic
self-determination and segregated development, and they had to develop their
own visual identities by means of flags and heraldic and other symbols.
The Nationalists understood the power of the visual language and used it
to entrench political dogma. The notorious Broederbond infiltrated all spheres of
society and acted as government propagandists (and censors). The government
invested heavily in acquiring influence over the media and publishing sector
and produced mass propaganda to influence the mindsets and perception of
the population – black and white. Government controlled the radio service
and the country did not have a television service until 1976. Furthermore,
the largest newspaper group, which controlled 90 per cent of all printed
media, was privately owned but ran by powerful Broederbond members and was
closely aligned to the government’s interests (Venter 2013; Hydén, Leslie and
Ogundimu 2003: 146).
During the 1950s, the official mythic discourse was propagated by
government-sponsored journals such as Panorama and Lantern,3 which were
targeted at a local white audience but also had a substantial international readership. According to Groenewald (2012: 61–62), Panorama failed ‘to contextualise their relentlessly positive reportage, and [were] selective in their portrayal of
cultural [and political] experiences within South Africa’. Much of the reportage
and visual imagery focused on representing South Africa in terms of Western
constructs of modernity and development, firmly rooted in the worldview of
an exclusively white South Africa. In contrast, magazines such as Drum, Bona
and Zonk! 4 were targeted at a black readership, reflected the dynamic changes
that were taking place among the new urban black South African communities. Peter Magubane maintains that ‘Drum was a different home; it did not have
apartheid. There was no discrimination . . . It was only when you left Drum and
entered the world outside of the main door that you knew you were in apartheid land’ (Barlow 2006).
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Designing the South African Nation
67
On 21 March 1960, a mass demonstration against apartheid pass laws
erupted into a massacre of sixty-nine people by the police in the township of
Sharpeville and resulted in the declaration of a state of emergency. In May 1961,
South Africa declared itself a republic and left the British Commonwealth. In
the same year, Nelson Mandela proposed the adoption of armed struggle to
achieve liberation for the disenfranchised. Mandela and his Rivonia Trial peers
were sentenced to life imprisonment for treason against the apartheid state
in 1963. By 1966, the United Nations General Assembly had endorsed the
cultural boycott against South Africa and in 1970 declared apartheid ‘a crime
against the conscience and dignity of mankind’ (United Nations Juridical Yearbook
1970: 53).
South Africa was plunged into an economic crisis and the government’s
Department of Information aggressively responded by increasing investment
in all available media resources to support local and international propaganda
campaigns to manage the government and country’s reputation (Marsh 1991).
So, for instance, publicity material produced during the 1960s and 1970s by
Satour featured the obligatory images of sun, sea, sport and wildlife as ‘South
Africa had to [continue to] appear as an invitingly outdoor, exclusively white
country’ – a truly imagined community that was not aligned with reality
(Grundlingh 2006: 110). Grundlingh (2006: 110–111) further asserts that as a
tourist destination, South Africa was still principally associated with outdoorism,
primitivism, wildlife and leisure. Satour’s promotional material was accordingly
constructed around the mythic rhetoric of sunny skies, the romance of gold
and diamond mines, adventure, wild animals in their natural surroundings, and
the ceremonies, colourful dress and charming dances of the so-called natives.
The Soweto riots of 1976, partly a protest against the imposition of Afrikaans
as a primary medium of instruction in public schools, led to further states of
emergency and irreparable damage to South Africa’s reputation. By the 1980s,
South Africa was at the precipice of a civil war and the Nationalist government
had to embark on a road of negotiated transformation. But the government
still implemented strict censorship, which had a direct impact on the design
sector (Beacon for Freedom of Expression). Testimony to this is the fact that
few examples of resistance and liberation struggle communication design
still exist because most were destroyed by the police and the Bureau of State
Security, leaving design historians with few archival resources to explore the
history of this period. So, for example, between 1979 and 1985, protest posters
that were printed in Botswana and smuggled into South Africa to display on
walls were immediately ‘ripped down . . . by the security police’ (South African
History Online a). The government also manipulated the demographics of the
design profession by controlling access to tertiary education according to race.
By the mid-1980s, twelve public higher education institutions offered design
education, but these were segregated according to race with few granting access
to people of colour.
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68
Jacques Lange and Jeanne Van Eeden
Communication design produced during the apartheid era for mainstream
discourse was stylistically comparable with what was being produced in Western
countries. The principles of Modernism ruled – a perfect fit for Nationalist
philosophies since the international ‘rules of form comfortably fitted the
functions’ of the regime (Lange 2005). Van Wyk (2001, emphasis added) states
that:
Design in pre-democratic South Africa was hardly reflective of its own space.
The virtually exclusively white design fraternity kept their eyes firmly trained on
the North. Bauhaus Modernism and its attendant philosophy of form following
function dictated training and practice as designers strove towards the western
aesthetic . . . This . . . echoed the unrealistic ideals of a regime that doggedly denied
its African context.
The rhetoric of nation building as a theme was adopted by both politicians
and commercial enterprises during the transition years between the late 1980s
and 1994, but the sense of nationhood proved to be more elusive (Sutherland
2004: 57).
Today I Live in a Country of the Free: The Creation of the
Rainbow Nation, 1990–2013
Nelson Mandela was freed on 11 February 1990 after twenty-seven years of
incarceration, which ushered in an era of dramatic political reforms and setting
South Africa on ‘a path of negotiation politics motivated by the new ethic of
compromise and win-win solutions’ (Van der Merwe and Johnson 1997: 1).
Accordingly, the multi-party Negotiating Council and later the Transitional
Executive Council used one of the most important national symbols, the
flag, to make bold statements about the country’s commitment to a free and
representative society (Brownell 2011: 51–59). After almost a half century
of liberation struggle, in April 1994 the previously disenfranchised majority
participated in the first democratic election and voted the African National
Congress (ANC) into power. On 10 May 1994, Mandela was inaugurated as
president of the Republic under a new interim flag,5 designed by Fred Brownell.
The new six-colour flag (Fig. 3.3) represented what Nobel Laureate Archbishop
Desmond Tutu metaphorically described as the rainbow nation’s convergence
of cultures, people and inclusive ideologies (Desmond Tutu Diversity Trust;
retrieved 1 December 2013 from http://www.desmondtutudiversitytrust.org.
za/patron.htm). What was previously a highly regulated and divisive national
symbol now became a popular and unifying symbol of the people of South
Africa (Brownell 2011: 61–62).
‘Rainbowism’ became the principal post-apartheid myth. Almost overnight, South Africa changed its international image from being one of the
worst pariahs to becoming an example of peaceful transformation. The
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Designing the South African Nation
69
Figure 3.3 The South African flag (1994, left), Coat of Arms (2000, centre) and
National Orders (2003, right). Images courtesy of South African Bureau of Heraldry
and The Presidency.
reality is, however, that this was accompanied by pain, concessions, compromises, disappointments and idealistic hopes for a brighter future. The poet
Antjie Krog dismisses notions that the rainbow nation implies that everything
is always perfect and states perceptively that ‘[t]he rainbow in the sky can
only be formed with unstable and contradictory conditions . . . It must still be
raining, but the sun must also shine . . . One should therefore refuse any pressure to reflect the Hollywood “Someday over the rainbow” . . .’ (Cunningham
2010). For designers, this posed many challenges since they were intimately
involved in shaping the rainbow myth. The search for a new common South
Africanness was, and remains, complex and largely illusory. The new South
Africa consists of a tangled tapestry of heterogeneous cultures characterized
by deep-seated racial, ethnic and religious differences, eleven official languages,
extreme socio-economic disparity, and divisive ideologies that are often sites
of struggle (Bornman 2006) and interference in the quest to attain the elusive
state of nationhood.
Under the reconciliatory presidency of Mandela (1994–1999), radical
change became part of the fibre of the country in pursuit of nationhood and
the redefinition of identity. Mandela focused on fostering social cohesion and
became the symbolic face of the country’s new ideals. This made him the most
powerful and recognized visual icon of democratic South Africa, and indeed
democracy worldwide (Du Preez 2013).
The communication sector was deployed to educate the nation regarding
its new value systems, constitution, transformation policies and reconstruction
programmes. It also contributed to an extensive rebranding campaign of almost
everything that government controlled, ranging from geographic names to the
identities of national sporting teams and corporate identities of state institutions and enterprises (South African History Online b). Examples include the
restructuring of the country’s former four colonially-named provinces to nine,
which required the design of new regional identities and symbols. This process
was echoed in the strategic renaming of many towns, cities and municipalities to reflect their post-liberation identities – many reverted to their precolonial and pre-apartheid heritage. Visually, these identities manifested themselves
mainly in heraldic traditions, but the symbolism was rooted in a South African
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70
Jacques Lange and Jeanne Van Eeden
context, often resulting in curious fusions characterized by mimicry, cultural
appropriation, quotation, eclecticism and surface (Sauthoff 2004: 37).
In June 1999,Thabo Mbeki became President and implemented a different
and more pragmatic approach to nation building by focusing on economic
growth and African pride. Mbeki also understood the important role that design
could play in achieving his government’s strategic goals. The Government
Communication and Information Service was positioned within the office of
the Presidency and served as a channel through which Mbeki engaged with
the communication and design sectors. In 2001, the International Marketing
Council was established, partly to create a consolidated strategy – Brand South
Africa – with a consistent message that highlighted strategic advantages in terms
of trade and tourism in a very competitive marketplace (Brand South Africa,
http://www.brandsouthafrica.com/who-we-are).
Mbeki is best known for championing the African Renaissance, which
focuses on a sense of continental pride and more specifically, the inclusive
humanistic philosophy of Ubuntu, or human kindness. In 1999, Mbeki
commissioned the redesign of the South African Coat of Arms (Fig. 3.3). It
was based on a European heraldic structure, but the individual elements were
clearly African.The central shield features two Khoisan figures, representing ‘the
beginning of the individual’s transformation into the greater sense of belonging
to the nation and by extension, collective humanity’ (Mbeki 2000). The most
unconventional element was the introduction of the motto ‘!ke e: /xarra //ke’
(diverse people unite), written in the language of the now extinct /Xam people.
For Mbeki (2000), ‘these words on our coat of arms . . . make a commitment
to value life, to respect all languages and cultures and to oppose racism, sexism,
chauvinism and genocide’.
In 2003, the country’s National Orders were also redesigned (Fig. 3.3).
The designers attempted to capture the essence of a new aesthetic that took
cognisance of Africa and reflected the new spirit of the country through its
designs, honouring its history through the renaming of the orders, as well as
celebrating the country’s indigenous materials (South African Government
Online).
Government initiatives thus led the way in developing the official new
face of the country’s graphic symbology post-1994, but since the early 1990s,
designers had already proactively established their own initiatives in pursuit
of a visual language that reflected the emerging new society. Johan van Wyk
(2001) states that: ‘The elections of 1994 signified not only a political liberation
for South Africa but also a cultural one. In its wake local designers could
for the first time reflect the country’s diversity without making an overtly
antagonistic political statement and risking retribution’. Leading this dynamic
era of exploration was Garth Walker, founder and publisher of the seminal
experimental magazine i-jusi (Fig. 3.4), who said that: ‘A new way of seeing was
born – a new visual order to reflect a new social order. People were waking to
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Designing the South African Nation
71
Figure 3.4 Covers and page spreads from various early editions of i-juisi magazine.
Images courtesy of i-juisi and Garth Walker.
the possibilities of a visual language rooted in the African experience’ (Van Wyk
2001). One of the key results of the i-jusi phenomenon was the development of
a uniquely South African design process, based on documentary and bricolage
(Lange 2013: 11; Sauthoff 2006: 14).
The outcome was a hybrid of cultural representation that combined images
taken from nature, popular culture, everyday life, street signage, vernacular
language and traditional crafts, thereby foregrounding vibrant urban culture as
the new face of South Africa.The new approach was firmly rooted in Africa and
the new aesthetic opted to honour spontaneity and imperfection, as opposed
to Westernized ideals of balance and aesthetic perfection (Lange 2005). This
urban culture is, however, not ‘backward’ or ‘uncivilized’, in the old parlance
of colonial discourse – it merges the geometric forms of African decorative
art comfortably with imagery derived from high-tech information technology.
One example of this is Walker’s design of a typeface for the new
Constitutional Court in 2003, which was built on a site that contains a
historical fort and several prisons that had incarcerated people such as Ghandi
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72
Jacques Lange and Jeanne Van Eeden
Figure 3.5 Façade of the South African Constitutional Court featuring the customdesigned typeface designed by Garth Walker. Image courtesy of Garth Walker.
and Mandela (Fig. 3.5). Walker studied archival material, signage and prisoner
graffiti on cell walls, and the design solution speaks the visual language of the
site and its fraught history (Sauthoff 2006).
Another seminal moment in South Africa’s recent design history that
channelled official mythic discourse in the interests of nation building was
when the country hosted the FIFA World Cup in 2010. According to Asmal
(2013), ‘South African identity has been over-simplified . . . Stereotypical
images, and heated news reports have painted a deductive wash over a nation of
incredible complexity and cultural diversity’. During 2010, a collective identity
became more apparent, and the country’s ‘planning, economic, business, arts
and advanced infrastructure were on display. South African cities replaced the
savannah, world-class transport replaced the mountains, images of a nation
united replaced those of crime, and organizational triumphs replaced those of
corruption . . . South Africa forged a new, confident, urban identity emerging from
the World Cup’ (Asmal 2013, emphasis added).
Conclusion
It is perhaps fitting to end this overview with the death of Nelson Mandela (18
July 1918–5 December 2013), as his lifelong struggle for a democratic South
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Designing the South African Nation
73
Africa almost exactly paralleled the path to nationhood sketched in this chapter.
The elaborately scripted and visual process of iconization that followed his
passing introduced literally overnight a new era of discourse about how South
Africans perceive themselves as a united nation.
The process of writing national histories is bound to be fraught with tensions and omissions, even more so in a country such as South Africa that has had
an incredibly complex history. As alluded to previously, the absence of a proper
design history discourse has been exacerbated by contested histories and a scarcity of visual and archival material.6 Already in 1988, the historian Smith (1988:
8) remarked that the decolonization of South African history had started to take
place, ousting previous Eurocentric ideas and incorporating a richer social and
more Africanized history. In this chapter, we indicated how successive state or
government institutions ‘scripted’ different versions of nationhood that were
executed, acted out and performed by designers in the visual domain. Colonial
legacies of visual stereotyping in terms of race and national identity were found
to be wanting, and a new, more inclusive and representative visual vocabulary
was established that reflected and possibly helped to construct this emerging
Africanization.This process is by no means over, as the imperatives of globalization continue to inform the contemporary South African ‘imagined community’ and challenge the need for indigenous and inclusive histories of the visual.
Notes
1. Literally, ‘brotherhood’ – a clandestine (and all-male) Nationalist network of Afrikaans
politicians, businessmen, academics, religious and community leaders, and media owners.
2. This paternal reference is historically relevant since (white) women were only given
voting rights in 1930.
3. Lantern was published between 1951 and 1994, Panorama from 1956 to 1992.
4. Zonk! was first published in 1941, Drum in 1951 and Bona in 1956.
5. It was officially adopted as the permanent national flag in 1996.
6. See the special issue of Africa Today 52(2), dedicated to ‘African Electronic Publishing’
and in particular the article by Isaacman, Lalu and Nygren (2005: 55–77) on the digitization of a
postcolonial South African archive.
References
Anderson, B. 2006. Imagined Communities: Reflections on the Origin and Spread of Nationalism
(Revised and extended edition.). London:Verso.
Asmal, Z. 2013. ‘South African Identity’. Retrieved 16 June 2013 from http://www.
designingsouthafrica.com/cities-report/south-african-identity/
Barlow, P. 2006. ‘To the Point with Peter Magubane’. Retrieved 1 September 2013 from http://
ruactivate.wordpress.com/2006/08/14/to-the-point-with-peter-magubane/
Bornman, E. 2006. ‘National Symbols and Nation-building in the Post-apartheid South Africa’,
International Journal for Intercultural Relations 30(3): 383–399.
Brownell, F. 2011. ‘Flagging the “New” South Africa, 1910–2010’, Historia 56(1): 42–62.
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74
Jacques Lange and Jeanne Van Eeden
Coetzer, N. 2007.‘A Common Heritage / An Appropriated History:The Cape Dutch Preservation
and Revival Movement as Nation and Empire Builder’, South African Journal of Art History
22(1): 150–179.
Cunningham, J. 2010. ‘Rainbow Nation: Myth or Reality?’ Retrieved on 29 October 2010 from
www.sagoodnews.co.za/newsletter_archive/rainbow_nation_myth_or_reality_.html
Du Preez, A. 2013. ‘Mandela Poster Collective. Mandela: Icon Lost and Regained’, Image & Text
21: 140–149.
Foster, J. 2003. ‘Land of Contrasts or Home we Have Always Known?: The SAR&H and the
Imaginary Geography of White South African Nationhood, 1910–1930’, Journal of Southern
African Studies 29(3): 657–680.
______. 2008. Washed with Sun. Landscape and the Making of White South Africa. Pittsburgh, PA:
University of Pittsburgh Press.
Groenewald, L. 2012.‘Cloudless Skies Versus Vitamins of the Mind: an Argumentative Interrogation
of the Visual Rhetoric of South African Panorama and Lantern Cover Designs (1949–1961)’,
Image & Text 20: 50–86.
Grundlingh, A. 2006. ‘Revisiting the “Old” South Africa: Excursions into South Africa‘s Tourist
History Under Apartheid, 1948–1990’, South African Historical Journal 56: 103–122.
Hydén, G., M. Leslie and F. Ogundimu (eds). 2003. Media and Democracy in Africa. New Jersey:
Transaction.
Isaacman, A., P. Lalu and T. Nygren. 2005. ‘Digitization, History, and the Making of a Postcolonial
Archive of Southern African Liberation Struggles’, Africa Today 52(2): 55–77.
Lange, J. 2005. ‘Design in South Africa’, Experimenta Magazine 52: 91–106.
______. 2013. ‘United in Diversity: Design in South Africa’, Package & Print (July/August):
4–15.
Marsh, R. 1991. ‘The Information Scandal’, in R. Marsh, Famous South African Crimes. Cape Town:
Struik Timmins, pp. 82–86.
Mbeki, T. 2000. ‘Address at the Unveiling of the Coat of Arms, Kwaggafontein, 27 April 2000’.
Retrieved 1 December 2013 from http://www.dfa.gov.za/docs/speeches/2000/mbek0427.
htm
Rassool, C. and L. Witz. 1996. ‘South Africa: A World in One Country. Moments in International
Tourist Encounters with Wildlife, the Primitive and the Modern’, Cahiers d’Études Africaines
143: 335–371.
Sauthoff, M. 2004. ‘Walking the Tightrope: Comments on Graphic Design in South Africa’, Design
Issues 20(2): 34–50.
______. 2006. ‘An Alliance of Style, Situation and Content: the Design of a Typeface for South
Africa’s Constitutional Court’, Image & Text 12: 4–17.
Smith, I.R. 1988. ‘The Revolution in South African Historiography’, History Today 38(2): 8–10.
South African Government Online. ‘History of the National Orders’. Retrieved 20 July 2013
from http://www.gov.za/aboutgovt/orders/history.htm
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from http://sahistory.org.za/medu-and-culture-liberation
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______. 1911. ‘General Manager of Railways and Harbours Annual Report’. Transnet Heritage
Library, Johannesburg.
Sutherland, I. 2004. ‘Paradigm Shift: the Challenge to Graphic Design Education and Professional
Practice in Post-apartheid South Africa’, Design Issues 20(2): 51–60.
United Nations Juridical Yearbook. 1970. New York: United Nations.
Van der Merwe, H. and T. Johnson. 1997. ‘Restitution in South Africa and the Accommodation of
an Afrikaner Ethnic Minority’, The International Journal of Peace Studies 2(2): 27–48.
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Designing the South African Nation
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Van Wyk, J. 2001. ‘Bladerunner Aesthetics: Order, Disorder, and the South African Graphic Image’
(paper presented at the Icograda World Design Convergence Congress, Johannesburg, South
Africa, 12–13 September 2001).
Venter, A.J. 2013. ‘The Myth of the Honest Apartheid Government’. Retrieved 4 December 2013
from http://silentcoder.co.za/2013/12/the-myth-of-the-honest-apartheid-government/
Visser, W. 2004. ‘Trends in South African Historiography and the Present State of Historical
Research’ (paper presented at Nordic Africa Institute, Uppsala, Sweden, 23 September 2004).
Zukin, S. 1991. Landscapes of Power: from Detroit to Disney World. Berkeley: University of California
Press.
Jacques Lange is partner and creative director at Bluprint Design in Pretoria,
South Africa, a lecturer in Information Design andVisual Communication at the
University of Pretoria, design curator, member of the Mandela Poster Project
Collective and consultant to various non-profit institutions. He has published
widely on topics related to profession management, design promotion, policy
advocacy, design citizenship and contemporary South African design and design
history. Notable published works include Design Achievers: 20 Years of Nurturing
Design Leadership (SABS Design Institute 2007); IDA World Design Survey Pilot
Project: South African Findings (SABS Design Institute 2008); One Hundred Years
of Collecting (Johannesburg Art Gallery 2010); ‘The Change We Seek’, in Icograda
Education Manifesto 2011 (Icograda & Fabrica 2011); United in Diversity: Design
in South Africa (Packaging & Design 2012); as well as various policy documents
and articles for the International Council of Design (Ico-D, formaly known as
Icograda). Lange also served as editor of the trade magazine Design>Magazine
(2008–2011).
Jeanne van Eeden is Professor of Visual Culture in the Department of Visual
Arts at the University of Pretoria, South Africa. Her main fields of research
include entertainment landscapes, tourism imagery and postcards in particular,
and South African design history. She has published many chapters and articles
related to these research fields, and is co-editor of the book South Africa Visual
Culture (Van Schaik Publishers 2005) and the editor of the journal Image & Text.
This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
CH APTER
4
Resisting Global Homogeneity
but Craving Global Markets
Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice
in New Zealand
Claudia Bell
New Zealand’s relatively short post-settlement histories, limitations associated
with remoteness, and small population (4.4 million in 2013) have had
implications for the development of a design culture. To construct a New
Zealand design history into a national framework is to tell a unique story – and
to comply with populist understandings of ‘nation’ as an imagined site implying
‘unity, coherence and wholeness to those within a national space’ (Allon 2012:
387), despite critiques (Perry 2012). This is not a tale of dazzling successes in
the commercial design of a wide range of material artefacts, with our national
style recognized internationally; or one of carving a prominent global niche of
idiosyncratic designer items. It is a story of the narrative inherent in quotidian
things as they articulate a country and its history. ‘Everyday things are . . .
essential to the understanding of society and culture’ (Fallan 2010: vii). This
chapter is a cultural theorist’s contribution to efforts to understand notions of
design within New Zealand’s contemporary consumer culture.
Throughout the twentieth century import restrictions came and went
with changes of political leadership. Periods of import restrictions were
aimed at developing the local manufacturing sector, to foster employment
and contribute to Gross National Product (GNP). In a small population with
few manufacturers, the consequence was that similar items were found in
most homes. In the late twentieth century those remembered items (everyday
ceramic ware, toys and logos of ordinary consumables like groceries and shoe
polish) were considered kitsch: trivial or ‘low brow’ materiality imbued with
sentimental familiarity and nostalgia.While never noted for their sophisticated
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Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice in New Zealand
77
design, they were proudly ‘New Zealand made’. Today they have been
identified as ‘kiwiana’ and reassigned: affirmed and celebrated as encapsulations
of distinctive postcolonial nationhood. With globalization and the deluge of
mass consumer items, the recasting and revival of kiwiana into the mainstream
market can be explained as an eager search for items that convey a refreshed
version of an assertive bicultural state. These goods have been described as
‘nothing if not humble artefacts of popular culture (that) have been taken to
[possess] an added lustre, appearing simple and honest and reflective of a less
pressured society’ (Barnett and Wolfe 1989: 15) than today. ‘These items are
representative of New Zealand heritage in the popular imagination’ (PiattiFarnell 2013: 7).
Meanwhile, new designers are striving to participate in international
cosmopolitan design culture and e-commerce with the goal of creating items
that express national distinctiveness, while simultaneously earning a place on
the global design stage. Resistance to global homogeneity and determination
to deliver uniqueness are key elements of both kiwiana and of contemporary
design practice in New Zealand. Various formal government agencies and
private enterprise initiatives are fostering and supporting new design and
driving outputs. Creativity and design entrepreneurship amalgamate in
continual attempts to rebrand a confident nationalism (Bell 2012a).
In the Beginning. . .
The story starts with a precolonial Maori population who arrived in about 1200
(Fairburn 2008) – late in world terms for first people. Sufficient access to good
food allowed time for the creation of heavily decorated toanga – treasures – from
local wood, flax, feathers, bone and pounamu (jade). No account of any New
Zealand phenomenon can begin without acknowledging the narratives present
in traditional Maori artefacts: whakapapa (genealogy), Nga Te Ahi (attachment
to place), and particular events are embedded in the objects’ rich design and
decoration (Wilson 1987). The creation of items with such clear positioning
in a specific locale contrasts markedly with the current fashion for a generic
‘global style’.
Nineteenth-century Southern Ocean sealers and whalers were accustomed
to the comforts of tables, chairs and beds (Northcote-Bade 1971). They used
bone and wood to make furniture and trinkets (Wolfe 1997). New Zealand
was colonized by Britain in the mid- nineteenth century mainly for the
development of agriculture. The early settlers felled massive kauri and other
native trees to clear land for farming, using the timber to build and furnish
their homes. There was no special style; the term colonial ‘simply denotes the
furniture made and used by colonists’ (Northcote-Bade 1971:12). The sheer
remoteness from useful resources called upon settlers to apply design skills
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to solve the practical problems of everyday survival. The notion of ‘making
something out of nothing’ was quickly established (Bell and Neill 2014).
In the mid-1930s the New Zealand government began to impose
import restrictions, banning introduced factory-made goods, to encourage
local manufacturing. The small populace – around 1.5 million at that time –
impeded the capacity to sustain an extensive sector ‘of highly specialized and
expert professionals to produce popular and high culture’ (Fairburn 2008: 44).
The limited availability of goods from elsewhere meant the ability to innovate
was valued. Local businesses, often originally back-shed enterprises, created
everyday items. Some of these later grew into larger companies that eventually
dominated the New Zealand manufacturing sector, such as Crown Lynn
ceramics (Monk 2006; Bell 2012), and Fisher & Paykel, makers of household
whiteware. With their modest beginnings founded by imagination and
innovation, and a perceived feasible market niche, these and other enterprises
became the mainstay of the quotidian products still recognized in New Zealand
as intrinsic to the culture. Some may argue, with historiographical reflexivity,
that such unassuming beginnings are a globally familiar story; that it is difficult
to make a case for New Zealand ‘exceptionalism’ (Fairburn 2008). Australia,
for example, produces a parallel history of design values (Jackson 2006).
Nevertheless, New Zealand’s national mythologies rejoice in local innovation
in geographic isolation.
New merchandise based on or decorated with old kiwiana imagery
and design is currently saturating the home wares, design accessories and
casual clothing markets. For example, original Crown Lynn ceramics are
widely collected; new reproductions, and images of original wares as graphic
embellishment, abound. Vintage roadside signage, company logos and
handwritten menus and recipes have been snapped up, along with anything
else that represents New Zealand natural or cultural heritage: native flora and
fauna, local architecture (state houses, wooden villas). These objects convey a
visual narrative, a reconfiguration of the historic within the contemporary, as
a new genre of representation. The old goods and meanings are not forgotten:
they have been resurrected and repositioned, and play a prominent part in
national identity discourse.
Myths of National Character
The successful performance of those small manufacturing businesses reiterated
particular notions in national mythologies. A key term in local lexicon is
‘Number 8 wire mentality’ which refers to any inventive solution achieved
using non-traditional approaches and materials. Number 8 wire, a thickness
measurement on the British Standard wire gauge, was a staple item in a rural
society, its strength and flexibility lending itself to numerous ad hoc tasks.While
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Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice in New Zealand
79
actual Number 8 wire is now 40mm gauge in the metric system, the concept
of problem solving through the ingenious use of Number 8 wire is part of the
national mythology that praises the ‘can do’ ethic of citizens. Another well-worn
term is ‘kiwi ingenuity’ or ’good old kiwi ingenuity’, a ‘self-awarded belief in
our own resourcefulness, especially with mechanical objects’ (McGill 1989: 57).
‘Kiwi ingenuity’ is still applied to any story of successful local invention and
manufacturing, especially those self-financed projects that begin very modestly,
then develop into something larger, even global.
DIY (do it yourself) also has powerful resonance in national myths.Without
the availability of specific expertise or materials for certain tasks it was normal
for individuals to problem-solve for themselves – using that Number 8 wire
mentality, of course.The results of such exertions were traditionally summed up
by ‘she’ll be right!’, a confident exclamation that the problem was solved. The
result, however adroit, would be pronounced ‘not bad, eh!’ These values were
associated principally with masculinity. Such attitudes meant that, for example,
creating a business from a few improbable resources (saved because they might
‘come in handy’ one day) and almost no capital was an achievable proposition.
These actions proved to the practitioners that all problems are better solved by
figuring out what actually works, than by applying a cerebral theory (Bell and
Neill 2014).
These qualities clearly stood the country in good stead as it developed
a successful agricultural economy. They were also useful attributes for local
designers aiming their products at the (small) exclusive end of the local
market. A 2006 account of New Zealand design ‘legends’ constantly, and sadly,
reiterates the obscurity of the individual designers; that New Zealand was an
environment where designers and craftspeople ‘struggled to convince New
Zealanders of the validity and importance of their creative endeavours’ (LloydJenkins 2006: 8). Many of them continued to generate original items ‘in spite
of widespread indifference and ignorance of their work’ (ibid: 146). Perhaps
strategies to develop a design culture in New Zealand in the new century, to
achieve economic ends, might grant designers a new level of recognition for
their contribution to the culture? (Elizabeth 2006).
The Struggle to Create a Contemporary Design Niche
With late twentieth-century globalization and new consumer needs, New
Zealand’s need for competitive capability-building strategies in the design of
value-added products, services and brands was being challenged. Perhaps the
well-established national stereotype could be mobilized to tell, through new
products, the tale of ‘our’ uniqueness and ‘our’ common goals (Elizabeth 2006).
In her campaign speech prior to winning the 1999 election and becoming
Prime Minister, Helen Clark proclaimed ‘we must unleash the creativity of our
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scientists, researchers, designers and innovators in the search for new products
that we can sell to the world for good prices’ (New Zealand Labour Party Press
Release, 31 October 1999).
In the 1950s New Zealand’s GDP was sixty per cent above the average
for the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD)
countries, and ranked fourth for economic competitiveness (after Switzerland,
Canada and Luxemburg) (Yap 2011). Many of the children who grew up in that
era – today’s ageing baby boomer population – sentimentally recall the postwar period as an idyllic, innocent time (Bell 1996). The economy was buoyant,
New Zealand boasted a generous social welfare system, home ownership rates
were high, race relations were claimed by the dominant pakeha (white) group to
be positive, and immigrants were mainly from the UK and Pacific islands. New
Zealand defined itself not by importance or power on the global stage, but by
an asserted egalitarianism – albeit inherently sexist and racist (Bell 1996) – and
pride in ‘their way of life’ (Sinclair 1986: 88).
By 2009 this country had slipped to 22nd of the 30 OECD countries for
GDP, rising to 19th in 2012. Manufactured goods for export are low on the
list of key drivers of the New Zealand economy. After primary production
(land based products) and tourism, manufacturing even for the home market is
severely limited by high labour, transport and stock-holding costs, and by the
competition of significantly cheaper imported goods. A high exchange rate and
the tax system encourage investment in land and buildings over investment in
productive activity. The pivotal impact of national economic policies, market
conditions and societal conditions are all significant. The national story and
local circumstances remain inescapable in this ‘global age’.
The local manufacturing sector in New Zealand is characterized by
many small companies in specialized industries. Some are lauded for their
international success, creating diverse products such as Ecostore cleaning
products, New Zealand Natural Premium Ice-cream, Fitzroy Superyachts,
Icebreaker merino sportswear, 42 Below Pure Vodka and Kathmandu outdoor
clothing and equipment. The last two, businesses with small local beginnings,
were so successful globally that they were eventually bought by international
conglomerates. New Zealand is rated 9th of the OECD countries for direct
foreign investment.This is despite public opinion that fears the loss of promising
companies and technologies, and loss of control of natural resources to offshore
owners (Fabling and Sanderon 2014). ‘Brands are born somewhere. Companies
are born somewhere’ (Bernstein, cited by Pike 2011: 7). The problem is how
to make that somewhere here? Over the past decade that tradable sector has
declined (N. Z. Manufacturers and Exporters Association 2014, www.nzmea.
org.nz/Events.aspx). In short, economic and market forces are challenging
opponents to fledgling designers.
In 1999 the Labour government began its nine-year leadership. As reflected
in the quotation above, the new Prime Minister took on board the British
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Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice in New Zealand
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‘Cool Britannia’ project, with the new Heart of the Nation venture aiming
at developing new products and creating fresh markets. Businesses trying to
cultivate offshore markets had to sell not just themselves, but (the capabilities
of) the New Zealand economy and brand ‘New Zealand’ (Molloy and Larner
2013). In the drive for export diversity, innovative design was a potential weapon
for wealth creation, a means of arresting the economic downturn. International
evidence supported this potential. For example, the Scandinavian countries,
all similar in population size to New Zealand, have used design as a tool for
profitability, innovation and business competiveness. However, their proximity
to large markets is advantageous (Yap 2011).
Surely, here in the remote southern ocean, brilliant design could overcome
the tyranny of geography (Elizabeth 2006)? The Heart of Nation and allied
projects have tried to reverse this, suggesting that isolation must give rise
to fresh design approaches. Surely this would achieve an ‘exceptionalism’
(Fairburn 2008), with corresponding economic benefits. This notion ignores
the inescapable influence of global media on local designers and consumers.
Government policy initiatives have aimed at developing the ‘cultural sector’,
both for revenue and for national branding (Molloy and Larner 2013).The goal
has been to coax those well-established national values of inventiveness into a
more elite realm. The government-appointed Design Taskforce established in
2002 concentrated ‘on building design-driven culture and capability within
companies . . . The Taskforce advised upskilling executives in the strategic
application and management of design within their business’ (Smythe 2011:
354). In 2003 the Design Taskforce produced a document, Success by Design,
proposing designers as the (new) key to economic success and saviours of
the homeland (albeit in conjunction with business leaders) (Elizabeth 2006).
Various reports and conferences aimed to develop the design sector as a tool to
diversify the New Zealand export economy, usually trying to work top down,
from senior executives, with designers resting on or near the bottom rung.
Was this the time to write contemporary design into New Zealand’s national
story? The fashion industry became particularly buoyant, rapidly expanding
from a small disconnected group selling to an inner-city urban clientele in
2000, to a large complex industry serving international markets. Along with
the film industry, surely it could ‘revamp New Zealand’s international image . . .
rebranding New Zealand as a talented nation’ (Larner, Molloy and Goodrum
2007: 381). Art and design schools proliferated; private providers became a new
sector, alongside established universities and polytechnics.While many graduates
have made great contributions to the local and international film and digital
media industries, and numerous new products enhance local consumers’ lives,
efforts to net accolades for global design are ongoing. New Zealand has the
highest tertiary brain-drain rate of any OECD country (Gibson and McKenzie
2012). The migration of the talented to better-paying work environments has
not helped this sector nationally.
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The 2007 recession made a deep impact, forcing previously successful
retailers and manufactures of locally-made designer goods to close. In the
fashion sector the survivors manufactured most of their garments offshore.
South East Asian countries provide cheap labour to manufacture a vast array of
consumer goods, including items designed here.
It is not possible to provide data about the economic contribution of the
creative industries in New Zealand. Any attempt to map the fiscal state of this
sector, for instance via data from Statistics New Zealand, is stymied. Because
the numbers of participants is so small, and therefore potentially identifiable
in any table of figures (for instance regarding income generated), that data
is confidential to Statistics New Zealand, or in other words unavailable to
researchers. However, there is ample material to demonstrate economic
vulnerability, compared with other OECD countries (Yap 2011). Design
policies of the past decade have failed to push economic performance back into
the top half of OECD countries. Daniel Miller writes, ‘it is clear that one of the
key struggles of modern life is to retain both a sense of authentic locality . . . and
yet also lay claims to a cosmopolitanism that at some level may evoke rights to a
global status’ (Miller 1998: 19). In New Zealand that struggle is a persistent one.
Example: The Home Furniture Contest
A 1981 study found that household furniture items are often ‘special objects
in the home’, the owners’ most cherished possessions. The authors concluded
that relationships with objects contribute to the cultivation of a sense of self
(Csikszentmihalyi and Rochberg-Halton 2010). The selection of items used to
create a personal comfort zone at home is driven by availability, along with the
circumstances and aspirations of the purchaser.
Local markets for household furniture and accessories are utilized
here, briefly, to illustrate the effects of some of the issues outlined above.
Cosmopolitanism is perceived as sophistication: international physical mobility
is now central to the lifestyle of many local consumers (Cohen, Duncan and
Thulemark 2013). For the less mobile, travel remains a strong aspiration.
Substantiations of mobility capital or objects that represent travel fantasies are
now de rigueur in New Zealand middle-class domestic interiors. Such items
are happily mixed with goods that extoll explicit localism.
The 2007 global economic downturn’s collision with the strong New
Zealand dollar meant that imported goods, already desirable, became far
cheaper than items made here. A casual survey of merchandise available shows
that copies of design classics are now readily available and affordable. That the
original items feature constantly in international design magazines assures
the purchaser – even of the fakes – of their aesthetic desirability and cultural
cache. Such items are often priced under $NZ100 (about 59 Euros, $US50, or
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Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice in New Zealand
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50 British pounds). A local manufacturer of ‘designer’ goods has no possibility
of displaying similar price-tags. New Zealand has very high costs for rent,
utilities, labour, materials and transport, and fifteen per cent Goods and Services
Tax (GST) on every transaction. Besides, a cheap price implies cheap goods,
a designer told me, assuring me that lower sales are one cost of maintaining a
place in the appropriate elite realm for such objects (Anonymous 1 2014).
Even prosaic mass produced chain store furniture, made either in New
Zealand, Indonesia or China, and often with generous periods of interest-free
payment, can barely compete. A particular retailer of both Italian and New
Zealand up-market furniture, the latter slightly more expensive, told me that
the cost of the Italian goods was in the design; the cost of the New Zealand
goods was in the making. She implied a higher cultural capital in owning the
Italian goods: ‘people love the status of Italian design’ (Anonymous 2 2014).
An interesting new enterprise, Rekindle, makes furniture using waste,
including from the 2011 Christchurch earthquake. Their profile combines
environmental and social issues (Fuentes 2012), an example of explicit
sustainability. This non-profit enterprise creates something positive from an
extraordinarily challenging event. Obviously the products have significant
souvenir value, as they convey a major story about recent New Zealand history,
and about ingenuity. Allegorically, they commemorate a natural disaster in
which 181 people died, while symbolizing rebirth through the recasting of
damaged materials. None of the furniture is available for less than $NZ300, the
cost of a simple square-sided stool. Similar-looking items made from ‘distressed’
recycled timber imported from Java cost significantly less. In mainstream
culture there is little significant cultural capital in buying and displaying New
Zealand made goods, even as singular as Rekindle’s, in the home or office.This
is unhelpful to the development of a potential New Zealand design industry.
New shops dedicated to local design do appear, but none has been notable
for its longevity. The Clever Design Store (formerly Cleverbastards) website
(www.thecleverdesignstore.com) offers diverse goods by New Zealand
designers. It was founded in 2008 to showcase contemporary household
products, jewellery, t-shirts, toys and handbags. The director acknowledged
its limitations, including ‘the lack of physical contact between customer
and product. Designer products that have a high level of craftsmanship still
provoke a desire to touch . . . That cannot be replaced entirely’ (Her Business
Magazine, http://www.herbusinessmagazine.com/Lifestyle/Art++Design/
Case+study+Clever+Bastards.html). The site is a platform for over a dozen
designers, mostly producing items for the home. Many of these goods include
kiwiana references in their design (Fig. 4.2).
Another competitor for the New Zealand purchasing dollar – and ‘style’ –
is Trade Me, the wildly popular online shopping site. There are constantly over
2 million live auctions. I just checked: today there are over 9,000 chairs for sale,
ranging in price from $1 to ‘buy now’ for $NZ5000. Householders selling their
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Figure 4.1 Chris Johnson’s Imprint Stool, available through web outlet The Clever
Design Store and from Yoyo Furniture, a Wellington shop dedicated to New Zealand
design. Photo courtesy of Chris Johnson.
Figure 4.2 Work in process: a rug designed by Bing Dawe being handcrafted from
wool at Dilana’s Christchurch studio. Completed rugs: on the wall Solo by John
Reynolds; on the floor Clematis by Tim Main, and Meccano by John Lyall. Photo
courtesy of Dilana.
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Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice in New Zealand
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used goods do not have the overheads of a retail business, or tax, so prices can
be extremely cheap.The purchaser may delight in having discovered something
‘vintage’.
There is also a craze, stimulated by television home make-over shows, to
‘upcycle’.This process adds ‘boho’ or ‘industrial’ chic to interiors, using items that
might otherwise be discarded. This new market niche is not necessarily driven
by ecological motives, but perhaps offers a means of creative self-expression,
economy and of owning something unique (Nalewajek and Macik 2013). The
Figure 4.3 Moa Room, Paris. Photo courtesy of Moa Room.
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irregularity of components, whilst making each item exclusive, makes it harder
to commercialize. Design magazines support the trend as taste-makers. One
writer advises that ‘it is now eco-friendly and cool to incorporate waste into
design’ (Chan 2012: 46). The practice falls into the category of labour intensive
handicrafts (Ordonez and Rahe 2012). Kiwiana or Maoriana references or
decoration are often co-opted to correspond with current fashion.
Offshore, the Moa Room in Paris promotes and distributes the work of
New Zealand designers to Europe. Products include Dilana artist-designed
floor rugs handcrafted from New Zealand wool, various furnishings and
accessories and lighting and furniture design by David Trubridge (Fig. 4.4), the
‘only New Zealand designer . . . to achieve a global presence’ (McCall 2014:
23). The Moa Room director says that when he started in 2006 he learnt an
important lesson about European perceptions of New Zealand: ‘They knew
so little that we might as well have been Patagonia’. Sporting success, sheep
and the 100% PURE campaign have defined New Zealand in Europe to date’
(Robert 2011). Other attempts by various companies to market New Zealand
design in dedicated retail spaces in New York, London and elsewhere have been
short-lived (Smythe 2011).
Maoriana
‘Maoriland’, a direct reference to local indigenous people, was an early
twentieth-century tourism brand identifier for New Zealand. Images of Maori
were widely incorporated in promotional material, such as posters and postcards
(Alsop and Stewart 2013). ‘Maoriana’ embraces any popular cultural items that
incorporate images and symbols from traditional Maori culture. Maori imagery
has long been popular on souvenirs for the tourist trade. Some early twentiethcentury grocery items depicted Maori on their labels (Alsop and Stewart
2013). Today Maori imagery has been appropriated into commercial items
to create something of a bicultural pastiche. Maoriana delivers a prescription
for designers and makers to explore the opportunities of new products. The
consumer landscape, physical, metaphorical and symbolic, Goodrum explains,
is a key location in the construction of meaningful identities. New fashionable
outputs from the local creative industries offer ‘a rich seam from which to mine
a range of debates over processes self-signification and cultural construction of
identity’ (Goodrum 2005: 23–25).
Most New Zealanders are aware of the long-standing notion that for any
cultural image and design to be Maori, it should incorporate a Maori referent,
and should be created by a Maori artist (Waaka 2007). But this stance is by
no means unanimous. Maori motifs are included across genres by non-Maori,
including the mass manufacture of ‘Maori’ souvenirs in Chinese and Taiwanese
factories. Efforts to enforce or monitor this, in order to empower Maori artists
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Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice in New Zealand
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Figure 4.4 Lights by David Trubridge. Photo Courtesy of David Trubridge Design.
and craftspeople, have been controversial and ineffective (O’Connor 2004). In
a study focusing on the use of Maori imagery in merchandise, one design
magazine editor suggested that ‘it is a really promising vehicle for a kind of
New Zealand nationalistic expression that properly embraces biculturalism’
(Bell 2012a: 281).
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The use of Maori elements is widely apparent on new consumer goods,
decorative home wares, clothing and accessories in particular. Merchandise in
expensive shops or ‘showcase’ pieces in the shops at major museums, as well
as the cheapest items in ubiquitous $2 shops, draws heavily on New Zealand
Maori and kiwiana motifs. The imagery has a strong presence in the fine arts,
and even in bodily inscriptions: kiwiana and Maoriana tattoos have become the
new ink fashion for both locals and tourists. The labels Esther Diamond and
Figure 4.5 Aroha (love) baby blanket, appliqued recycled wool, featuring a tiki and
piwakawaka (fantails) by Rona Osborne for Native Agent. Photo courtesy of Rona
Osborne.
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Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice in New Zealand
89
Native Agent (www.nativeagent.co.nz) were perhaps the first two to take Maori
imagery into new textiles, both companies working with well-known local
Maori and Pakeha artists to embellish – and therefore define – their products.
Traditional Maori tiki images turn up recast as everything from clocks
(TikiToki – get it?), designs on tote bags, beach towels, home wares, furniture and
clothing. This symbolic biculturalism indicates appeasement in the discourse of
national unity, a situation not borne out politically. The artists and craftspeople,
Maori and Pakeha, making these items, have found a market niche in which
to place their artefactual representations of nation. Through this work they
are dislodging the polarization of local ethnic discourse between conservative
assimilationist and bicultural ‘politically correct’ positions (Bell 2006). They
may be described as revisionists re-stating the identity of a nation. The items
they create contribute to the bi-cultural economy. This encompasses not just
design, production, circulation and sales, but also ‘a highly-localized aesthetic
restyling of the everyday life of the collective of consumers’ (Bell 2012a: 284).
This aesthetic is quintessentially local, challenging the deluge of homogenous
goods now flooding the New Zealand market. Maori, Pakeha, new immigrants,
the gift market to New Zealanders residing overseas, and international tourists
are keen consumers of this merchandise. Political interrogators may challenge
the use of Maori design by (often) non-Maori makers, but this appears to be
no deterrent to buyers. That objects with Maori decoration have become so
mainstream is testament to a (re)valuing of the local, a gleeful expression of
cultural distinction.
Conclusion: Creating and Consuming Identity
Kiwiana and Maoriana show that mundane design is a nexus of New Zealand
cultural identity. As Lyall observes, ‘depictions of New Zealand (within New
Zealand) depend on recognition, which comes about by the replaying over and
again of particular images and ideas about what should visually represent us’
(Lyall 2004: 107).
Design culture is not necessarily elite, but everyday (Fallan 2010). Plainly,
the local creative industries, and the purchasers of their products, are playing
a substantial role in the maintenance and expression of national identity. The
recasting of traditional vernacular kiwiana into the everyday retail sector has
vastly expanded cultural representation. Consumption of the new merchandise
reiterates a shared understanding of nationhood. In this way positive, populist
ideas of nation are sustained and affirmed. Creating designs that accentuate
localism reiterates the maker’s sense of place, showcasing both personal and
national identity. This is a site for negotiation of ‘the large scale structures of
political economy and the small scale (but also social) histories of intimate life’
(Highmore 2002: 296).
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This chapter builds on the understanding that practices of both
construction and consumption are intensely cultural (Bourdieu 1984). It
illustrates the decisive impact of national economics, market conditions and
societal character on design practice. Subscription to the ideas embedded
in the objects demonstrates that any notion of a superseded nation state is
debunked. Embedded in these items are selective historical narratives, symbols
of a banal nationalism (Billig 1995) that by its global preponderance is by
no means redundant. In these objects creativity, consumption and nationality
intersect. Kiwiana and Maoriana are sites referring to particular historical,
geographical and political foundations which have moulded and continue to
mould citizens’ subjectivities.
According to Spoonley (2005), a majority sense of group self-identity has
taken a long time to develop in New Zealand. Political and legal strategies
towards reconciliation between the different groups are a feature of postcolonial
culture in New Zealand. Hence these new kiwiana and Maoriana material
items might be considered as artefactual declarations of a new postcolonial
era, a confident form of identity assertion. The construction of idiosyncratic
features of ‘Kiwi culture’ is a convenient circumvention of historic tensions, a
veiling of internal stresses, and an identifiable part of the drive of a decolonized
nation to create an identity (During 2005). The enthusiastic persistence of the
imagery seems to fulfil the need for a secure point of reference, marking national
difference in the face of the risk of anonymity in contemporary postmodern
society (Kessous and Roux 2008). Kiwiana and Maoriana deliver a distinctive
semiotic underpinning of a nation’s traditional myths.
This exploration of contemporary design in New Zealand, and its place in
the national narrative, shows, for everyday consumers, a prioritizing of vocabularies of local distinction, over attempts at joining a global design culture.
Kiwiana and Maoriana are too highly localized to compete with, for example,
Italian and Scandinavian design products. That is the aspiration of the successive new ‘hot’ designers featured in glossy magazines and weekend newspaper
supplements. Designers are absent from the national narrative, compared with,
for instance, successful international sports people, film industry achievers or
business entrepreneurs. There is ongoing frustration at the limitations to trying
to create new global design brands (Smythe 2011;Yap 2011).
Rather than resist a reiteration of national history in favour of a sophisticated, albeit homogenous, global gaze, the geo-political straitjacket of the
nation state remains intact, with occasional cheerful restyling. The continuing
incorporation of kiwiana and Maoriana into everyday material culture does
nothing to address the desperate search for new export markets to fulfil, or the
goal of developing a strong design culture. Nevertheless, as powerful expressions
of localism in the early twenty-first century, their place in the narrative of historic style is assured. Populist attitudes to materiality which explicitly represents
the nation have undoubtedly advanced to a new phase.
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Kiwiana and Contemporary Design Practice in New Zealand
91
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Firms’, New Zealand Economic Papers 48(1): 1–20.
Fairburn, M. 2008. ‘Is There a Case for New Zealand Exceptionalism?’, Thesis Eleven 92(1):
29–42.
Fallan, K. 2010. Design History: Understanding Theory and Method. Oxford: Berg.
Fuentes, C. 2012. Retailing Sustainability: Enacting Responsible Consumers. Research Report from
Lund University, Department of Service Management. Retrieved 11 August 2014 from
http://lup.lub.lu.se/luur/download?func=downloadFile&recordOId=3043312&file
OId=3043327
Gibson, J. and D. McKenzie. 2012. ‘The Economic Consequences of Brain Drain of the Best and
Brightest: Microeconomic Evidence from Five Countries’, The Economic Journal 122 (560):
339–375.
Goodrum, A. 2005. The National Fabric: Fashion, Britishness, Globalisation. Oxford: Berg.
Highmore, B. (ed.). 2002. The Everyday Life Reader. London: Routledge.
Jackson, S. 2006. ‘Sacred Objects: Australian Design and National Celebrations’, Journal of Design
History 19(3): 249–255.
Kessous, A. and E. Roux. 2008. ‘A Semiotic Analysis of Nostalgia as a Connection to the Past’,
Qualitative Market Research: An International Journal 11(2): 192–212.
Larner, W., M. Molloy and A. Goodrum. 2007. ‘Globalization, Cultural Economy, and Not-SoGlobal Cities: the New Zealand Designer Fashion Industry’, Environment and Planning 25(3):
380–400.
Lloyd Jenkins, D. 2006. 40 Legends of New Zealand Design. Auckland: Godwit.
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Lyall, J. 2004. ‘Post Empire: A Philatelic Ecology’, in C. Bell and S. Matthewman (eds), Cultural
Studies in Aotearoa New Zealand: Identity, Space, and Place. Melbourne: Oxford University
Press, pp. 103–118.
McCall, C. 2014. ‘The French Connection’, Viva,The New Zealand Herald, 28 May 2014, 22–23.
McGill, D. 1989.The Dinkum Kiwi Dictionary. Lower Hutt: Mills Publications.
Miller, D. 1998. Material Cultures: Why Some Things Matter. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.
Molloy, M. and W. Larner. 2013. Fashioning Globalisation: New Zealand Design, Working Women and
the Cultural Economy. Oxford: Wiley-Blackwell.
Monk,V.R. 2006. Crown Lynn: A New Zealand Icon. Auckland: Penguin Books.
Nalewajek, M. and R. Macik, 2013. ‘Exploration of Consumers’ Behaviours Connected with
Product Reuse’. Proceedings of 2013 International Conference on Technology Innovation and
Industrial Management, 29–31 May, Thailand. Retrieved from www.toknowpress.net/
ISBN/978-961-6914-07-9/.
Northcote-Bade, S., 1971. Colonial Furniture in New Zealand. Wellington: A.H. and A.W. Reed.
O’Connor, B. 2004. ‘The Dilemma of Souvenirs’, in C. Bell and S. Matthewman (eds), Cultural
Studies in Aotearoa New Zealand: Identity, Space, and Place. Melbourne: Oxford University
Press, pp. 161–174.
Ordonez, M.I. and U. Rahe. 2012. ‘How Design Relates to Waste. A Categorization of Concrete
Examples’, in Proceedings of the17th International Conference Sustainable Innovation. Bonn,
Germany, 29–30 October.
Perry, N. 2012. ‘Australian and New Zealand Cultural Studies: The Antipathies and Ambiguities’,
in B.M.Z. Cohen (ed.), Being Cultural. Auckland: University of Auckland Press, pp. 129–146.
Piatti-Farnell, L. 2013. ‘Sure to Rise: Reading the Edmonds Cookery Book as a Popular Icon’,
TEXT: Journal of Writing and Writing Courses 17(2). Retrieved 11 August 2014 from http://
www.textjournal.com.au/speciss/issue24/PiattiFarnell.pdf
Pike, A. 2011. Brands and Branding Geographies. Cheltenham: Edward Elgar Publishing.
Robert, D. 2011.‘Moaroom Brings Kiwi Design to the French Masses’, Idealogue:The Ideas Business.
Retrieved 11 August 2014 from http://www.idealog.co.nz/magazine/32/french-collection
Sinclair, K. 1986. A Destiny Part: New Zealand’s Search for National identity. Wellington: Allan &
Unwin and Port Nicholson Press.
Smythe. M. 2011. New Zealand By Design: A History Of New Zealand Product Design. Auckland:
RHNZ Godwit.
Spoonley, P. 2005. ‘Becoming Pakeha: Majority Group Identity in a Globalizing World’, in
R. Patman and C. Rudd (eds), Sovereignty Under Siege: Globalization and New Zealand.
Aldershot: Ashgate, pp. 97–110.
Waaka, P. 2007. ‘Hei tiki and Issues of Representation within Contemporary Maori Arts’, MAI
Review, 1, Intern Research Report. Retrieved 11 August 2014 from http://ojs.review.mai.
ac.nz/index.php/MR/article/viewFile/38/38
Wilson, J. (ed.). 1987. From the Beginning:The Archaeology of the Maori. Auckland: Penguin Books.
Wolfe, R. 1997. All Our Own Work. Auckland: Penguin Books.
Yap, L. 2011. ‘New Zealand’s Design Policy Diagnosis, Prognosis and Strategic Management’, in
Design Management:Towards a New Era of Innovation. Proceedings of the International Design
Management Symposium. Hong Kong, 3–5 December.
Claudia Bell is a Senior Lecturer in Sociology at the University of Auckland,
New Zealand. Her research interests include the sociology of art, design and
popular culture. Recent publications include ‘Collectors as Guardians of
National Artifacts’, Home Cultures (2013) and ‘Not Really Beautiful, but Iconic:
New Zealand’s Crown Lynn Ceramics’, Journal of Design History (2012).
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CH APTER
5
Creativity within a
Geographical-National Framework
From Modern Japanese Design to Pevsner’s
Art Geography
Ariyuki Kondo
The idea of the national character of a nation’s art and design, and the stressing
of the validity of a geographical-national framework in the historiography
of art and design have been denigrated and disparaged for some time. This is
partly due to the fact that such an idea of and approach to art/design historical
enquiry actually held a racialist complexion before and during World War II
in many countries, and inevitably reminds us of racist nationalism in action.
However, should the validity of such an art/design historical approach and
interest be completely denied or considered taboo because of its association
with past nationalism and racialism?
Living as we do in a rapidly globalizing age, an age in which, in
various countries, multi-racial communities are appearing and yet antagonizing each other within particular geographical-national frameworks, there
can be no better time than now to direct our attention toward how people
have acted under certain cultural, social and political circumstances within
such frameworks. Taking the development of modern Japanese design in the
Meiji era (1868 to 1912) as a concrete example, this chapter argues that it
is still, even in today’s cosmopolitan society, entirely appropriate to take a
serious look at a geographical-national framework as a means of exploring
the captivating world of human creativity in art, architecture and design,
and it can also be a convincingly valid approach for the historiography of
art and design.
Notes for this section begin on page 106.
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Westernization of Japan in the Meiji Era
The notion of national character strongly attracted the attention of Japanese
architects and designers in the period from the 1860s to the first decade of the
twentieth century. This was an ambivalent, intuitive reaction to the ongoing
Westernization of their homeland. In the Meiji era in particular,Westernization
was perceived as the only effective way of raising the standards of Japanese
architecture and design in order to reach contemporary global standards set
by the dominant world powers. Following the decision of the central government in Japan in 1859 to open Japan to foreign trade and diplomatic relations,
mainly with Western superpowers such as the USA, Britain, the Netherlands
and France, Japan entered a new era of Westernization in which globalization
of technology, industry and design was aggressively pursued by both the public
and private sectors. Accordingly, underscoring the imminent need to catch up
to the technological level of the Western world, Western building technology
and architectural styles attracted wide interest and rapidly spread throughout
Japan. Such technology and Westernized styles of architecture were first introduced in military buildings, then in a number of government-operated public
‘role-model’ factories. The designs were made by foreign engineers who had
been invited to Japan by the central government. Many of the state-owned,
state-operated factories were constructed in the 1860s and early 1870s: one
of these was the Tomioka Silk Mill (1872) in Tomioka, Gunma (registered as
a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2014), designed by the French engineer
Auguste Bastien, under the supervision of fellow French engineer Paul Brunat.
Before long, an extremely eccentric application of Western design was to
be found in Gi-Yoˉ fuˉ architecture: quasi-Western-style architecture, an eclectic
architectural style creatively combining imported Western elements with
traditional Japanese construction techniques and decoration. Such architecture
was designed by master carpenters, deeply versed in traditional building
techniques peculiar to Japan, whose lack of formal training and knowledge
of genuine Western-style architecture freed them to be bold in intermingling
Japanese and Western elements. Such a practice reminds one of Samuel Pepys
Cockerell’s Neo-Mughal design for Sezincote House in Gloucestershire,
England (1805–1812), in which elements from Indian architecture were
combined ostentatiously in a Neoclassical style.
Fearless and quirky interpretation of Western-style architecture started to
appear in Japan in the latter half of the 1860s and reached its peak in the
1870s. Among such masterpieces of Japanized Western design are the Tokyo
Tsukiji Hotel for Foreign Travelers in Tsukiji, Tokyo (1868); the Mitsui-gumi
House (subsequently the First National Bank) at Kaiun Bridge in Nihonbashikabutochoˉ, Tokyo (1872) (Fig. 5.1); the Mitsui-gumi House in Surugachoˉ,
Tokyo (1874); Kaichi Gakko Primary School in Matsumoto, Nagano (1873);
and the Tsuruoka Police Station in Tsuruoka, Yamagata (1884). Whilst such
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From Modern Japanese Design to Pevsner’s Art Geography
95
Figure 5.1 Kisuke Shimizu II, Mitsui-gumi House at Kaiun Bridge, Tokyo, Japan
(1872). Photo courtesy of Architectural Institute of Japan, Tokyo, Japan.
interpretations of Western architecture were earnestly pursued and resulted
in a series of rather eccentric examples of eclecticism in provincial cities,
authentically Western architecture was designed in the capital city of Tokyo
and other large cities by foreign technical advisors to the government, amongst
whom were Josiah Conder from Britain, Jean Giovanni Vincenzo Cappelletti
from Italy, and Hermann Ende and Wilhelm Böckmann, both from Germany
– ta and Sekino 1976: 184–186).
(Itoˉ, O
Conder contributed most to the development of modern Japanese
architecture. He was born in 1852 in London, and, following his study at the
University of London, worked for the famed Gothic revivalist William Burges.
In 1877, when he was twenty-four years old, he was invited by the Japanese
government to be one of its foreign technical advisors, and in that capacity
taught architecture at the Imperial College of Engineering in Tokyo.
Tatsuno in London and the Issue of National Style
Josiah Conder’s first students graduated from the Imperial College of
Engineering in 1879. Amongst them was Kingo Tatsuno, who was sent to
Britain the following year as a government-sponsored student. In London,
while studying architecture at the University of London, Tatsuno worked
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Ariyuki Kondo
for the architectural firm of Conder’s former employer, Burges, a practicing
architect, who undertook the task of teaching Tatsuno, albeit for a short period.
Whilst studying in Britain, Tatsuno is said to have been very open, sociable and
energetic, and having an avid desire to absorb both the spirit and principles, as
well as the technical design and construction skills, of the latest styles of Western
architecture (Azuma 2002: 191–210).
What most captured Tatsuno’s attention while he was studying in Britain
seems to have been the issue of national style. In Britain, by the late nineteenth
century, the matter of a style emblematic of Imperial Britain had long been
widely discussed and debated. As Francis Goodwin noted, when the plan for
rebuilding the Houses of Parliament in either a Gothic or Elizabethan style
was announced in the mid-1830s, ‘for civil purposes, public or private, the
town hall, exchange or senate-house; the Greek, Roman or Italian styles are
universally admitted to be applicable’ (Clark 1950: 153); yet there were also
people who believed that ‘Gothic was essentially an English style’ and therefore
‘the national style’ (Clark 1950: 154). By the late 1860s, Gothic, which had
originally emerged in northern France in the twelfth century, had come to be
widely considered to be the national style of Britain, and this notion led to the
triumph of Victorian Gothic Revivalism. Unlike the parliamentary competition
in the mid-1830s, in which the style of the buildings was to be, according to
guidelines set by the Select Committee, ‘either Gothic or Elizabethan style’
(House of Commons 1835: 4), there were no specific instructions favouring any
particular style in the designated competition for the Royal Courts of Justice
held in 1866–1867. Yet William Burges and ten other renowned architects
who had been invited to compete all used the same style: Gothic. The stylistic
uniformity of the submitted competition designs suggests that, by that time,
Gothic had been fully recognized as the national style of Britain, emblematic
of the national character.
Among Tatsuno’s various perceptions whilst in Britain was his observation
that, in the course of the ‘battle of styles’ between Neoclassical and Gothic,
architects of that time were keen to define a style emblematic of the national
character, whilst the origin and authenticity of the style were not considered
important. Upon his return to Japan, Tatsuno was appointed Professor of
Architecture at the Imperial College of Engineering, succeeding his former
supervisor, Conder, and in the first examination he gave to students in 1885
he asked them to explain what elements should influence the formation of a
national (Japanese) architectural style, a question almost identical to one on his
first examination at the University of London on 21 June 1880 (Azuma 2002:
198–200).1 Today Tatsuno is not necessarily considered a theoretical architect,
yet his interest in the issue of national style in architecture demonstrates how
straightforwardly the British emphasis on the search for a national style, as a
cultural entity, had influenced his own approach toward the development of
Japanese architecture.
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From Modern Japanese Design to Pevsner’s Art Geography
97
The 1910 Debate: Japanese National Character as Expressed
in Architecture
Throughout the Meiji era, government-trained architects like Tatsuno were
given a number of splendid opportunities to execute large-scale enterprises of
national importance. In the course of advancing Westernization in Japan, the
Japanese government decided to take active steps to bring foreign influence
and Western style into the Japanese architectural scene: thus, a new interest in
the national character of Japanese architecture started to attract the attention
of many Japanese architects. The question of how a modern Japan could rise
from the acceptance of outside influence in order to assert its own architectural
identity in the midst of such Western rivals as Britain, Germany, France and
the USA, viz., the subject of the geography of Japanese architectural design,
attracted a growing number of designers and architects.
In the latter half of the Meiji era, even more diverse views of the national
character of Japanese architecture arose. Kikutaro- Shimoda, a former student at
the Imperial University (originally established as Tokyo University in 1877 and
renamed in 1886, absorbing the Imperial College of Engineering), who had
dropped out to study in the USA and subsequently opened his own firm in
Chicago, was keen to define the national style of Japan as a mixture of Western
elements and authentic Japanese style. After returning to Japan, Shimoda later
came to strongly oppose the erection of the new Diet Building in an entirely
Western style, proposing instead a new style which he termed Teikan-heigoshiki, i.e., ‘Imperial Crown Eclecticism’. The style was essentially a unique and
audacious combination of a Westernized Neoclassical external facade and a
Japanese-style roof reminiscent of that of a Japanese shrine/temple or donjon
(Fig. 5.2). Conversely, Chuta Ito-, a nationalist architect who taught a course on
Japanese architectural history, the only course taught in Japanese for architectural
students in those days, at the Imperial University of Tokyo (changed from the
- Shimoda’s design submitted for the competition for the
Figure 5.2 Kikutaro
Imperial Diet of Japan (1919) evinces his ‘Imperial Crown Eclecticism’.
-, 1928. Photo courtesy of
Source: K. Shimoda, Shiso- to Kenchiku, Tokyo: Tokyo-do
Waseda University Library, Tokyo, Japan.
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Ariyuki Kondo
name Imperial University in 1897), severely criticized Shimoda’s eclecticism as
‘a national disgrace’ (Ito- 1937: 99–100), and instead insisted that the origins of
Japanese architecture were to be found in other parts of Asia.
In 1910, the Architectural Institute of Japan held two open forums, both
chaired by Tatsuno, in order to debate the issue of ‘the national style of architecture for the future Japan’ (Yatsuka 2005: 124–125), inviting the leading
architects of the time to present their various views as to how the national
character of Japan should be expressed in architecture. Some claimed that an
eclectic style, blending Western and Japanese elements, would be emblematic
of the national character of modern Japan (Okawa 2012: 45). Some insisted
on the necessity of using every architectural style ever created to formulate a
national style based on an aesthetic taste that had been expressed throughout
the history of Japanese architecture (Okawa 2012: 45). There were also those
who simply contended that Western styles should be adopted as the national
style of Japan (Okawa 2012: 45; Yatsuka 2005: 137). Another view was that the
national style should be derived from the aesthetic preferences of the majority
of people (Okawa 2012: 45; Yatsuka 2005: 120). In addition, there were pundits
who stressed the role of the Zeitgeist in the formation of a new national style
of architecture, and functionalists who defined the basic principle of architectural beauty to be merely a mechanical representation of ‘gravity’ and ‘structure’
(Okawa 2012: 45). As for Tatsuno, his attitude toward the active contemporary adaptation of Western styles, the state of which he had compared to ‘an
international exposition’, was strongly affirmative; and he was convinced that a
national style for Japan would emerge in the course of time in a society highly
receptive to foreign styles of architecture (Tatsuno 1990: 405). The diversity of
opinions expressed throughout the debate, and the fact that a clear consensus
in regard to the stylistic manifestations of the national character of Japan could
not be reached, clearly show that national character, as it expresses itself in art,
ought to emerge with a widened, not narrowed, sense of national possibility.
The ultimate conclusion thus was that the pursuit of national character and the
formation of a national style could not be arbitrary, i.e., this is Japanese, and let
no Japanese try to do otherwise.
Japanese Industrial Design in the Age of Westernization
The same conclusion was reached in the course of searching for the national
character or style native to the geographical-national framework of Meiji
Japan in the domain of industrial design. However, whereas in architecture
Westernization was perceived as the only effective way of reaching the standards
set by Western countries, in design the exchange was reciprocal, as there was
a craze for Japonisme in late nineteenth-century continental Europe. Japonisme
became a matter of interest first among young artists who saw in its thread of
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From Modern Japanese Design to Pevsner’s Art Geography
99
exoticism a key to revitalizing the dreary state of the Western art scene at that
time, and sooner or later this led to the rise of japonisant.There was also interest
in Japanese art and design in Britain. For instance, the British government
decided in 1876, a few years prior to Tatsuno’s dispatch to Britain by the
Japanese government, to assign Christopher Dresser, an industrial designer and
design theorist, later a renowned advocate of Japanese design and culture, as an
envoy to Japan in order to conduct an extensive survey of both traditional and
contemporary Japanese design and decorative art.
The wide-ranging Western interest in Japanese art and design, from the
government down to individual print and craftwork collectors, created the
possibility of a potential market for Japanese industrial products. Hence, when
the invitation for the 1873 Vienna International Exposition was received by
Japan in 1871, it was only natural for the Japanese government to collect
‘traditional’ Japanese handicrafts, with which the Japanese heritage in arts and
crafts could be easily associated, as articles to be displayed at the exposition.
Even when it was decided to include large-scale showpieces in anticipation of
their strong appeal to Westerners (Mori 2009: 22), all the selections were related
to Japanese art-cultural heritage. Amongst them was a golden Shachihoko, a
decoration in the shape of a fabled fish with a leonine head and a tail pointing
skyward, taken from the top of the roof of the donjon of Nagoya Castle (see
Fig. 5.3). It was the consistent policy of the Japanese government to employ
international expositions as occasions to promote Japanese industrial art
products and the notion of oriental exoticism: thus, even the Japanese pavilion
was built in an ultra-exotic manner that awkwardly compounded the wooden
structure of a Shinto shrine with a Japanese garden. In the Viennese exposition,
the industrial policy of Japan, aimed toward expansion of an international
demand for Japanese ‘traditional industrial’ art products, was cordially received,
and many of the objects displayed were purchased by Westerners. Even the
pavilion and the garden, with all its trees, were sold to the Alexander Park
(Mori 2009: 25), a British trading company established by Dresser, who himself
played an indispensable role in the conclusion of this sale. Thus, in response to
the high demand for delicately produced Japanese design overseas, the Japanese
government’s promotion of Japan’s seemingly primitive, but nevertheless
skilfully made, traditional arts and crafts came to be considered a profitable
enterprise.
The newly affirmed state undertaking in industrial art and the discussion
which followed were driven chiefly by two factors: 1) increasing self-confidence
among Japanese government officials and craftspeople in the level of Japanese
craftsmanship as an art-cultural heritage with several hundred years of tradition; and 2) high expectations for the economic impact of Western demand for
Japanese industrial art products (Hirayama 1925: 2–4; Kinoshita 2005: 52–54).
The former was accompanied by a government scheme for tracing the arthistorical identity of Japan through a history of Japanese arts and crafts and
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Ariyuki Kondo
Figure 5.3 Japanese exhibits at the 1873 Vienna International Exposition. Source:
Y. Tanaka and S. Hirayama (eds), Oukokuhakurankai Sandou Kiyou, Tokyo: Haruo
Moriyama, 1897. Photo courtesy of Waseda University Library, Tokyo, Japan.
through preservation of traditional Japanese handicrafts, which had already led
to the promulgation of Koki Kyubutsu Hozon-kata, the specialized law for preserving antiques and ancient artefacts, in 1871.The Japanese government of this
time was confident that the beauty of Japanese arts and crafts and industrial art
met international standards and that the government would therefore make a
handsome profit out of the export business of Japanese industrial art products
and designs.
Before long, however, the ‘Japaneseness’ of Japanese traditional arts and
crafts and industrial design, underpinned by the fashion for Japonisme, became
passé, as Japanese backwardness in the area of industrial design gradually became
conspicuous after the initial success at the Vienna International Exposition. In
this predicament, the modernization of Japanese industrial art production was
vigorously pursued, and individual manufacturers were positive about adopting
new Western technology and methods of corporate management. The necessity of producing designs which met contemporary Western needs for and in
daily life was stressed. As had been stated in 1897, in order to export Japanese
crafts the Japanese industrial art world had to conform to international standards of usage, robustness and uniformity of design (Mori 2009: 65–66). It
was, however, the fact that Japanese exhibits were received unfavourably at the
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From Modern Japanese Design to Pevsner’s Art Geography
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Figure 5.4 Candle stand with chrysanthemum design in black lacquer, an example
of Japanese design for Western lifestyle, mainly produced in the late 1870s and after.
Photo courtesy of The Imperial Household Agency, Tokyo, Japan.
1900 Paris International Exposition that revealed that closing the gap between
Western standards of design and the under-developed state of Japanese design
had become a most pressing issue for the Japanese government. For designers,
the question of how Japan could assert a modern national identity in design
which expressed the Japanese character, while still conforming to Western standards of manufacture and usage, came to be the focal point of their attention.
In 1901, the Dai-Nippon Zuan Kyo-kai (Great Japan Design Association) was
founded, and beginning in the late Meiji era Japanese government-supported
apprentices in the fields of design and decoration were dispatched to Western
countries (Mori 2009: 81).
What is of the utmost interest to observe at this stage of development
in the history of Japanese design is that the search for a Japanese character
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Ariyuki Kondo
in industrial art and design had not – as might be expected – resulted in
any extreme nationalism driven by racialist impulses and emphasis on national
heredity and heritage. Just as in the case of Japanese architecture in the late
Meiji era, the pursuit of national character in industrial design, although
defined within a geographical-national framework, was never chauvinistic. For
designers actively involved in the front lines of Japanese design at the time,
there were mainly three possible approaches in their search for expression of
national character: 1) rigorous study and adaptation of Western precedents; 2)
an eclectic approach, blending Western and Japanese elements; and 3) formulation of a national design based on aesthetic taste expressed throughout the
history of Japanese traditional arts and crafts (Matsuoka 1914: 7). A new group
of designers also emerged, at the tail end of the Meiji era, who refused to
blindly follow current trends and acceptance of dominant Western standards of
design; instead, they thoughtfully selected from the wisdom of Western forefathers of industrial design (Tuchida 2008: 91–98, 128–131). Amongst them was
Kenkichi Tomimoto, the first ‘living national treasure of Japan’,2 who returned
to Japan in 1910 from Britain, where he had studied the art of William Morris
(Fig. 5.5) (Tuchida 2008: 95–96).3
National Character of a Nation as ‘a Self-conscious Cultural
Entity’
By observing the tireless application of architects and designers of the time
to the study of how the national character of Japan could be expressed in
design in response to the rapid Westernization of Meiji Japan, it can be seen
that their quest for the ‘Japaneseness’ of Japanese design led, not necessarily to
the reinforcement of nationalism in design driven by a nationalistic/racialist
impulse, but to diversity of creativity within a geographical-national framework,
all in the desire to manifest the national character of Japan through artefacts. It
was Sir Nikolaus Pevsner (1902–1983) who, from an art/architectural/design
historian’s point of view, distinguished between the idea of a national character
expressed in a nation’s art and nationalism/racialism in action. In his BBC
Reith Lecture series entitled ‘The Englishness of English Art’, broadcast in 1955,
Pevsner eschewed the idea of national character expressed in a racist/jingoistic
fashion in favour of the idea that national character expressed through art is
not necessarily rigid, narrow or dogmatic in claiming equivalence between a
nation’s racial heredity and its art.
When Pevsner presented ‘The geography of art’ as the opening lecture
of the series, taking as his subject a new geographical historiography of art
concerning ‘national character as it expresses itself in art’ (Pevsner 1956: 11),
he meant by ‘national character’ the character of a nation as ‘a self-conscious
cultural entity’ (Pevsner 1956: 185), not the evidence of a racial community.
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From Modern Japanese Design to Pevsner’s Art Geography
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Figure 5.5 Opening page of Kenkichi Tomimoto’s article on William Morris,
published in two parts in the art journal Bijutsu Shinpo- in February and March 1912.
Pevsner ‘had been exposed’ to the idea of the national character of art by
‘the majority, if not all, of his early teachers’ (Harries 2011: 486), one of these
teachers being Pevsner’s supervisor at Leipzig University, Wilhelm Pinder. In
Germany, ‘as early as the latter half of the nineteenth century’, interest in the
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Ariyuki Kondo
national character of art throughout history had already taken on ‘an increasingly racialist complexion’ (Harries 2011: 486; Whyte 2013: 21, 45). Pevsner,
however, purposely downplayed the impact and roles of regionalism, race and
national heredity. Writing in 1956 in the introductory chapter of the published version of his lectures, The Englishness of English Art, Pevsner stressed
that, while being aware that ‘nationalism has had such a come-back in the last
twenty years, and that new small national states have appeared and are appearing everywhere on the map’ (Pevsner 1956: 11), ‘nation, as a self-conscious
cultural entity, is always stronger than race’ (Pevsner 1956: 185). This view must
have reflected Pevsner’s intense concern regarding his own transnational background and upbringing. Pevsner was a German-born Russian Jew ‘who had no
great desire to be Jewish’ (Whyte 2013: 4). Baptized in the Lutheran church,
he was certainly an ‘outsider’ in the Jewish community in Germany. Although
he hoped that ‘the National Socialist reign would be short and that life in
Germany would soon, somehow, return to normal’ (Whyte 2013: 7), it has been
noted that, even in the early 1930s, Pevsner was politically sympathetic to the
National Socialists, professing to be ‘a Nationalist’ in May 1933, several months
prior to his dismissal from his academic post at Göttingen, and publishing a
paper with pro-National Socialist sentiments in March 1934 entitled ‘Kunst
und Staat’ for the German nationalist journal Der Türmer (Whyte 2013: 5–8).
Pevsner was highly conscious of and insecure about being ‘different’, not
only in his native Germany in the early 1930s, but also in Britain, where he
was exiled during World War II. The sense of insecurity he felt about being a
‘stranger in a strange land’ led him naturally to oppose discussing ‘the coming
together of the nation from its racial origins’ (Causey 2004: 167), and also to
separate analysis of national character in art from a view which held race and
art to be inseparable.
Pevsner denied the validity of race, national heredity and racial heritage, and
instead valued the idea of a nation or national framework as ‘a self-conscious
cultural entity’ as noted above.4 As for the influence of racial components on
English art, for instance, Pevsner asserted that ‘racial origins help little’ (Pevsner
1956: 184). Taking the case of eighteenth-century English painter William
Hogarth as a notable example, he stresses in The Englishness of English Art,
referring to Dagobert Frey’s mention of Hogarth, that ‘it is rare that in an
individual artist his racial status is of use in explaining his art’ (Pevsner 1956:
184), and that the racial status of Hogarth, of whose Englishness ‘there can be
no doubt’ (Pevsner 1956: 20), does not explain his art at all; for ‘his name is
Saxon (hog-herd), but the place of his origin in Westmorland is “an area of the
Celtic retreat”, and his anthropological type and that of his sister are “in the
direction of an anglo-mediterranean type on a Celtic-West English-Welsh substratum”’ (Pevsner 1956: 184).
By refusing to consider racial status in discussion of the national character
of a community as ‘a self-conscious cultural entity’, Pevsner held that a
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From Modern Japanese Design to Pevsner’s Art Geography
105
geography of art is still a valid art-historical method/approach in an age of
rapid communication. No matter how globalized the world would become,
with various wireless communication tools keeping ‘everyone all the time in
touch with all other parts of the world’ (Pevsner 1956: 11), and no matter how
powerful a force science would become in society, divisions between nations
as self-conscious cultural entities would not and will not be readily dissolved.
Through ‘the geography of art’, Pevsner came to show his listeners and
readers that the national character of art cannot be arbitrarily determined and
narrowly defined in a nationalistic or racialistic way; instead, a nation as ‘a selfconscious cultural entity’ expresses its character in deep and diverse artistic
possibilities. Such an approach is not only applicable to the art-historical study
of English art and design: the validity of Pevsner’s view was, as we have seen,
confirmed in the state of Japanese architecture and design during the Meiji
period, the age of rapid Westernization in Japan. While nationalism in artistic
creativity could have been reinforced in response to foreign influence, viz.,
the implacable impact of artistic/design activities in Western countries, what
many Japanese architects and designers in those days actually came to realize
was the diversity of creativity that in fact lay within their geographical-national
framework, from rigorous imitation of Western architecture and design and
eclecticism in both Japan and the West to aesthetic nationalism driven by a
national/racial consciousness, all in search of design (whether architectural
or industrial) inherent in Japan. The essence of ‘the geography of art’ in the
context of modern Japanese design, as with the Englishness of English art that
Pevsner observed, was that the Japaneseness of Japanese architecture and design
was not and need not be arbitrary.
Conclusion
Pevsner maintained that one merit of history was and is that ‘it tells us how
great men have acted under certain circumstances’ (Pevsner 1966).5 Pevsner
acknowledged the role that knowledge of the past can play in development
in contemporary society. Today, living in an even more globalizing age, which
is, in some ways, more racialistically orientated than that of 1955–1956, when
Pevsner first introduced his idea of ‘the geography of art’ in his own version of
the historical study of English art and design, we see the rapid rise of multiracial communities and societies within geographical-national frameworks
everywhere. In such an age as our own, art/design historical enquiry based on a
geographical-national framework or on Pevsnerian art geography, which evokes
the character of the geographical-national framework of a cultural entity, not
of a racial community, is an approach more crucial than ever to be employed
in the historiography of art, architecture and design. This approach shuns the
negative baggage of racial consciousness in favour of untrammelled creativity
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Ariyuki Kondo
in ‘a self-conscious cultural entity’. It stands aloof from racial conflict and is free
from the anathema of ultra-nationalism and racialism.
Notes
1. For Tatsuno’s own view on the elements that influence the formation of the national
architectural style of Japan, see e.g., Tatsuno (1990: 402–405).
2. The ‘living national treasure of Japan’ is governmental recognition of someone as
an individual with intangible cultural skills, in accordance with the provisions of The Act on
Protection of Cultural Properties of Japan.
3. In 1912, for instance, Kenkichi Tomimoto published an article on William Morris in
Bijutsu Shinpo-, consisting of two parts. See Tomimoto (1912a; 1912b).
4. Inevitably, it is totally anachronistic to aspire to found a sovereign state for one race whilst
taking no account of the significance of cultural and/or religious values and being insensitive to
human rights. In the region of East Asia, Communist China’s insistence on Chinese ethnocentrism
at the expense of multi-racial, democratic, independent Taiwan and the rise of nationalism and
ethnicism in Japan are twenty-first century cases in point.
5. In 1966, Pevsner made conference notes on the meaning of teaching art history in schools
and colleges of art, adding some further handwritten notes to a handout which he had earlier
prepared for a meeting of the ‘Art History and Liberal Studies’ panel of the National Council for
Diplomas in Art and Design (NCDAD). The notes are now held in the special collections of the
Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles, CA, USA (Nikolaus Pevsner Papers: Box 21, Folder 7).
References
Azuma, H. 2002. Tokyo-Eki no Kenchikuka Tatsuno Kingo, Tokyo: Ko-dansha.
Causey, A. 2004.‘Pevsner and Englishness’, in P. Draper (ed), Reassessing Nikolaus Pevsner. Aldershot:
Ashgate.
Clark, K. 1950. The Gothic Revival: An Essay in the History of Taste. London: Constable.
Games, S. 2011. Pevsner – The Early Life: Germany and Art. London and New York: Continuum.
Harries, S. 2011. Nikolaus Pevsner:The Life. London: Chatto & Windus.
Hirayama, N. 1925. Sakumu-Roku. Tokyo: N. Hirayama.
House of Commons. 1835. Report from the Select Committee on Rebuilding Houses of Parliament with
the Minutes of Evidence, and Appendix, 3 June 1835. London.
Ito-, C. 1937. ‘Giin Kenchiku no Yo-shiki nitsuite’, in C. Ito-, Ito- Chuta Kenchiku Bunken, vol. 6.
Tokyo: Ryuginsha, 96–101.
Ito-, N., H. Ota and M. Sekino (eds). 1976. Bunkazai Ko-za Nihon no Kenchiku 5: Kinsei II – Kindai.
Tokyo: Daiichi Ho-ki.
Kinoshita, N. 2005. Okakura Tenshin: Mono ni Kanzureba tsui ni Ware nashi. Kyoto: Mineruva Shobo-.
Matsuoka, H. 1914. ‘Ko-gyo--teki Zuan nitsuite’, Aichiken Sho-hin Chinretsu-kan Ho-koku 37: 6–8.
Mori, H. 2009. Nihon ‘Ko-gei’ no Kindai: Bijyutsu to Dezain no Botai toshite. Tokyo: Yoshikawa
Kobunkan.
Okawa, M., et al. 1997. Zusetsu Kindai Kenchiku no Keifu: Nihon to Seio- no Ku-kan Hyo-gen wo Yomu.
Tokyo: Shokokusha.
Pevsner, N. 1956. The Englishness of English Art: An Expanded and Annotated Version of the Reith
Lectures Broadcast in October and November 1955. London: The Architectural Press.
———. 1966. Conference notes for a presentation at the Conference on the Teaching of Art
History in Schools and Colleges of Art, Chelsea College of Science and Technology.
Shimoda, K. 1928. Shiso- to Kenchiku, Tokyo: Tokyo-do-.
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From Modern Japanese Design to Pevsner’s Art Geography
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Tanaka,Y. and N. Hirayama (eds). 1897. Oukokuhakurankai Sandou Kiyou. Tokyo: S. Moriyama.
Tatsuno, K. 1990. ‘Kenchiku Shinpo no Yurai’, in T. Fujimori, Nihon Kindai Shiso- Taikei 19, Toshi,
Kenchiku. Tokyo: Iwanami Shoten, 400–405.
Tomimoto, K. 1912a. ‘William Morris no Hanashi: Part 1’, Bijutsu Shinpo- 11(4): 14–20.
———. 1912b. ‘William Morris no Hanashi: Part 2’, Bijutsu Shinpo- 11(5): 22–27.
Tuchida, M. 2008. Samayoeru Ko-gei:Yanagi Muneyoshi to Kindai. Urayasu: Sofukan.
Whyte, I. 2013. ‘Nikolaus Pevsner: Art History, Nation, and Exile’, RIHA Journal 0075.
Retrieved 6 December 2013 from http://www.riha-journal.org/articles/2013/2013-octdec/whyte-pevsner.
Yatsuka, H. 2005. Shiso- toshite no Nihon Kindai Kenchiku. Tokyo: Iwanami Shoten.
Ariyuki Kondo is Professor of History of British Art and Architecture at Ferris
University, Japan, where he teaches the history of eighteenth- to twentiethcentury British art, architecture and design. His recent publications include
Robert and James Adam, Architects of the Age of Enlightenment (Pickering & Chatto
2012).
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CH APTER
6
Imagining the Indian Nation
The Design of Gandhi’s Dandi March and Nehru’s
Republic Day Parade
Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan
The rhetoric of nationalism gained momentum in India in the first half of
the twentieth century as the anti-imperialist movement to achieve political
independence from the British intensified. It continued in a different form
after independence in 1947 as the task of nation building became the main
preoccupation. Design was harnessed powerfully, in both the colonial period
and after, to concretize and make visible the abstract notion of ‘nation’, making
nationalism an indispensible lens for a fuller understanding of design in modern
India. Equally, design becomes an indispensible lens through which to examine
the ways in which nationalism is reified in a globalized Indian present.
Scholars have explored this theme from diverse disciplinary perspectives,
revealing the manner and modes in which the ‘nation’ has been manifested
in India’s visual and material culture and shaped by it. They have examined
domains as diverse as print media, textiles, advertising, handicraft, national
exhibitions, documentary films, television programming, museums, architecture
and the planning of cities and industrial townships (Guha-Thakurta 1992, 2004;
Jain, K. 2007; Kalia 1994, 1999, 2004; Lang, Desai and Desai 1997; Mathur
2007; McGowan 2009; Pinney 2004; Roy 2007; Tarlo 1996; Trivedi 2007).
This chapter approaches the theme from the perspective of political practice
to unravel the ways in which design is harnessed in mass mobilization and
statecraft, viewing political leaders as designers. It focuses on two spectacles:
M.K. Gandhi’s Dandi March and Jawaharlal Nehru’s Republic Day Parade,
two events chronologically placed on either side of that historic event, India’s
independence.
Notes for this section begin on page 123.
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The Design of Gandhi’s Dandi March and Nehru’s Republic Day Parade
109
The Dandi March was devised and staged by Gandhi in 1930 to mobilize
Indians in an expression of resistance to the colonial order and the Republic
Day Parade, an annual ritual staged from 1951 onwards, as a celebration of India’s
political sovereignty. At the heart of the design of both events is the imagination
and animation of a viable national identity and their designers, Gandhi and
Nehru, employed similar design devices. Yet, the way in which these devices
were developed and deployed point to two very different conceptions of India,
two distinct sets of intended outcomes that finally result in two different modes
of longevity in the globalized present.
The Dandi March
Central to Gandhi’s political practice was satyagraha or ‘firmness in truth’, a
mode of non-violent civil disobedience which he conceived in South Africa in
1905 to mobilize the local Indian community to protest against the injustices
perpetrated by the Transvaal government. Later, on his return to India, he
launched a series of satyagrahas on issues such as indigo farmers’ rights, working
conditions in textile mills, unjust legislations and iniquitous taxes levied by the
British government and social inclusion for India’s marginalized communities.
The Salt Satyagraha of 1930, of which the Dandi March was the dramatic
component, centred on a protest against the tax on salt. It was Gandhi’s largest
mass mobilization, involving the participation of hundreds of thousands of
women and men all over India.
The Dandi March was carefully and strategically designed. This chapter
focuses on six principal design aspects of the event: the choice of the issue –
salt; deciding the publics it would reach out to – Indians, the British, and an
international audience; choosing a mode to animate the issue – the march;
the timing; the route; and, lastly, the composition of the marching group.
Through these, the contours of the India of Gandhi’s imagination come into
view.
In December 1929, at its annual session at Lahore, the Indian National
Congress resolved to fight for purna swaraj or complete independence from
British rule. A few weeks later, on 26 January 1930, a formal pledge of
independence was read out and the responsibility for mass mobilization to
achieve this goal was vested in Gandhi. In mid-February, Gandhi decided to
focus on the exploitative Salt Law as the issue around which to mobilize people.
India was one of very few countries where the State had monopoly over
salt manufacture and sale. In 1930, the British government levied a 2400 per
cent tax over the wholesale price of locally manufactured salt in order to
create a market for salt imported from Britain. It was a time of rising prices
and falling wages and as a result the burden of the tax fell heavily on the
poorer sections of Indian society (Phadke 2000: 142; Weber 1997: 81–84). As
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Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan
an object of everyday use, salt provided a common rallying point across caste,
class, religious and regional identities that made up the diversity of India. Its
cultural associations in both Indian and Western traditions as symbol of all that
is critical to human survival and exalted in human relationships (as reflected in
myriad proverbs in many Indian languages and English) made it possible to take
the campaign of breaking the Salt Law beyond the political plane to generate
tremendous ethical and emotional appeal the world over.
Gandhi’s colleagues were horrified at what appeared to them as a trivial
issue on which to base a fight for purna swaraj; many Congress leaders thought a
nationwide breaking of land laws or forming a parallel government were more
forceful options. But this was no flight of fancy.Trained as a lawyer, Gandhi knew
that the penal sections of the Salt Law were not severe and large numbers could
therefore be persuaded to participate. The law offered a number of options for
breaking it – manufacturing salt, possessing illegally manufactured salt, selling
or buying it and even exhorting to sell or buy it were all breaches of the law.
Thus people could participate in a variety of ways, it was replicable all over
the country and the campaign could be localized and customized according
to regional constraints. For instance, in inland areas where salt could not be
manufactured, salt from the coast could be bought or sold.
Then came the question of animating the issue. Gandhi chose to march
to the seashore to collect sea salt, combining the emotive power of salt as a
symbol with another equally powerful one, the march. He had already led
a long march in South Africa in 1913 where he and 2221 people marched
from Charlestown to Volkrust to protest against the Immigration Act. Now,
he declared he would march out from Sabarmati Ashram in Ahmedabad to
break the Salt Law, never to return till purna swaraj was attained. He likened
it to Moses leading his people to the Promised Land, the Hindu Lord Rama
leaving his kingdom to honour a promise made to his father and Gautama’s
mahabhinishkramana or ‘great departure’ in search of the enlightenment which
eventually made him the Buddha. Gandhi could easily have made a quick
march from Ahmedabad, his base in western India, to the nearest seashore
on the western coast of India but he chose Dandi, a place sufficiently far
away so the march would become a long-drawn out spectacle generating wide
publicity. As he wrote later, he wanted ‘world sympathy in this battle of Right
against Might’ (Gandhi 1999: 13).
The route was plotted by Gandhi’s colleague Vallabhbhai Patel,
strategically taking the march through all the areas south of Ahmedabad
where the Indian National Congress was well established, ending at Dandi,
a village to which some of Gandhi’s South African colleagues belonged.
The departure date, 12 March, was chosen such that the 241-mile distance
between Ahmedabad and Dandi would be covered in twenty-five days of
daily walking instalments of about ten miles so that the march could be
concluded on 6 April. This was a significant date as it marked the start of
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The Design of Gandhi’s Dandi March and Nehru’s Republic Day Parade
111
National Week, which had been celebrated since 1920 to commemorate an
earlier satyagraha against the Rowlatt Act (a legislation which curtailed civil
and political rights) in 1919. Thus, layers of intertextual and interdiscursive
references were built into the design elements that went into constructing the
Dandi March.
Finally, the composition of the contingent of marchers: Gandhi selected
members of the group mostly from among the residents of Sabarmati Ashram
to represent the diversity of Indians. The seventy-eight men who accompanied
him were among those who were most committed to the Gandhian way of
life, purposively drawn from all the provinces of India and including Muslims,
5 May Christians, and high and low caste Hindus, from ordinary and well-to-do
family backgrounds.1 Women were not included in the main group of marchers;2 however, he selected his colleagues Abbas Tyabji, a Muslim, and Sarojini
Naidu, a prominent woman Congress leader, to replace him as leader of the
group in the event of his arrest.
The group set off from Sabarmati Ashram at dawn on 12 March.The group’s
cultural diversity was visually unified by elements from the Gandhian ethos.
The marchers all wore khadi (unbleached, hand spun, hand woven cotton)
giving the contingent a distinct appearance and corporate identity that
marked them apart from other Indians. For the preceding decade, Gandhi
had relentlessly promoted hand spinning and weaving and had made wearing
khadi mandatory for anyone choosing to join his movement. Aparigraha,
abstaining from accumulating material possessions, was another of Gandhi’s
mandates; so all seventy-eight men carried the barest personal possessions.
They ate the simplest food at every village halt on the way and began each day
of the march with an all-faith prayer to communicate the value of the simple
life and equality of all faiths in a land of rampant poverty and religious strife.
The group reached Dandi on 6 April where they picked up handfuls of
dried salt from the seashore, thereby breaking the law. Thousands of men and
women joined them along the way to Dandi; simultaneous marches, with many
variations, took place all over India to numerous places on the country’s southern, eastern and western coasts and the Salt Law was broken on the same day
in all the variety of ways the legal provisions afforded.The world press reported
the event on a day-to-day basis and newsreels depicted the marchers in cinema
halls.The infringement of the Salt Law continued over the following weeks and
Gandhi was arrested on 5 May 1930, as were about 90,000 satyagrahis over the
next months. In early 1931, Gandhi was featured on the cover of Time magazine as Man of the Year, a measure of the international impact of the event.3
This was the anatomy of the design of the Dandi March. The event, as it was
assembled and visually presented, revealed the India of Gandhi’s imagination.
This was a courageous India, where religious differences and social hierarchies
were acknowledged but transcended through joint participation in a protest
against an imperial power symbolized by a law which exploited the poor and
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Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan
the rich alike. In a land where clothes, food and personal belief set apart communities in appearance and lifestyle (see Tarlo 1996), the Gandhian lifestyle,
adopted and exemplified by the marchers, was how he imagined everyday life in
an independent India – a life of equality, freedom, simplicity, self-determination
and cooperation.
Figure 6.1 Miniature sheet of four postage stamps released on the seventy-fifth
anniversary of the Salt Satyagraha in 2005 depicting Gandhi leading the march,
the route, newspaper coverage of the event and his message. The photograph at the
bottom shows the visual appearance of the group. Photograph by the author.
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The Design of Gandhi’s Dandi March and Nehru’s Republic Day Parade
113
The Republic Day Parade
We turn now to the Republic Day Parade to examine the orchestration of the
event along the same six principal design elements focused upon for the Dandi
March: the issue – celebrating India’s independence from the British and the
adoption of a new Constitution of India and thereby, the creation of the new
republic; deciding the publics to reach out to – national and international;
choosing a mode to animate the issue – the parade; its timing; the route; and
the composition of the marching group.
The Dandi March was designed to mobilize the mass of Indians in a movement for complete independence from British rule. Independence was finally
achieved seventeen years later in August 1947. Gandhi was assassinated in early
1948 and the task of nation building was taken over by his colleagues, some
of whom we have met in the preceding pages. Jawaharlal Nehru became the
first Prime Minister and the process of articulating nationhood in a written
Constitution, which had commenced in 1946, became the main preoccupation.
After four years of discussion and debate, India gave herself a new Constitution
in 1950 and the sovereign and democratic Indian state came into existence. In
a public address, Deputy Prime Minister Vallabhbhai Patel (who had crafted
the route for the Dandi March) observed that ‘the day on which India attains
republican status would be written in letters of gold in its history’, when ‘all
traces of foreign rule’ were erased and Indians became ‘in law and in fact [their]
own masters’ (quoted in Masselos 1996: 190). But which day in the year could
be designated to bear that honour?
As mentioned earlier, the Indian National Congress had formalized its
resolve to fight for complete independence through the pledge read out on 26
January 1930. From the following year onwards, the day had been celebrated
as Independence Day. However, real independence, with a transfer of power,
took place on 15 August 1947. So 26 January could no longer be celebrated
as Independence Day. Yet it held too much political significance to be simply
set aside. Therefore, it was chosen as the day for the official adoption of the
Constitution, linking the inauguration of assertion against colonial rule with its
conclusion in the attainment of the status of a republic. From then on it came
to be celebrated as Republic Day. It was a momentous occasion and the task
before the political leaders of India was to devise a way to first re-consecrate
the day and then honour and celebrate it.
On the morning of the first Republic Day celebrations in 1950, India’s
first President took oath of office in the presidential palace in the capital New
Delhi, promising to uphold the Constitution and subsequently swearing in the
Prime Minister and his cabinet of ministers. Similar ceremonies took place in
the provinces where governors took oath and swore in chief ministers and their
cabinet colleagues and the provinces became states in the new republic. In the
afternoon, the President drove to Irwin Stadium where he was received by the
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Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan
Minister of Defence, who in turn ceremonially introduced him to the chiefs
of the army, navy and air force. The President raised the national flag and bands
played the national anthem. He then took salute at a march past of the armed
forces and a fly past of air force planes.
A differently articulated Republic Day Parade took place the following
year on the first anniversary of the republic, becoming the principal mode to
animate the birth of the Indian republic and articulate national identity and
nation building. Although the event underwent modifications over the next
several years, its defining elements were already in place in the first couple
of years. These elements were visualized largely by Nehru, which is why this
chapter regards him as the designer of the event. Nehru’s writings offer a
clue to understanding his approach. While in prison in 1942–1946, he wrote
Discovery of India, in which he anticipated independence, already planning the
new nation, dreaming of giving India the ‘garb of modernity’ without letting
go of her glorious past (Nehru 1986: 50). He wrote, ‘Traditions have to be
accepted to a large extent and adapted and transformed to meet new conditions
and ways of thought, and at the same time new traditions have to be built up’
(Nehru 1986: 53). These lines offer a framework to examine the Republic Day
Parade, as he visualized and designed it, as an adaptation and transformation of
traditional national commemorations, thereby forging an annually reiterated
new national tradition.
Thus, on 26 January 1951, the ceremonies began in the morning and at a
new location, Rajpath, where it has been staged ever since. The setting was no
longer a sports stadium but a landscape replete with symbols of state. Rajpath
(formerly Kingsway) is a ceremonial stretch of road linking the presidential
palace, Rashtrapati Bhavan (formerly Viceroy’s House) with India Gate, a
memorial to Indian soldiers in the British Army. As in the previous year, the
President arrived in state, unfurled the flag, the national anthem was sung
and contingents of the armed forces marched down Rajpath saluting their
commander in chief. In their new setting, the celebrations began to take on the
character of a spectacle.
Gandhi self-consciously linked the Dandi March to earlier, if mythical,
marches; the Republic Day Parade ironically drew from colonial rituals and,
perhaps inevitably, from Congress party models of anti-imperialist mobilization.
The setting and military presence were reminiscent of the Imperial Durbars
such as the one in 1877 organized in Delhi to proclaim Victoria as Empress of
India and repeated in 1903 and 1911 to announce Edward VII as Kaiser-i-Hind
and George V as King Emperor of India. Native princes and chiefs were invited
to ritually express their allegiance to the reigning sovereign. The morning flag
hoisting, accompanied by a rendition of the national anthem, harked back to
pre-1947 Independence Day celebrations. Then, 26 January celebrations began
with prabhat pheris, or morning processions, of Congress party activists winding
their way through the streets singing patriotic songs, eventually gathering at a
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The Design of Gandhi’s Dandi March and Nehru’s Republic Day Parade
115
central spot, usually the party office, to raise the Gandhi-designed national flag
and sing the national song, Vande Mataram.4
While the structure of the parade drew from earlier models and began
with references from the immediate past, its destination harked back to earlier
glory. The parade marched down Rajpath and wound its way northwards
through the city ending at the Red Fort, the seventeenth-century seat of
power of the Mughal Empire. Other allusions to erstwhile empires lay in the
national symbols showcased on the occasion. Replacing the spinning wheel
in the pre-independence flag was the Ashokan wheel, a symbol appropriated from the two-thousand-year old Mauryan Empire, and the four lions
from the Ashokan pillar became the crest of the state of India. Thus the
parade to celebrate the new republic became a montage of intertextual references to various configurations of erstwhile empires and a just-concluded
anti-imperialist struggle.
The following year, Nehru’s government consciously and explicitly set
the celebrations apart from national day celebrations of other countries by
adding a cultural pageant to the military display. A Ministry of Education note
of 1952 stated that this was done to communicate that ‘this young Republic
values cultural progress no less than military strength’ (quoted in Singh 1998:
92), transforming the parade from a military ritual to one that served to
symbolically unite the new republic by drawing its culturally diverse population
into a meaningful ‘new tradition’. To set the tone, art exhibitions, music and
dance festivals, literary gatherings and sports meets were organized in the days
preceding the parade.
The addition of the cultural pageant was made at a time when the process
of reorganizing existing British-demarcated provinces into states was underway.
It was a period of tension when linguistic and regional assertions were making
their presence felt and rendering the visual communication of a viable, cohesive
national identity, while simultaneously making space for cultural multiplicity,
became urgent. Planning for the next year’s parade, Nehru wrote to the Chief
Ministers of states in late 1952 explaining that the ‘concept of this procession
and exhibition and everything else should be to demonstrate both the unity
and great variety and diversity of India’ and that this could happen if ‘states
participate in these Delhi celebrations and take some responsibility for them’
(quoted in Singh 1998: 98). Each state was invited to send a tableau representing some distinctive feature of its people, performing arts, crafts and architecture, displaying India’s rich diversity of regional costumes, dance forms and
music along with dioramas and models of famous monuments. While representatives from the different states participated in their traditional costumes, the
parade was enlarged to visually showcase the ‘garb of modernity’ of the newly
constituted state. Nehru suggested that a part of the parade display could depict
‘the Grow-More-Food campaign’ with a tableau representing the abundance of
food and that farmers winning state competitions for agricultural production
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Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan
Figure 6.2 View of cultural floats displayed at the Republic Day Parade, 2013.
Photograph by Sondeep Shankar.
Figure 6.3 The Indian Army’s BrahMos cruise missiles displayed at the Republic
Day Parade, 2013. Photograph by Sondeep Shankar.
should be invited to Delhi at the government’s expense to participate in the
parade (quoted in Singh 1998: 98). Later, representations of dams, power plants,
the launching of satellites and atomic power plants found a place in the parade.
On the fiftieth anniversary of the republic in 2000, a specially commissioned
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The Design of Gandhi’s Dandi March and Nehru’s Republic Day Parade
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float featured a large replica of the Constitution propped up on three pillars
labelled ‘democracy’, ‘legislature’ and ‘judiciary’.
Nehru was equally clear about the audience for whom this display was
being put on. He visualized it as a cultural festival designed to make an impact
on national and international audiences, ‘to impress not only the important
representatives of foreign governments who witness the parade but also hundreds
of thousands of our own people, to whom the Republic Day celebrations
should be both a source of joy and pride and an aspiration’ (quoted in Singh
1998: 95). Each year a foreign head of state was invited as chief guest, invariably
chosen in keeping with current realpolitik. At the first ceremony at Irwin
Stadium it was Indonesian President Sukarno, Nehru’s comrade in the NonAligned Movement of postcolonial states coming together to counter Russia
and the United States; in 1961 it was Queen Elizabeth; and in 2007 Vladimir
Putin.
Thus, the Republic Day Parade was a new tradition which symbolically
brought together the industrial and the cultural, the past and the present, handicrafts and the machine. At the same time, it communicated powerfully to two
very different but equally important audiences that Nehru wished to reach, the
local and global. To his citizens he communicated the new programmes undertaken by the State to rebuild India and its concrete achievements through these
initiatives. Simultaneously, he wished to underline that the arts were equally
central to the Republic and represented its linkages to a glorious past which
was to be the fountainhead for a flourishing future. To his global audience, the
Parade communicated a resurgent India determined to bring material and cultural prosperity to her citizens and asserting herself as an independent nation
free of her colonial masters. An estimated 200,000 people witnessed the procession in person; a live commentary was broadcast on radio to millions of listeners
all over the country and in the 1980s, live telecasts brought the event visually
into people’s homes and with it, the idea of becoming and being Indian in
modern India.
The Afterlife of the March and Parade
On 12 March 1931 Gandhi left Ahmedabad for Dandi again to explain to the
people his pact with Viceroy Irwin after his release from prison. He left on the
same day, by the same route. But this time he went by car and reached Dandi
in two days. There was no public participation, no persuasive speeches and no
religious imagery. For Gandhi, salt and the march to Dandi had been chosen
to fulfil a particular set of historical circumstances and once the situation had
changed they no longer had any relevance and had outlived their usefulness. In
fact, when the movement was restarted in 1932, centred again on disobeying
the Salt Law, contemporary accounts noted the lack of enthusiasm. There have
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Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan
been subsequent, largely unsuccessful re-enactments by Indian politicians and
activists of all stripes seeking to cash in on the symbols of Gandhi’s satyagraha
to further their own particular agendas.5 But the event lived on in ways that its
designer had neither intended nor anticipated, when its appeal lay in interpretative re-enactments. I will examine two examples which speak of the meaning
that artists at two different locations outside India saw in that event of 1930 and
which contribute to its afterlife.
Fiona Foley is a contemporary artist from Australia. Her art draws from
her life as an indigenous woman from a community whose culture has a
living memory of its colonization by the English. Her work both reflects
her connection to her aboriginal identity and challenges Australian culture
to reread history to reveal moments of strength and empowerment. In April
2005, at a group show entitled Out There at the Sainsbury Centre for Visual
Arts in Norwich, Foley joined seven other renowned artists to create sitespecific outdoor works. Foley’s contribution was Dandi March (rowing boat,
khadi bags, salt). On display in an open wooded field were 241 white, saltfilled bags, one for each mile that Gandhi walked. Four bags stood separately
with the words SALT, BRITISH, KHADI and GANDHI in red. Nearby, a
small red rowing boat was placed upside down as a metaphor for maritime
trade routes and the coast of Dandi. Uniting these elements was a paisley
motif mown directly into the grass, pointing to the Norwich shawls which
adapted the motif from shawls sent by colonial officers in India to their wives
at home.6
Joseph DeLappe is a performance artist and art professor whose work
inquisitively engages with issues of memory, politics, history, physicality and
the virtual. He believes that it is essential for him, as an artist and as a citizen
of the world, to engage in and challenge the norms and expectations of the
digital present and the larger cultural context.7 In 2008, in his Re-enactment:The
Salt Satyagraha Online, he walked the 241 miles of the original march, starting
his performance on 12 March and ending it on 6 April, at Eyebeam Art and
Technology at New York and on Second Life, the web-based virtual world.
He walked on a treadmill customized for cyberspace such that each step he
took controlled the forward movement of his avatar, MGandhi Chakrabarti, on
Second Life, thus enabling a simultaneously real and virtual re-enactment. For
those twenty-five days, he interacted with visitors from all over the world who
had logged onto Second Life in their various avatars. He told them about the
march, answered their questions and some of them joined him on the walk in
cyberspace just like the many who joined Gandhi in 1930.The route in Second
Life took him to digital simulations of Tiananmen Square where MGandhi
Chakrabarti came face to face with a tank, Guantanamo Bay Detention Centre
and a ‘Palestinian Holocaust Museum’ still under construction, evoking contemporary conflicts and human rights abuses.The last day was at a virtual Dandi
memorial. The following year, DeLappe performed Gandhi in Prison on Second
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Figure 6.4 DeLappe on treadmill with Gandhi avatar in background. Photo by
Laurie A. Macfee, courtesy of Joseph DeLappe.
Figure 6.5 Gandhi avatar at Dandi monument with other avatars. Photo courtesy of
Joseph DeLappe.
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Life, re-enacting Gandhi’s days in prison after the Dandi March to the accompaniment of readings from Torture Memos of the Bush era.
The examples show that both the Dandi March, the symbol of salt in
particular, and the larger context of the Salt Satyagraha become available to
everyone as human beings with agency, responding to their time in the way
Gandhi responded to his. The Dandi March’s anti-establishment intent seems
to invest it with a motive power which spirals outwards in its impact. These
interpretations of the Dandi March reflect the changing contours of India and
the world, and India-in-the-world where invoking that event of 1930 offers an
expanded space for protest and the expression of human agency in the global
present.
If the Dandi March opens an international space for contemporary
interpretation outside of itself, the Republic Day Parade, with its continuing
preoccupation with the idea of projecting the Indian nation, offers space for
political expression within itself. Again, we examine two examples for insights
into the unfolding dynamic of the event through reconfigurations of the
military and cultural segments of the parade from within and without. The
idea of the cultural display as ‘a moving pageant of India in its rich diversity’
bore within it its own contradictions. Nehru’s enthusiasm was institutionalized
into government guidelines to the states for proposals for tableaux scrupulously
emphasizing authenticity and seeking assurance ‘that the selected dance is a
genuine folk dance and the costumes and musical instruments are traditional
and authentic’ (quoted in Jain, J. 2007).
An officer of the Sangeet Natak Akademi (the national institution for the
preservation of dance and musical forms) who has been associated with the
Republic Day Folk Dance Festival preceding the parade reveals the limits of
such bureaucratic safeguards. According to him, as time went on, dancers at
these festivals were often urban, sometimes college students and even actresses,
who rehearsed in Delhi to create ‘folk’ dances for the festival. State governments allotted money for buying new costumes for troupes representing them
in Delhi; officials who either had no idea of local traditions, or could not care
less, bought the wrong fabrics and colours in an effort to make the state’s presentation attractive. Ironically, dance historians use images from these annual
festivals to illustrate their books on Indian folk dances, which in turn become
academic sources for reference (Jain, J. 2007).
To add to this, Nehru also wanted to give India ‘the garb of modernity’ and
through industrial and scientific projects improve the quality of everyday life
in India. The Nagas, Santhals and Bhils whose culture he found ‘so attractive’
have modernized and urbanized. But state tableaux, in search for the chimera
of ‘authenticity’, present them in romanticized depictions as ‘children of nature’
with forest backdrops, often derived from colonial anthropological archives
(Jain, J. 2007).
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The transformations in the military display show a different inward trajectory. In late 1962, India and China went to war which ended with a humiliating conclusion for India. In the parade of 1963 soon after, both the military
and cultural displays were cancelled and replaced with a civilian procession of
Prime Minister Nehru and his cabinet colleagues, political representatives from
different states, chancellors, deans, professors and students of Delhi University,
a thousand representatives of the national trade unions, two thousand women
and four thousand children in a show of national solidarity. In contrast, in 2000,
India’s conflict with Pakistan in Kashmir was manifested in victory tableaux
accompanied by displays of the weaponry which won the battle. In each of
these situations, the military segment of the parade was used to compose a narrative of the nation as a cohesive entity, united against threats from outside (Roy
2007: 83; Jain, J. 2007).
But what of internal dissension? Through all the intervening decades there
have been many moments when different regions of India have resisted the
state and their resistance has even taken the form of armed struggle, often
to the point of threatening secession. However, the script of the parade, by
definition, does not permit space for this kind of expression. It would amount
to an existential crisis if it did.The Republic Day Parade, and the deeper power
structure in which its design elements are embedded, domesticates the human
being with agency into obedient citizens and passive spectators who buy tickets
for a place in the audience. Designed to be repeated annually to the same
script with greater and greater degrees of inauthenticity, it lives on in an evertightening entropic spiral. In celebrating the nation in the form of a scripted
bureaucratic ritual of obedience, with its references to empire, the parade offers
no space for interpretation or expression, pointing to an increasingly intractable
Indian state. The only way its space can be entered is by disruption in the form
of demonstrations, and boycotts of official Republic Day celebrations. As a
result, the parade now takes place under elaborate security arrangements and
the President takes salute in a transparent bulletproof enclosure. A day whose
origins lay in anti-imperialist protest is now the site of protest against the very
idea of nationhood that it seeks to symbolize and celebrate.
Conclusion
Placing the Dandi March and Republic Day Parade side by side reveals that
they share many structural elements – both were varieties of marches designed,
in content and form, as symbolically coded performances alluding to historical
events and images in order to reach out to domestic and international publics.
The diversity of India and Indians was central to the way both were imagined.
The juxtaposition also reveals the fact that the two events diverged dramatically in the way these design devices were deployed. If the Dandi March was
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Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan
visualized as a one-off event, the Republic Day Parade was designed as one that
that would be repeated annually. While the Dandi March was coded with the
quality of each-according-to-his-own-capacity, the Republic Day parade was
designed so that replication was achieved by bureaucratic diktat and reproduced
at the state level with holographic exactitude. Flowing from this is the important difference in the location of Indians on the axes of participation and spectatorship. For the Dandi March, people were imagined as participants in the
creation of a preferred future; the Parade regarded people as performers and
spectators, and in both roles as recipients of a state-imagined preferred future.
And what conception of India did each embody? The composition of
the marching contingent to Dandi pointed to India’s social, religious, regional
diversity but visually united in khadi, their differences dissolved and resolved in
a fellowship of the simple life and self-sufficiency. More importantly, diversity
was coded into the event in a completely different way with the possibility
of varied participation, each according to his or her ability. In the Republic
Day Parade, diversity was visually emphasized, made explicit in dress and
dance, with participants ostensibly united by their citizenship of the new state.
If disobedience was the leitmotif of the Dandi March, then obedience and
routinized falling-in-line was the organizing principal of the Republic Day
Parade. In these last two aspects lies the nature of longevity of the two events.
The accounts and analyses of the design of the two events explored in this
chapter pose several provocations for the writing of national design histories in a
global context. First, it suggests that design historiography might be productively
expanded if it were to move beyond normative notions of design as manifested
by existing categories such as industrial design, visual communication, fashion
and so on. By exploring a domain such as political practice and statecraft
the chapter suggests a methodological shift which illuminates how design
imagination and design praxis is deployed by agents who have hitherto not
been considered designers, thus opening up a rich ground for fresh exploration
in diverse global settings.
Flowing from this is a second provocation: how may design history illuminate
political design as well as the politics of design in colonial and postcolonial
settings? The chapter has attempted to explore the ways in which design is
implicated in the visualization of the notion of ‘nation’. It offers a reciprocal
lens whereby the evolution of a particular strand of Indian nationalism in the
context of the country’s colonial experience is revealed through design, and the
examination of that strand in turn reveals design as a space and mode of action
in the political domain.
Lastly, in exploring the afterlife of the two events, this chapter opens up a
discussion within design scholarship on the agency of design and designers in
the global present. It suggests the contingent nature of agency in the two case
studies, yet points to the ways in which agency is transferred to new actors, or is
seized by them, in response to the exigencies of the global present. In so doing
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The Design of Gandhi’s Dandi March and Nehru’s Republic Day Parade
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it throws fresh light on the essential iterative nature of design as ever a work in
progress.
Notes
1. The South African march of 1913 was a mass upsurge of all who were adversely affected by
the Immigration Act.The Dandi March, in comparison, was deliberately designed and strategically
crafted as symbolic communication.
2. Women were not included since Gandhi felt that their presence would give him unfair
advantage over the British who would feel constrained about taking decisive action against a
group which included women. For details about the selection of marchers see Weber (1997: 90,
104–109).
3. For a detailed account of the Salt Satyagraha see Weber (1997) and for an analysis of
Gandhi’s communication strategy see Suchitra (1995).
4. See Masselos 1996: 191–194 and Roy 2007: 71–75 for detailed discussions of the Republic
Day Parade’s colonial and anti-imperialist lineages.
5. Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi re-enacted the march in 1991.
6. Details of Foley’s artistic approach retrieved 16 March 2014 from http://www.ndoyle
fineart.com/foley.html, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiona_Foley. Images of Foley’s work can
be seen at https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwr/ 28695845/in/set-647026
7. Details of DeLappe’s artistic approach retrieved 18 March 2014 from http://www.
delappe.net/words/artists-statement/. Daily accounts of DeLappe’s Salt March can be viewed at
http://saltmarchsecondlife.wordpress.com/2008/03/
References
Gandhi, M.K. 1999. The Collected Works of Mahatma Gandhi Vol. 49. New Delhi: Publications
Division. Retrieved 22 April 2014 from http://www.gandhiashramsevagram.org/
mkgandhi/cwmg/cwmg.html
Guha-Thakurta, Tapati. 1992. The Making of a New ‘Indian ‘Art: Artists, Aesthetics, and Nationalism in
Bengal c. 1850–1920. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
———. 2004. Monuments, Objects, Histories: Institutions of Art in Colonial and Postcolonial India. New
York: Columbia University Press.
Jain, Jyotindra. 2007. ‘India’s Republic Day Parade: Restoring Identities, Constructing the
Nation’, in Jyotindra Jain (ed.), India’s Popular Culture: Iconic Spaces and Fluid Images,
Marg 59(2): 60–75. Retrieved 26 March 2014 from http://www.thefreelibrary.com/
India’s+Republic+Day+Parade%3a+restoring+identities%2c+construction+the...-a
0174061913
Jain, Kajri. 2007. Gods in the Bazaar:The Economies of Indian Calendar Art. Durham: Duke University
Press.
Kalia, Ravi. 1994. Bhubaneshwar: From a Temple Town to a Capital City. Carbondale: Southern
Illinois University Press.
———. 1999. Chandigarh:The Making of an Indian City. New Delhi: Oxford University Press.
———. 2004. Gandhinagar: Building National Identity in Postcolonial India. Columbia: University of
South Carolina Press.
Lang, Jon, Madhavi Desai and Miki Desai. 1997. Architecture and Independence:The Search for Identity
– India 1880–1980. New Delhi: Oxford University Press.
Masselos, Jim. 1996. ‘India’s Republic Day: The Other 26 January’, South Asia 19(s1): 183–203.
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Mathur, Saloni. 2007. India by Design: Colonial History and Cultural Display. Berkeley: University
of California Press.
McGowan, Abigail. 2009. Crafting the Nation in Colonial India. New York: Palgrave Macmillan.
Nehru, Jawarharlal. (1946) 1986. The Discovery of India. New Delhi: Oxford University Press.
Phadke,Y.D. 2000. ‘Impact of the Great Depression and the Second World War on Agriculture and
Industry in the Bombay Presidency: 1929–1945’, in Meera Kosambi (ed.), Intersections: Sociocultural Trends in Maharashtra. New Delhi: Orient Longman, pp. 141–160.
Pinney, Christopher. 2004. Photos of the Gods: The Printed Image and Political Struggle in India.
London: Reaktion.
Roy, Srirupa. 2007. Beyond Belief: India and the Politics of Postcolonial Nationalism. Durham: Duke
University Press.
Singh, B.P. 1998. India’s Culture:The State,The Arts and Beyond. Delhi: Oxford University Press.
Suchitra. 1995. ‘Dandi March as Communication Strategy’, Economic and Political Weekly, April 8:
743–746.
Tarlo, Emma. 1996. Clothing Matters: Dress and Identity in India. Chicago: University of Chicago
Press.
Trivedi, Lisa. 2007. Clothing Gandhi’s Nation: Homespun and Modern India. Bloomington: Indiana
University Press.
Weber, Thomas. 1997. On the Salt March. New Delhi: Harper Collins.
Suchitra Balasubrahmanyan is Associate Professor at the School of Design,
Ambedkar University, Delhi, India. Her research interests centre on nineteenthand twentieth-century craft and design in the Indian subcontinent from
historical and sociological perspectives. Trained in communication design, her
practice focuses on issues of development, social justice and human rights in
India. She is co-author of The Shaping of Modern Gujarat: Plurality, Hindutva and
Beyond (Penguin 2005), Ahmedabad: From Royal City to Megacity (Penguin 2011)
and co-editor of Ahmedabad 600: Portraits of City (Marg 2011).
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CH APTER
7
Troubled Geography
Imagining Lebanon in 1960s Tourist Promotion
Zeina Maasri
At the turn of 1969, a peculiar advertisement appeared in The Economist issue
of 27 Dec.–2 Jan. (Fig. 7.1). The ad featured two attractive young women
posing fashionably in a prototypical Mediterranean beach setting on a perfectly sunny day. Their shimmering golden bikinis further intensify the sunshine while evoking the futuristic glamour of the day. Here’s an image that
would get anyone in the northern hemisphere dreaming of escape – at least
from the December freeze. The country advertised is one where you can
enjoy the much-desired sun, beach and associated fun, in utmost modernity.
This is Lebanon as represented in the 1960s and early 1970s by the Lebanese
Council for Tourism, a then newly established state agency. Shortly after the
appearance of the ad in The Economist, a Mr and Mrs Robertson wrote a letter
of complaint in the English periodical the New Statesman questioning: ‘Why is
a colour ad for the Lebanon running in last week’s Economist posed against the
Fraglioni of Capri?’1 Their public inquisition illustrates how this ad might have
stirred some confusion in the tourism imaginary of a Euro-American public
to whom it was addressed, assertively expressed here at least by the distrusting
couple.
The Economist ad and ensuing response provoke a series of questions concerning Lebanon’s tourism publicity at the time.To begin with, why would the
Lebanese state, by way of its Tourism Council and its agents – graphic designers included – choose to promote the country as a modern European-styled
Mediterranean tourist destination? And second, what does this image mean in a
context of conflicting politics of nationhood and belonging to the Arab world?
Notes for this section begin on page 139.
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Figure 7.1 Advertisement for Lebanon in The Economist, 27 Dec.–2 Jan. 1969–1970.
Designed by Mona Bassili Sehnaoui for The National Council of Tourism in Lebanon.
To answer these questions and untangle the politics that lay in the production and circulation of this ad, I shall take a close look at the promotional
prints issued by the National Council for Tourism in 1960s–1970s Lebanon.
My study unpacks the discursive and aesthetic implications of graphic design
by examining the tourism prints through two intersecting frameworks, that of
global modernity and that of postcolonial nation building. My analysis relates
the tourism prints first to the modernizing agenda of the state and its desire to
position Lebanon on the global map of emerging mass tourism, particularly
the one flourishing on the European side of the Mediterranean basin from the
French Riviera all the way to the Greek islands. Moreover, the Lebanese state in
the 1960s was keen on developing its tourism sector as it grew to become one
of the main national industries. As I will discuss, the Tourism Council sought
to substitute an older imaginary of Lebanon as a regional mountain summer
resort with images of modernity on the Mediterranean coast. At the outset, this
approach could be situated within a modernizing framework of the Lebanese
state that looked towards the ‘developed’ West for a tourism model to emulate.
However, the lens of global modernity becomes complicated once Lebanon’s
colonial history, its creation as a nation state and ensuing national identity politics are brought to the fore. Accordingly, I move to critically interrogate the
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Imagining Lebanon in 1960s Tourist Promotion
127
politics of a Mediterranean geography of belonging, especially in light of its
antagonistic relation to contemporary politics of Arab nationalism. My study
links the purported Mediterranean geography back to a dominant imaginary of
Lebanon expressed in the discourses of the country’s most influential nationalists.
I argue that Lebanon’s 1960s–1970s tourism prints, as mass-mediated modern
artefacts of visual culture, contributed to the discursive formation of a Lebanese
subjectivity premised on separatism from the Arab context, endorsing as such a
Westernized cosmopolitan character of the nation and its people.
Lebanon as a Summer Resort for the Arab East
Summer vacationing became a common practice in the newly formed state of
Lebanon during French colonial rule (1920–1943). Referred to as estivage, from
the French root été (summer) or villégiature (village), this designated the geography of Mount Lebanon as a summer resort. The touristic practice, very much
inscribed within the era’s European travels to the colonies, encouraged foreigners
living in the region to flee the heat of the summer on the coast or in the Arabian
hinterland and retreat to the freshness of the Lebanese mountains (Kfoury 1959:
276). Lebanon as a summer resort was encouraged by local authorities in coordination with the French Haut Commissariat (al-Hassan 1973: 31–32; Kassir 2003:
363–369) and promoted as such by related travel enterprises. Mount Lebanon
had its share of idyllic representations in guides such as the 1925 and 1928 editions of Guide de Villégiature du Mont Liban as well as in the famed colonial travel
posters of the period as part of the campaign ‘Liban et Syrie, Pays de Villégiature’
(Kassir 2003: 364–365; cf. Ghozzi 1997).
The practice of summer vacationing in the Lebanese mountains was also
taken up by an affluent Arab community, namely from Egypt, Palestine and
Iraq, who took seasonal summer residence in Mount Lebanon. Facilitated
by the new transportation networks, the trend gained currency in the 1930s
and 1940s, rendering Mount Lebanon a summer destination for the wider
Arab East including a domestic influx of wealthier Lebanese incoming from
the coastal cities (Kfoury 1959: 276–278; al-Hassan 1973: 31). Thus estivage
met its Arabic equivalent of istiyaf, from the root of the word sayf, meaning
summer.
The post-independence Lebanese state, recognizing the importance of this
growing economic sector, began to consolidate its efforts to develop, regulate
and promote Lebanon’s tourism. Al-mufawwadhiya al-‘amma lil’siyaha wal’istiyaf
(The General Office of Tourism and Summer Vacationing), founded in late 1948
as part of the Ministry of Economy, was the first serious government initiative
of the sort. Promotional prints published by the General Office further entertained the tourist imagination of Lebanon as a mountain summer resort. One
such poster, which can be dated to the early 1950s, is a case in point. The image
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Zeina Maasri
Figure 7.2 Poster ‘Lebanon, the summer resort of Arab countries’. C. early 1950s.
Designer anonymous. The General Office of Tourism and Summer Vacationing. Size:
70 × 100 cm lithography. Collection A. Bou Jaoudeh.
is a painted scene that captures an idyllic moment of a cool afternoon in the
quietude of the Lebanese mountains. An inviting table of fresh fruits, coffee and
an earthenware water pitcher are set in the context of an outdoor porch of vernacular Lebanese mountain architecture and complemented by the cool shades
of a vine tree. The composition is aesthetically akin to the practice of landscape
painting in modern art in Lebanon at the time, which was culturally intertwined
with nation building (Scheid 2005: chapter 3). In an intricate interplay of text
and image – and here I am borrowing Roland Barthes’ analysis of ‘Italianicity’
in the Panzani ad (1977: 34) – the title anchors the symbolic connotations of
‘Lebaneseness’ in the painted vista (ibid: 37–41). Set in Arabic calligraphy it reads:
‘Lebanon, the summer resort of Arab countries’.
L’Estivage se meurt, vive le tourisme
On 12 September 1955, an article with the headline ‘L’estivage se meurt, vive
le tourisme’ (summer vacationing is dying, long live tourism) appeared in the
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Imagining Lebanon in 1960s Tourist Promotion
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Francophone magazine La Revue du Liban. The author, Jean-Prosper Gay-Para,
a renowned figure behind many of the flourishing tourism services and business establishments in Lebanon at the time, declared the end of an era of mountain summer vacationing. In this article, and in more that followed, Gay-Para
appeals to a public of Lebanese readership to press for a paradigm shift in the
local tourism economy from a ‘monotonous traditional’ practice to a modern
one in tune with a burgeoning international tourism industry (Gay-Para 1962:
49–50).
Gay-Para presents four important reasons why this shift ought to occur.
The first, he claims, is new means of transportation. Affluent Arab visitors travelled by land to spend their summers in the Lebanese mountains. Now, with
commercial air travel they could go anywhere in Europe, which presented
serious competition that threatened Lebanon’s main tourism clients. However,
air travel, Gay-Para encourages his readers, should motivate Lebanon to reach
out to new tourists beyond the Arab region. The second reason concerns the
appeal of the beach as a new summer resort, gaining in popularity compared
with the mountains. Beach holidays offered modern and trendy leisure activities such as sunbathing, swimming and other water sports. The third pertains to
the development of hotels and the growth of the hospitality services, particularly in the coastal capital city Beirut, serving emerging business related travel
to Lebanon. Finally, Gay-Para concludes that the emergence of a modern youth
culture in the coastal cities, less conformist than in the mountain villages, promises ‘adventures’. Gay-Para’s prescient advice begins to explain the modern girls
on a beach scene in The Economist ad.The ‘Lebaneseness’ of the mountain resort
and its appeal to an Arab public, as we saw in an earlier poster, was replaced with
the modernity of the beach and the ‘adventures’ that it promises to an international public. This wider public is summoned by the mere act of placing an ad
in a periodical like The Economist.
The General Office of Tourism and Summer Vacationing is generally
credited with having paved the way for Lebanon’s tourism sector, through the
institution of new policies and the planning of major projects in the 1950s.
It established tourism information offices, a tourism police, a school of hotel
management, and refurbished archaeological sites, building the first ski resort
in Lebanon and a landmark casino, among other modern European-modelled
leisure activities. These projects already indicate a desire to share in the rising
global tourist economy of the mid-1950s. Lebanon joined the International
Federation of Tourism, and the Chairman of the Lebanese Tourism Office,
Michel Touma, presided over the International Federation from 1955 to 1956.
Studies suggest that the tourism industry grew to become one of the pillars
of Lebanon’s national economy (Kfoury 1959: 278–282). While the Office of
Tourism played an important transitional role in transforming the Lebanese
tourism economy, it was, however, the National Council of Tourism in
Lebanon (NCTL), a governmental organization borne out of administrative
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restructuring in the early 1960s, which strove to locate Lebanon on the global
map of mass tourism, as I shall discuss below.
Mobilizing Graphic Design: Communication Strategy
and Aesthetics
The NCTL was founded in 1962 with the aim of developing and modernizing
the tourism sector in Lebanon, with the following stated objectives: to establish
new tourism facilities and activities including tourism targeted at youth
markets; to promote tourism and to research and study the tourism market
(al-Hassan 1973: 47). A significant budget was allocated to the promotion of
tourism abroad, which was performed through offices opened by the NCTL
in major tourist markets mostly in European cities, in addition to one in New
York and another in Cairo.Writing in 1973, Hassan al-Hassan, director of what
was to become later the Ministry of Tourism, reproaches the NCTL for having
largely neglected the Arab market (al-Hassan 1973: 52). His criticism can be
corroborated by the abundance of promotional communication in foreign
languages (Italian, German, English and French) and the complete dearth of
Arabic. Breaking with its predecessor’s Arabic slogan ‘Lebanon: the summer
resort of Arab countries’, the NCTL rearticulated Lebanon’s tourism image and
discourse to a largely European public.
Initially the NCTL outsourced the creation and production of most of its
important publicity material. The Council commissioned professional photographers, including renowned international ones such as the travel photographer Fulvio Roiter, to document what it outlined as the main attractions
of Lebanon. Roiter’s photographs were first published in a 1967 book, Liban:
Lumiere des siècles (Lebanon: the Light of Centuries), complemented by the
text of Max-Pol Fouchet – another acclaimed travel writer – and produced in
Switzerland. The photographs were also used in a poster series for Lebanon,
which was produced by Draeger printers in Paris, yet another famed European
establishment.
In the late 1960s, however, the NCTL set up an in-house graphic design
department to handle all its promotional publications.The Council chose Mona
Bassili Sehnaoui to spearhead this new venture. Sehnaoui had just returned from
the USA, where she earned a Bachelor Degree in Communication Arts from the
University of Arizona. She was the first academically trained graphic designer
to set up a practice in Lebanon.Throughout her four-year tenure at the NCTL
from 1969 to 1972, Sehnaoui furnished the youthful image and modern aesthetic that Gay-Para advocated and that the Council sought to achieve in positioning Lebanon on the international circuit of tourism. Like anyone trained
in the USA or Europe at the time, she knew the formal guidelines of graphic
modernism.
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Imagining Lebanon in 1960s Tourist Promotion
131
The advocates of the ‘Swiss School’, otherwise known as ‘International
Modernism’, in the 1960s set out clear guidelines of what qualified as ‘modern’
and ‘universal’ graphic design (McCoy 1994). Sehnaoui used an underlying
modular grid to lay out graphical elements especially in text-heavy multi-page
publications, sets her texts in modern sans-serif ‘neutral’ typefaces like Helvetica
and its derivatives, resorts to graphic shapes based on basic geometry, and finally
ensures an abundance of white space in the composition to assert the desired
minimalist modern aesthetic. Sehnaoui also began to create a graphic identity
for the NCTL – another modernist design manoeuvre born out of the keen
spirit of systemization particularly favoured by large corporations of the time.
She designed a logo – still in use today with minor alteration – revising an older
calligraphic expression of the word ‘Lebanon’ in Arabic previously used by the
Council. And she created a set of graphical elements that were systematically
applied across a wide range of printed matter, which the NCTL employed in
its interface with the public.
Nonetheless, Sehnaoui’s initial training in Fine Art drawing and painting2
distinguished her work from the rational austerity of the ‘Swiss School’ and its
standardizing effect (cf. Good and Good 2001). While modernists favoured the
‘objectivity’ of modern photography over hand-drawn illustration (MoholyNagy 1999), Sehnaoui relied heavily on her own drawing skills, using a variety
of techniques to interpret and express her subject matter. Her more illustrative
approach personalizes and humanizes the modernist machine aesthetic.
Moreover, Sehanoui’s work for the Council can also be qualified as up-to-theminute in the fashionable sense of the term. Her flashy colours, graphic motifs
Figure 7.3 Series of leaflets containing touristic information using as a graphic
system a newly designed calligraphic logo for Lebanon. Designed by Mona Bassili
Sehnaoui for The National Council of Tourism in Lebanon. C. 1970. 18 × 10 cm
(closed). Collection of the designer.
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Zeina Maasri
and some of her display typography are reminiscent of 1960s youth pop culture,
namely the incorporation of psychedelic graphics into mainstream trends. The
NCTL stationery she conceived in flashy fuchsia pink and orange catches the
eyes like a huge psychedelic lollipop, as do a number of her tourism posters
and brochure covers (Fig. 7.4). In that sense, her graphic design affinities are
more akin to her New York contemporaries, the Push Pin studio and Milton
Glaser who, inspired by the graphic upsurge of a youthful counter culture, began
to challenge the Swiss legacy in mainstream graphic design practice in the
USA (Aynsley 2004: 152–155).
Generally, Sehnaoui’s design approach endows her tourism prints with
an aesthetic that expresses a particularly modern, youthful and fashionable
Lebanon; when once asked about her vibrant colour palette, she responded:
‘these were the Mary Quant years’ (Sehnaoui 2013). Thus, the British icon of
1960s fashion is recalled in Sehnaoui’s discussion of her own graphic work.
The intersection of style culture across design disciplines is particular to the
late 1960s period (Jobling and Crowley 1996: 214) but also telling of a context
in Beirut in which the ‘Mary Quant years’ resonated. This brings us back
to The Economist ad in the way that it foregrounds a certain style of fashion
photography, particularly how it stages two women striking active glamorous
Figure 7.4 Poster ‘Lebanon’. Designed by Mona Bassili Sehnaoui for The National
Council of Tourism in Lebanon. C. 1969. 34 × 50 cm. Collection of the designer.
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Imagining Lebanon in 1960s Tourist Promotion
133
poses. Samir Kassir writes of Beirut in the 1960s as the Arab capital for the
assimilation of the latest European fashion, where young girls paraded in miniskirts on the busy commercial streets of Beirut and in the universe of imported
and local magazines that adorned the city’s many bookshops (2003: 445–455).
Here, the modern myth of Beirut as the ‘Paris of the East’ seems to find some
degree of materiality at least in terms of fashion, an aspect that Sehnaoui and
the NCTL seemed to be keen to project.
Global Tourism on the Mediterranean
The geographic turn from the mountain to the beach in Lebanon was concomitant with a particular interest in the Mediterranean as a modern leisure site
in emerging mass tourism. The seductive images of a languorous yet modern
beach culture spread from St Tropez, Cannes and Nice to Capri. Nations
on the margins of the French and Italian Riviera sought to carve a space on
their shores to welcome the flourishing Mediterranean tourism economy.
Lebanon was no exception. The history of tourism promotion in countries
such as Greece and Spain indicates transformations in image rhetoric and tropes
corresponding to those experienced in Lebanon at the time (Emmanouil 2012;
Pelta 2011). These studies also concur that the new touristic image is inscribed
within modernizing frameworks, mostly state-led, seeking to challenge perceptions of Mediterranean societies as Europe’s traditional ‘other’. In his comparative study of the development of mass tourism in Spain and Tunisia in the
1960s and 1970s, Waleed Hazbun observes how the rising popularity of ‘sea,
sun and fun’ eventually led to the standardization of a generic form of Mediterranean tourism defined by northern European tastes (2009: 208).
The Lebanese case is perhaps no different than that of Spain, Greece and
Tunisia in the standardization incurred from efforts to modernize the tourism
sector and appeal to a northern European public.Yet, there seems to be more
at stake in Lebanon’s geo-touristic turn towards the Mediterranean, which
is not only constrained by the global tourism economy. Unlike Spain and
Greece, which form part of Europe, Tunisia and Lebanon’s Westward-looking
Mediterranean tourism complicates their cultural and political belonging to the Arab East. In Tunisia, beach tourism was seen as part of President
Bourguiba’s Western-oriented modernization and criticized as such by the
more conservative and religious communities (ibid: 213). In Lebanon, the case
differs slightly, due to the country’s multi-sectarian political structure, ruling
Christian elite and ensuing complicated identity politics, vis-à-vis its ties to
the Arab and Muslim East since its formation. As I will discuss in the following
section, the shift from mountain to coast bespeaks more than a story of global
modernity when examined in light of a genealogy of discourses of Lebanese
nationalism.
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Lebanon: The Switzerland of the East
Lebanon, as a modern nation state, is the result of colonial partition of the
Middle East in the aftermath of World War I. Historians of modern Lebanon
agree that, at the time of partitioning, the Christians – predominantly Maronites
of Mount Lebanon – were the only community that saw in Lebanon a sense
of national identification, an extension of their initial Christian refuge into
a viable modern homeland in the wider Muslim Arab East. Meanwhile, the
vast majority of Muslims and a significant community of other non-Maronite
Christians were voicing objections to the separation incurred by the newly
formed state and expressed Syrian or Arab nationalist identification (Salibi
1993: 169; Traboulsi 2007: 80–85).
As such, ensuing Lebanese nationalist discourses, articulated particularly by an elite of Christian intellectuals, are premised on a tight correspondence between the modern Lebanese nation and its embryonic political
geography – Mount Lebanon. Hence, the ‘Lebaneseness’ of the mountain
summer resort in the tourism advertisement discussed earlier in this chapter
projects more than a touristic vista. Here, tourism meets politics. ‘Lebanon,
a summer resort for the Arab countries’, as the title promised, is not outside
political inscriptions of the imagined nation. As a matter of fact, Lebanon’s
early nationalists envisioned Mount Lebanon’s touristic promise as integral to
nation building (Kassir 2003: 364; Traboulsi 2007: 92–93). In his 1924 book
Pour faire du Liban la Suisse du Levant (Making Lebanon into the Switzerland
of the Levant), Jacques Tabet presented the central arguments for developing Lebanon on the model of the Swiss Alps. He elaborates on the touristic
potential as part of a triad of political and economic conditions common
between the two countries. Like Switzerland, Lebanon – by way of its mountains – provides a climatic, aesthetic, therapeutic and leisurely escape for the
Arab East. His views were shared by a like-minded group of nationalist intellectuals, of which he formed a part, united around the Beirut-based La Revue
Phénicienne. The ‘new Phoenicianists’, as they were known, had been involved
in developing tourism in Mount Lebanon through the Syro-Lebanese Touring
Club, which they took part in founding in 1920 in close collaboration with
the French mandate (cf. Khoury 2008). Tabet’s treatise propelled and justified a wave of related political and economic policies, which would popularize the discourse of similarity under the myth of ‘Lebanon, the Switzerland
of the East’ (Traboulsi 2007: 92). Appropriating the image of Switzerland in
conceiving Lebanon’s national identity was part of a political desire to evoke
Lebanon’s particularism in the Arab East in which the mountain geography
played an important role. However, the same desire, I shall demonstrate below,
has engendered another nationalist discourse linking Lebanon to ancient
Phoenicia and mobilizing an altogether different geography: that of the
Mediterranean.
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Imagining Lebanon in 1960s Tourist Promotion
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Lebanon: The Cradle of Civilization
Similar to nation-building processes elsewhere in the world, modern nationalist discourses incorporate genealogical narratives of ancestry that justify the
existence of the newly formed state. This is what Benedict Anderson describes
as one of the three paradoxes of nationalism: ‘The objective modernity of
nations to the historian’s eye vs. their subjective antiquity in the eyes of nationalists’ (2006: 5). In the case of Lebanon, it was the resuscitation of glorious
Phoenicia that played a foundational role in the articulation of a Lebanese
nationalist discourse, which justified the expanded territory of the new nation
and aimed to distinguish the Lebanese from the Arab context. In his study of
the formation of a Lebanese identity in 1920s Lebanon, Kaufman traces the
phenomenon of what he refers to as the ‘Phoenician myth of origin’ (2014).
He observes how Lebanese intellectuals, informed by a nineteenth-century
French orientalist interest in ancient Phoenicia as an extension of Western land
on the Mediterranean, reclaimed Lebanon’s Phoenician ancestry. In doing so,
Kaufman argues, nationalists constructed a Lebanese genealogy linked to the
West and severed ties to the Arabs. The foundational text of Youssef al-Saouda,
one of the key intellectuals to which Kaufman refers, is important to cite in
the context of our discussion. Al-Saouda reminds us in his 1919 book Fi Sabil
Lubnan (For the Sake of Lebanon) that the Phoenicians were the forefathers
of Western culture and civilization and its disseminators in the Mediterranean
basin (Kaufman 2014: 61–62). In making his case for Phoenician ancestry and
Western genealogy, al-Saouda offers an allegory of Lebanon as ‘the cradle of
civilization’.The latter image is of particular relevance to a discussion about the
intersection between nation building and the geographic imaginary in tourism
promotion, as I mentioned above. However, al-Saouda’s discourse summons
another Lebanese subjectivity, excavated by way of the country’s Mediterranean
geography and history as an addition to that of Mount Lebanon.
Lebanon as ‘the cradle of civilization’ is a recurrent trope across all the promotional prints issued by the NCTL in the 1960s.Al-Saouda’s words are echoed
almost verbatim in the introductory texts of Lebanon’s tourism brochures and
guides. One of them, for instance, opens with the following text: ‘Lebanon,
with its 200 Km of coast, stretches along one side of the Mediterranean shore
and has always been a site where East meets West [. . .] The Phoenicians, considered the ancestors of the Lebanese, lived by the coast [. . .] At the height of their
civilization their alphabet spread across the Mediterranean basin’.3 The back of
the same brochure (Fig. 7.5), and that of several similar ones, features a cartographic map of Lebanon with a North-South locator that situates the country
in a Mediterranean geography. The latter is graphically rendered like some
generic ancient mythological map of the world.The reference to a PhoenicianMediterranean heritage is hard to miss and is capitalized on as a touristic attraction. The ‘cradle of civilization in the world’ is visually materialized through
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Figure 7.5 Back cover of a tourism brochure with a map of Lebanon and a NorthSouth locator framing the Mediterranean Sea. Designed by Mona Bassili Sehnaoui for
The National Council of Tourism in Lebanon. C. 1970. 21 × 23 cm. Collection of
the designer.
highlighting Roman and Phoenician archaeological sites at the expense of the
relatively more recent Islamic or Arab cultural heritage of the country’s major
cities. The centrality of the Roman ruins of Ba’alback in touristic imagery of
Lebanon constitutes a particular case in point. In his study of popular culture
and nationalism in Lebanon, Christopher Stone examines how the Ba’alback
International Festival established in the mid-1950s transformed the ancient
Roman ruins into a symbolic representation that stands for modern Lebanon.
Stone draws on Partha Chatterjee’s theory of the ‘classicization of tradition’ in postcolonial nation building (1993) to demonstrate how the festival
founders, in close correlation with the Lebanese state and associated nationalist intellectuals, claimed cultural connection to the ancient site (Stone 2008).
With highbrow international performances by the New York Philharmonic
Orchestra (1959), the Royal Ballet (1961 and 1964), the Opéra de Paris (1962),
and Miles Davis (1971), among others, staged in the majestic ruins of Ba’alback,
the Maronite national elite was keen to project, in Stone’s words, ‘a westward
looking nation that had reclaimed its original Phoenician role as a cultivator of
culture and civilization’ (Stone 2008: 32).
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Imagining Lebanon in 1960s Tourist Promotion
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Ba’alback indeed gets the lion’s share in promotion for Lebanon particularly
since the foundation of the NCTL in 1962. Unlike preceding campaigns
featuring inanimate majestic ruins, as was the case in French colonial travel
posters, in the Council’s posters the Ba’alback site is always actualized and
animated by the festival. I would add to Stone’s argument that this particular
imaging of modern Lebanon, in and through the Ba’alback site, was inscribed
within a larger discursive framework taking shape across all the tourism
promotion by the NCTL in the 1960s and through the early 1970s. While
Lebanon was being articulated as ‘the cradle of civilization’ in the mid-1950s in
the modern re-appropriation of the Ba’alback site, it was similarly and, I argue,
more widely articulated in the 1960s’ touristic turn towards the Mediterranean
coast. Here, we see that the beach site in The Economist ad tells us more than a tale
of global modernity. After all, the Mediterranean basin was Phoenician territory
par excellence. With this I turn to Michel Chiha, another member of the ‘New
Phoencianists’, astute banker and key francophone nationalist intellectual whose
linkage between the ancient Mediterranean Phoenician world and a purported
modern ‘Lebanese universalism’, I shall argue, discursively informs Lebanon’s
tourism promotion in the 1960s.
Lebanon’s Mediterranean Universalism
Geographic determinism provides the cultural and economic argument for
Michel Chiha’s modern Lebanon (Traboulsi 1999: chapter 2). He was influential
in defining a liberal economic model for Lebanon that is organized, like that
of old Phoenicia, around free trade and exchange across the Mediterranean
basin. Chiha retains as such, in a post-independence framework, al-Saouda’s
discourse of unity between mountain and sea in the imagined geography of
the nation (Trabousli 1999: 21) outlining accordingly the state’s economy
policies. However, Chiha diverges from al-Saouda and his colleagues in La
Revue Phénicienne who identify Lebanon, by way of its ancestral mountain, as a
Christian refuge and homeland. His ‘Phoenicianism’, Fawwaz Traboulsi asserts,
foregrounds a distinctly cosmopolitan cultural discourse of multi-sectarian
coexistence in the Mediterranean narrative maintained by the economic interest
of a ‘people of merchants’ (ibid: 45–46). In his seminal 1951 public lecture
‘Lebanon in the World’, Chiha transposes al-Saouda’s foundational concept of
Lebanon as the ‘cradle of civilization in the world’ from its historical framework
to a contemporary understanding of ‘Lebanese universalism’: ‘Our mission in
the historical world meets up with our mission in the geographical setting
[. . .] Our Calling for Universalism begins with the Mediterranean, when the
Mediterranean was the world’ (Chiha 1994: 136).
It is through the words of Chiha that the map of the Mediterranean on the
back of the tourism brochures reveals its subtext. In its geographic finitude and
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reference to old-style aesthetics the map graphically represents a return in time
to the Mediterranean as ‘the world’. Affixed on the back of a modern promotional pamphlet, it acts as a seal of authenticity that claims historical anteriority
to the promotion of Lebanon as a contemporary object. It implies visually ‘. . .
since antiquity’. Like Ba’alback, the Mediterranean here is culturally reclaimed
within Lebanon’s national narrative and actualized as a modern site of cosmopolitan leisure.
Conclusion
The touristic shift from the quietude of the mountain resort catering for an
Arab public to that of a globally tuned-in seascape is not simply the effect
of modernity’s standardization of the tourism industry on the Mediterranean.
As I have demonstrated, the two images are modern constructions that are
shaped by two distinct, yet linked, discursive moments in Lebanon’s nation
building process. Once viewed through this lens, the change in landscape reads
from ‘Lebanon, the Switzerland of the Levant’ to ‘Lebanon’s Mediterranean
Universalism’. Both statements articulate a Western oriented Lebanese subjectivity. However, the discourse of the latter lay at the crux of a modern cosmopolitan subjectivity centred on the coastal capital city Beirut, rather than the
parochial nationalism of Mount Lebanon (Hourani 1976).
The distinction between the mountain and the city in the articulation of
a modern Lebanese subjectivity brings us back to Gay-Para who had early on
pleaded for the move to the coastal city as a space for new leisure practices
open for adventures. Interestingly, towards the end of his article Gay-Para sums
up his arguments in a symbolic premonition: ‘After Ba’alback, Beirut should
be the next Geneva of the East’. Gay-Para here endorses Stone’s argument of
Ba’alback constituting a symbolic representation of a modern cosmopolitan
Lebanon. However, in Gay-Para’s discourse Ba’alback, is already a thing of the
past. Beirut, on the other hand, is the future. After all, the quintessential expression of Lebanese cosmopolitanism in the 1960s revolved around ‘Beirut (not
Lebanon), the Paris (not Switzerland and not Geneva) of the East’.
Consequently, this chapter reveals how graphic design is implicated in the
discursive articulation of nationhood, in the way that a hegemonic conception
of the nation is materialized in, and circulated through, chosen images, graphics and aesthetics. The case of Lebanon presents us with new understandings
of how design for the tourism industry intersects with political processes of
nation building, modernization and globalization in postcolonial contexts. It
demands new questions and transcultural frameworks that complicate a putative binary between the West and non-West in design historiography. Rather
than looking for the ‘Lebanese’ as a reified form of non-Western national identity in design, it is more pertinent to ask what the ‘Paris of the East’ looked like
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Imagining Lebanon in 1960s Tourist Promotion
139
in the aesthetic and cultural materialization of a particular discourse of nationhood in Lebanon.
(PS. could someone please tell Mr and Mrs Robertson that it was not the
Fraglioni of Capri that The Economist ad staged! With some imagination they
should be able to see a chimera of Brigitte Bardot on the [Lebanese] Riviera.
I am referring here to Bardot’s sultry 1956 film debut in ‘. . . And God Created
Woman’ set in St-Tropez and to her domestically hailed visit to Lebanon ten
years later.)
Notes
The author wishes to express special thanks to Mona Sehnaoui, for opening her archive and for
sharing memories of her early career as a graphic designer, and to Paul Jobling, Khaled Malas and
the editors, Kjetil Fallan and Grace Lees-Maffei, for their valuable comments on earlier drafts of
this chapter.
1. The director of Touristic Promotions in Lebanon responded to this enquiry in the New
Statesman on 23 January 1970, reassuring the couple and English readers that this is indeed a
picture taken in Beirut, Lebanon.
2. During her residency in Alexandria, Mona Bassili Sehnaoui attended the Sylvio Bicchi
Academy from 1957 to 1960 and trained in tempera technique in the studio of an Italian painter,
based in Alexandria, named Sebasti. In 1962 she joined the Fine Arts programme at the American
University of Beirut for two years before moving to complete her studies in Communication Arts
at the University of Arizona, Tuscon in 1964.
3. Translated from French by the author.
References
Anderson, B. (1983) 2006. Imagined Communities: Reflections on the Origin and Spread of Nationalism.
London:Verso.
Aynsley, J. 2004. Pioneers of Modern Graphic Design: a Complete History. London: Mitchell Beazley.
Barthes, R. 1977. Image, Music,Text. London: Fontana Press.
Chatterjee, P. 1993. The Nation and its Fragments: Colonial and Postcolonial Histories. Chichester:
Princeton University Press.
Chiha, M. 1994. Lebanon at Home and Abroad. Beirut: Fondation Michel Chiha.
Emmanouil, M. 2012. Graphic Design and Modernisation in Greece, 1945–1970. PhD Thesis, The
Royal College of Art / Victoria and Albert Museum.
Gay-Para, J.P. 1962. L’Evolution Touristique du Liban 1951–1962. Beirut: n.p.
Ghozzi, A. 1997. The Orientalist Poster: A Century of Advertising through the Slaoui Foundation
Collection. Casablanca: Malika Editions.
Good, J.V. and P. Good. 2001. ‘Is Functionalism Functional? The Relationship Between Function
and Purity?’, in D.K. Holland (ed.), Design Issues: How Graphic Design Informs Society. New
York: Allworth Press, pp. 83–91.
Hassan, H. al-. 1973. Al-siyaha fi lubnan: madhiyan wa hadhiran wa mustakbalan (Tourism in Lebanon:
Past, Present and Future). Beirut: Salim Press.
Hazbun, W. 2009. ‘Modernity on the Beach: A Postcolonial Reading from Southern Shores’,
Tourist Studies 9: 203–222.
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Hourani, A. 1976. ‘Ideologies of the Mountain and the City’, in R. Owen (ed.), Essays on the Crisis
in Lebanon. London: Ithaca Press, pp. 33–41.
Jobling, P. and D. Crowley. 1996. Graphic Design: Reproduction and Representation Since 1800.
Manchester: Manchester University Press.
Kassir, S. 2003. Histoire de Beyrouth, Paris: Fayard.
Kaufman, A. (2004) 2014. Reviving Phoenicia:The Search for Identity in Lebanon. London: IB Tauris.
Kfoury, J. 1959. ‘Liban, pays de tourisme’, Revue de géographie de Lyon 34: 271–284.
Khoury, A. 2008. ‘L’histoire de la fondation de l’ATCL’. Retrieved 3 May 2014 from http://www.
atcl.org/?sec=4
McCoy, K. 1994. ‘Rethinking Modernism, Revising Functionalism’, in M. Bierut, et al. (eds),
Looking Closer: Critical Writings on Graphic Design. New York: Allworth Press, pp. 49–51.
Moholy-Nagy, L. 1999. ‘Typophoto (1925)’, in M. Bierut, J. Helfland and R. Poynor (eds), Looking
Closer 3: Classic Writings on Graphic Design. New York: Allworth Press, pp. 24–26.
Pelta, R. 2011. ‘Visit Spain: The Image of Spain in the State’s Tourist Poster (1928–1975)’, The
Poster 2: 109–146.
Salibi, K.S. (1965) 1993. The Modern History of Lebanon, 3rd edn. New York: Caravan Books.
Scheid, K. 2005. Painters, Picture-Makers, and Lebanon: Ambiguous Identities in an Unsettled State. PhD
Dissertation, Princeton University.
Sehnaoui, M. 2013. In an interview with the author, Beirut, 26 August.
Stone, C. 2008. Popular Culture and Nationalism in Lebanon: The Fairouz and Rahbani Nation.
London: Routledge.
Tabet, J. 1924. Pour faire du Liban la Suisse du Levant: apercu sur les conditions politiques, economiques et
touristiques des deux pays. Paris: Ramlot.
Traboulsi, F. 1999. Silat bila wasl: Michel Chiha wa’l-idiyulujiyya al-lubnaniyya (Connections Without
Connectors: Michel Chiha and the Lebanese Ideology). Beirut: Riad El-Rayyes Books.
———. 2007. A History of Modern Lebanon. London: Pluto Press.
Zeina Maasri is Associate Professor of Graphic Design at the American
University of Beirut, Lebanon and doctoral candidate at the University of
Brighton. Her research is concerned with the history of design and visual
culture in the modern Middle East. She is the author of Off the Wall: Political
Posters of the Lebanese Civil War (IB Tauris 2009) and co-editor of Mapping
Sitting: On Portraiture and Photography (Arab Image Foundation 2002).
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CH APTER
8
Czech Glass or Bohemian Crystal?
The Nationality of Design in the Czech Context
Marta Filipová
For over a century, ‘Czech’ and ‘Bohemian’ have been attributes ascribed to
various glass objects which come from today’s Czech Republic. These terms
have often been used as synonyms to describe the same geographical, historical
or national origins of utility or decorative glass. Yet they are not identical because
they carry significance provided mainly by the political context in which they
have appeared. Glass can in this sense be seen as a pertinent example of how
academic, popular and consumer awareness of design has relied on the understanding that design and its interpretations are framed and influenced by the
geopolitical circumstances in which the very objects or theories were created.
Many design exhibitions and publications have explicitly addressed specific
historic moments. One of the latest volumes on Czech glass, New Formations,
Czech Avant-Garde Art and Modern Glass from the Roy and Mary Cullen Collection,
maintains that exhibitions are witnesses of their times, as they highlight
previously unknown or inaccessible works as well as novel political, historical
and geographical areas to new audiences (Srp et al. 2011: 9). At the heart of
this exhibition’s catalogue is the Cullen Collection which features not only the
works of now more or less well known avant-garde artists from Czechoslovakia,
like Karel Teige, Jindřich Štýrský or Toyen (aka Marie Čermínová), but also a
collection of Czech modern glass, consisting of moulded and blown vases and
other glass objects. Focusing on the period between 1900 and the 1930s, it
contains ‘more than three hundred superb pieces, mostly of ornamental glass,
and documents the stylistic development of Czech glass during this critical
period’ (Mergl 2011: 266).
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This period, i.e. the beginning of the twentieth century, is often identified
in art and design literature as the height of Central European modernism, in
which local responses to the international modern movement took different
national forms (Mansbach 2001; Wilk 2008; Benson 2002). In this context, the
contributors to New Formations discuss Czech glass as an established category
alongside those of the Czech avant-garde and Czech modernism. However,
Czech glass, and Czech design, are misleading concepts with serious limitations.
They suggest that there is an inherent and permanent quality and character to
the works, which is related to the national or cultural identity of the Czechs.
This understanding of Czech art and design and Czech national identity is
static; it disregards the historical and political complexities that affected the
notion of a cultural and national consciousness in Bohemia.
While it has now been acknowledged that the Czechness of Czech
modernist art and avant-garde is flawed – for it is impossible, as well as redundant,
to discriminate specially national features – the concept of Czech design seems
to be more resilient. One important factor is commercial, as Czech design
can be used as a brand name, yet there are also historical, political and cultural
reasons for retaining the notion of national specificity in design.
This chapter examines Czech glass and the construction of a political
identity in design, whether national, cultural or ethnic. Glass is here understood
as indicative of more general trends in the interpretation of local, regional
and national design in the global context, and as a concrete example of the
impact of the specific geopolitical circumstances on our understanding of the
authenticity of this phenomenon. I focus on theoretical and historical aspects
rather than stylistic and aesthetic developments in Czech and Bohemian glass
and design. The culturally and nationally specific features of glass and design
in the contemporary context require examination of the convoluted and
contested history, interpretations and institutions of what is today the Czech
Republic. A careful study of such politically charged narratives of glass aims
to unpack the myth behind Czech, Bohemian and even Czechoslovak glass
and point to the continued importance of national contexts in which design
appears. At the same time, the case study of glass from Bohemia points to the
legacy of international modernity, which is largely responsible for establishing
the nationality of design. The text therefore aims to highlight the existence of
the globally accepted narratives in which nationally specific items have become
a successful commodity as well as a subject unchallenged for a long time.
Designing Czech Identity
Regular references to ‘Czech design’ and ‘Czech glass’ by designers, scholars
and traders alike assume an inherently Czech aspect to design and glass. Design
therefore becomes a form of tradition that can be preserved, revived and
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The Nationality of Design in the Czech Context
143
even invented (Hobsbawm and Ranger 1984). It is a complex of collective
values which have either survived from the past or have been recreated in the
present with a particular significance (Hobsbawm 1984; Eyerman and Jamison
1998: 26–44). This tradition is an invention of nineteenth-century national
and ethnic recoveries of various groups, in this case of the Czech national
revival movement. Such traditions of art and design can contribute to a sense of
unity and connectedness among groups of people by reminding them of their
common heritage. Glass, which has been produced in Bohemia for centuries,
has been identified with such a heritage. Its long history and national and
international recognition meant that manufacturers, traders, designers and
scholars have accepted it as embedded in local traditions and have, therefore,
ascribed to it qualities fitting economic, cultural and political goals in different
periods. The ‘Czechness’ of Czech glass has thus become a constant in the
Figure 8.1 Vratislav Hugo Brunner, A glass with Prague motives, 1922, The Museum
of Decorative Arts, Prague, inv. no. 86.506. Photo courtesy of The Museum of
Decorative Arts, Prague.
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Marta Filipová
ever-changing historical and political circumstances that the geographical
area, from which it is believed to have originated, experienced. Czech glass
has appeared in a number of diverse ideological contexts such as the national
revival, democratic systems and communism.
Moreover, close connections between the notion of design, constructed
as a modernist concept, and the modernist interpretation of nations and
nationalism become apparent. Eric Hobsbawm, Benedict Anderson and
Anthony Smith have shown that nations are inventions of modernity which
mobilize popular consciousness in order to cope with modern conditions and
political imperatives (Hobsbawm and Ranger 1984; Anderson 1991; Smith
1998: 224). Arts and crafts formed part of a shared cultural heritage and were an
important vehicle in such modern myth-making.
Simultaneously, the idea of design underwent a conceptual transformation
as a result of industrialization and the creation of new states during the second
half of the nineteenth and first half of the twentieth century. Design is often
understood as a product of modernity, or modernist ideology, and can be
linked with the historical period of rapid industrial development, technological
innovation, rejection of the old and desire for creating novel forms.
To understand the codification of nationally, historically or regionally
specific design in relation to Czech and Bohemian glass, I need to review some
oft-used terminological, historical and geographical references (Agnew 2004;
Sayer 1998; Pánek and Tůma 2009). ‘Bohemia’, or the lands of the Bohemian
crown, frequently refers to a region in Central Europe dating back to the
mediaeval kingdom of Bohemia which survived as a legal entity, in modified
form, until 1918.The first Slavic groups, to which the Czechs belonged, arrived
in the area of Bohemia in the sixth and seventh century, but they were far from
the only ethnic group in the region. A substantial German minority shared
the territories of Bohemia with the Czechs in various political entities for
centuries: medieval kingdoms, the Habsburg monarchy, of which Bohemia was
part from the sixteenth century, and the interwar republic of Czechoslovakia.
Mobilization of national consciousness amongst many ethnic groups across
Europe in the nineteenth century significantly changed the cohabitation of
the two ethnicities. Small nations that were often part of multi-ethnic and
multi-national states were especially active in defining and redefining their
identities in order to gain political recognition and, in many cases, autonomy.
Finns, Norwegians, Romanians and Scots sought to define their national
geographical boundaries as well as their cultural traits (Facos and Hirsch 2003).
In the Habsburg monarchy, Hungarians and Poles started recovering their
respective histories and cultures in order to emphasize their position within the
Empire (Crowley 1992; Muthesius 1994; Schneider 2006). Hungarian efforts
successfully led to the Austrian compromise of 1867 in which Hungary was
given a number of privileges, including an autonomous parliament and various
ministries.
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The Nationality of Design in the Czech Context
145
In Bohemia, too, Czech political, cultural and intellectual leaders started
reassessing local history for evidence of authentically Czech language, art and
heritage in order to secure greater independence from the Austrian authorities.
Institutions including theatres, public offices, academic and educational societies
and institutes started using the Czech language, and new journals, newspapers
and books promoted a wider use of the language at all levels of society.
This language-based nationalism influenced many aspects of subsequent
interpretations of the history and geography of the Czech nation and of art
and design. ‘Czech lands’ is sometimes used as a synonym for Bohemia but
it is, in fact, an even less fixed concept referring to the territories inhabited
by Czech speakers. The status of the Czech language as a mother tongue was
both mythicized and sanctified through its resurrection and codification during
the national revival of the nineteenth century, and through emphasis on its
historical pedigree (Sayer 1998: 107).
Other forms of tradition, especially the arts, became markers of the
historical and cultural independence of the Czechs in the nineteenth century.
The political, ethnic and cultural competition of the nineteenth and early
twentieth century between the Czechs and Germans in the Czech lands
therefore impacted the way art and design was interpreted. The notion of
authentic Czech art and applied arts (and later design) became increasingly
important, as it contributed to the sense of historicity and long-lasting legacy
of the Czech nation in the geographical area of Bohemia. The origins of the
regionally and culturally specific references to glass as Czech or Bohemian can
therefore be traced back to this potent period of the Czech national revival of
the nineteenth century.
Czech, Bohemian, or Czechoslovak: The Histories
and Geographies of Glass
Even today, publications and exhibitions use the notion of Czech glass as a
historical, cultural, economic and geographical category, which is often replaced
or mixed with Bohemian and even Czechoslovak attributes. Czech Glass
1945–1980: Design in an Age of Adversity is a pertinent example (Ricke 2005).
Otherwise critically aware of the political and historical influences on glass in this
region, the author of the introduction refers to Bohemian glass, Czechoslovak
glass and Czech glass almost interchangeably and without acknowledgement
of the subtle, yet important differences. Readers are left to infer underlying
distinctions between Bohemian glass (glass from the geographical region of
Bohemia, inhabited by both Czechs and Germans), Czech glass (produced by
Czech nationals or speakers), and Czechoslovak glass (a concept that appeared
after World War I, used to refer to a politically affected notion that glass received
both in the interwar republic and the post-World War II communist state).
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146
Marta Filipová
Figure 8.2 Vase, manufactured by Johann Lötz Witwe, Klášterský Mlýn, 1908. Roy
and Mary Cullen Collection. Photo courtesy of The Museum of Fine Art, Houston.
The geographically denominated glass, deemed as Czech, is often referred
to as coming from the ‘heart of Europe’, at the ‘cross-roads of European trade
routes’ (Petrová and Olivie 1990: 12). It is not a coincidence, however, that the
main glassworks were concentrated in the border regions of Bohemia, which
had a substantial German population (Fig. 8.2). Geographical notions are
supplemented, therefore, by history. Until the radical expulsion of the Germans
after World War II, glass factories in, for instance, Karlovy Vary (or Karlsbad in
German) in eastern Bohemia, and Jablonec, Harrachov and Kamenický Šenov
in the north of Bohemia, were mostly owned by Germans who controlled the
economy in these border areas (Ricke 2005: 27; Newhall 2008: 13–28). Czechs
were often employed as factory workers until 1938 when they were pushed
inland after the annexation of Sudetenland by Germany. The term ‘Bohemian’
thus contains not only a geographical reference but also an acknowledgment of
German ethnicity in the territory.
Between World War I and II, during the era of the democratic Czechoslovak
state which officially united the Czechs and Slovaks, glass – just like art, language
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The Nationality of Design in the Czech Context
147
or the concept of a nation – adopted a new political dimension when it was
linked with the adjective ‘Czechoslovak’. The artificial Czechoslovak identity
referred to the new composition of the political state, aimed at promoting
the joint interests of the two Slavic groups and creating a single majority to
outnumber the substantial Germans and Hungarian minorities. The joint
Czechoslovak identity was based on the belief that the Czechs and Slovaks
had lived together in a particular location and were connected not only by the
redrawn political boundaries but also by the idea of a shared and geographicallydetermined history and culture (Smith 1991: 117).
Predominantly Czech politicians, linguists, historians and art historians
looked for proofs that the Czechs and Slovaks had been in close contact during
the centuries leading up to the events of 1918 or that, indeed, they were members
of a single ethnic group. Yet despite the frequent use of Czechoslovakism in
various political and cultural contexts, especially in the 1920s, the concept was
synonymous with Czech identity, and marginalized the Slovak one. Period
discussions of Czechoslovak history or language overwhelmingly referred to
the Czech context, while histories of Czechoslovak culture were often limited
to the Czech-speaking territories. This emphasis on the Czech element in the
new Czechoslovak identity, which included prioritizing Czech art and design,
was a part of the construction of the Czechoslovak myth which consisted in
the promotion of a vision of Czechoslovakia to international audiences as a
modern, democratic state of a single nation (Orzoff 2009). Although initially
accepted by few Slovak politicians, such a view represented a Czech position
and benefitted from the lack of equivalent resources in Slovak. Eventually, it led
to a dissatisfaction on the part of the Slovaks and to an increase in nationalistic
sentiments calling for Slovak autonomy.
Similarly, the category of Czechoslovak glass, used by historians, journalists
and art critics, was predominantly limited to the glass production of Bohemia,
even though there were many glassworks in Slovakia. Czechoslovak glass can
therefore be understood as a purely artificial and politically motivated concept.
According to Susanne K. Frantz in Czech Glass, ‘after hundreds of years of
foreign domination it is understandable that a population seeks to be identified
as a national group’, which translated into the need to create a sense of Czech
(Czechoslovak, or even Bohemian) glass (Frantz 2005: 15). Such an approach
was in fact part of a more general trend in Czech historiography and echoed
an established belief that the Czech nation suffered for hundreds of years under
oppression of external powers, whether Austrian, German or Soviet. The idea
that the Czech nation was victimized, strongly promoted in the Czech national
revival of the nineteenth century, was also defended during the interwar period
by, for instance, President Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk, as well as in post-World
War II communist rhetoric (Pynsent 1994). This justified an emphasis upon
those aspects of the Czech character (and art and design), which may be
interpreted as uniquely Czech, to prove that the Czechs, despite the external
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Marta Filipová
adversities, managed to retain an independent identity that constituted their
nationhood.
National traits of design had therefore already been established during the
interwar period and the ‘Czechness’ of Czech and Czechoslovak glass had long
been emphasized as one of the constituents of national identity. In 1933, Alois
Metelák, an architect and glass designer, described the national qualities of glass,
in which ‘each nation imprinted some of its soul and its sentiments. Italians
[imprinted] their lightness, French their elegance, Swedes their seriousness,
Germans their technical perfection’. For him, Czech glass was typical of the
sense of colour, harmony of shapes, liveliness and, like all glassmaking, it grew
out of local traditions and the homeland (Metalák 1933: 5). Thus national
stereotypes were projected into analyses of contemporary and historic artefacts
which were compared, as much as nations, for their originality and timeless
features.
The Postwar Political Mosaic
After World War II, changes in the political and economic system of
Czechoslovakia affected the construction of the notion of Czech (and
Czechoslovak) glass. Czechoslovak manufacturing was turned to heavy
industry, which impacted the production of consumer goods, including glass.
A number of glassworks in the border regions of Bohemia were closed down
and many workshops and factories faced decline. This began immediately after
the war primarily because of the forced expatriation of ethnic Germans from
the Sudetenland and the nationalization of the glasswork trade. Moreover, a
centralized monopoly for foreign trade, Skloexport, was created in 1947 to
facilitate the export of glass (Franz 2005: 30).
The almost exclusive identification of glass as craft, prevalent in the
nineteenth century, underwent a transformation: glass objects, especially
monumental sculptural and architectural pieces, were increasingly classified as
products of design and fine art rather than craft. Accomplished glass sculptures
had already begun to appear between the wars when the split in glassmaking
started becoming prominent. At the same time, craft making carried with it
connotations of the production, however skilled, of pre-industrial society, and
the nineteenth century industrialization of the factories in Bohemia gave birth
to a new category of utility glass. In the twentieth century, it was produced
en masse and became highly commercial, yet, a number of artists, designers
and theorists in the interwar period tried to introduce aesthetic values into
everyday objects. The commercial orientation continued in the 1950s, when
glass industry manufacture grew even more conservative, hand production
decreased and a number of specialized schools in the border regions closed
down (Ricke 2005: 31).
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The Nationality of Design in the Czech Context
149
National and international institutions, especially museums and exhibitions
such as world’s fairs and expos, played a key role in promoting glass as having
authentic Czech qualities, and establishing Czech glass as a distinguished and
sought after design category. Czech and Bohemian glass had been displayed and
sold to the world at international art and trade exhibitions since the nineteenth
century. The Great Exhibition of 1851 in London featured an extensive and
influential collection of glasswork from Bohemia; the Parisian expositions
universelles of 1879, 1889 and 1900 displayed Moser glass from Karlovy Vary,
while a ‘tastefully arranged and beautiful exhibit’ of glass from Bohemia was
shown as far as at the International Exhibition in Launceston,Tasmania in 1891
(Tallis 2011: 202; Anon. 1891: 3).
The prominence and importance of glass displays continued into the
twentieth century with Bohemian and Czechoslovakian participation at the
Louisiana Purchase Exhibition of 1904, Paris (1925 and 1937), Brussels (1935)
and others. Glass contributed to the promotion of the small emergent nation
at these important international events, it represented ‘the most important
tradition of national creative production’ and informed ‘the wider public about
Czech glass and its benefits’ (Langhamer 1992: 112).
The political role of glass exhibitions became especially prominent after
WorldWar II and the communist coup of 1948 that strengthened Soviet influence
over Czechoslovakia. Postwar expos became crucial places where encounters
between so-called east and west took place. They provided opportunities for
states on both sides of the Iron Curtain to showcase their achievements and
to learn about other countries’ production. The politically tense 1950s were a
particularly important decade for the formulation of a concept of Czech and
Czechoslovak glass which still persists today. On the one hand, glass further
developed into a successful commercial and exported product, while on the
other, it became a more liberal and artistic medium. As the latter, it was not
meant for mass production or consumption and after Stalin’s death in 1956, a
certain degree of free artistic input was allowed, and some artists and designers
travelled abroad to encounter the work of others (Wasmuth 2005: 86).
Understood as both utilitarian and studio/art glass, Czechoslovak glass
appeared internationally for the first time since World War II at the 11th Triennial
in Milan in 1957.This was a carefully orchestrated presentation, prepared by the
communist authorities and a small selection of coordinators, of how modern
Czechoslovak glass should be marketed to international audiences (Havránek
et al. 2008). The display emphasized artistic quality and won several prizes
(Nováková 2012). The exhibition category of so-called industrial products,
under which design was most often classified, was given not just an economic
or material role but also an aesthetic and cultural one.
Design thus became a part of the socialist myth and a tool of political
and cultural propaganda during the Cold War (Crowley 2000; McDonald
2010; Castillo 2010). Czech or Czechoslovak glass served as an expression
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Marta Filipová
of the communists’ soft power, used to attract and entice audiences (Nye
1990). International exhibitions therefore provided a great opportunity for
propaganda and the subtler politicized agendas contained in art and design
objects. Together with other articles of industrial design, glass was assigned a
‘special political promise’, because it was seen as having the potential to improve
living standards at home and to bring back hard currency as a successful export
item (Giustino 2012: 189). It also served as proof of the high quality of local
design and workmanship which was still affordable for the ordinary people of
Czechoslovakia. According to a contemporary commentator in a Czechoslovak
communist journal that echoed the official position, the high quality of the
objects of everyday use, including utility glass, influenced and demonstrated how
demanding and educated the common, working-class folk of Czechoslovakia
were (Spurný 1958: 3).
At post-World War II exhibitions, ‘Czechoslovak glass’ was developed into a
recognized brand that was presented internationally as a successful achievement
of the communist state and its workers. Manufactured from local resources and
embedded in a long national tradition, glass was presented as ‘the most truly
Czechoslovak of all artistic media’ (Wasmuth 2005: 87). This agenda became
apparent at the Brussels Expo of 1958 and at the Czechoslovak Glass Exhibition
in Moscow the following year. In Brussels, especially, Czechoslovak glass received
much appreciation and recognition. Apart from the obligatory showcases of
industries and trade, the Czechoslovak entry consisted of displays of design directly
recalling the legacy of interwar modernism. This so-called Thaw Modernism
of the Khrushchev era was, nevertheless, marked by a contradiction in that it
tried to create a modern civilization that differed from Western capitalism, while
also accepting models and standards from global Western modernity (Crowley
2000: 145; Péteri 2004: 114). In the context of an international world’s fair, the
Czechoslovak state apparatus adopted a Western, modern exhibition model to
promote the products of its socialist manufactures and studios.
The Czechoslovak artistic exhibit at the 1958 Expo therefore conformed
to this marriage of the so-called Western and Eastern. By reconnecting with
international modernism in, for example, the architecture of the Czechoslovak
pavilion, the exhibition also presented new cinematic and performance techniques, including ‘The Magic Lantern’ and the ‘Polyecran’. Small-scale glass
objects and utility glass, such as vases, plates and crystal, were for sale or available to order from the Czechoslovak export office. Collective achievements in
socialist glassmaking and production were emphasized more than the designers of these objects (Wasmuth 2005: 90–91). This was a result of the previously mentioned post-World War II reorganization of the glass workshops, the
establishment of artists’ societies and the creation of a trade monopoly, which
stressed the collective input into glass making.
Subsequent expos and international exhibitions mostly repeated or refined
the narratives of Czechoslovak glass that were established so strongly in the
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The Nationality of Design in the Czech Context
151
Figure 8.3 Stanislav Libenský – Jaroslava Brychtová, A composition in grey, 1965.
The Museum of North Bohemia, Liberec. S3331. Photo courtesy of The North
Bohemian Museum, Liberec.
1950s and glass continued to be influenced by politics.Yet, a certain stagnation
occurred in the 1960s; utility glass designers ceased experimentation in order to
meet the state production quota (Ricke 2005: 127). Studio artists, on the other
hand, continued working with monumental art and combinations of materials
and abstraction. Participation at expos and world’s fairs therefore remained
crucial for artistic confrontation, the exchange of ideas and the establishment
of contacts.
The brief attempt at the democratization of communism in the mid1960s, the Prague Spring and the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968
also influenced the way in which Czech and Czechoslovak glass was presented.
At the 1970 Expo in Osaka several monumental glass pieces contained a direct
political message. The now established artistic duo Libenský – Brychtová
displayed a glass relief, ‘The River of Life’, featuring people being carried away
by a stream of water which bore footprints of Soviet military boots (Petrová
2007: 337; Langhamer 1992: 187).This piece evoked sympathy and international
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152
Marta Filipová
recognition for the couple, and persecution from the Czechoslovak communist
authorities.
The normalization that followed the few liberal years of the late 1960s
meant that participation at international exhibitions was limited and carefully
orchestrated. However, the representative feature of glass remained to dominate
both international and domestic markets. In Czechoslovakia, artists and designers
often worked on apolitical commissions for state-paid public buildings, such as
hotels, factories or theatres (Petrová 2007: 845).
Although the political events of the second half of the twentieth century
impacted the presentation and content of Czechoslovak exhibits abroad, the
notion of Czechoslovak and Czech glass remained largely unaffected. Following
the Velvet Revolution of 1989 and the creation of the Czech Republic and
Slovakia in 1992, however, glass manufacturers in Bohemia underwent another
substantial transformation. The large national companies and the communist
era monopoly were terminated and factories were privatized or returned to
their original owners. Yet, some of the large share-holding companies created
in the Czech Republic in the early 1990s fell victim to the post-1989 volatile
economic climate. Simultaneously, small and large producers of ‘Czech glass’
re-emerged. Utility glass once again became an important export product, as
well as a popular tourist purchase.
Conclusion
The making of Czech, Czechoslovak and Bohemian glass as both an object
and a notion has for a long time been linked to the domestic national tradition,
established in the period of modernity and national revivals in Central Europe
at the end of the nineteenth century and the first half of the twentieth century.
Narratives concerning glass produced in interwar Czechoslovakia, deemed
as a modern and democratic state, were reinforced for political and export
purposes after World War II when glass, both studio and utility, became an
export commodity and thus a political tool. The geopolitical, historical and
cultural circumstances that helped to form the idea of Czech glass have been
closely linked to the attempts to consolidate a strong sense of national identity
for both domestic and foreign audiences for more than a century. Even today
Czech and Bohemian glass function as important domestic brands and popular
tourist souvenirs.
Contemporary exhibitions of glass, usually in Prague, contribute to the
popularity of Czech glass among general and specialized audiences. In 2012 and
2013 alone, the Museum of Decorative Arts held seven exhibitions in Prague
that upheld the concepts of Bohemian and Czech glass, understood as cut
glass produced in the geographical territory of Bohemia and the artistic and
studio production of Czech artists in the post-World War II period respectively
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The Nationality of Design in the Czech Context
153
Figure 8.4 Glass as a touristic attraction in Prague, photograph, 2014. Author’s
collection.
(exhibitions). While the complex history and the political background of the
concepts’ development may not seem important in the current context of
the globalized design market, both the adjectives Czech and Bohemian carry
significance that contributes, perhaps unconsciously, to the aura of uniqueness
and authenticity of such glass. This case study has revealed how ideologically
charged national design histories can be and how careful attention to the
particular political and cultural context in which they have been construed
is needed. As such, the concepts of Czech and Bohemian glass serve as
pertinent examples of the continuous importance that design history as well
as the commercial sphere place on the construction of specificity, authenticity
and permanent features of design, which are so closely intertwined with the
political history.
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Péteri, G. 2004. ‘Nylon Curtain: Transnational and Transsystemic Tendencies in the Cultural Life
of State-Socialist Russia and East-Central Europe’, Slavonica 10(2): 113–124.
Petrová, S. 2007. ‘Sklo a keramika 1958–1970’, in R. Švácha and M. Platovská (eds), Dějiny českého
výtvarného umění VI/1 1958–2000. Prague: Academia, pp. 329–338.
Petrová, S. and J. Olivie. 1990. Bohemian Glass 1400–1989. New York: Abrams.
Pynsent, R.B. 1994. Questions of Identity: Czech and Slovak Ideas of Nationality and Personality.
Budapest: Central European University Press.
Ricke, H. (ed.). 2005. Czech Glass 1945–1980: Design in the Age of Adversity. Düsseldorf and
Stuttgart: Museum Kunst Palast, Arnoldsche.
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———. 2005. ‘Czech Glass, 1945–1980: Development – Features – Location’, in H. Ricke (ed.),
Czech Glass 1945–1980: Design in the Age of Adversity. Düsseldorf and Stuttgart: Museum
Kunst Palast, Arnoldsche, pp. 112–135.
Sayer, D. 1998. The Coasts of Bohemia: A Czech History. Princeton, NJ and Chichester: Princeton
University Press.
Schneider, D.E. 2006. Bartók, Hungary and the Renewal of Tradition: Case Studies in the Intersection of
Modernity and Nationality. Berkeley, CA: University of California Press.
Smith, A. 1991. National Identity. Reno: University of Nevada Press.
Smith, A. 1998. Nationalism and Modernism. A Critical Survey of Recent Theories of Nations and
Nationalism. Oxon - New York: Routledge.
Spurný, J. 1958. ‘K poslání průmyslového výtvarnictví’, Kultura, 25 September, p. 2.
Srp, K., L. Bydžovská, A. de Lima Greene and J. Mergl, 2011. New Formations, Czech Avant-Garde
Art and Modern Glass from the Roy and Mary Cullen Collection. Houston, New Haven and
London: Museum of Fine Arts, Houston.
Tallis, J. 2011. History and Description of the Crystal Palace and the Exhibition of the World’s Industry in
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Kunst Palast, Arnoldsche, pp. 86–103.
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Marta Filipová is an Honorary Research Fellow at the University of
Birmingham. Her research examines the questions of national identity, and
the politics of display and modernism in Central Europe. She is the author of
articles on these topics in, for example, The Journal of Design History, The RIHA
Journal and The Austrian History Yearbook, and she is the editor of Cultures of
International Exhibitions 1840–1940: Great Exhibitions in the Margins (Ashgate
2015).
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CH APTER
9
The Myth of Danish Design and the
Implicit Claims of Labels
Stina Teilmann-Lock
Until the 1950s Denmark was internationally respected only for its fairy tales
and its bacon. But from the 1950s onwards design came to constitute another
source of worldwide recognition. Today, fashion is a successful branch of
Danish design: it produces the largest annual turnover and the greatest export
of any of the creative industries in Denmark. And one thing that characterizes
the many different styles of Danish fashion is that they all come with the labels
’Danish Design’ or ’Designed in Denmark’ sewn onto the clothes or attached
to the price tag. Similar labels may be found on clothes from Sweden, Britain,
France, and Italy as well as from numerous other Western countries where
clothes have been designed – though not manufactured. And, supposedly, the
unspoken proviso of the epithet affixed to the name-tags of the clothes is:
‘though manufactured elsewhere’. As such, fashion is symptomatic of a general
tendency: labels reading ’Made in Denmark’, ’Made in Sweden’, ‘Made in
Britain’ (and so forth) have become rare. Particular sets of rules of national
and international trade law govern the marking of the ‘country of origin’ of
products (WTO Agreement on Rules of Origin, 15 April 1994, Final Act of
the 1986–1994 Uruguay Round of trade negotiations). Within the EU, the
country of origin refers to the country where goods are ‘wholly obtained’ or
‘where they underwent their last, substantial, economically justified processing
or working in an undertaking equipped for that purpose and resulting in
the manufacture of a new product or representing an important stage of
manufacture’ (Council Regulation [EEC] No 2913/92 of 12 October 1992
establishing the Community Customs Code, Art. 24). Against this background,
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The Myth of Danish Design and the Implicit Claims of Labels
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Figure 9.1 Label in shirt by Danish children’s clothes brand ‘Wheat’ (2014). Photo
by the author.
the ‘Designed in . . .’ labels constitute a new and ingenious way of linking
designs with nations.
During the twentieth century design has become a central element in the
national identity of many European countries. Thus categories such as ‘British
Design’, ‘Italian Design’ and ‘Danish Design’ have acquired a certain mythic
status in the rhetoric of both business and culture.This is similar to Swiss watches
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or Scotch whisky: no individual or brand is identified but the national modifier
works to collective advantage (Lock 2007). The particular status of design in
relation to a nation is usually reflected at the level of national trade policy and
cultural policy – although in Europe also on a supra-national level (Thomson
and Koskinen 2012). For example, in Britain it has long been government
policy to promote British design in order to stimulate economic growth and
enhance social and cultural development, with design seen as a ‘national asset’
in several respects. This began in the mid-nineteenth century with the Great
Exhibition in the Crystal Palace (1851), followed by the founding of a permanent show-case for the industrial arts in the Victoria and Albert Museum
(1857), and a series of design-related laws (Teilmann-Lock 2012: 220–222).The
link between design and nationhood grew stronger in the twentieth century.
In 1945, when the newly established Council of Industrial Design was preparing the Britain Can Make It Exhibition (1946), the President of the Board of
Trade, Stafford Cripps, declared that ‘Design is a factor of crucial importance
to British Industry today’ (Darling 2001–2002). More recently, the Chancellor
of the Exchequer, George Osborne, presenting the 2011 Budget, declared that
‘Britain is open for business: so this is our plan for growth. We want the words
“Made in Britain, Created in Britain, Designed in Britain, Invented in Britain”
to drive our nation forward’ (Osborne 2011). Design plays a pivotal role in the
global economy: thus declares one of the conclusions of the Creative Economy
Report 2008 commissioned by the United Nations agency UNCTAD (The
Design Commission 2011–2013; UNCTAD 2008: 129–132).
A similar development has taken place in Denmark where design has
also played a central role in policies of nation-building. An example is a 2007
Government White Paper entitled DesignDenmark affirming that ‘Denmark has
a tradition for good design, which is internationally renowned. Danish Design
was an international trendsetter in the 1950s and 1960s and helped pave the
way for international commercial successes in furniture, fashion and hi-fi design’
(The Danish Government 2007). The focus of this chapter will be on how
‘Danish Design’ as a category has been exploited to both shape and promote a
national distinctiveness, within Denmark and abroad. As such the label ‘Danish
Design’ is a kind of claim borne by products that are pronounced as Danish;
it is an attribution to particular goods of particular qualities and their associated prestige. And as Grace Lees-Maffei has argued, such attributions originate as much from the international reception of goods – ‘the way in which
mediating discourses can make a mythical national identity’ – as from the selfrepresentation of manufacturers (Lees-Maffei 2013: 291).Thus in the writing of
the history of Danish design – as in the writing of any other national tradition –
we should be aware of the fact that the national modifier is reflexively imposed.
Some of the most influential manifestations of national brands have come into
being in the narratives of fellow-nations (ibid.: 300f). Furthermore, we should
be aware of the legislative frameworks that govern the usage of national brands.
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Figure 9.2 Photo depicting ‘Swiss Made’ print on TAG Heuer watch. Photo by flickr
user Roy Niswanger under a Creative Commons BY-ND 2.0 license.
For example, in Switzerland, the predicate ‘Swiss Made’ on watches is governed
by strict national rules (‘232.119 Verordnung vom 23. Dezember 1971 über die
Benützung des Schweizer Namens für Uhren’, retrieved 30 March 2014 from
http://www.admin.ch/opc/de/classified-compilation/19710361/index.html).
The phrase ‘Swiss Made’ seems to be the first such national designation, arising,
in English, in response to the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia of 1876,
at which there seemed no way to distinguish American products from others
(Wälti 2007).Thus, reflexively, again, it was reception in a foreign country, or the
need for clarification in exports, that motivated a legal enactment of national
branding.That it was in response to the Centennial Exposition helps to explain
why a nation with four official languages should use a fifth language, English,
to brand its products. There is a further aspect of specific interest to design historians: the phrase was not to be hidden on the back where such labels usually
belong but was incorporated into the face as an element of the design. The
phrase selected was ‘Swiss Made’ rather than ‘Made in Switzerland’ because the
nine letters plus one space could be disposed symmetrically around the numeral
6, and thus they remain as a constant element in Swiss design.
Countries of Origin
‘Danish Design’ was a term first applied to identify and celebrate Danish
modernist furniture in the mid-twentieth century (Hansen 2006). Today,
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‘Danish Design’ continues to be a strong unofficial ‘brand’ in the promotion
of Denmark’s identity. The clothing industry, including children’s fashion, has
joined this national branding. However, there is a crucial difference between
what ‘Danish Design’ meant fifty or sixty years ago and what it means today.
An item labelled ‘Danish Design’ used to imply ‘Made in Denmark’; nowadays,
however, Danish contemporary design is produced in China, India, Poland or
elsewhere, but hardly ever in Denmark. In 2012 alone, three celebrated ‘Danish
Design’ companies, Georg Jensen, Royal Copenhagen and Fritz Hansen were
either bought up by foreign investment firms or outsourced their entire
production overseas (Bolza 2012; Investcorp 2012; McGwin 2012; PMR 2012;
Hedebo 2012).
In the post-industrialist economy most design companies have seen it
as economically sound, or even a condition for survival in a global market,
to move production to so-called ‘low-cost countries’. And the development
is not restricted to Denmark and Danish design. In Britain, for example, the
Burberry brand – despite its heavy brand reliance on ‘Britishness’ and its
appointments by royal warrant to the Queen and the Prince of Wales – has
been closing down factories in Wales and Yorkshire and has moved much of its
textile manufacturing to China (Gould 2009). The reliance of Italian manufacturers on Chinese (legal and illegal) immigrant workers in the production
of designs that are ‘Made in Italy’ has become widespread. An example is the
production of traditional fine fabrics in Tuscany: commentators have remarked
on the ‘non-Italian’ nationality of labourers making these goods (Donadio
2010).
Figure 9.3 Packaging for Georg Jensen candle holders, 2010. Photo by the author.
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Though such a new division of labour may spark protests, design companies tend to be unwilling to give up their national label. Nowadays, the lack of
any physical connection to a country does not disqualify a design product from
being, say, Danish, British or Italian. What has happened is that the category of
nationality has changed its function. It has moved from affirming a Romantic
myth of origins to contributing to a myth of globalization that conceals the
place of manufacture and promotes the country of ideation as the criterion of
nationality. And, as will be argued, the new type of national self-representation
and national myth-making could not have taken place apart from the conceptual framework of intellectual property law, in particular copyright and design
law.
Legal protection of design has been a high priority in Europe since the
1990s; new European legislation has come into being with the purpose of
strengthening the protection of intellectual property rights in design (Directive
98/71/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 13 October
1998 on the legal protection of designs). But in the process of enhancing the
categorization of design, internationally, as an object of copyright and design
law, the law has helped to change the way we think about design, and about the
origin and provenance of a design.
Intellectual property law makes a sharp conceptual distinction between the
intangible ‘design’ and the physical instantiations of the design. Under copyright
law the ‘work’ of design (or ‘applied art’ as it is termed under copyright law)
is the object of protection. A ‘work’ is an intangible entity that refers to that
which is an author’s or creator’s original expression in some tangible medium,
say a ‘literary work’ as manifest in a book, an ‘artistic work’ as manifest in a
painting, a ‘work of design’ as manifest in a chair, and so forth. Under design
law it is the design’s ‘appearance’ that is awarded protection.Thus the definition
of a ‘design’ by EU law reads ‘the appearance of the whole or a part of a
product resulting from the features of, in particular, the lines, contours, colours,
shape, texture and/or materials of the product itself and/or its ornamentation’
(Directive 98/71/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 13
October 1998 on the legal protection of designs, Art. 1).
Under intellectual property law, a design is always an immaterial or
intellectual conception: this is what the law protects. Thus in this dualistic
framework of thinking the design exists independently of the process of its
materialization, including the making of its prototype. Such a total separation
of the ‘design’ from the physical circumstances of prototyping, production and
distribution now also prevails in the relevant ‘expert’ discourses (economic,
legal, academic) on ‘design’. And this is what enables us to think of a product as
an example of Danish design even though it was manufactured in, say, China,
and perhaps, in the entire chain of distribution, never touched Danish soil.
What ‘Designed in Denmark’ signifies is that there is a Danish designer or
company (itself a nebulous category dependent on what? Passport? Place
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Figure 9.4 Label in Donegal tweed, 1959. Fabrics of a similar type but with a
different provenance are often referred to as ‘donegals’ with lowercase ‘d’. Photo by
the author.
of birth? Address for taxation purposes?) who owns the design as a piece of
intellectual property: it is irrelevant where the physical copies of the design
came into being and by whose handiwork.
Of this movement towards a dualistic way of conceptualizing design,
intellectual property law has been a marker as well as a mover. Traditionally,
design products would be naturally linked to a geographical place, either a city
or a region. It lies in the names of many fabrics: cashmere, denim (de Nîmes),
damask, suede, and so forth. After the rise of the nation state the bond was
adopted and sustained at the level of the nation. It would be understood on the
international market that a pair of ‘Italian’ shoes had been designed, prototyped,
produced and exported from Italy according to Italian ways and standards. The
designer would also be a skilled craftsman and the maker of the prototype, and
the value of any design would be estimated according to the value of tangible
products for sale. However, today the law promotes the estimation of design
according to its value as an ‘asset’ in the national ‘economy of knowledge’ and
as a token of ‘cultural capital’. We might say that the valuation and currency
of design have shifted. And the designer has become a creator of intellectual
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The Myth of Danish Design and the Implicit Claims of Labels
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property. In this domain it is the law itself that is facilitating the promotion of a
national myth where designs in their capacity as intangible assets are valued on
the globalized market.The change in valuation of design from tangible ‘product
value’ to intangible ‘asset value’ has been ongoing throughout the twentieth
century; the use of licensing as a means of creating value in the design sector is
indicative of this (Stewart 2005).
The immaterial rights in design have extensive material consequences
for design products. Intellectual property law divides design into two classes
of things: original products and pirated products. This remains a fundamental
conceptual division (Teilmann-Lock 2006). Against this background, the label
‘Designed in Denmark’ is the semiotic marker of a new way of perceiving
authenticity. Materially speaking the difference between authentic and pirated
goods may not be substantial: both are typically made in low-cost countries.
It has even been seen that the same factory makes both (Staff Apv v. Marc
Lauge A/S. The Danish Maritime and Commercial Court, 25 January 2008).
Regardless of the fact that there may be little or no material difference between
an authentic branded shirt and a fake one (unlike that between the real pearl and
the fake one), the distinction between them created by the global intellectual
property rights regime has huge material effects (OECD 2008; 2009), not only
in the economic turnovers that they generate. At Europe’s borders the customs
authorities stand ready to catch imported pirate goods and whatever they catch
is taken away and destroyed in secret places to prevent anyone stealing what may
look like valuable originals (European Commission 2013). On this account,
massive quantities of what bears a striking resemblance to Arne Jacobsen Series
Seven Chairs, Rolex watches, Louboutin stilettos, Isabel Marant garments, and
much more, are destroyed every year. While ‘each society, each generation fakes
the thing it covets most’ (Jones 1994: 94) – and the desire today is for branded
goods – each society also has to perform its own rituals for sustaining the
crucial distinction between ‘authentics’ and ‘fakes’.
Danish Design: Made in Denmark
In the 1950s the works of Danish designers became famous all over the
Western world under the labels ‘Danish Design’ or ‘Danish Modern’. Within
these labels were comprised the products of a group of furniture designers and
architects including Finn Juhl, Hans Wegner, Poul Kjærholm, Børge Mogensen,
Poul Henningsen and Arne Jacobsen, most of them graduates of The Royal
Danish Academy of Art’s furniture school founded in 1924. Kaare Klint was the
charismatic leader who taught his students the importance of craftsmanship and
first-rate materials combined with a simple and functionalist idiom.Accordingly,
the furniture that became known as ‘Danish Design’ shared a number of
characteristics: it was handmade in Danish workshops; the materials were
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natural – solid wood, leather, canvas and the like; its appearance and lines were
plain; and the furniture was shaped in accordance with ergonomic principles.
American consumers welcomed ‘Danish Design’ in the early 1950s following
a travelling exhibition, Design in Scandinavia (1954–1957), organized by The
Danish Arts and Crafts Association and its Scandinavian sister organizations
(Guldberg 2011: 42–48; Hansen 2006: 401–436).
In the USA ‘Danish Design’ became synonymous with the idea of a modern,
democratic and ‘natural’ lifestyle. Danish furniture makers had themselves
contributed to the making of such a narrative in the marketing of their goods.
Sales catalogues and promotion material were full of references to the ‘Danish’
or, occasionally, ’Scandinavian’ values of quality, good taste, simplicity, social
harmony and so forth. The ‘Danish’ (or ‘Scandinavian’) ‘way of living’ was
inscribed in these pieces of furniture (Guldberg 2011: 48–55).
However, the coming into being of the notion of ‘Danish Design’ was in
effect the result of interplay between the marketing by the various promoters
of Danish design (marketing professionals, government officials, designers’
organizations and others) and labelling by the foreign press. What came to
be known as ‘Danish Design’ was not altogether representative of design in
Denmark. In fact, as Kjetil Fallan has pointed out, it amounted to a number of
‘privileged relatively exclusive objects intended for an elite audience’ (Fallan
2014: 2). In the 1950s only a marginal cultural elite within Denmark would
dream of furnishing their homes with what we now designate as ‘Danish
Design’. Symptomatically, the Danish press was very keen in the 1950s to
consult a visiting American journalist on the question of this ‘Danish Design’:
what was it that the American newspapers and journals were so excited about?
The American press had been quick to apply the term ‘Danish Design’ with its
positive connotations of the welfare state, democracy, a high standard of living
and so forth. And the success of Danish design might never have happened
without this stereotype. Without it, perhaps, only the individual careers of two
of them, Finn Juhl and Hans Wegner – whose works were by far the most
popular in the USA – would have entered into international design history
(Hansen 2006: 377–387).
Already at the 1939 World’s Fair in New York the American and British
press had coined the concept of ‘Swedish Modern’ which referred to Swedish
handicrafts of the time: furniture, pottery, textiles and so forth, but also
sometimes more broadly to a ‘Scandinavian’ aesthetics in design. By the 1950s
‘Danish Modern’ and ‘Danish Design’ had become the more prominent labels
(Hansen 2006: 392).
Such expressions as ‘Swedish Modern’, ‘Danish Modern’ and ‘Danish
Design’ should be understood in the context of the exhibition culture that
began with the Great Exhibition of the Works of Industry of All Nations in the
Crystal Palace in London in 1851.World’s Fairs and later expos have been venues
of international trade where design has been linked to nations and particular
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The Myth of Danish Design and the Implicit Claims of Labels
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examples of design have been promoted to the status of national emblems by
the joint efforts of official promotion and the reception and celebration of such
items in the media.
The appeal and magnitude of the concept of ‘Danish Design’ became
clear when unauthorized copies started to be marketed. As a result of its
commercial success American furniture makers began, in the 1950s, to market
their own ‘Danish-Modern’ or ‘Danish-Design’ (as well as ‘Scandinavian
Modern’ and ‘Scandinavian Design’) furniture., as seen in for example the
furniture catalogue Danish Modern and Beyond: Scandinavian Inspired Furniture
from Heywood-Wakefield (Baker 2004). This is the usual paradox of success:
a dilution of the concept of ‘Danish Design’ was the consequence of its
popularity. Measures to protect the label ‘Danish Design’ were called for by
the Danish producers. In principle, anyone marketing non-Danish furniture
under the label ‘Danish’ could be reported to the Federal Trade Commission
for a misleading trade description. Even so it was not until 1968 that a ruling
established that the labels of ‘Danish Design’ and ‘Danish Modern’ were to be
attached only to designs originating in Denmark. By that date, however, the
labels had started to designate period reproductions (Hansen 2006: 462–466).
Yet in the years when ‘Danish Design’ was most successful in the USA the
label was used without any restrictions. Accordingly, in 1959, the Association
of Danish Furniture Makers introduced a quality seal with the text: ‘Danish
Furniture Makers’ Control’. Furniture carrying this seal was guaranteed to have
been made in Denmark, in accordance with the best Danish craft traditions
and experience (‘Furn-tech – Dansk Møbelkontrol’, retrieved 30 March 2014
from http://furn-tech.dk/).
Danish Design: Designed in Denmark
Thus, the first myth of ‘Danish Design’ – ‘Danish Design’ as ‘Made in Denmark’ –
had made its contribution to Danish national identity. ‘Danish Design’ became
a label that celebrated the idea of design – as a material product – originating
in a particular national culture, contributing to an international image of a
national cultural identity. Today, ‘Danish Design’ has changed its denotation. It
is no longer an endorsement of the idea of cultural origins. Rather, the designation has become a ‘brand’, a sign with a somewhat contingent relationship
to the design to which it refers. Danish design products have lost the implicit
physical attachment to the country that defines their status. Our idea of a design
is no longer confined to the physical copies of the design. We tend to think
of design in a mediated form: what comes out of the designer’s imagination,
what is positioned in the abstract ‘hall of fame’ of design, what belongs to a
particular lifestyle.To a great extent, today, a design is perceived as an ‘intangible
entity’. Accordingly, ‘Danish Design’ is no longer promoted in a material way
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as ‘hand-made in Danish workshops’. Today, the term ‘Danish Design’ is an
unofficial brand. Danish design has a name because there was ‘Danish Design’.
Indicative of this is, for example, the page dedicated to design on the official
website of Denmark, where it is declared that ‘For some years, contemporary
Danish designers have been standing in the shadow of the time-honoured brand,
Danish Design’. And then this ‘overshadowing’ is actively extended: it is pointed
out that ‘Industrial design, furniture and aesthetic objects have always been
some of Denmark’s biggest exports. Famous Danes include: Børge Mogensen,
Finn Juhl, Hans Wegner, Arne Jacobsen, Poul Kjærholm, Poul Henningsen and
Verner Panton who are known throughout the world for their design classics’ (‘Lifestyle: Design’, retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://denmark.dk/en/
lifestyle/design/).
Once again a presentation of Danish design inevitably becomes a
retrospective presentation of ‘Danish Design’, of this group of designers that
became so famous that they continue to incarnate Danish design. A similar
effect arose from the exhibition Ikon which took place in New York in 2007.
On show at the exhibition were the works of the most renowned manufacturers
of Danish design. And the majority of the products happened to be works made
in the 1950s: the ‘timeless’ design icons by Arne Jacobsen, Poul Henningsen
and Poul Kjærholm (Hartz 2007). Perhaps the designs do transcend time, but
the label ‘Danish Design’ seems not to: at the Ikon exhibition it was almost a
historical label, despite its express purpose to display the offerings of current
Danish design.
The question of labelling Danish design is not merely theoretical. It is
also a commercial problem for the Danish design industry. As is clear from
the promotion material from the manufacturers of ‘Danish Design’ – Fritz
Hansen, Louis Poulsen, Le Klint, Carl Hansen and others – the old furniture,
the ‘classics’ of Wegner, Juhl and Jacobsen, continue to constitute the major
share of their selections. And a recent trend has been to launch ‘new’ products
from the archives of the ‘Danish Modern’ designers, designs that have gone out
of production and even some that have never been put in production: hidden
treasures of ‘Danish Design’, for example, the re-launch in 2012 of CH162
and CH163 by Carl Hansen & Son and Montana Furniture’s rediscovery
and launch in 2003 of Verner Panton’s Tivoli Chair from 1955. In the Danish
design industry profits are still earned on the ‘initial’ Danish Design (Dreehsen
2008). The highest praise that can be given to a contemporary designer in
Denmark seems to be that he or she might be an heir to the great tradition
(Rimmer 2013: 82–96). Young and talented Danish designers such as Louise
Campbell, Kasper Salto and Cecilie Manz have been promoted as the new
generation of suppliers of ‘Danish Design’. Each of them makes distinctive
and celebrated works – often in continuation of Danish design tradition – but
together they do not constitute the sort of ‘movement’ that would make them
suitable as carriers of the emblematic status of ‘Danish Design’.The inclination
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The Myth of Danish Design and the Implicit Claims of Labels
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to fit them into the category of ‘Danish Design’ comes only from the fact that
there has been ‘Design Design’. As such ‘Danish Design’ works as a diachronic
category.
The Claims of Labels
‘Danish Design’ exists, despite the physical detachment of the design products
from Denmark. Insofar as Denmark was once a great ‘design nation’ it must
be possible for Denmark again to be ‘known worldwide as the design society’,
as proposed by the Danish Design 2020 Committee (Danish Enterprise &
Construction Authority 2011: 48). In Denmark, as in other Western countries,
national trade policy is a key circulator of the concept of ‘Danish Design’.
Design has been given a major role in the quest to achieve economic
growth in Europe. We used to have design that grew out of Danish culture.
In the knowledge economy, design is an asset. Whereas in the 1950s some
very talented designers created the possibility of ‘Danish Design’, today the
marketing strategy of Danish design is geared to co-opt whatever talent is
available. And the emphasis has shifted from the Romantic myth of origins,
the isolated designer working somewhere in Denmark with natural Nordic
materials. Now ‘Danish Design’ is a global brand dedicated to the most
profitable means of linking cheaply produced and rapidly moving commodities
to any designer who might – at any stretch – be called Danish. The questions
remain: is Danish Design an active part of Danish culture, shaped and directed
by Danish people with a financial, social and cultural investment in the wellbeing of Denmark? Or has ‘Danish Design’ ceased to exist as an active force,
the term being now only a label (a highly marketable label) to be exploited
by global capital for its profit, albeit with incidental benefits still accruing to
the Danish nation?
There have recently been calls for a more authentic relationship between
design and nationhood, a resistance to globalization and outsourcing. ‘Design
Nation’, founded in 2012, markets tables, kitchen utensils and other products that are ‘made in Denmark’ from Danish materials, including ‘Danish
maple, crafted from Danish wood’ (Petersen 2006). Other examples include
Streetcommander which produces knitwear and kilts for modern men on the
Danish island of Falster, Normann Copenhagen which launched the ‘100%
made in Denmark’ furniture series ‘New Danish Modern’ in 2009, and Sløjd
[woodwork], a small company run by the cabinet maker Morten Høeg-Larsen,
who produces cutting boards made of Nordic wood with the precise geographical origin inscribed on each board. In Britain, a movement is dedicated
to reviving the traditional sense of ‘Made in Britain’ (and not in the Chancellor
of the Exchequer’s way where ‘Designed in Britain’ and ‘Made in Britain’ are
marked out as ‘assets’). There are trade promotion initiatives such as ‘Still made
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Stina Teilmann-lock
in Britain’ that advance ‘all types of British goods and manufacturers carrying
on a proud British tradition’ (Still Made in Britain, retrieved 30 March 2014
from http://www.stillmadeinbritain.co.uk/about-us.html) and support products of British provenance, made by a ‘skilled craftsman using the finest materials’ (Make it British, retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://makeitbritish.co.uk/
about/). At the London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2012 it was the latest
fashion to be ‘Made in Britain’ (Armstrong 2012).
Yet another sign of a move towards a more authentic relationship between
design and nationhood may be seen in the phenomenon of ‘insourcing’ where
Western companies ‘re-patriate’ manufacturing from overseas, typically in
reaction to transport costs and problems with quality and labour conditions
abroad (Stewart 2013: 1). Meanwhile it may be that the ‘elsewhere’ in which
design products have been manufactured in recent decades may be undergoing
a change. Recent developments on the Chinese design scene indicate that more
original ‘designer’ products may be coming from there in the future (McGuirk
2012: 34). Since 2004 it has been official Chinese policy to turn manufacturers
in China into Chinese brands on the global market (Justice 2012: 113ff). In that
case the label ‘Made in China’ will attain a fundamentally new meaning. The
whole paradigm of ‘Made in’ versus ‘Designed in’ will be undone when China
starts boasting of the fact that products are made in China, that is, when ‘made
in China’ implies ‘designed in China’.
There are also changes underway in Europe as to the rules concerning
labels naming the ‘country of origin’. The European Commission intends to
make indication of origin obligatory: ‘Manufacturers and importers shall ensure
that products bear an indication of the country of origin of the product or,
where the size or nature of the product does not allow it, that indication is to
be provided on the packaging or in a document accompanying the product’
(‘Proposal for a Regulation of the European Parliament and of the Council on
consumer product safety and repealing Council Directive 87/357/EEC and
Directive 2001/95/EC’, art. 7 [1], 2013, retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://
eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=CELEX:52013PC0078).
The purpose of the proposal is to help consumers ‘to identify the actual place
of manufacture in all those cases where the manufacturer cannot be contacted
or its given address is different from the actual place of manufacture’ (Proposal
2013, art 7 [1]). While hitherto many companies have used ‘made in’ labelling
voluntarily, it would now be obligatory for labels either to specify a country of
origin of products that are either ‘wholly obtained’ or have undergone ‘substantial transformation’ outside the EU, or to have labels indicate when products are
‘Made in the European Union’.
The European Commission has tried to introduce obligatory ‘Made in’
labelling for a number of years.Yet member states have been reluctant. To the
design nations of Europe the ‘Designed in’ label’s way of linking designs with
nations is preferable to labels that point to non-European elsewheres or to
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The Myth of Danish Design and the Implicit Claims of Labels
169
Figure 9.5 Label in tunic by Danish fashion brand Margit Brandt, 2013. The brand
existed in the 1960s and 1970s and was relaunched in 2005. Photo by the author.
no nation at all, the European Union. In this matter of origins the European
Commission appears to have underestimated the strength of the link between
design and nation and the value of design for the national identity of European
countries. Likewise, design historians may have been seduced by the rhetoric
of globalization and have thus overlooked the continuing importance of the
nation-state with its laws, its export policies and its promotional practices.
References
Armstrong, L. 2012. ‘Why “Made in Britain” is the Most Fashionable Label this Season’, The
Telegraph, 18 February. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/
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170
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news-features/TMG9090406/Why-Made-in-Britain-is-the-most-fashionable-label-thisseason.html
Baker, D.S. (ed.). 2004. Danish Modern and Beyond: Scandinavian Inspired Furniture from HeywoodWakefield. Atglen: Schiffer Publishing.
Bolza, M. 2012. ‘Royal Copenhagen Makes Move To Thailand’, ScandAsia, 26 November.
Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://scandasia.com/royal-copenhagen-makes-moves-intothailand
Danish Enterprise & Construction Authority. 2011. The Vision of the Danish Design 2020 Committee.
Copenhagen. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://erhvervsstyrelsen.dk/file/373964/thevision-of-the-danish-design2020.pdf
The Danish Government. 2007. DesignDenmark [White Paper]. Copenhagen: The Danish
Government. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://erhvervsstyrelsen.dk/file/7260/
designdenmark.pdf:%20Danish%20Business%20Authority
Darling, E. 2001–2002. ‘Exhibiting Britain: Display and National Identity 1945–1975’, Designing
Britain 1945–1975. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://www.vads.ac.uk/learning/
designingbritain/html/bcmi_intro.html
The Design Commission. 2011–2013. Restarting Britain 1–2. A Report by the Design Commission
(2011–13). London: Policy Connect.
Donadio, R. 2010. ‘Chinese Remake the “Made in Italy” Fashion Label’, The New York Times, 12
September. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/13/world/
europe/13prato.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0
Dreehsen, L.L. 2008. ‘Stadig salg i Fritz og Børge’, Erhvervsbladet Berlingske Business, 28
September. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://www.business.dk/evb-archive/stadigsalg-i-fritz-og-boerge
European Commission. 2013. ‘Protecting Intellectual Property Rights: Customs Detain €1
Billion Worth of Fake Goods at EU Borders in 2012’ [Press release, 5 August]. Brussels:
European Commission. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://europa.eu/rapid/pressrelease_IP-13-761_en.htm
Fallan, K. 2014. ‘Milanese Mediations: Crafting Scandinavian Design at the Triennali di Milano’,
Konsthistorisk Tidskrift/ Journal of Art History 83(1): 1–23.
Gould, C. ‘Burberry bosses close a second factory’. 2009. WalesOnline, 21 January. Retrieved
30 March 2014 from http://www.walesonline.co.uk/news/wales-news/burberry-bossesclose-second-factory-2130155
Guldberg, J. 2011. ‘Scandinavian Design as Discourse: The Exhibition “Design in Scandinavia”’,
Design Issues 27(2): 41–58.
Hansen, P.H. 2006. Da Danske Møbler blev Moderne. Odense: University Press of Southern Denmark
& Aschehoug.
Hartz, J. 2007. ‘IKON’. Retrieved on 30 March 2014 from http://www.h-z.dk/
Hedebo, L. 2012. ‘Dansk Design – Made Somewhere Else’. Politiken, 18 November, 8–10.
Investcorp. 2012. ‘Investcorp Acquires Scandinavia’s Leading Luxury Brand Georg Jensen’.
Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://www.investcorp.com/media/default.aspx?year=
2012&itemid=558
Jones, M. 1994. ‘Why Fakes?’, in S.M. Pierce (ed.), Interpreting Objects and Collections. London and
New York: Routledge, pp. 92–97.
Justice, L. 2012. China’s Design Revolution. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.
Lees-Maffei, G. 2013. ‘“Made” in England? The Mediation of Alessi S.p.A.’, in G. Lees-Maffei and
K. Fallan (eds), Made in Italy: Rethinking a Century of Italian Design. London: Bloomsbury
Academic, pp. 287–303.
Lock, C. 2007. ‘Five Passports and a Broken Stone: Tercentenary Thoughts in Honour of Edward
Lhuyd’, Angles on the English-speaking World 7: 129–151.
McGuirk, J. 2012. ‘China Goes Beyond “Made in”’, The Guardian Weekly, 2–8 November,
34–35.
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The Myth of Danish Design and the Implicit Claims of Labels
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McGwin, K. 2012. ‘Designed in Denmark. Made in Poland’, The Copenhagen Post, 31 July 2012.
Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://cphpost.dk/news/designed-in-denmark-made-inpoland.2304.html
OECD (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development). 2008. The Economic Impact
of Counterfeiting and Piracy. Paris: OECD Publishing.
OECD (Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development). 2009. Magnitude of
Counterfeiting and Piracy of Tangible Products. Paris: OECD Publishing.
Osborne, G. 2011. ‘2011 Budget: Britain Open for Business’ [Press Release dated 23 March from
the Foreign and Commonwealth Office]. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from https://www.gov.
uk/government/news/2011-budget-britain-open-for-business
Petersen, S.U. 2006. ‘Stick in a Box’, Design Nation. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://www.
design-nation.dk/stickinabox
PMR Consulting and Market Research Services. 2012. ‘Danish Furniture Maker Buys Factory
in Wielkopolskie’ [Press Release dated 1 August from PMR]. Retrieved 30 March 2014
from http://www.ceeretail.com/news/170811/Danish-furniture-maker-buys-factory-inWielkopolskie.shtml
Rimmer, E. 2013. ‘Danish Modern 2013’, Bo Bedre, 82–96.
Stewart, H. 2013. ‘The Cult of Globalisation Fades’, The Guardian Weekly, 18–24 January, 1, 4.
Stewart, M.L. 2005. ‘Copying and Copyrighting Haute Couture: Democratizing Fashion, 1900–
1930s’, French Historical Studies 28(1): 103–130.
Teilmann-Lock, S. 2006. ‘On Real Nightingales and Mechanical Reproductions’, in H. Porsdam
(ed.), Copyright and Other Fairy Tales: Hans Christian Andersen and the Commercialisation of
Creativity. Cheltenham: Edward Elgar Publishing, pp. 23–39.
———. 2012. ‘On the Legal Protection of Design: Things and Words About Them’, in G. LeesMaffei (ed.), Writing Design:Words and Objects. Oxford: Berg Publishers, pp. 219–229.
Thomson, M. and T. Koskinen (eds). 2012. Design for Growth and Prosperity: Report and
Recommendations of the European Design Leadership Board. Helsinki: European Commission.
Retrieved 30 March 2014 from http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/policies/innovation/files/
design/design-for-growth-and-prosperity-report_en.pdf
UNCTAD. 2008. Creative Economy Report 2008. The Challenge of Assessing the Creative Economy:
Towards Informed Policy-making. New York: UN Publishing. Retrieved 30 March 2014 from
http://unctad.org/en/Docs/ditc20082cer_en.pdf
Wälti, C. 2007. ‘Aux origines du Swiss made horloger’, Swissinfo, 9 July. Retrieved 30 March
2014 from http://www.swissinfo.ch/fre/culture/Aux_origines_du_Swiss_made_horloger.
html?cid=5989116
Stina Teilmann-Lock is Associate Professor of Design Studies at the
University of Southern Denmark. Her research interests centre on copyright,
art and design. She is the author of The Object of Copyright: A Conceptual History
of Originals and Copies in Literature, Art and Design (Routledge 2016) and
British and French Copyright: A Historical Study of Aesthetic Implications (DJOEF
Publishing 2009) and co-editor of Art and Law: The Copyright Debate (DJOEF
Publishing 2005). Recent publications include articles in Design and Culture,
Luxury and Design Issues.
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CHAPTER
10
Altering a Homogenized Heritage
Articulating Heterogeneous Material Cultures
in Norway and Sweden
Kjetil Fallan and Christina Zetterlund
Visitors to the Swedish pavilion at the New York World’s Fair in 1939 would
have been met by an introductory photo-mural showing a group of confident,
young blond people gazing steadily into the future. In the emerging welfare
state this group is approaching the future with the certainty that they belong
and will be taken care of. The future is theirs, modernity belongs to them. It
is the future of a solid democratic and modern welfare state aiming to harness
the entire population into a large, inclusive and harmonious middle class. In
this narrative, present as much in Norwegian as in Swedish design history,
design is portrayed as democratic, in the service of the many, as building a
modern egalitarian society.Yet, it is not just the future that belongs to the ideal
citizens represented in the photo-mural but history as well. It is their history
that has been privileged in scholarship. The result is a narrative producing and
reproducing a self-understanding amongst the population of being part of
relatively egalitarian but also homogenous societies in terms of gender, class
and race/ethnicity.
This sanctioned history thus obscures the considerable heterogeneity
of Nordic societies, past and present, and relegates a wide variety of alternative cultural practices and subject positions to the margins. There is a need to
question the homogenized heritage of Nordic design and analyse it further
through approaches within design historical scholarship articulating heterogeneity by applying perspectives of gender, class and ethnicity (or through an
intersectional perspective). In this chapter we focus on how dominant design
history discourse hides the fact that material cultures of ethnic minorities are
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Articulating Heterogeneous Material Cultures in Norway and Sweden
173
Fig. 10.1 Photo-mural displayed in the Swedish Pavilion at the New York World’s
Fair in 1939, as reproduced in the exhibition catalogue. Courtesy of Svensk Form.
and have been profoundly present in everyday life. Even recent national survey
histories (Korvenmaa 2009; Brunnström 2010; Wildhagen 2012 [1988]), which
have incorporated many of the critical and theoretical discourses in international design historiography, are mute on the subject of ethnic minorities. This
is typical not only of Nordic design history, but of design history in general.
Therefore, and because the issue of minority material cultures challenges notions
of national identities and design cultures everywhere and also complicates the
relations between the national, the regional and the global, our discussion points
to a research agenda that is both national and global at the same time.
Nordic identity is too often treated as homogeneous. However, this is
currently being questioned. It is becoming clear that such homogeneity comes
at a price, that this sameness is built upon control, exclusion and eradication of
difference. In this chapter we trace aspects of this historical development and
examine how its resulting idea of a uniform identity is mirrored in current
discourse. Design history constitutes a very good example for discussing how
difference has been perceived within the Nordic identity discourse as national
museums and educational institutions are heavily invested in the version of
modernity which conventional portrayals of Scandinavian Design adhere
to. Design history has been instrumental in constructing and confirming
particular norms and identities and therefore serves as a good example of how
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a homogeneous Nordic identity has been created and sustained. Our discussion
starts with the open-air heritage museums which have served as an historical
anchoring point for the modern Nordic identity, and which can also be said
to be a distinctly Nordic invention. In this narrative the rural farmer has been
ascribed a vital role.We analyse how a certain material culture identity is created
at the open-air museum and how these museums are now facing difficulties in
refreshing this identity.We then move on to discuss the design culture of groups
that historically have been excluded from these narratives and analyse examples
demonstrating the many challenges of devising a more inclusive approach to
design history.
Harnessing Heritage
When the nation state as a political and cultural concept in its modern form
emerged in nineteenth-century Europe, creating a history of its people was
considered paramount in legitimizing the new construct. Both academic scholarship and popular presentations were enrolled in this endeavour, each contributing to establishing national histories as the prevalent genre (Berger and
Lorenz 2008: 10). In the Nordic countries, the open-air museum, featuring
full-scale versions of carefully selected elements of past material culture, became
key institutions in defining this history. The independent farmer was made the
primary historical subject in these narratives, marginalizing other figures like
the more numerous paid farm hands, fishermen, sailors, dockers and maids. In
1881 King Oscar II’s collection of vernacular architecture (transposed) from
rural Norway was established in Oslo with the intention of showing the evolution of traditional Norwegian building types since the Middle Ages. Inspired
by the Norwegian scheme, the Stockholm museum Skansen opened in 1891
after an initiative by Arthur Hazelius. Skansen would subsequently become the
model for many open-air museums all over the world (Rentzhog 2007).
As a stage upon which – often quite literarily – the history of the nation
and its people was played out, these museums assumed a political function
as generators and guardians of national identity and purveyors of its historical legitimacy. A very good example is found in Sweden in the early twentieth century. In 1912 the government set up a housing committee tasked with
improving the dire living conditions of people of little means. In one of its
publications the committee claimed that new housing types for this population group should be based on historic houses exhibited at Skansen, finding
there an aesthetical ideal that in the eyes of the committee was not tarnished
by the current taste for ‘frippery from abroad’ (Zetterlund 2012). Today there
is a greater socio-economic diversity of buildings exhibited at Skansen, but the
housing committee clearly referenced the rural farm buildings so venerated by
the urban bourgeoisie.
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Articulating Heterogeneous Material Cultures in Norway and Sweden
175
Fig. 10.2 Interior view of the eighteenth-century Morastugan – the first building to
be relocated to Skansen, forming a key part of the museum from its opening in 1891.
Photographer unknown. Courtesy of Stockholm Stadsmuseum.
Today it would perhaps be somewhat more difficult to dismiss something
as ‘frippery from abroad’, given the intricate geographies of contemporary
manufacture and because more complicated national identities are making it
difficult to distinguish domestic production by style.Yet, this is an undercurrent
in history writing and identity construction. For example, in 2000 the Swedish
government published a report evaluating its design policies. Under the heading
‘A Democratic Tradition’ one can read how ‘Swedish furniture designers and
interior architects have often . . . preferred blond and light interiors. Yet, there
has been, and still exist, those who wanted to protest against this so called
“Swedish design” and instead promote other traditions’. This tradition of the
‘other’ is defined as ornamental folk art, or designs influenced by kitsch and
popular culture, the baroque shapes of Southern Europe and glowing colours
as in Eastern Europe (Ljungh et al. 2000: 190).
Just how difficult it is to embrace what is considered ‘foreign’ to the
conventional national narratives is equally evident in current attempts by
the open-air museums to alter their practices. In 2000–2001 the Norwegian
Museum of Cultural History (Norsk Folkemuseum) rebuilt a 1865 apartment
building, Wessels gate 15, originally located in downtown Oslo, as part of the
museum’s large open-air exhibition space at Bygdøy, south-west of the city
centre. Over the following years, the building’s eight apartments were furnished
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Kjetil Fallan and Christina Zetterlund
Fig. 10.3 View of the exhibition interior A Pakistani Home in Norway – 2002 in the
Wessels gate 15 apartment building at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History
(Norsk Folkemuseum). Photo: Anne-Lise Reinsfelt. Courtesy of Norsk Folkemuseum.
with domestic interiors representing a broad range of time periods and social
segments, from A Doll’s House – 1879 (furnished according to Henrik Ibsen’s
own scenographic descriptions), via The Cleaning Lady’s Home – 1950, to The
Architect’s Home – 1979.The most contemporary interior, however, is A Pakistani
Home in Norway – 2002, opened to the public in June 2003.
This latter exhibit is remarkable in many ways. Its appearance in a museum
perceived by many as celebrating a sanctioned version of national identity and
tradition can be read as an attempt at modernizing the institution’s image and
political significance. But whereas the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History
has had a permanent exhibition on Sami culture – the Sami are an indigenous
people whose homeland cuts across the northern parts of Norway, Sweden,
Finland and Russia – since 1958, its first effort at including by far the largest
group of ‘new’ minorities in its narrative of national identity appeared only in
2003.
The domestic interiors on display in Wessels gate 15 are intended to ‘tell
stories about daily life, living conditions and furnishing customs in Oslo from
the late 19th Century to 2002’ (Bing et al. 2011: 24). Although these exhibits
are less pristine and elitist than those one would find in museums of decorative
art, walking through the building nevertheless feels like a history lesson in good
taste and social aspiration, until, that is, one arrives in the Pakistani apartment.
All the other apartments showcase a kind of interior design that in one way
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Articulating Heterogeneous Material Cultures in Norway and Sweden
177
Fig. 10.4 View of the exhibition interior Modern Living – 1935 in the Wessels
gate 15 apartment building at the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History (Norsk
Folkemuseum). Photo: Anne-Lise Reinsfelt. Courtesy of Norsk Folkemuseum.
or another is to be regarded as commendable or exemplary, varying from
‘respectable bourgeois’ and ‘cheap avant-garde’ via ‘flapper fashionable’ and
‘mid-Century modern’ to ‘working-class hero’ and ‘student savvy’. Against this
background, A Pakistani Home in Norway – 2002 stands out as an addition rather
than an integrated continuity. The ‘addition’, writes Wera Grahn, ‘is a familiar
practice of exclusion . . . removing [the minority’s] history from normal history,
making it a subordinate clause’ (Grahn 2011: 47).
This impression is confirmed when taking art and design history students
to see the exhibitions in Wessels gate 15. Whereas exclamations signalling
recognition, respect, admiration – envy, even – are the norm as we work our
way through the other apartments, their reaction to the Pakistani interior is
dominated by expressions of astonishment, disbelief, ridicule – horror, even.
As this group has been socialized into possessing relatively specific aesthetic
preferences and cultural capital, A Pakistani Home in Norway – 2002 becomes
for them a version of the infamous ‘chamber of horrors’ from the early days
of the Victoria and Albert Museum (Frayling 2010). Norwegian art and design
history students may not be ‘average’ visitors – if that term makes any sense –
in fact their shared reaction reveals the homogeneity of the group and how a
restricted aesthetic norm keeps being reproduced in formalized education and
criticism. Yet, the museum reports similar responses from the general public
too, including worries that the exhibition is denouncing Pakistani interior
decoration practices as ‘bad taste’. The curators’ answer to such feedback,
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however, is that ‘the aim has not been to show good or bad taste (whatever that
might be) but to show a snippet of reality’ (Pareli 2004: 63).
But what really sets A Pakistani Home in Norway – 2002 apart from the
other interiors in Wessels gate 15 is how this exhibition seems to be primarily
defined by the (fictitious) dwellers’ ethnicity, whereas the other interiors are
defined by categories such as social class, occupation, economy, etc. So, although
Pakistanis in Norway are as different as other Norwegians in terms of social and
economical distinguishers such as education, disposable income, cultural capital
and taste, A Pakistani Home in Norway – 2002 comes, by the way in which the
narrative is told by the museum, to represent an entire ethnic group rather than
a specific socio-economic stratum as do the other interiors. The exhibition’s
introductory wall text does acknowledge the heterogeneity of NorwegianPakistani home cultures: ‘the exhibition does not attempt to show how all
Pakistanis in Norway live. Pakistani homes vary as much as Norwegian homes,
according to the background, taste and means of those living there. This is just
one example’. But because ‘the background, taste and means’ of the fictive
inhabitants are not in any way expressed, as they are in all the other interiors,
this disclaimer becomes something of an empty gesture. The ethnicity of the
majority population is rarely, if ever, articulated or made relevant, whereas it
often becomes the defining feature of minorities. The same mechanism is at
work when Sami craft is always expected to primarily express an innate ‘Saminess’ (Guttorm 2004: 58–60).
In a sustained effort across many media (exhibitions, television, publications) at diversifying the representation of the material culture of Caribbean
diaspora in Britain, Michael McMillan has argued for the need to account for its
great variety and tensions formed along axes like geography, gender, generations
and class to avoid such stereotyping and essentialism (McMillan 2009a; 2009b).
Lacking the complexity of McMillan’s work, the ethnic and aesthetic stereotypes presented in A Pakistani Home in Norway – 2002 can be seen as emblematic of massive challenges faced by museums charged with communicating the
(design) histories of ethnic and national communities (Peressut and Pozzi 2012).
The result is often, according to Olav Christensen, ‘oversimplification and a
dearth of nuance in issues of “us” versus “them”, or inclusion and exclusion . . .
[M]useums far more commonly present national and ethnic communities as
closed and restricted rather than as open, inclusive and dynamic’ (Christensen
2013: 164).The result can all too often become a reductive rendering of history
and of material culture, petrifying rather than challenging stereotypes of ethnic
and national identities.
‘Othering’ is an efficient way of enhancing certain traits in the dominant
narrative. Rather than infusing Nordic design history with much-needed
heterogeneity, the Pakistani interior accentuates the homogeneity of the
master narrative. As such, it can be considered an exercise in what Fredrik
Barth calls ‘boundary maintenance’, a crucial feature of identity formation even
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Articulating Heterogeneous Material Cultures in Norway and Sweden
179
in poly-ethnic societies (Barth 1969). The ‘otherness’ of A Pakistani Home in
Norway – 2002 is also testament to the suggestion that the Norwegian Museum
of Cultural History is perhaps not so much representing a history of Norway as
a history of Norwegian historical identity.
Normative Materiality
In the catalogue for the Swedish Modern exhibition at the 1939 New York
World’s Fair, the concept ‘folk art’ is mentioned as being kept alive by the
farming population. Stemming from ‘outside sources’, it had over the centuries been re-shaped ‘in accordance with the needs of the people, their character, and the natural conditions prevailing in the part of the country in which
they lived’ (Stavenow et al. 1939: 11). This definition of the national handicraft
tradition is still very much present in the heritage museums today, underpinning and anchoring the national identity. Handicraft organizations such as The
National Association of Swedish Handicraft Societies and The Norwegian
Folk Art and Craft Association were vital in establishing and mediating this
conception of national craft traditions and making them a staple of Nordic
design histories.
Ethnologist Charlotte Hyltén-Cavallius reveals how folk art was perceived
as independently developed, with limited influences from other cultures. The
folk craft was seen as being the product of a domestic condition with regional
differences concerning climate, natural resources and aesthetic preferences. A
specific Swedish logic was articulated where certain materials, quality and
techniques were defined as ‘authentically Swedish’. Cotton was perceived
as foreign, whereas wool and linen were considered appropriate. Synthetic
colours were not allowed; natural dyes were encouraged. Crochet was considered lazy as it could be made in a semi-reclining position. It was perceived as a
sign of low working morale. Therefore it had to be opposed by the advocates
of the ‘authentic Swedish’ (Hyltén-Cavallius 2007). Formulated at the turn of
the twentieth century, this understanding of the ‘authentic’ is still, to a large
extent, a prominent point of reference in defining Swedish handicraft. This
line of reasoning is not only present in Sweden; it crops up repeatedly also
in Norway. In the 1960s, Norwegian designers and theorists argued against
the widespread use of exotic timbers in Scandinavian furniture design on the
premise that these were foreign and unnatural, instead championing locally
available materials as more ‘appropriate’ for Scandinavian design (Fallan 2011:
34–36).
Sustaining and formulating this authentic heritage became an issue for the
Swedish government in the early twentieth century. In 1918 a governmental
report outlining a national support system for Swedish handicraft was published
(Hyltén-Cavallius 2007: 115). Here we find the same historical narrative as in
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the Swedish Modern catalogue: farmers were crafting the tradition. In the 1918
report a system was formulated where the craft of the Sami were placed outside
the handicraft tradition defined as eligible for support. The Sami constituted
‘an indigenous population whose homeland cuts across national boundaries’
and was therefore fundamentally unstable and a poor fit with the distinctly
national framework of governmental structures.The report ascribed ‘significant
cultural values’ to Sami craft but considered it unable to progress in relation
to modernity, and therefore ineligible for subsidies. Removed from ‘its natural
habitat’ it would lose all its relevance. Sami craft, with its limited and ‘primitive’
materials, would be reduced to a curiosity with no value beyond the realm
of tourist craft, and would thus be vulgarized (Holmquist et al. 1918). This
view of Sami craft corresponded completely with the contemporary and
enduring official national policy on Swedish-Sami relations where the Sami
people were to live parallel to, or outside, modern society in order to preserve
their ‘traditional lifestyle’. Sami craft was, along with the Sami people, to be
kept outside modernity, not to ‘sip from the cup of civilization’ as this would
ruin their traditional lifestyle (Sjögren 2009). Later efforts at coining national
policies for craft heritage and practice would include Sami craft, but always as
a separate category. In this practice of monitoring ‘the tradition’, the treatment
of Sami craft is a direct parallel to the ‘border maintenance’ (Barth 1969)
exercise identified in the Pakistani interior discussed above.
Even though there is some horn craft represented in the Swedish Modern
catalogue, Sami material culture has been virtually ignored in Nordic design
history. This can to a large extent be explained by its sustained categorization as ‘primitive’, or ‘non-modern’, and therefore not in compliance with
design history’s conventional bias towards industrial manufacture, applied art
and aesthetic innovation in the modern sense. A rare exception to this ignorance is renowned Swedish design historian and critic Ulf Hård af Segerstad’s
1971 book on Sami craft. His admiration and respect for the subject matter
is palpable, as is his struggle to make it fit the conventional categories and
approaches of his art historical training. In line with earlier views on Sami
craft, Hård af Segerstad asserts that in order to remain relevant and vital, it
must move from ‘folk craft’ to ‘art craft’ in a development modelled on the
history of domestic craft in Scandinavia a century earlier (Hård af Segersted
1971: 96–99). Although obviously well meant, and perhaps quite progressive for its time, today his recommendation appears ‘colonialist’ or at least
patronizing as it implies imposing on Sami culture and Sami practitioners a
Western/white conception of craft and aesthetic value: ‘White aesthetics has
perpetuated understandings of art which have marginalized minorities, while
at the same time creating myths of purity and disinterestedness’ (Heith 2012:
159).
Even publications emphatically avoiding the now oft-made conflation
of design and industrial design, such as art historical treatments of pre- and
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Articulating Heterogeneous Material Cultures in Norway and Sweden
181
non-industrial design (normally using the nomenclature of applied art, decorative art, folk art, etc.) have found little or no space for Sami design culture
(Hopstock 1958; Hauglid 1977). Not even Peder Anker, former director of the
West Norway Museum of Decorative Art, makes any mention at all of Sami
craft in his recently revised book, purportedly updated to reflect ‘what has
happened since [the publication of the previous editions in 1975 and 1998] in
the research into and perception of Norwegian folk art’ (Anker 2004: 8). He
thus seems to apply an ethnic rather than a geopolitical definition of what is
‘Norwegian’ – a definition which should be problematic to twentieth-century
historians of any nation.
Sami representation in the exhibition histories of Norway’s three decorative
arts museums (est. 1876, 1887, 1893) is equally scarce. The National Museum
of Decorative Arts in Trondheim staged a major show on historical Sami craft
in 1971, and then a smaller travelling exhibition on contemporary Sami craft
in 1985. In the catalogue of the latter event, the continuing craft tradition is
presented as a defence mechanism against all the hardship and exploitation
suffered by the Sami under colonial rule and ‘an activity important for the
preservation of Sami culture’ (Teigmo Eira 1985).
In his study of museum exhibitions of Sami culture, Stein R. Mathisen
has argued that the objects on show are usually selected based on their
distinctiveness, their difference from majority culture, thus simultaneously
homogenizing, aestheticizing and ‘exotifying’ Sami culture:
Although the artefacts are collected from a large geographical area, one is still
left with the impression of a homogeneous culture without significant local
variations. Correspondingly, it is difficult to ascertain the temporal origin of the
selected artefacts. It is all placed in some sort of ‘ethnographic present’, where
time, periodization or development are not significant factors in understanding
a cultural condition. This unclear temporal and geographical contextualization
of Sami culture gives the impression of ‘mythical time and mythical expanse’.
(Mathisen 2004: 16)
Mathisen concludes that these exhibitions are problematic for two reasons:
firstly, they ‘construct and mediate images of cultures as homogenous, static and
belonging to the past’, and, secondly, ‘because the narratorial perspective itself
stems from a colonial situation’ (Mathisen 2004: 22).
Mathisen points towards current difficulties in dealing with cultural
representations of differences in the Nordic countries. However, a significant
academic discourse on understanding Sami culture in a postcolonial perspective
is now developing in the Nordic countries. This discourse has in turn directed
attention also to the material cultures of other minorities whose belongings and
domestic environments have been not only ignored in the writing of history,
but even systematically eradicated. One such group is the Roma minority,
which has long been subject to control and exclusion.
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Kjetil Fallan and Christina Zetterlund
Missing Materialities
In September 2013, the Swedish newspaper Dagens Nyheter revealed that the
Swedish police had been making a register of Roma people (Orrenius 2013). In
a file marked ‘vagrants’ 4000 individuals – including children – were registered.
Five months earlier, the Vice-Chairman of the Norwegian right-wing Progress
Party suggested banning Roma people from Norway (Zaman 2013). These are
just two of many incidents and part of a long, often brutal, history of control
and exclusion, jarringly at odds with the perceived values of Nordic societies
(Aronsson and Gradén 2013: 3).
In early twentieth-century Norway camps for the detainment of these
‘vagrants’ were established. The most famous camp was Svanviken work
colony in Eide, between Kristiansund and Molde, on the west coast of
Norway. Opened in 1908 and operative until 1989, the camp was run by the
Norwegian Vagrant Mission. Travellers and Roma people were detained here
to be ‘re-programmed’: no value was given to old traditions; instead they were
to be ‘integrated’ in Norwegian majority culture. They were not allowed
to speak their own language within the camp. Carefully monitored by the
wardens, the inhabitants were to learn how to become productive citizens,
including finding ‘honest work’, to become a part of modernity as defined
by the majority. This control continued after the inhabitants left the camp, e.g.
through threats to take away their children – an effective way of making the
former detainees comply with the rules. Between 1949 and 1970 thirty-seven
per cent of the camp inhabitants were sterilized, a practice resulting from a
1934 law regulating voluntary as well as forced sterilization of Roma people
(Bastrup and Sivertsen 1996). Similar laws and practices were widely used
as methods of control in Sweden. According to Etienne Balibar the nomad
undercuts the power of the state and its possibility of forming collective
subjects:
To ‘territorialize’ means to assign ‘identities’ for collective subjects within structures
of power, and, therefore, to categorize and individualize human beings and the figure
of the ‘citizen’ (with its statutory conditions of birth and place, its different subcategories, spheres of activity, processes of formation) is exactly a way of categorizing
individuals. Such a process is possible only if other figures of the ‘subject’ are violently or peacefully removed, coercively, or voluntarily destroyed. It is also always
haunted, as it were, by the possibility that outsiders or ‘nomadic subjects’, in the
broad sense, resist territorialization, remain located outside the normative ‘political
space’ in the land of (political) nowhere which can also become a counter-political or
an anti-political space. (Balibar 2009)
In order to avoid this threat of the anti-political space ‘the nomad’ had
to be controlled and excluded. Several initiatives to enforce this policy were
established throughout the Nordic countries. In Sweden, Roma people were
forced nomads. Due to laws and local practices Roma people were not allowed
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Articulating Heterogeneous Material Cultures in Norway and Sweden
183
to stay more than three weeks in one place.This made it difficult for the Roma
children to attend school, for instance. These local practices against permanent
settlements have made traces of Roma material culture scarce – a fact that
has contributed to its eradication from Nordic national identities as well as
from design history writing (Grahn 2011). Large institutions such as Nordiska
museet do have some material about Roma people and Travellers. However,
most of it is produced about Roma and Travellers, not by them. The same
applies to the recent exhibition at Oslo Museum, Norvegiska Romá: Norske sigøynere (Norvegiska Romá: Norwegian Gypsies), which opened in September 2014
(Halland Rashidi 2015). As a result, there are but few objects in the collections
that reflect and document Roma design and making practices.
Yet, despite these attempts at eradication, in the first part of the twentieth
century traces of individuals and also of their material practices were recorded
in official documents such as governmental reports (Linders et al. 1923). One
such example is a governmental report from 1923, Proposal for a law concerning the
treatment of vagrants, containing an appendix on an ‘inquiry into the manner of
living of Travellers and Roma people’. Here Travellers and Roma people were
mapped with the help of the police. Alongside reports on characters and living
conditions is an account of incomes where coppersmithing and other metal
work are mentioned as common professions, as well as basketry, brush making
and paper flower making (Linders et al. 1923: 2). Clearly this production could
be made part of a Swedish craft and design history yet this has not been present
in design historical or applied art institutions.
However, there is one notable exception to this absence: the jewellery artist
Rosa Taikon. The daughter of a goldsmith trained in Samarkand, Uzbekistan,
she attended Konstfack University College of Art, Crafts and Design in the
1960s. She developed a jewellery practice that combined traditional Roma
craft with the visual and material language of modernist art. Her work was,
and still is, being exhibited in large art and craft institutions. Rosa Taikon
has had solo exhibitions at The Röhsska Museum in Gothenburg and at the
National Museum in Stockholm. In the autumn of 2011 the Nordic Museum
in Stockholm staged an exhibition showing not just her jewellery but also
her longstanding work for the rights of the Roma people that she undertook
with her sister, the famous author and human rights activist Katarina Taikon.
Rosa Taikon was the first in her family to gain a wider recognition by national
institutions for her craft. Yet, her inclusion highlights the absence of her
references, the Roma tradition, within the institutions. It is an absence that
calls attention to the principles for writing Swedish craft and design history.
Here a homogeneity has been constructed and the intellectual bourgeoisie
has been the assumed design historical subject of modern design history
writing (Zetterlund 2012). However, institutions are beginning to formulate
the material culture history of Roma people. Recently, a collaboration was
initiated between Roma organizations, the Swedish History Museum and
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184
Kjetil Fallan and Christina Zetterlund
Fig. 10.5 Pagod, silver ring by Rosa Taikon. Photo: Karolina Kristensson. Courtesy of
Nordiska museet.
the Multicultural Centre with the aim to materialize some of the historical
sites in Stockholm. By archaeological excavation of former Roma campsites
alongside collecting life stories, the project aims to demonstrate the presence
of the Roma people in the Stockholm area. Perhaps the White Paper on abuses
and rights violations of Roma during the twentieth century published by the
Swedish Government in March 2014 will speed up this process of creating a
material presence (Arbetsmarknadsdepartementet 2014: 8).
Conclusion
In this chapter we have sought to demonstrate how design history in two Nordic
nations has harnessed heritage in constructing national narratives based on
a distinctly normative nativism and been impaired by missing materialities,
conjuring up particular images of Norwegian and Swedish design. As such, the
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Articulating Heterogeneous Material Cultures in Norway and Sweden
185
master narratives have produced a literature that is succinctly described by Lisa
Banu, in her postcolonial critique, as ‘normative design history’ (Banu 2009:
315).The apparent harmony and homogeny of Nordic design history, then, must
be challenged, because, as Partha Chatterjee reminds us, ‘behind the gesture of
universal inclusiveness is hidden a more subtle game of exclusions (Chatterjee
2010: 156). We hope to have revealed some of these subtle games, in particular
as they relate to design history’s role in formulating what is commonly referred
to as the Nordic Model (Brandal et al. 2013). We have shown how the Nordic
welfare states have controlled and continuously excluded difference, and how
the normative notion of modernity that has been vital in formulating a Nordic
design identity presupposes an exclusion of otherness in its construction. Like
other strands of historical scholarship in the Nordic countries, design history
has ‘always had an integrative task. This has led to the overemphasizing of the
homogeneity of society and the uniformity of historical experience’ (Aronsson
et al. 2008: 281). Design history then becomes a vital platform for discussing and
altering the notion of a homogenized past that underpins current nationalistic
discourses.
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Stockholm: Fritzes förlag.
Aronsson, P., N. Fulsås, P. Haapala and B.E. Jensen. 2008. ‘Nordic National Histories’, in S. Berger
and C. Lorenz (eds), The Contested Nation: Ethnicity, Class, Religion and Gender in National
Histories. Basingstoke: Palgrave Macmillan, pp. 256–282.
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Balibar, E. 2009. ‘Europe as borderland’, Environment and Planning D: Society and Space 27(2):
190–215.
Banu, L. 2009.‘Defining the Design Deficit in Bangladesh’, Journal of Design History 22(4): 309–323.
Barth, F. 1969. ‘Ethnic Groups and Boundaries’, in F. Barth (ed.), Ethnic Groups and Boundaries: the
Social Organization of Culture Difference. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., pp. 9–37.
Bastrup, O.R.E. and Aa.G. Sivertsen. 1996. En landevei mot undergangen. Utryddelsen av taterkulturen
Norge. Oslo: Universitetesforlaget.
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Bing, M., T. Kjos and B. Sandvik. 2011. En historiebok i tre etasjer: Boskikk i byen 1965–2002. Oslo:
Cappelen Damm.
Brandal, N., Ø. Bratberg and D.E.Thorsen. 2013. The Nordic Model of Social Democracy. Basingstoke:
Palgrave Macmillan.
Brunnström, L. 2010. Svensk designhistoria. Stockholm: Raster.
Chatterjee, P. 2010. Empire and Nation: Selected Essays. New York: Columbia University Press.
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Christensen, O. 2013. ‘“Nordic” as Border Country Rhetoric: Danish versus German in
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Performing Nordic Heritage: Everyday Practices and Institutional Culture. Farnham: Ashgate,
pp. 163–187.
Fallan, K. 2011. ‘“The ‘Designer’ – the 11th Plague”: Design Discourse from Consumer Activism
to Environmentalism in 1960s Norway’, Design Issues 27(4): 30–42.
Frayling, C. 2010. Henry Cole & the Chamber of Horrors: The Curious Origins of the V&A. London:
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Grahn, W. 2011. ’Intersektionella konstruktioner av norskhet i nutida kulturminnesförvaltning’,
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Zaman, K. 2013. ‘Per Sandberg: – Romfolk kan nektes adgang til Norge’, TV2.no, 29 April 2013.
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Kjetil Fallan is Professor of Design History at the University of Oslo, Norway.
His research interests include the history of industrial design, historiography,
design discourse and notions of sustainability in the history of design. He is the
author of Design History: Understanding Theory and Method (Berg 2010), editor
of Scandinavian Design: Alternative Histories (Berg 2012) and co-editor of Made
in Italy: Rethinking a Century of Italian Design (Bloomsbury Academic 2014).
Professor Fallan is also an editor of the Journal of Design History.
Christina Zetterlund is Professor of Design History at Konstfack University
College of Art, Crafts and Design, Stockholm, Sweden. Her research interests
include design historiography, museology and policy, as well as the history and
theory of craft. She is the author of Design i informationsåldern: Om strategisk
design i historia och praktik [Design in the Information Age: Historical and
Practical Perspectives on Strategical Design] (Raster 2002) and co-author of
Share This Book: Critical Perspectives and Dialogues About Design and Sustainability
(Axl Books 2013).
This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
CHAPTER
11
A Special Relationship
The UK–US Transatlantic Domestic Dialogue
Grace Lees-Maffei
Globalization behoves us to produce internationally situated investigations in
which national design histories are understood within international contexts.
Clearly, nations are not isolated entities; rather, they engage in multidirectional
dialogues, with neighbours, friends, influencers, trading partners and enemies.
Given the importance of intra-national liaisons it is surprising, not to say concerning, that so many academic studies of design are bound by national borders.
While the scholarship of globalization and national studies each raise methodological questions of coverage, treatment and representativeness, we need
not choose between them. There is a third way: transnational design history,
meaning design history which recognizes that design is not bounded by the
borders of nation states, and that it is necessary to examine more than one
nation and the relationships between nations to better reveal even national
histories of design.
Is it not the case that to truly understand what, if anything, is distinctive
about a nation, we must leave it, perceive it from a distance, appraise it from a
conceptual Archimedean point? Italian design, for example, is a myth as much
constructed in the design stores, magazines and galleries of London, New York,
Paris and Sydney as it is in the designs studios, factories and small- to mediumsized businesses of Milan, Florence, Turin or Rome (Lees-Maffei 2014).
Clearly, national studies may not only be written from outside the nation in
question, or written by foreigners. But, design historians should more often
undertake the greater work involved in transnational studies, supra-national
regional studies (studies of more than one nation within a defined region) and/
Notes for this section begin on page 206.
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The UK–US Transatlantic Domestic Dialogue
189
or comparative studies, in order to better reflect the ways in which design is,
and has been, conceived, produced, mediated and consumed. Just as designed
spaces, objects, images, processes and behaviours are capable of communicating
national identity, so a characteristic of globalization is the wider exchange of
people, ideas, goods and services across national borders.
The consumption and mediation in one place of goods, images or ideas
produced in another is a rich seam for historians of design and culture (LeesMaffei and Houze 2010: 465–510). When people move, they undergo a process
of acculturation or ‘transculturation’, as Fernando Ortiz put it in describing
Cuba particularly (1995 [1940]: 98). Ortiz’ concept of transculturation can be
applied to the movement of goods, images and ideas which requires a process
of acculturation on the part of producers, consumers and mediators. In his
monumental work of postcolonial theory, Edward Said (1978) has critiqued the
transcultural practice of ‘Orientalism’, characterized as exoticized representations
of a generalized middle- and far-‘East’. Said’s orientalism is literary, but designed
objects have been just as much the objects of orientalism, from the ‘Chinoiserie’
of the eighteenth-century British potteries’ willow pattern, inspired by Delft blue
variations on Chinese ceramics, to the mid- to late nineteenth-century trend for
‘Japonisme’. Also highly relevant for a transcultural and/or transnational design
history is Homi K. Bhabha’s (1994) postcolonial notion of ‘hybridity’ as a dialogue
between colonizer and colonized, rather than a binaristic and inflexible relation
of centre and margin. More recently, Marwan Kraidy (2002; 2005) has defined
‘hybridity as a space where intercultural and international communication
practices are continuously negotiated in interactions of differential power’ (2002:
317). He notes that this understanding of hybridity is informed both by critiques
of cultural imperialism, which allow for hybridity as a form of ‘resistance to
domination’, and warnings that ‘hybridity and domination are not mutually
exclusive’ (Kraidy 2002: 317). A tendency to celebrate cultural hybridity as a
form of transnational or multicultural communication needs to recognize that
the implicated nations are often engaged in unequal power relations.
Design is an excellent channel for symbolizing and mediating national
identities, and much work on national identity in design examines visual and
material culture which explicitly projects national identities. Here transnational design history is explored with reference to domestic advice literature –
defined as textual and visual representations of the social and material home
in etiquette, homemaking and home decoration books – a body of material
intended for domestic readerships which does not explicitly communicate
national identity. Domestic advice books are replete with ‘real ideals’ (LeesMaffei 2013) about the consumption of designed goods, spaces and services
which communicate national tendencies and identities. Yet, while there is a
burgeoning literature on nationalism and national identity, and a growing body
of scholarship on domestic advice, the two have rarely been brought together
satisfactorily.1 Analysis reveals that domestic advice books published in the UK
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Grace Lees-Maffei
and the USA exemplify transnational patterns of influence as US domestic
advice developed through a transatlantic domestic dialogue with the UK, via
published words about how homes should be designed, decorated and inhabited. This literature, based on English as a shared language, has been mutually informative and mutually constitutive. Proceeding from the position that
national identity cannot be understood solely from within a given focal nation,
this chapter argues that transnational or comparative design histories are better
fitted to understanding national identity in design and the transnational nature
of design and its histories.
Ideal Homes? National Identity, Homogeneity and Diversity
in US Domestic Discourse
Just as manners are markers of national identity – in that the people of different
nations display different behaviours, as do people from different regions, whether
sub- or supra-national – so advice literature has been a tool in the formation
of national identity. Domestic advice literature constitutes a semantically
rich genre of discourse in which the conceptualization and realization of the
physical home, its production, consumption and mediation, are bound up with
larger homes: the home nation and the nation state. These degrees of home
are conflated in domestic advice which seeks to provide normative, shared
designs for living in articulations of domestic practices which have been or are
intended to be naturalized, if not as local, regional and national customs, then
certainly as generally accepted patterns of behaviour.
For example, Sarah A. Leavitt (2002) has discussed the role of homemaking
literature in Americanization (which should more accurately be termed
‘US-ization’), the process of acculturation which turns immigrants into US
citizens. Leavitt explains that lace curtains were seen in the 1930s as a symbol
of aspiring to join the middle class, and as a decorative detail employed by
immigrants, or the ‘lace-curtain Irish’:
To domestic advisors, and to increasing numbers of Americans who encountered
and learned from them, lace curtains represented the past, the unsanitary, stuffy,
frilly, nineteenth century. The modern twentieth century, the age of efficiency
kitchens and sparse furnishings, would welcome only those women who embraced
the new ideals about American decoration. (Leavitt 2002: 96)
With reference to domestic discourse, Leavitt shows how lace curtains came
to function as a metonymic symbol for immigrant domesticities, old Europe
within the modern USA. The micro domesticity of the home and the macro
domesticity of the nation are fused in domestic advice discourse which presents the home as a microcosm of the nation. We can see the American Dream,
meaning the US Dream, depicted throughout the genre of domestic advice
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The UK–US Transatlantic Domestic Dialogue
191
Figure 11.1 Cover, Betty Crocker’s Guide to Easy Entertaining: How to Have Guests –
And Enjoy Them, New York: Golden Press, 1959. Illustrated by Peter Spier. Courtesy of
General Mills Archives.
literature as published in the USA. See, for example, Fig. 11.1 in which it takes
the form of a red-roofed home set in landscaped garden with a white picket
fence and a turkey (perhaps for Thanksgiving) alongside other indicators of
plenty and hospitality, represented with the appearance of needlepoint tapestry
on the cover of a book by General Mills’ invented celebrity chef, Betty Crocker.
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Grace Lees-Maffei
The national emphasis becomes problematic when it precludes adequate
recognition of international or transcultural influences. A focus on homemaking literature as constituting the home nation can lead to a tendency to address
cultures other than a dominant, normative mainstream (USA, in this case) only
when those cultures appear in the form of immigrants and can therefore be
claimed as US citizens, albeit the ‘other’ within the USA. For instance, the US
character of some practices, such as outdoor living, promoted in home decorating books is asserted rather than comparatively demonstrated (Leavitt 2002:
85). Relatedly, domestic designs influenced by modernism appear in a singlenation frame as more associated with the USA than they might in a transatlantic, transnational study which takes account of their European roots in, for
instance, British Arts and Crafts, Dutch De Stijl and German functionalism,
and recognizes the role of European émigrés in promoting modernism in the
USA (an influence so pronounced as to have attracted the satiric gaze of Tom
Wolfe [1981]). Finally, although the early influence of European sources on US
publications is mentioned, Leavitt’s statement that ‘Domestic advice manuals
originated in the 1830s’ (2002: 9) refers only to the US case. It obscures several
hundred years of advice published in Europe in response to modern tendencies
such as individualism, industrialization and urbanization (Elias 1994 [1939])
and three hundred years of transatlantic interchange between the UK and the
US (Maudlin and Peel 2013).
Leavitt is not alone in presenting a single-nation history of US advice; others
include John Kasson (1990), C. Dallett Hemphill (1999), Barbara Ehrenreich
and Deirdre English (2005 [1978]) and Lynn Peril (2002). Sue Currell’s analysis
of self-help and the USA in the 1930s consigns ‘the complex transatlantic
crossings in self-help traditions’ to a footnote in order to focus purely on the
USA (Currell 2006: 141). McHugh (1999) presents her analysis of the variable
visibility of housework in sources as diverse as nineteenth-century advice
books, Hollywood movies and later experimental films as one of ‘American
Domesticity’ rather than domesticity per se. Insights into the US condition/
psyche/dream are thereby implied, a promising marketing strategy for accessing
the US book-buying market and American Studies curricula. In fact, McHugh’s
claims for the American-ness (or, rather, US-ness) of the cultural artefacts she
examines are not made explicit and must therefore be assumed to be based on
the location of cultural production rather than the transnational flow of ideas
and ideals via transatlantic publishing activity and the international distribution
and exhibition of Hollywood studio movies, for instance.
The studies mentioned above characterize the erstwhile American Studies
project of determining ‘what has been unique about the American experience’
(meaning the US experience) (Campbell and Keane 1997:1).Towards the close
of the twentieth century – aka the ‘American century’ (Edwards and Gaonkar
2010: 1; Ellwood 2012) – the notion of US exceptionalism was increasingly
criticized as privileging dominant groups, promoting assimilation over pluralism
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and failing to engage in transnational comparison. American Studies scholarship has focused on the USA to the almost entire exclusion of the many nations
spread across the continents of North and South America, in a manner which
‘compounded earlier imperial gestures’ by asserting ‘a particular nation-state’s
claim to the powerful historical concept of “America”’ (Radway 1999: 6–7).2
In response, Radway prescribes ‘bifocal vision, a capacity to attend simultaneously to the local and the global as they are intricately intertwined’ and ‘a relational and comparative perspective’ (1999: 23–24).
Reflecting the intervening ‘transnational turn’ in American Studies (Tyrell
2009), Radway et al close a recent American Studies anthology with a section
on ‘Internationalization and Knowledge Production about American Studies’
(2009: 567–604). Therein Liam Kennedy promotes the study of the state
(meaning government) rather than the nation as a solution to the problems
resident in the European view of the USA and describes how Americanists,
or scholars of the USA, have sought ‘to dislocate the nation as an axis of focus’
through examination of ‘the transnational, the post-national, the transatlantic,
the Black Atlantic, the circumatlantic’ (Kennedy 2009: 574). Robyn Wiegman
itemizes the internationalization of American Studies as: (1) ‘explicating the
project of empire in US national-state formation’; (2) ‘rethinking identity formation as a material effect of the transnational history of US empire’; (3) border
studies refuting ‘notions of inside and outside that make nation formation distinct from the transnational circulations of people, goods, labor, culture and
knowledge’; (4) diaspora studies, ‘the intersection of African American and
African Studies’; (5) comparative studies ‘to decenter the US from its universal representation as the quintessential national form, thereby locating operations of culture in cross-national formulations that are multi-national in scope’;
(6) ‘the relation between the national and the international in the modes of
knowledge production at work in American Studies as a global scholarly enterprise’; and (7) ‘collaboration and comparative analysis’ in the context of ‘identificatory refusal with American American Studies’ (Wiegman 2009: 581–583).
Finally, Donatella Izzo cautions that ‘the opening of national frontiers and the
erasure of national labels often seem to operate as a unilateral assumption theorized as a universal intellectual need from the vantage point of a privileged
position within a strong institutional apparatus’ (Izzo 2009: 597). She points out
that this practice entails an ‘unacknowledged premise authorizing (and indeed
enforcing) the reduction of multiplicity to unity’ (598):
We should not delude ourselves as to the actual existence of an ‘outside’ of
American Studies that is not always already coextensive with the inside, at the very
moment that it is co-opted into its disciplinary field, drawn into its apparatus, and
geared to its institutional mode of operation. However much we may intellectually
and politically foster a recognition of cultural diversity inside the US and an awareness of its manifold world transactions, we’ll be still tautologically differentiating
and enlarging the same field. (Izzo 2009: 598)
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She counsels treatment of the nation as a historical and political category,
and a non-hierarchical approach to accessing ‘the historically specific “otherness” of each individual other’ (599). The transnational turn in American
Studies is now established (Edwards and Gaonkar 2010; Fluck, Pease and Rowe
2011; Bieger, Saldívar and Voelz 2013).
Scholarship in the design history of the US (Meikle 1985; Margolin 1988)
echoes the broader currents of American Studies in a shift from the articulation of an ‘American’ aesthetic in design (Meikle 1979; Bush 1975) to revisionist work which shows the so-called ‘American’ aesthetic to have been
‘a transatlantic collaboration that embodied the contradictions of modernity’
(Maffei 2003: 369). But writing on national identity in design more generally has tended to communicate convergence around national tropes, rather
than tracing divergence within national identities, and the same critique can
be levelled at writing on domestic advice. National identity is the place we
come together: in celebrations of our winning sports teams, in rituals of state
leadership such as presidential swearings-in and royal coronations, in national
holidays. But even while US national identity in particular is predicated upon
ethnic diversity, the normalizing function of domestic advice discourses –
which tends to mean that a white middle class ideal is published for white
middle class readers to follow – has not allowed the close relationship between
the physical home and the nation as home which underpins domestic advice
literature to reflect the longstanding ethnic diversity of the USA, and the
increasingly multicultural nature of the UK population since 1945. In turn, the
few academic studies of domestic advice have replicated the selective representations of national identity found in the source material and have overlooked
cultural diversity.
How might this impasse be overcome? We can borrow from reception
theory (Iser 1974; 1978) and feminist literary theory (Ardener 1975; Showalter
1979; 1981; 1986; Lerner 1979) the understanding that gaps and silences
in domestic advice books are semantically rich: what is not said is as powerful as what is said in creating ideals which subjugate certain groups and voices.
Emma Ferry’s (2003) analysis of British home decoration literature is an exemplary design historical application of this method for better understanding
gender. The approach may be extended still further to national identity in
design and design discourse: because ethnic diversity is ignored in mainstream
media treatments of domesticity, an analysis which reads between the lines to
understand how race/ethnic and cultural diversities are encoded in domestic
advice discourses may be fruitful.
An example of such work is Dianne Harris’s Little White Houses
(2013). Harris examines houses and their representations, including
textual and visual sources from mass market magazines, trade journals and
catalogues for what they tell us of race in the USA and its construction
through building and domestic practices in an era when all-white housing
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developments typically excluded working-class, African-American and Jewish
families. Harris confirms that postwar mainstream mass-market publications
depicted only white families and presented whiteness (broadly conceived) as
normative, to the extent that non-whites are virtually invisible in these
sources. Harris sees whiteness, and therefore race, encoded in ‘words such
as informality, casual lifestyle, leisure, individuality, privacy, uncluttered, and
even clean’ (Harris 2013: 60). She perceives whiteness in the aerial perspective
and axonometric views employed in architectural drawings published in
magazine articles, advertisements and trade brochures, where ‘no viewer is
defined or specified, because the assumed viewer is white and middle class,
an assumption of unitary/collective identity that suppresses alternatives’
(Harris 2013: 89). Slavoj Žižek’s notion of ideological cynicism is invoked
to suggest that post-war US citizens were both aware of the ways in which
economically valuable whiteness was instantiated in their homes and at the
same time regarded ‘themselves as entirely unracialized, their spaces as raceneutral’ (Harris 2013: 13).3
But, by consulting only ‘white’ media sources rather than analysing Ebony
magazine (founded in 1945), for example, or other publications that might
have revealed more about postwar ethnic diversity, Harris has demonstrated the
difficulty of finding meaning between the lines of domestic advice discourses.
The risk is one of reproducing the ideological bias of mainstream media source
material, so that a book critiquing whiteness in postwar US domestic advice
furthers the discourse of whiteness. This approach is, I suggest, more limiting
than the retrieval and analysis of sources outside the mainstream media, which
speak more directly from and of the constituencies of interest. Among a small
number of valuable examples (Chambers 2006, Leslie 1995), Elisabeth LaschQuinn’s analysis of ‘Prescriptions for Interracial Conduct from the 1960s to the
1990s’ (1999) makes a significant contribution to knowledge and understanding of the ways in which US ethnic diversity was addressed in a wide range
of twentieth-century advice discourses, from mainstream Hollywood movies
to etiquette guides for black and white readers respectively. Lasch-Quinn’s
account of the awkwardness, inconsistency, optimism and latent prejudices of
this material is a model for design histories attentive to diversity in national
identities.
Thus far, one methodological faultline has been discerned: the homogenizing normative ideals promoted in domestic advice books have (with a few very
useful exceptions) mainly produced analyses which, however well-intentioned,
have not adequately addressed the divergent nature of nations and national
identities. Now I will turn to a second, related, methodological issue in the
writing of national design histories using domestic advice: international interactions and the significance of transnational contexts.
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Hybridity at Home: A UK–US Transatlantic Domestic
Dialogue
While the cultural homogeneity of the domestic advice genre and its failure to
reflect the diversity of the national markets into which the books were published
has been replicated in analyses of domestic advice, the single nation emphasis in
the domestic advice genre has not precluded trans- and multinational analyses,
of which there are several notable examples.
Historical sociologist Norbert Elias produced the first extended
transnational analysis of domestic advice. He articulated ‘figuration sociology’
as a model in which individuals or ‘personality structures’ are conditioned by
‘social structures’ such as etiquette. Having worked in Germany, the UK, the
Netherlands and Ghana, Elias understood that in order to analyse the structural
place of individuals within society, it was necessary to examine more than one
society. In The Civilizing Process (1994 [1939]) he used etiquette books published
in Britain, Germany and France to trace increasing interdependence between
individuals and states in Europe over the past four hundred years. International
trade requires the maintenance of good relations with a wide range of people,
and a generally acceptable standard of behaviour. Elias argued that societies
become more civilized as the centralization of state violence influences
individuals to increasingly internalize social codes of self-control and politeness.
He regarded the apparent increasing informality of twentieth-century social
relations as an external impression that obscured the internalization of restraint,
or ‘controlled decontrolling’ (see Wouters 2007: 231).
Advice literature has been proposed as useful in understanding social
interaction and international relations. Arthur M. Schlesinger Snr’s Learning to
Behave (1968 [1946]) closes with a postwar panegyric on the role of etiquette
literature as a lingua franca for improving international relations and maintaining
world peace, in that it could help people from different countries to understand
and show respect for one another.4 Schlesinger traced a history of US etiquette
books beginning with the influence of European (and especially English)
advice on emergent US advice, in the form of imported copies of British and
French advice books being sold and otherwise circulated by the early settlers.
Subsequently, copies of the imported titles were printed in the USA, before
adaptations were published to combine European influences and American
needs and preferences. According to Schlesinger, it was not until the 1830s that
a desire to cast off ‘imported superfluities’ of behaviour led to the production
and consumption of distinctly US advice books.
Just as European codes of conduct reached a flamboyant apogee (Davidoff
1973; St. George 1993), books articulating specifically US manners were concerned with more basic living conditions in the new world. Following Lydia
Maria Child’s The American Frugal Housewife (1829) among other examples,
Dr A.W. Chase’s books for pioneers advised on making frontier country
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habitable (e.g. Chase 1873). Like Schlesinger and Hemphill (1999: 131), Linda
Young agrees that the emergence of particularly North American or US
modes of behaviour distinct from European habits did not remove an evident
interplay between European and US mid-twentieth-century advice texts. But
Young makes the important distinction that ‘the growth of genteel etiquette in
the United States encompassed one important condition that did not apply in
Britain or its colonies: democracy. How could a system of manners grounded
in class distinction have a place in a republic of equal citizens?’ For US citizens, etiquette was a route to ‘middle classness more than aristocracy’ (Young
2003: 151). This insight derives from Young’s comparative method. Whereas
Schlesinger and Hemphill focus on the USA over the longue durée, Young’s
study rather extends geographically from the USA to Britain and Australia.
Schlesinger’s book remains an exemplary national study, in which the first
section traces complex international influences and the closing part returns
to transnational considerations, but Young’s fully comparative transnational
method contributes another dimension of understanding didactic discourses in
all three of her focal nations.
Young’s is one of several valuably transnational studies of advice which
are more or less Eliasian. Jorge Arditi’s Genealogy of Manners (1998) applies
Elias’s long view of changes in the social infrastructure to a comparison of
France and England,5 and Cas Wouters’ comparative studies of etiquette in the
Netherlands, France, Britain and the UK in the twentieth century (1995; 2007)
counter Elias’s model of controlled decontrolling through examination of the
dynamic relations between various classes, and between the sexes. Along with
these properly transnational, multi-national and comparative studies of domestic advice, single nation studies are most effective when they are enriched and
made more meaningful through the integration of the transnational capacity of
domestic advice, as in Schlesinger’s book. The ideas and ideals of home communicated in domestic advice books are not static, even though they may be
seen to amount to a set of traditions. Rather, they are constantly negotiated, in
a balance of tradition and modernity (Lees-Maffei 2001) in which the genre
collectively takes on board new, including international, practices and discards
the outmoded, point by point.
Penny Sparke has recognized reciprocity in the ideas and ideals of domesticity disseminated in US and UK publishing: ‘Through the last decades of
the nineteenth century, strong links were established between British and
American [decorating] publications as editions of key texts appeared on both
sides of the Atlantic’ (Sparke 2003: 65). She cites Charles Eastlake’s Hints on
Household Taste of 1868, which was enormously influential in the USA on its
publication there four years later, and notes the correlation between the titles
published collectively by Macmillan in Britain as the ‘Art at Home’ series and
the US writer Clarence Cook’s influential manifesto about aestheticism in the
household The House Beautiful of 1878. Sparke observes that ‘publications of
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the 1870s and 1880s on both sides of the Atlantic shared a commitment to
the concepts of good taste, good workmanship and the importance of “art” in
the home’ (Sparke 2003: 65). This convergence continued into the twentieth
century (and persists today), so that many titles – including for example US
doyenne of manners Emily Post’s Etiquette (1922; 1927) and British writer
Shirley Conran’s Superwoman (1975) – were published more or less simultaneously in the UK and USA and the intertextual references which advice writers
routinely make to the work of other advisors and existing works of advice
are as likely to be transatlantic as they are to reference material from the same
nation (Lees-Maffei 2013: 5). A concern for currency has led advice writers
to use contemporary idiomatic expressions which may indicate varying levels
of transatlantic influence, such as the increasing Americanization (US-ization)
of the language used by Lady Troubridge in her successive books (Lees-Maffei
2013: 18–19).
This dialogic publishing activity reflects similarly convergent domestic
practices in the UK and the USA, and in the transatlantic relationship between
the US and Western Europe. For example, as a leading exponent of the application of efficiency studies and Scientific Management to homemaking, Christine
Frederick (1920 [1919]) exerted a transatlantic influence as well as a national one.
Designer Margrete Lihostsky acknowledged her debt to Frederick in designing the first fitted kitchen, the ‘Frankfurt Kitchen’, for public housing in that
German city in 1926 (Lees-Maffei 2013: 123). Frederick also influenced leading
US etiquette writer Emily Post in her recommendations about designing
domestic spaces with a view to ‘saving steps’ as this diagram of ‘An Ideal Kitchen
Arrangement’ (Fig. 11.2) from Post’s book The Personality of a House (1948)
makes clear.
This rational domesticity also underpinned the consumer movement on
both sides of the Atlantic which responded to the spread of consumerism seen
in, for example, the identification of new consumer groups such as the teenager
in the UK and the US (Abrams 1959; Life 1959).The consumer movement also
responded to unease about the spread of consumerism and informed discourses
of domesticity by introducing consumer education (see, for example, Fig. 11.3)
and the tropes and techniques of rationalism (Lees-Maffei 2013: 26).
The shared project noted by Schlesinger, Young, Sparke and others
continued into the twentieth century in a dialogical process characterized
in part, but not exclusively, by Americanization/US-ization. For example, in
discussing the promotion of modernism by the BBC from 1912 to 1944, Julian
Holder concludes:
While considerable effort by Modernist design reformers was being put into
influencing consumer behaviour, American films, music and products were
forming much of the public’s taste. [. . .] The voice of the BBC as the ‘Voice of
the Nation’ was unable to combat the Americanisation of British taste during this
century. (Holder 1990: 142–143)
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The UK–US Transatlantic Domestic Dialogue
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Figure 11.2 ‘An Ideal Kitchen Arrangement’, illustration by Stephen J.Voorhies,
Fig. 137 in Emily Post, The Personality of a House, fourth edition 1948 [1930],
New York and London: Funk and Wagnalls Company, p. 398.
Americanization/US-ization was a concern for domestic advisors writing
on issues ranging from youth culture to consumerism, and from the increase
of US brides in the British aristocracy (Cannadine 1990: 347) to the use of
informal US conversational idioms. British advice author Pam Lyons insisted
that ‘even in younger circles, “Hi” is definitely “out”!’ (Lyons 1967: 45l; LeesMaffei 2013: 155). In caricaturing the discomfort felt by the British in the face
of US informality in a humorous advice book authored by a British aristocrat, the Duke of Bedford, illustrator Nicolas Bentley represents a US citizen
as overly familiar in his use of informal language (‘Hi-ya’), his use of nick
names (‘Johnny boy’), his dispensing with the formal necessity of a third-party
introduction and following an entirely different sartorial code, not to mention
his pungent and prominent cigar.
In turn, US advice authors were self-conscious about what they regarded as
distinctly American habits. Californian teachers, Betty Allen and Mitchell Pirie
Briggs, reflected in If You Please! A Book of Manners for Young Moderns: ‘It seems
to be a part of the American philosophy to welcome variety and change. In
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Figure 11.3 Teen decorator. Image ‘Courtesy Dow Chemical Company’, in Teen
Guide to Homemaking, edited by Marion Stearns Barclay and Frances Champion, New
York and London: McGraw-Hill Book Company Inc., 1961, p. 205. Courtesy Dow
CC-BY-NC.
dress we are inclined quickly to discard the old and eagerly grasp the new’
(Allen and Briggs 1950 [1942]: 34). In Behave Yourself! Etiquette for American Youth
they imply a distinctly US aesthetic when they assert that ‘Good grooming is
as much a part of modern life as is streamlining’ (Allen and Briggs, 1950 [1945]
[1937]: 16).
Informal manners have been presented as an US national trait, not only
in British domestic advice literature with its implied fear of Americanization/
US-ization, but also through analysis of claims in US-produced titles of the
forging of US manners. The pre-eminent US advice writer, Emily Post, continually adapted her advice to keep pace with the informalization of US
society (Lees-Maffei 2012), from the first revision of her book Etiquette which
responded to the influence of competing advice writer Lillian Eichler (Eichler
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The UK–US Transatlantic Domestic Dialogue
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Figure 11.4 ‘Hi-ya, Johnny boy!’ illustration by Nicolas Bentley, in The Duke of
Bedford’s Book of Snobs, John, Duke of Bedford in collaboration with George Miles,
London: Peter Owen, 1965, p. 51.
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1922 [1921]; Post 1922; 1927; Schlesinger 1968 [1946]; Arditi 1998; LeesMaffei 2012) and in every subsequent edition. Yet she was later ridiculed by
authors of ‘the new hospitality’, Mary and Russel Wright (Wright and Wright
1954 [1950]), who saw her not as the arbiter of US etiquette, but rather as
a proselytizer for English manners at odds with the ‘easier’, more informal
needs of mid-century US citizens (Lees-Maffei 2011; Havenhand 2014). The
Wrights’ own Guide to Easier Living (1954 [1950]) was a landmark text in the
development of informal ‘American’ home entertaining in the post-World
War II period. See, for example, their advice on serving meals to guests at
a ‘Kitchen Buffet’ (Fig. 11.5) and their recommendations that cleaning up
after a meal can be part of the evening’s entertainment (Lees-Maffei 2011:
189).
However, notwithstanding Victoria de Grazia’s (2006) claims for the
resounding victory of Americanization/US-ization, it was not a one-way
street. Rather, two-way traffic might be a better metaphor for understanding the mutual influence of the USA and those countries in which
Americanization/US-ization was bemoaned, if not a crossroads, or pile-up of
multiple influences. Recognition of greater complexity in twentieth-century
Americanization in design is provided by Leavitt, for example, who allows for
the influence of Swiss Architect Le Corbusier on US domestic advice writers
(2002: 104, 121); by Kjetil Fallan, who has shown how design discourse bore
evidence of a shift from enthusiasm to questioning of US influences (Fallan
2015); and by Maiken Umbach (2002) who traces the global relevance of the
Figure 11.5 ‘The Kitchen Buffet’, illustration by James Kingsland, in Mary and
Russel Wright, Guide to Easier Living, New York: Simon and Schuster, 1954 (1950).
Permission Russel Wright Studios CC-BY.
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The UK–US Transatlantic Domestic Dialogue
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German notion of Heimat, and some useful transatlantic design history of the
period before the twentieth century (Jones 2013; Hinchcliffe 2013; Styles and
Vickery 2007).
Broadening Horizons: America in the World of Advice
Studies of specific nations which have negotiated their identities in relation to
external state(s) have been fruitful for the understanding of domestic advice
and what it can tell us about ideals of the consumption of design in the
home. This work extends beyond the understanding of a US-UK transatlantic
domestic dialogue to encompass wider concern for America and Britain in
the (rest of the) world. Young’s analysis of Middle Class Culture in the Nineteenth
Century: America, Australia and Britain derives from her curatorial practice in
Australia. Rather than accepting the preponderance in her Australian collections of objects which had been imported from colonial power Britain and
commercial power the USA6 as being based on ‘the Imperial agenda of supplying goods to the colonies’ and ‘American production strengths’ in mechanized and domestic products respectively, Young regards the similarity of
goods in Australia, Britain and the USA as evidence of a ‘demand for certain
kinds of items which both enabled and expressed a common pattern of values,
behaviours and beliefs: middle-class gentility’ (Young 2003: 6, 7, 8). Young
points out that ‘In the larger focus of transnationalism, the culture of the
international middle class was neither “British”, “American” nor “Australian”
but characteristic of “Greater” Britain’ (7). She is aware of the political implications of de-emphasizing difference, and that ‘admitting to continuity seems
to let down the spirit of the American Revolution, or to endorse the Old
World values that despatched the poor and the criminal from the motherland
to the antipodes’ (2003: 7). Yet Young makes clear the potency of consumer
goods, and particularly those associated with gentility, in colonial contexts:
‘The absence of a fresh tablecloth on the frontier table would indicate despairing failure in the project to re-create the genteel habitus. Wherever the tablecloth was victorious, the success of genteel culture was proved across the
globe’ (2003: 188).
Writing in her Domesticity in Colonial India, published a year after Young’s
book, Judith E. Walsh concurs that ‘During the nineteenth century, a collection
of middle-class European ideals and practices on home and family life became
a globally hegemonic discourse on domesticity [. . .] found in advice literature
and other writings on home and family life published in England and the
United States, as well as in colonial settings as diverse as India and Africa’
(Walsh 2004: 11). As a postcolonial study of colonial discourse, Walsh’s book is
necessarily transnational and transcultural. The colonial Indian domestic advice
books which Walsh examines:
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were shaped by a transnational domestic discourse. But they were also (and just as
profoundly) influenced by local worlds and their conditions: by the structures of
British power and presence in urban centers like Calcutta; by the changing nature
and demands of life under British rule; and by the indigenous contexts of home
and family life, the worlds of women, children and family elders. (Walsh 2004: 31)
By merging transnational and local concerns, Walsh’s focal texts exemplify
Bhabha’s hybridity, but she is careful to point out that while hybridity is ‘not a
concept usually applied to works within a Western cultural domain’, US advice
books such as Catharine Beecher’s Treatise on Domestic Economy (1841) instantiate
an accommodation of the transnational and the local in the same fashion as her
Bengali examples (Walsh 2004: 26). Her point is that Bengali advice writers
were deemed imitative and derivative, while Beecher was not. We can take
from this the qualification that hybridity is not a practice of collaboration that
transcends political specificities; rather hybrid texts embed politics specific to
the circumstances and geography of their production. For example, Walsh’s
primary interest is gender and she returns repeatedly to the politics of literacy,
noting that ‘Fluency in English, of course, gave the English-educated access to
all the discourses of British colonial modernity. And it gave them access to each
other’ (2004: 33), and that ‘this story of what women learned in nineteenthcentury Bengal and India need not conclude with nationalism and the end of
social reform in India [. . .] It can also conclude – and reasonably so – with a
large number of “literate and learning” women reading the texts of their pasts,
beginning to consider their options for the future’ (Walsh 2004: 159–160).
Literacy is critical, but it is not the whole story: Rosemary Marangoly
George’s interdisciplinary anthology explores ‘the rhetoric and practices of
domestication in contemporary cultures’ and demonstrates how ‘analyses
of domesticity itself can be used to critique the racialized and gendered logic of
nationalist and imperialist modernity from the late nineteenth century onward’
(George 1998a: 16). Chapters examine architecture, film, literature and food
packaging. George’s own chapter uses novels and homemaking guidebooks as
evidence of the perceived importance in the India Empire of Englishwomen’s
homemaking practices as imperial labour (George 1998b: 52). She observes ‘the
language of statecraft’ in Indian imperial domestic advice books, which seek to
persuade their English reader that ‘her triumph is to replicate the empire on
a domestic scale’ (George 1998b: 58, 57). George’s transnational perspective
enables her to observe that English novelists and advice writers working in
India enjoyed an ‘autonomy afforded by their dislocation’ which was not
experienced by English women in England (George 1998b: 67). Similarly,
Nancy R. Reagin’s Sweeping the German Nation: Domesticity and National Identity
in Germany, 1870–1945 (2007) avoids the pitfalls of a single nation study by
considering domesticity not only as a practice of national identity but also
one of colonialism in regions such as south-west Africa and the attempts to
‘Germanize’ eastern European neighbours.
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Conclusion: A Special Relationship
Domestic advice forms a rich resource for understanding the macro ‘home’ of
nation state via the microcosm of the physical family home, but this chapter
has outlined some drawbacks to the convenient category of the national,
and of national studies using US domestic advice as a case study. Domestic
advice books have largely ignored the complexity of national compositions
and identities and studies of this material have all too often followed suit.
An insistence on national borders as borders for understanding domestic
advice literature has obscured its role in mediating between nations and the
development of a UK-US transatlantic ‘domestic dialogue’ of several centuries
standing. It is not helpful to read domestic advice discourses on each side of the
Atlantic separately, and contemporary audiences did not read them as such. To
appreciate the importance of domestic advice literature in mediating national
identities, we must also consider its transnational significance.
This chapter contributes to Wiegman’s fifth project, of rethinking ‘area
studies models with more fluid and flexible ideas about nations as imaginary formations with deeply material effects’ (Wiegman 2009: 582). US domestic practices were forged in relation to European, and principally colonial British and
French exemplars and yet the old world colonizer’s influence, which extended
long after the formal ending of the colonial situation, has been superseded by the
postcolonial USA exerting a reciprocal influence on the UK and other nations
around the world through political, economic and military power and via the
processes of Americanization/US-ization, cultural imperialism and soft power
in the ‘American’ twentieth century. If the power relations between the UK
and the USA have undergone a revolution, both literally in the historical event
of revolution and subsequently as a result of the USA’s growing economic and
cultural dominance, the direction of influence has not simply reversed.
Although Britain is now less powerful in its postcolonial relationship
with the USA, a mutual influence prevails, perhaps particularly in the areas of
etiquette, homemaking and home decoration due to the roots of this discourse.
This domestic dialogue has seen the UK and the USA collaborating in the
articulation of domestic ideals in a manner indicative of Bhabha’s hybridity
as occurring in the cultural interactions of the colonizer and colonized.
Transatlantic negotiation is perceptible in, for example, advice which directly
addresses the inadequacy of British models of homemaking and etiquette for
the US settlers on the western frontier (Child 1829; Chase 1873), and advice
about managing the increasing influences of Americanization/US-ization in
post-World War II Britain (Lyons 1967). Notwithstanding successive revisions
in response to the influence of other texts, the Anglo-centrism of one landmark
US advice book (Post 1922; 1927) has been critiqued in another (Wright and
Wright 1954 [1950]). Furthermore, UK and US ideals and the relationship
between them resonated throughout the world so that the analysis of domestic
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Grace Lees-Maffei
advice, whether undertaken as a national study or as a transnational one,
must encompass a transnational perspective and a postcolonial recognition of
domesticity as a colonial practice, and domestic advice likewise, wherever it is
read.
Following extensive debates in fields other than design history, principally American Studies, this chapter has argued for transnational design history
as a more challenging but ultimately more rewarding approach than default
national studies. Work in American Studies which has responded to the critique of US exceptionalism has cautioned scholars of the USA about the need
to recognize the vantage points from which they research, write and make
judgments and the contexts within which they do those things, as a way of
avoiding a shift from the frying pan of nationalist myopia to the fire of universalizing and totalizing world views. Transnational design history allows for
multiple viewpoints which, rather than leading to universalizing statements
about a nation’s (in this case the US) influence in the world, instead allow
for a specific analysis of transnational influence in historical context, and an
understanding of cultural collaboration all too rarely acknowledged in national
studies of design to date.
Notes
1. This may be partly attributable to the marginal status of domestic advice literature (LeesMaffei 2003).
2. In her Presidential Address to the American Studies Association in 1998 (published
the following year), Radway (1999) proposed alternative names for American Studies and its
US subject association such as ‘United States Studies’, ‘Inter-American Studies Association’, the
‘Society for Intercultural Studies’, before proposing to stick with the current name and pursue
methodological rather than nominative change.
3. Harris’ approach is consistent with other studies of whiteness and design such as Mark
Wigley’s now classic White Walls (1995), Kathleen Connellan’s examination of the significance of
white fitted kitchens in South Africa (2010) and Sara Ahmed’s ‘phenomenology of whiteness as a
way of exploring how whiteness is “real”, material and lived’ (Ahmed 2007: 150).
4. Similar claims have been made for design, in initiatives such as the International Council
of Societies of Industrial Design (ICSID), founded in 1957 and now with fifty member nations,
for example.
5. Rachel Rich (2003; 2011) has also used advice literature to compare social practices in
France and Britain in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries.
6. Of course the USA has engaged in its own colonialist practices elsewhere.
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Grace Lees-Maffei is Reader in Design History and Director of the
Professional Doctorate in Heritage (DHeritage), University of Hertfordshire.
The Managing Editor of the Journal of Design History, she is also the author of
Design at Home: Domestic Advice Literature in the UK and the US since 1945 (2014),
editor of Writing Design (2012) and Iconic Designs: 50 Stories about 50 Things
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CHAPTER
1 2
Surveying the Borders
‘Authenticity’ in Mexican-American Food Packaging,
Imagery and Architecture
Nicolas P. Maffei
Studies of food as a global phenomenon have usually focused on two processes:
the blanding of local food cultures, and resistance through reassertion of the
local (Bell and Valentine 1997). Exploring the former, this chapter draws on
a number of fields from across the humanities and social sciences, including
Architectural History, Food History, Latin American Studies, Cultural Studies,
and Sociology, to demonstrate that a blended methodology is necessary to
understand transculturation in design and the ways in which it is socially
embedded (Ortiz 1995 [1947]). The analyses reviewed include writing on
tamale advertisements, tortilla chip packaging, the architecture and signage of
global fast food chain Taco Bell, and the interiors of local ethnic restaurants,
spanning the late nineteenth to the late twentieth centuries. All the studies
explore the ideological implications of representation and most evidence a
cultural imperialism where symbols of Mexican identity were appropriated
and transformed for a North American Anglo consumer. While these studies
predominantly employ a narrative of top-down, cultural dominance, this chapter
concludes by considering a number of investigations of ethnic restaurants from
the social sciences where the social construction of ‘authenticity’ has resulted
from collaboration between consumers and entrepreneurs. Thus, ‘authenticity’
can be understood as a co-produced experience where the exotic is mitigated by
the familiar (Fine and Lu 1995; Gaytán 2008). This definition of the ‘authentic’
diverges from a humanities perspective that considers the inner self as ‘real’
and the performed self as ‘fake’, as well as the view that commercial values
compromise the supposedly true self (Banet-Weiser 2012: 10–11).
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Of course there are a variety of Mexican-American cuisines. Perhaps the
most well-known of these is Tex-Mex, a food which by its very existence is
a hybrid, a borderland creation of Texan and Mexican cultures. ‘Tex-Mex’ is
a term often used dismissively to ‘denote any form of inauthentic Mexican
food’ but it ‘more properly describes a regional variant of Mexican culture
from Texas, with Anglo Saxon and Central European influences’ (Pilcher 2012:
440). What is now Texas has been mestizo since the arrival of the Spaniards in
1519. This Tex-Mex mix has been further hybridized by waves of immigrants
from as far away as Germany and the former Czechoslovakia. Hybridity can be
perceived as a threat to an imagined state of authentic cultural purity. The use
of the term can be seen as an ideological tool, where the ‘other’ is romanticized,
essentialized and incorporated by the dominant cultures (Kraidy 2002; Banu
2009; Hebdige 1979: 100).This chapter contributes to Designing World’s mission
to reassess the role of national frameworks in design historical narratives by
viewing ‘authenticity’ as constructed not within a single nation, but in both
physical and imagined borderlands, where imposed and personal national
identities are produced through a process of confrontation and amalgamation.
What is Ethnic Design?
To understand the design that accompanies ethnic food (its packaging,
advertising and architecture), one must first understand what ethnic food is.
From a sociological perspective, Ian Cook, Philip Crang, and Mark Thorpe
(1990) observe that for some market researchers ethnic food originates from
outside one’s own nation. For others, it is simply food that is considered ethnic.
In the USA and UK ‘ethnic food’ is an established food industry category
and can encompass Chinese, Italian, and Mexican or Hispanic dishes. Yet,
such terms obscure a range of rich cultures and flatten out vast differences.
Kimberly J. Decker tackles the near impossibility of marketing to an imagined,
monolithic US Hispanic consumer segment, a group which is made up of
many nationalities and ethnicities, including Cubans, Puerto Ricans, South
Americans and those who identify with African, European and indigenous
cultural traditions (Decker 2004: unpaginated).
Perhaps one way to approach ethnic food or ethnic design as a subject of
analysis is to consider not what is consumed, but what is produced by consumers
when they interact with other food cultures, including accompanying imagery
and artefacts. Consumers of ethnic food go beyond simply tasting and imbibing.
For example, Cook, Crang and Thorpe show ‘how everyday practices of
commodified food provision and consumption involve the production and
consumption not only of foods but of social imaginaries, which position
individual dietary practices within wider discursive framings’ (Cook et al. 1990:
223).
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‘Authenticity’ in Mexican-American Food Packaging, Imagery and Architecture
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The social imaginary of Mexican-American food culture is ripe with
symbols. Perhaps the most resonant are those of the borderlands of the South
Western United States, many of which are strongly linked to the people and
landscape. From sleepy caballeros to sensual indigenas (native women in regional
dress), and from colonial missions to nopal cacti, a variety of stereotypical imagery
has been employed to conjure up Mexicanness in Mexican food imagery and
food outlet architecture. These visual and material expressions carry their own
class and gendered meanings. Jeffery Pilcher, the prolific historian of Mexican
cuisine, argues that certain ethnic images such as Aztec and Mayan goddesses,
pyramids and hieroglyphics can denote ‘authenticity’ for a national cuisine, even
when such a cuisine excludes the actual foods of native communities which
might be perceived by elite Mexicans as tainted by extreme rural poverty
(Pilcher 2012: 416). Additionally, Pilcher observes, pictures of exotic Mexican
women might conjure up a strange and alluring sexuality for Anglos in the USA
(Pilcher 2012: 416). These images are understood differently across different
borders, carrying one set of meaning in Mexico and another in the USA.
Finding the Border
Globalization has deep roots, for example the colonizing activities of the Spanish
who brought European food culture to the Aztecs (Pilcher 2012: 282). The
border and its symbols are a constant trope in the design surrounding Mexican
American food. These linguistic and visual references belie the harsh political
realities associated with the US-Mexican border. The spread of Mexican
American food symbolism, whether in advertising slogans such as Taco Bell’s
‘Make a Run for the Border’ campaign (1988–1990) or the representations of
cacti, deserts and eagles in food packaging, arguably exemplify the postmodern
disregard of national borders and the homogenization of ethnic cultures. Yet,
the scholar of Latin American popular culture, Ana M. López, questions the
assertion that globalization equals free movement and points to the realities of
citizens denied access to certain nations: ‘national borders are real and crossing
them a painful and risky enterprise’ (López 1998: 97). A Professor of Ethnic
Studies, José David Saldívar, writes of the role borders play in the perpetuation
of ‘cultures of U.S. empire’ (Saldívar 1997: xiv). He notes the variety of ways
borders can be understood as a ‘paradigm of crossings, intercultural exchanges,
circulations, resistances, and negotiations, as well as militarized “low-intensity”
conflict’ (Saldívar 1997: ix). Borders and the geography they define can reinforce
poverty, perpetuate misery, and instil fear. López argues that ‘we cannot afford
to refigure hybridity and heterogeneity as simple international phenomena.
The notion that borders are disappearing is reassuring only to the privileged
few’ (López 1998: 99). Of course, certain information and visual culture may
move more freely across borders, such as the images of the mission bell on
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the Taco Bell restaurant exterior or the cacti on a tortilla packet. But what
happens to their meanings as they make their own border crossings? Design
and culture associated with Mexican-American border imagery, including a
seemingly frivolous phrase in a Taco Bell advertisement, must be understood in
the context of such realities.
Packaging Stereotypes
A number of scholars of Mexican food culture have focused on its Anglicization
as part of a wider colonizing process.These authors trace this process to the late
nineteenth century and into the 1930s when the industrialization of MexicanAmerican food, including canning and factory production, combined with
advertising to disseminate both imperialist messages and nationalist expressions.
Sahar Monrreal, an anthropologist focusing on the construction of imaginative
geographies and literary representations of Mexican identity, provides a study
of the ‘symbolic transformation’ and ‘shifting meanings of the tamale’ in
advertising in popular US magazines at the end of the nineteenth century. The
author investigates this process in the context of the Spanish-American War,
and US imperialism, while examining changing notions of race (Monrreal
2008: 449). Monrreal considers these ‘images of not only Mexicans and mestizos
but also ethnic food’ as ‘important “firsts” in the Ladies’ Home Journal’ (Monrreal
2008: 467).
Investigating the US marketing of Hispanic food in the first decades of the
twentieth century, Vanessa Fonseca applies critical theory, cultural anthropology
and semiotics to reveal what she terms the ‘Latinization of the US market’, the
‘appropriation and resemantization of Latin American cultural practices and
artifacts by the mainstream culture’. She analyses this phenomenon as a neocolonial, market-driven and hegemonic process resulting in cultural hybridization
where ‘food artifacts’, including design elements used to promote cuisines, and
practices of non-hegemonic groups, entered the mainstream and were stripped
of their prior cultural meanings (Fonseca 2003: 3).
Discussing early twentieth-century Texas-based food manufactures,
Gebhardt Chili Powder Co. and Walker’s Austex Chile Co., Fonseca shows how
the promotional material for tamales, mass produced canned ‘Mexican’ beans and
chili con carne aimed at Anglos, emphasized ‘authenticity’ and were associated
with an imagined Hispanic and Mexican culture.This was achieved through the
use of visual tropes including Sevillanas (women sporting mantillas and decorative combs from Seville) and phrases such as ‘genuine Mexican’. Such advertising resulted in a hybrid image that was simultaneously Mexican and Spanish.
Fonseca’s analysis of a Gebhardt Mexican cookbook of 1932, which included
photos of spotless food production facilities, shows how industrialized ethnic
food was offered as ‘authentic’ and ‘exotic’, but also ‘sanitized’ (Fonseca 2003: 38),
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perhaps appealing to a desire for something unique and romantic, while avoiding supposed Mexican dirtiness. Within the book images of ‘presumed Mexican
culture’, ‘peasants with oxcarts or animals, cacti, bullfighters, Indians carrying
pottery’, present an uncertain Mexican culture, confusingly mixing colonial,
rural, Spanish and Native American characteristics while offering a hybrid image
of ethnicity for the Anglo consumer (Fonseca 2003: 38).
The earliest tortilla chip packages provide a useful site for understanding
the processes of representation in Mexican American food artefacts. Arguably
the first mass-produced, packaged tortilla chips were manufactured by Azteca
Mills of San Antonio and South Texas (later known as B. Martinez Sons Co.).
Their initial logo employed symbols strongly associated with Mexican history
and national identity, including a pyramid and green and red lettering. This
was later changed to an eagle in flight holding an ear of corn (Fonseca 2003:
43). The coloured lettering and the imagery referenced Mexico’s coat of arms,
which depicts a Mexican Golden eagle on a prickly pear cactus with a snake
in its beak. The combination of the name Azteca Mills and the imagery of the
pyramid and eagle suggest a symbolic reference to the ancient Aztec story of
the origin of Tenochtitlán (present day Mexico city) and the return to Aztlán
(the mythic home of the Aztec people). Thus the corn chip was strongly identified with indigenous Mexican traditions, symbols and national mythology,
whereas in the early 1930s the Frito Company of San Antonio would appropriate the corn chip concept, present it as their invention, and market it primarily
to non-Hispanics (Fonseca 2003: 45). While not a Mexican tradition per se,
in North America the tortilla chip and salsa starter became a mainstay of the
Mexican restaurant experience, which established it as an essential component
of Mexican-American cuisine.
The Mexican Restaurant
While manufacturers repackaged Mexican food as unthreatening and alluring,
roadside restaurateurs in the United States conjured another type of exotic
experience. Arriving in the USA with an influx of Mexican immigrants in the
1950s, Mexican cuisine followed Italian as the next ethnic American roadside
food. Early roadside Mexican restaurants were simple in design and aimed
primarily at recent Mexican immigrants. Later, however, they were designed to
appeal to an Anglo clientele. In the 1960s such restaurants sported stereotypical
Spanish colonial architectural details, including red-tiled roofs, wrought iron
furnishings, arched entryways, and stuccoed walls. Taco Bell became the most
prominent of these roadside venues.
Food historian Warren Belasco pinpoints the global rise of fast food in the
1970s, with Europe and developing countries ‘discovering’ McDonalds and
Kentucky Fried Chicken. By the late 1970s fast food entrepreneurs in the USA
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Figure 12.1 Taco Bell, Evergreen Park, Illinois, Fourth of July Parade, 1977. Photo
courtesy of Bruce Cassi.
were positioned to take advantage of an ‘ethnic boom’. Food trade journals
wrote of an increased appeal for foods ranging from pita bread sandwiches to
tortellini, as well as burritos, fajitas and taco salads. Belasco asks whether this
was a step towards achieving the democratic ideal of pluralism and equality or
‘depressing evidence of corporate conglomeration and cultural homogenization’
(Belasco 1987: 1). Ethnic fast food multinationals were in fact simply cashing in
on a wider cultural phenomenon, a ‘grassroots ethnic revival’, while, according to
Belasco, engaging in a hegemonic process where ‘dominant forces . . . incorporate
insurgent strivings’ (Belasco 1987: 3). Because the members of the grassroots
ethnic revival in the USA were mostly affluent and educated, this provided a
great opportunity for food marketers. Rejecting past strategies that targeted an
undifferentiated consumer mass, the food industry divided the ‘ethnic revivalists’
of the 1970s and 1980s into segments from first-generation consumers who
desired simple, fundamental ingredients for use in traditional recipes to those
who wanted an ‘Old World aura’ through the use of ‘processed convenience
foods’, some spices and a ‘picturesque package’ (Belasco 1987: 8). Laying the
foundations for the ethnic revivalists were fast food restaurants like Taco Bell.
Founded in 1962, Taco Bell, the largest of the Mexican fast food restaurant
chains, offered its own fantasy of Mexico. In their study of roadside restaurants
and the automobile in the USA, John A. Jakle and Keith A. Sculle claimed
that ‘Taco Bell was more responsible for the transformation of Mexican food
into popular roadside fare than any other chain’ (Jakle and Sculle 1999: 257).
Taco Bell took advantage of increased automobility and the convenience
food restaurant boom of the early 1960s. The business was aimed at mobile
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‘Authenticity’ in Mexican-American Food Packaging, Imagery and Architecture
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food consumers including college students, military personnel and travelling
salesmen. The authors note that ‘[t]acos spoke of an American region – the
Southwest – but in ways inherently safe while seeming exotic’ (Jakle and Sculle
1999: 258). Taco Bell’s founder, Glenn Bell, needed a distinctive architectural
type to materialize this ethnic fantasy. Employing the design language of
Spanish Colonial missions and Mexican architecture, he developed a building
with a low profile, red tile roof and brick walls. Within the front façade hung
a bell, ‘a symbol of the company’s name yet a reinforcement to the [Spanish]
mission image’ (Jakle and Sculle 1999: 258). Bell’s fast food restaurant expanded
hugely through franchising and by 1975 Taco Bell had 673 units.
By 1982, when Taco Bell had 1,400 outlets in the USA and only five in
the rest of the world, a redesign initiated by its new owner PepsiCo aimed at
expanding the franchise into parts of the USA as yet unfamiliar with Mexican
food. PepsiCo engaged S&O Consultants of San Francisco to investigate
consumer perceptions of Taco Bell’s image and design. Over five hundred
fast-food consumers were asked how they felt about Mexican food and Taco
Bell. Participants were shown images of Taco Bell restaurants and signage and
asked to consider whether they were ‘clean or dirty, family-oriented or adult,
[or] expensive’ (Langdon 1986: 176). Participants were also invited to judge
the exterior architectural elements of the restaurant: the signage, bell tower,
arched windows, red tiled roof and the logo. In a logo comparison test with
McDonalds and Kentucky Fried Chicken Taco Bell faired poorly. The study
concluded that the company was in danger of being dismissed as too Mexican
for Anglo consumers, particularly where Mexican food was not established. A
similar threat had led to the redesign of Pizza Hut when in the mid-1970s the
New York design consultancy Lippincott & Margulies recommended that Pizza
Hut employ a design strategy to avoid seeming too Italian (Langdon 1986: 178).
Likewise, S&O’s study evidenced consumer anxiety regarding the cleanliness of
Mexican restaurants. Anxiety around supposed Mexican dirtiness is consistent
with the hygienic imagery used in Gebhardt’s cookbook earlier in the twentieth
century and has been a significant trope in Anglo worries regarding immigration
(Hoy 1995: 92).
S&O’s research suggested a preference for the red tiled roof and the
arched window, but not the sign: a sleeping Mexican slouched beneath a giant
sombrero sitting on top of a tilted mission bell. Rather than being recognized as
a demeaning stereotype, it was criticized by respondents as unrecognizable and
confusing. Keen to position the restaurant in the North American mainstream,
Taco Bell kept its name and menu, but deemphasized its borderland imagery.
Thus, in the restaurant retrofitting the focal point of the façade – the brick
bell tower and bell – was replaced by a plastic bell logo. Also removed were the
large protruding wooden beams typical of Spanish colonial architecture that
projected from the exterior walls. The outside walls, which in S&O’s report
were called ‘dirty brown,’ were lightened, thus removing any taint associated
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Nicolas P. Maffei
with supposedly unclean Mexican culture. Arched windows were replaced
with rectangular ones. A tiled roof was used prominently in the redesign but
designed to not appear too Mexican. The red tiles were employed on a basic
mansard roof, or ‘Mainstream Mansard’ as S&O referred to it, echoing existing
fast food architecture. Langdon concludes, ‘Taco Bell, like untold numbers of
second generation ethnic Americans, saw foreignness as a troublesome label
and grasped at established symbols of American retailing – plastic and mansards’
(Langdon 1986: 179). Taco Bell became ‘ethnic in name only’. By 1996, it
was the leading Mexican fast restaurant food in the USA, boasting 6,867 units
worldwide and sales of $4,416,000,000 (Jakle and Sculle 1999: 260).
In an effort to further popularize the brand, in 1997 Taco Bell launched
an attention-grabbing advertising campaign featuring a talking Chihuahua,
which whined, ‘yo quiero Taco Bell!’ (‘I want Taco Bell!’). Seen as reinforcing
a demeaning ethnic stereotype – the other as desirous animal – the campaign
attracted a vociferous and negative response from the Hispanic community.The
author of ‘Taco Hell’, an article in the Hispanic Times magazine, wrote ‘move
over Frito Bandito, there is a new top dog in the world of offensive advertising’,
referring to the image of Hispanics as criminals employed in a Frito Company’s
tortilla chip ad campaign. The spokesperson for Taco Bell expressed surprise at
the response and defended the ads as a ‘cool and hip’ portrayal of ‘a sort of quasiMexican heritage’. Observing that Hispanic leaders had called for a boycott,
the author pointedly noted that such action would make no impact ‘since
Hispanics don’t eat there anyway’ (Anon. 1998). According to the magazine
the campaign was pulled in late 2000 due to falling sales, at least according
to Taco Bell (Anon. 2000). Pilcher notes that corporate advertising tends to
promote ethnic food to mainstream audiences through the employment of
‘exotic and demeaning images’ including the Frito Bandito and the Taco Bell
dog, ‘conveying images of Mexicans as outlaws and animals’, adding that even
when corporate imagery is more respectful it can still detrimentally ‘crowd out
ethnic entrepreneurs’ (Pilcher 2012: 412).
From a Feminist and Cultural Studies perspective, Suzanne Bost considers
the colonial meanings that permeate Taco Bell’s visual and material metaphors,
focusing on the meanings of its Alamo-style architecture, the sexual symbolism
of the taco, and the company’s broadcasts of the desirous Chihuahua. Bost argues
that while many other Spanish missions exist across the Southwestern United
States, the Alamo is the most recognizable as a national symbol.Thus, the Alamo
is ‘evoked in the minds of many Americans viewing Taco Bell advertisements’
(Bost 2003: n1, 516). Following a narrative of cultural dominance, Bost writes,
‘This setting – like other Taco Bell ad campaigns highlighting border crossing,
patriotism, and revolution – associates U.S. consumption of Mexican food with
the historical framework of colonialism, but coding (inter)national relations in
terms of fast food, flirtation and adorable Chihuahuas trivializes the political
reality’ (Bost 2003: 493).
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‘Authenticity’ in Mexican-American Food Packaging, Imagery and Architecture
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Figure 12.2 Postcard, Alamo, San Antonio, Texas, front, 1901–1907. Special
Collections, University of Houston Libraries, University of Houston Digital Library.
Through an investigation of numerous ‘Mexican’ tourist sites, including
Epcot Center’s ‘Mexico’ in Florida and the Spanish Colonial missions of San
Antonio, Texas, Bost considers the design and promotion of such environments as part of a wider set of images and experiences – related primarily to
the consumption of spicy food and pleasure – which are intended to be consumed as depoliticized narratives, as an ‘American Mexicanism’, a mythology
of what Mexico represents to Anglo Americans in the USA. Furthermore, she
argues that US tourist consumption of chilies and margaritas is ‘supported by
a history of war, Mexican poverty, and borderland violence’ (Bost 2003: 494).
Bost suggests that everyone engages in a kind of ‘consumer colonialism’ when
taking in exotic cultural products, including food and places, without a substantial personal change.The colonizer’s empire expands while the threatening
strangeness of the other is neutralized (Bost 2003: 495). Bost observes that
the hype around the Alamo as a tourist site and its fictionalized presentation
as a place of Texan victory presents a compensation for the ‘initial failure to
“consume” Mexico at the battle there’ (Bost 2003: 495), a battle lost by the
mostly Anglo-Texan battalion.Thus it presents a touristic ‘continuation of U.S.
war with Mexico’ (Bost 2003: 495). Following bel hooks’s ‘Eating the Other’
(1992), Bost recognizes this battle continuing in the context of MexicanAmerican fast food: when ‘Taco Bell pose[s] their products as other, it must
only be a pose, a touristic construct that affirms gringo nationality’ (Bost 2003:
510). She further argues that by ‘transplanting the border symbolically inside
the United States – Taco Bells in every town, Coca Cola saturating Mexican
markets – corporate culture disavows Mexican challenges to U.S. profits and
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national boundaries. The United States can then eat the other and keep its
border, too’ (Bost 2003: 512).
Perhaps this perception is shared more widely by Hispanic consumers.Taco
Bell’s attempt to attract Hispanic customers has failed, contributing just 0.5
percent to its sales gains in 2005. Carl Kravetz, Chairman of Hispanic marketing
firm Cruz/Kravetz: Ideas, Los Angeles, does not consider negative stereotyping
or cultural colonization but ‘authenticity’ as the key issue in attracting Hispanic
consumers. ‘The main problem for Hispanics is the perception of Taco Bell’s
food as too Anglo-American. Their issue is authenticity, and they have a lot of
years of not being perceived as authentic to break through’ (MacArthur and
Wentz 2006).
According to an ethnographic study by Marie Sarita Gaytán, tempering
exotic with familiar symbols in order to create broad appeal is seen as key
to the ‘corporate’ approach of Mexican restaurant design, where supposedly
authentic and inauthentic design elements are employed to create an imaginary
space that is ‘ethnic, but not too ethnic, authentic, but not too authentic’ (Gaytán
2008: 332). The corporate literature of the ethnic food sector cautions against
being too real or risk losing customers: familiarity is sought, not ‘authenticity’
(Gaytán 2008: 333). One food industry insider has stated that successful
ethnic food products ‘will respect that spectrum’s boundaries, sticking close
to traditional cuisines that reflect American tastes. Once a product goes past
the line of comfort and accessibility . . . it will not be seen as a real choice. It
will be seen as something that is not convenient and not comfortable. And
then it becomes foreign again’ (Decker 2003: 113–114). Gaytán notes that this
corporate approach to the production and promotion of ethnic cuisine rejects
diversity of identity and cultural vibrancy, replacing it instead with celebrations
of similarity rather than difference (2008: 334).
Authenticity: Balancing the Familiar and the Unknown
One of the earliest prominent debates regarding authenticity in Mexican food
began in 1972. In her book, The Cuisines of Mexico, Diana Kennedy differentiated
between ‘interior Mexican food’ and the ‘mixed plates’ of US Mexican restaurants
(Walsh 2004: 121). Kennedy referred to Americanized Mexican food as ‘TexMex’ and made a plea for better understanding of ‘authentic’ Mexican cuisine.
Kennedy is considered extremely influential in initiating and disseminating
the distinction between ‘authentic’ and ‘inauthentic’ hybrid Mexican dishes.
Appreciated in Mexico for her global promotional efforts of the country’s
cuisine, she was awarded the Aztec Eagle, the government’s greatest honour
given to foreigners (Gaytán 2008: 316). This evidences the role of culinary
‘authenticity’ in national identity and suggests that Tex-Mex, the hybrid and
inauthentic cuisine disregarded by Kennedy, had no place in the Mexican
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‘Authenticity’ in Mexican-American Food Packaging, Imagery and Architecture
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government’s representations of its national identity and culture. Pilcher, on
the other hand, argues that there is no such thing as authentic Mexican food.
It is diverse in its origins and is under constant change (Pilcher 2012: 400).
He recognizes that many other immigrants, including Africans, Asians, Central
Europeans and Italians, contributed to Mexico’s cultural hybridity rather than
just the romanticized myth of Spanish–Aztec / Mayan mix (Pilcher 2012: 484).
The same argument could be applied to the designs associated with cuisines of
Mexico.
In the social sciences, authenticity has been understood as a collaboration
between consumers and marketers where the exotic is tempered by the familiar
(Fine and Lu 1995; Gaytán 2008). In ethnic restaurant experiences ‘authenticity’
includes the use of traditional ethnic ingredients in combination with familiar
North American forms. In the design of Mexican-American fast food
architecture such mixing includes the combination of traditional symbolism
with modern architectural elements, for example a mission bell incorporated
into the exterior of a prefabricated building. ‘Authenticity’ for customers is not
presented as a pure untainted experience or the consumption of non-hybrid
cuisines, as in Diane Kennedy’s notion of virgin interior Mexican food, but
rather it is seen as highly individual and the result of a self-imposed illusion.
In their sociological study of Chinese restaurants, Fine and Lu note
that ‘ethnic entrepreneurs’ in the US developed commercial enterprises for
Americans who valued tolerance and longed for cross-cultural experiences
through the production of ethnic culture that was ‘unique, yet comfortable’:
‘“authentic” and within the bounds of cultural expectations (“Americanized”)’
(Fine and Lu 1995: 535). Recognizing that this process includes the ‘illusion of
authenticity’ and the ‘illusion of continuity’, the authors present authenticity
as a social construction (Fine and Lu 1995: 541). Whereas many of the other
studies referred to in this chapter dwell on homogenization, Fine and Lu focus
on cultural harmonization occurring through cross-cultural interaction. This
process is not presented as a hegemonic, top-down domination, but as cultural
production between different social groups where a desire for familiarity and
the reduction of discomfort are balanced with a longing for the unknown.
The same formula can be applied to Mexican-American food culture and
its accompanying designs. A sense of authenticity may be generated within
the bounds of a consumer’s cultural expectations of Mexican-American food
imagery and design, resulting in the production of illusions of both authenticity
and continuity in order to create a kind of theatre of expected Mexicanness,
whether in restaurant design, packaging or advertising. In this way one visitor’s
encounter with the stuccoed walls of a Taco Bell can be as authentic as another’s
appreciation of Diane Kennedy’s interior cuisine.
Fine and Lu conclude that the ‘social construction of authentic ethnic food
is bounded by social, cultural, and economic constraints’ (Fine and Lu 1995:
547). It is these constraints and the negotiation of ‘authenticity’ that allows
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Figure 12.3 Las Cazuela Mexican Restaurant, Austin, Texas, 2014. Photo courtesy of
Ron Rodgers.
the cuisine to survive in the USA. If it were too authentic (for example, pig’s
trotters), it would be rejected. If it were too American, it would no longer
be attractive, as it would not provide the ‘self-validating “ethnic experience”,
a mark of . . . tolerance and sophistication . . . as dining out is identity work’
(Fine and Lu 1995: 547). The authors see the negotiation of authenticity on an
individual level as contributing to the shaping of ethnic culture on a societal
scale. ‘Through our purchases and presence, we validate the legitimacy of the
group and of the American polity, all the while altering the ethnic culture to
make it congruent with mainstream values and tastes’ (Fine and Lu 1995: 549).
Many successful designs associated with Mexican food also operate within these
constraints, neither shocking nor challenging widely held beliefs, but appealing
to a circumscribed Anglo adventurousness.
Employing participant observation, Gaytán’s ethnographic study of Mexican
restaurants recognizes an asymmetry of power in the social construction of
authenticity, noting that ‘making claims to authenticity is capable of signalling
an array of implicit and explicit power’ (Gaytán 1995: 318). The desire for
authenticity can be seen as a type of colonizing attitude that essentializes
ethnic groups (Abarca 2004: 18). Thus, ‘assertions of authentic “ethnic” food
espouse romantic ideas about the people who are typically associated with
certain cuisines. Such processes stifle creative expression while at the same
time reproduce the notion that some groups of people are more “exotic”
and “ethnic” than others’ (Gaytán 2008: 318). This viewpoint echoes those of
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‘Authenticity’ in Mexican-American Food Packaging, Imagery and Architecture
223
Fonseca and Monrreal, discussed above, where imagined but unthreatening
images and designs of Mexicanness are constructed by food entrepreneurs for
a mostly Anglo audience.
Gaytán’s study reveals how design has been employed in restaurants
to denote or deny ‘authenticity’. When a restaurant presented a seemingly
inauthentic interior (e.g. Formica tables and plastic chairs) respondents felt they
could still judge its genuineness based on the cuisine (Gaytán 2008: 322). In
another restaurant an ideological authenticity was presented through prominent
window decals exclaiming, ‘hecho en Mexico’ (made in Mexico) and ‘viva la
raza!’ (a famous Chicano Rights cry from the 1960s) (Gaytán 2008: 322). The
owner of this particular venue explicitly refused to include stereotypical imagery
of sombreros, sarapes, and piñatas, explaining that this presented a narrow notion
of Mexican identity and culture. Advertisements for the venue exclaimed,
‘Evite el estereotipo!’ (avoid the stereotype). Thus, the owner offered an ethnic
‘authenticity’ that was culturally and politically engaged (Gaytán 2008: 323).
Gaytán observes that in the décor, advertising and menu, one of the
restaurants she studied made no claim to Mexican authenticity, but emphasized
instead ‘freshness’ and ‘alternative’ food preparation (Gaytán 2008: 330). Thus
stereotypical symbols of Mexicanness were avoided in order to focus on the
excellence and individuality of the food and its ingredients. ‘Authenticity’ was
not derived from images of ethnicity and nation but from the food itself.While
this could be seen as an erasure of Mexican national identity and the victory
of the colonial impulse over an ethnic other, it can also be viewed as an escape
from the narrative of cultural dominance, leaving only the look of the food as
an authentic element of communication.
In a 2004 discussion of food design – the use of ingredients to produce
appealing colours, textures and forms in packaged cuisines – Kimberly J.
Decker focused on the growing Hispanic market. She noted that recent food
design research was focused on the vibrant and fun aspects of Hispanic culture.
The author explained how food designers employed a pseudo-ethnographic
technique of ‘cultural mining’ or ‘trend treks’ where they immersed themselves
in the sights, sounds and smells of an ethnic neighborhood in order to translate
those sensory experiences into food design. Reflecting an industry focus on
the growing Hispanic market, Sylvia Meléndez-Klinger, a Chicago-based
consultant to the food industry, and an experienced trend trekker, explained
how this approach could be used to appeal to Hispanics:
Think of the colors of a piñata, the simplicity of it – it’s paper and cardboard.
It doesn’t need to be very fancy. But it’s vibrant, it’s in a shape the community
recognizes, and it’s got the candy inside that they know. This is something that
brings back memories. So you’ve got the colors and you’ve got the fun.You’ve got
to transfer that fun to the food. It’s got to be colorful. It’s got to be something that
makes them [Hispanic consumers] think of home and the flavors of home. (Decker
2004, unpaginated)
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Arguably this approach continues the Latinization that Fonseca describes, but
for a Hispanic rather than an Anglo audience. It reduces complex cultural
meanings, which may carry symbols of national identity or of resistance, and
reduces them to a range of party colours. While the terms ‘cultural mining’
and ‘trend trekking’ are used, such cultural excavation and ethnic travel can
be seen as surface engagement and pseudo-ethnography. It is not aimed at
the deep understanding of a culture, but rather a partial attempt to sense the
tonal palette of a place in order to inspire the design of a non-threatening and
marketable food. The emphasis here is on fun colours and nostalgic imagery.
It is telling that there are no images of pyramids and snakes (Azteca Mills)
or sombreros and mission bells (Taco Bell). It suggests that Hispanic food
marketers and food designers are turning their backs on stereotypical imagery
and employing a more abstract and open-ended symbolism (bright colours)
to create a sense of playfulness and nostalgia. While this is not an example
of hybrid inauthenticity, it could be termed non-Mexican Mexican food, or
inauthentically authentic, as it strips away any explicit symbolic association
with Mexican cuisine, but seeks unoffending images and design that expresses
nostalgia, freshness and sociability.
Conclusion
This chapter has surveyed academic writing, from food history and Latin
American and cultural studies to sociology and ethnography, in order to aid our
understanding of the meanings produced and consumed in packaging, advertising and architecture associated with Mexican-American food. Ranging from
homogenization, harmonization to inauthentic ‘authenticity’, a tendency to
view food and design as a cultural battleground where an asymmetrical power
relationship advantages Anglo producers is apparent across most of these studies.
The first approach focuses on power relations; the second emphasizes the production of culture and personal meaning; while the latter has de-emphasized
overt cultural symbols and concentrated on sales. Each approach provides a
lens for understanding representations in Mexican-American food packaging,
imagery and architecture and ways to investigate the ultimate product – the
social construction of authenticity – while exploring an imagined borderland
of national and ethnic symbols.
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Nicolas P. Maffei is Senior Lecturer in the Faculty of Design, Norwich
University of the Arts, UK. His research has focused on modernism in American
design. He has published articles in Design Issues, Journal of Design History and
Design and Culture and contributed chapters to Iconic Design (Bloomsbury 2014),
Art Deco (V&A Publications 2003) and Norman Bel Geddes Designs America
(Abrams 2012). Dr Maffei’s most recent research on the impact of digital technology on traditional forms of graphic design will appear in Reading Graphic
Design in Cultural Context: An Introduction (Bloomsbury 2016).
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CHAPTER
13
An Empire of One’s Own
Individualism and Domestic Built Form
in Twenty-First-Century Jamaica
Davinia Gregory
The twenty-first century seems strangely attached to the past. [. . .] A long-standing
legacy of violence, compounded by new disasters, has engendered a set of rites –
both individual and collective – that have taken many forms: the reconstruction of
past histories, the retrieval of lost communities, [. . .] and a quest for origins. (Hirsch
and Miller 2011: xi)
On a recent research trip to Jamaica I travelled as a passenger through many
of its rural areas. For many tourists these long drives would be magnificent
experiences due to the dramatic, sweeping green landscapes intermittently
interrupted by mountains and the sea. For a design historian however, they
also produced exceptional fodder for musing in the form of a new feature
within rural housing. Planning permission is not required for domestic building
projects in most rural areas provided the land tax is paid. This freedom has
enabled the production of dream-houses that appear truly original and these
creations, interspersed with more modest dwellings, are dotted across the
landscapes of rural Jamaica.
They leave an impression of vibrant colour. As in many tropical places where
concrete has been adopted as the dominant building material, painted houses
turn the hills into a rainbow of brightly coloured speckles on a wash of green. In
their colours as well as in the sprawling size of many, these houses are comparable
to those in some in parts of India, for example. However, what stood out for me
as being unique to Jamaica was the ubiquitous presence of columns reminiscent
of the ancient Greek orders, most commonly the elaborate Corinthian columns
as described by architectural historians (Shaw 1852: 99; Chitham 1985: 24–83;
Notes for this section begin on page 239.
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Individualism and Domestic Built Form in Twenty-First-Century Jamaica
227
Figure 13.1 Hillside house with columns. In this example, the top floor has recently
been added to an existing single-storey house, and the fashion for elaborate columns
has been included in the later part of the design. Photograph by Davinia Gregory,
July 2013.
Rykwert 1996: 317–349). At first I suspected that they were confined to a particular locale, but as I traversed the length and breadth of Jamaica I spotted them
everywhere, attached to brightly coloured country houses.
I remembered that such columns had not been present in the countryside
on my last visit, in the late 1990s. My uncle confirmed this as he drove: ‘No, it’s
a 21st century style my dear.You know how Jamaica likes to make and follow
fashion’ (Walker, interview 2013). This uncle, a furniture designer and house
builder in Jamaica for over forty years, could not tell me any more than that.
His only and repeated explanation was that the columns were ‘style’ and this
vagueness was repeated by everybody else I questioned, whether or not they
approved of the design feature. Nevertheless, the popularity of classical-style
columns in Jamaica cannot have appeared from nowhere; what in the collective
consciousness of the Jamaican people is drawn to these symbols of grandeur,
and why now? This chapter aims to decode these columns; to delve into the
meaning that they have as objects of pastiche from colonial buildings in the
Caribbean and into the multiple meanings that they assume when read by
people of various backgrounds. The title intentionally nods to Virginia Woolf ’s
A Room of One’s Own.
Almost every writer who has practiced his art successfully has been taught it
[. . .] by about eleven years of education – at private schools, public schools and
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Davinia Gregory
universities. He sits upon a tower raised above the rest of us, a tower built first on
his parents’ station, then on his parents’ gold. It is a tower of the utmost importance; it decides his angle of vision; it affects his power of communication. (Woolf
1957 [1917]: 169)
Feminism and postcolonial studies shared methodologies to great effect in
the latter half of the last century. This chapter examines a phenomenon which,
in many ways, makes a claim of ownership similar to Woolf ’s. ‘An Empire of
One’s Own’ is less a manifesto in itself than an analysis of a tacit call to action
that has already happened and perhaps been missed in scholarship.The reclaiming of space and power that Woolf encouraged in the women of Newnham
and Girton colleges in 1917, has been paralleled almost a century later in the
postcolonial world through material gestures like the domestic adoption of
these columns. This chapter asks how far this assertion of individual power can
be considered a conscious one among Jamaica’s rural residents; how far it can
be considered universally relevant amongst them, and how deeply runs the
collective aspiration to greater cultural and economic balance more than fifty
years after the end of British rule. Through these questions the study of design
becomes a vehicle for revisiting Stuart Hall’s identification of the Caribbean as
uniquely useful for understanding diasporic identity formation because so vast
a proportion of its population has migrated from elsewhere (Hall 1995: 6).
By exploring the unique aspects of the Jamaican case this chapter also
highlights the continued importance of national frameworks in writing design
history. In an age of globalization in which the migration of people, objects,
design features and ideas has become a worldwide phenomenon, and nostalgia
for simpler pasts is common, a study set in twenty-first-century Jamaica can
shed light on the nature and growth of increasingly creolized design as the
inevitable product of increasingly culturally hybrid nations.1
Neoclassicism and Jamaican Identity
The ancient orders of classical columns arrived in the British Caribbean as
symbols of imperial power within Georgian and Regency neo-classical architecture. Here, as in Britain, they represented a power not shared by everyone. By
harking back to ancient Greece, the modern empires of Europe used columns
to declare a successful political structure, which supposedly represented and
worked to the benefit of all citizens. Reflecting grand governmental and cultural edifices of Europe at this time, official buildings and some large country
houses in Jamaica were designed to include columns as statements of imperial
power, their grandeur creating and reinforcing the concept of British leadership
and superiority in a colonial outpost. Vic Reid writes of ‘an age of opulence
and oppression, much and little, few in-betweens’, acknowledging that ‘while
sugar built, for field hands, stacks of ugly shacks to disfigure the countryside,
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Individualism and Domestic Built Form in Twenty-First-Century Jamaica
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the same commodity was causing castles for private and official use’ (Reid
1970: 28). The tradition of sprawling architecture began during the age of sugar
slavery and Reid uses houses to illustrate the resultant chasm that existed (and
still exists in many respects) between rich and poor in Jamaica. The same can
be said of many countries whether they have been colonies or not; however in
non-European colonies like Jamaica class was also racialized (Gregory 2013).
This visible and irreversible sign of difference made social mobility next to
impossible for individuals until change could be effected on a national scale.
This was the difference between the colony and the metropolis, and the imperial order responsible was visually represented by neoclassical columns.
So, in Jamaica columns came to represent British imperial supremacy. Part
of that meaning has faded since independence in 1962 and the concomitant
disintegration of imperial leadership, leaving the columns with an abstract semiotic residue of former power; a banal stateliness that still represents the cultural
capital and refinement that Europeanness has come to evoke in the Caribbean.
While it is widely accepted in rural Jamaica that ‘Foreign’ is an imagined place
standing for wealth in general, I have found it interesting that Jamaicans can
identify me as Black British as opposed to African American before I speak.
When I ask what it is that marks Britons out (which is in reality likely to be a
range of subtly different ways of dressing and gesticulating), people invariably
find it difficult to articulate. In interview, relatively well-travelled young professional Marie Hayden of Brown’s Town, St Ann attributed it to an elusive attribute, ‘refinement’, claiming ‘British people just look cultured’ (Hayden 2013).
Such is the strength of the stereotype that Britishness carries in the region.
Similarly, among the white Jamaican interviewees from the Tale of Two Houses
Project (2013) was formidable octogenarian, Montego Bay resident, and daughter of its former governor, Diana De Lisser.2 As she led me around her home,
she pointed out many displayed items. In a room formerly used as an amateur
art studio she had displayed an array of paintings given to her in the 1960s
by artist friends, noting Jamaica’s former links to Europeans involved in what
she deemed high culture, who holidayed in Montego Bay during its heyday.
In pride of place on a coffee table was a thick guide to the Louvre, its cover
bleached by the sun. Its spine was smooth and upon moving it slightly the surrounding dust confirmed its ornamental purpose. De Lisser extolled the virtues
of the Louvre and its ‘truly European works’. This reading of Europeanness,
fostered by cultural imperialism, has always been latent in Jamaica’s identity as
has Europeanness itself. This was evident in mid-twentieth-century writings
about its architecture, such as those of Arthur J. May, A.R.I.B.A (1933), who
observed that ‘most of the West Indian towns have their characteristic English
squares with their large town houses, which might have been brought out
intact from some English country town, so closely do they resemble Georgian
town houses’. He acknowledged the workmanship of the stone entrances and
pointed out: ‘Somehow it does not seem out of place in this tropical island,
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Davinia Gregory
though many of its neighbours are of wood. It expresses a quiet dignity which
is truly British’ (May 1933: 125). This quiet dignity – now the aforementioned
‘banal stateliness’ – has become one of Jamaica’s ‘multiple roots’ (Weil 1949: 43),
the acknowledgement and expression of which are symptomatic of contemporary Jamaica’s cultural sensibility.
The aesthetic Afrocentrism of 1970s Jamaica was a prominent element of
the national identity forged after independence to represent a pronounced break
from the Europeanness of British rule (Gregory 2013). However, to borrow a
useful play on words from James Clifford’s seminal work on diaspora (Clifford
1997), by the twenty-first century it has been nuanced in an acknowledgement
of the country’s multiple roots, as well as of many simultaneous and sometimes
painful routes. These are the routes that have been and are still being taken
to transform the country from a colonial outpost mechanized by a divisive,
imperially imposed class system based on gradations in skin tone (Smith 1961)
into a place whose people are able to visualize the future realization of its
equalizing national motto: ‘Out of Many, One People’. Temporal distance from
British rule has enabled an acceptance of its symbols as part of the country’s
hybrid identity. In domestic architecture, this acceptance is not passive. The
negotiation of conflicting identities has resulted in a visual language that
balances all by changing each; for example, by taking the ‘quiet dignity’ of a
symbol of perceived Britishness and painting it green and peach to suit its
tropical surroundings. To project ownership of that dignity, homeowners make
its stateliness part of individual selfhood. Hirsch and Miller acknowledge that
an attempt to return to the origin is often, on some level, an attempt to map a
loss, redress an injustice, or assert a right to personal acknowledgement (Hirsch
and Miller 2011: 7; 18). The customization of classical columns in Jamaica can
be read accordingly: in the process of self-fashioning they are not simply a
statement of economic arrival. Customization bridges the gap between two
identities considered opposites in long-established systems of thought, yet
inhabiting the same cultural space in the British Caribbean and its peoples.
The columns are not an attempt to assume Britishness from Britain.
Rather, they are an attempt to reify the abstract stateliness inherent within
Jamaican culture, left behind by British rule. Therefore they can be read as
symptoms of cultural return rather than mere adoption. They, and the process
of customizing them, are a departure from the statement made by Edward Said
(1993: xiii), that returns like these, which identify and ‘include a refining and
elevating element, each society’s reserve of the best of what has been known or
thought’, are necessarily essentialist and very often xenophobic. Said sees them
as being accompanied by ‘rigorous codes of intellectual and moral behaviour
that are opposed to the permissiveness associated with such relatively liberal
philosophies as multiculturalism and hybridity’. In the Jamaican context there
is no native claim to land and no indigenous culture to hark back to, the native
Arawaks having been wiped out during the period of Spanish rule.The culture
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Individualism and Domestic Built Form in Twenty-First-Century Jamaica
231
that is being returned to is piecemeal, consisting of bits of this and fragments
of that; a creolized jigsaw which, semantically, does not speak of exclusivity
and xenophobia but of the very hybridity and multiculturalism that an overt
reclamation of a symbol of tradition or heritage in another country’s twentyfirst-century environment may oppose.
Personal Motivations: Aspiration, Social Mobility
and the Columned House
So far this study has offered an analysis of subconscious, collective motivation for
cultural return: columns as roots, looking backwards. It is necessary, in addition,
to examine conscious personal motivations for building with columns, namely
aspiration toward social mobility: columns as dreams of moving forward. In
Clarendon, I was accompanied by a taxi-driving cousin, Mitchie Davis, who
was uncannily reminiscent of the driver described in Daniel Miller’s essay
‘The Christian and the Taxi Driver: poverty and aspiration in rural Jamaica’
(2009).3 His position within the Jamaican system of aspiration and acquisition
is relevant here. Mitchie was proud of having bought himself a taxi, but he
made it clear that his aspiration was to have a working fleet, with the goal of
eventually acquiring a house like those with columns. Each time we passed a
house with Corinthian columns Mitchie would point it out as ‘another nice
house’ and stop driving, encouraging me to photograph it. When asked what
he meant by ‘nice’, he would describe its size and grandeur; however, all houses
highlighted as impressive had ornate columns, while those acknowledged as
OK but modest, did not. It was evident that in Mitchie’s eyes columns signified
a status to which he aspired, the ultimate statement of arrival.
Because of the way in which individualism is constructed in Jamaica, the
idea of living in a planned community with similar plots in the style of many
new-build housing developments leaves many Jamaicans indifferent. Such
developments often offer security, and a concierge to deal with maintenance,
but they cannot satisfy the need for individualism, agency obtained through
the ownership of land and customization of that land through the design of
a house. Daniel Miller (Horst and Miller 2006) has identified these needs,
pointing out that Jamaican individualism is unique in that it does not come
from isolationism but rather originated as a coping mechanism during slavery
as a means of maintaining personal identity, and therefore salvaging partial
freedom. He recognizes that its expression is concomitant with the creation
of a sense of self which is ‘seen not so much as an “inner” deep persona, but
rather emerges through others’ response’ (Miller 2006: 79). Individualism
was firstly a form of resistance to dehumanization, then, following slavery’s
abolition, a process of healing effected through customization in many forms
of self-expression including dress and the naming of children. This was only
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Davinia Gregory
heightened by a postmodern focus on hybridity as opposed to assimilation.
Expressions of personal taste have long replaced expressions of ‘good’ taste as
desirable, not only in Jamaica but globally. However on the island, individualism
is also one of the routes to reclaiming roots that were lost to the majority of its
citizens during the history of Empire.
The concept of affiliative self-fashioning, developed within the field of
diaspora studies, comes from a reluctance to glorify the idea of roots and a
desire to avoid the racial essentialism invited by an uncontested acceptance
of root-seeking as a process (Gilroy 1993; Nelson 2011). The performative
individualism mentioned by Miller can be seen as part of this and the cycle of
aspiration and acquisition exemplified by Mitchie can also be accounted for as
part of this system of ‘see and be seen’ selfhood formation. In this practice of
representing the self, Corinthian columns are most sought after largely because
they sell for the highest price. Some roadside vendors have told potential customers that they have been priced thus because they are more functional
and will last longer, which is questionable. Homeowner Kemoy Downer is
Figure 13.2 Columns being advertised on the roadside. Photograph by Marie
Hayden, November 2014.
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Individualism and Domestic Built Form in Twenty-First-Century Jamaica
233
a teacher in her early thirties with a young family. She and husband Hendin
were not deceived by stories of increased efficiency, but she nevertheless purchased the style and had the columns which now adorn the veranda of their
dream home moulded on site. Descendants of working-class rural Jamaican
families, the Downers’ custom design for their house does not recall the smallroomed, wooden houses of that class but, rather, harks back to a different
Jamaican vernacular. Its layout is typical of houses historically inhabited by the
upper-middle classes. Indeed, the sprawling mansions of twenty-first-century
rural Jamaica almost uniformly seem to reflect an aspiration toward that type
of house, between the Plantation Great-House and the regular middle-class
house in grandeur. These houses were described by May as having been characterized by a large central living room of thirty or more feet in depth, with
bedrooms opening directly from it and a surrounding veranda. May identified
the design as a remnant from Jamaica’s 161-year Spanish occupation (May
1933: 125). Of the contemporary houses with columns that I have visited, the
vast majority, including the Downers’, are built according to this specification
or similar. The dream house, therefore, can be read as part of a system of affiliative and aspirational self-fashioning that has taken a physical form specific to
Jamaica’s architectural history.
Elaborate columns are an addition so important that many people start
their building projects with them. A common sight in the Jamaican countryside
Figure 13.3 Metal column molds on a building site. Photograph by Marie Hayden,
November 2014.
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234
Davinia Gregory
Figure 13.4 Abandoned columns near Maypen, Clarendon. Photograph by Davinia
Gregory, July 2013.
is that of a simple wooden or zinc house filled with people, on a plot of land
also containing a structure consisting of a concrete foundation and columns
alone. Poignantly many of these are now overgrown with foliage like ruins in
reverse, with structures having never been built around them. The unaccompanied columns represent the unrealized dreams of the people in the wooden
houses. Since the beginning of the global financial crisis, paid farming work
has all but disappeared in many parts of rural Jamaica. Many of those who
would rotate seasonal farming between Jamaica and the USA have found entry
to the latter country far more difficult to gain in recent times (McFarlane,
interview 2013). The columns not only represent a quest for roots; they also
encapsulate dreams, hopes and goals, and then become statements of wealth and
achievement.
The Rejection of Columns and the Diasporic Returnee
Not every contemporary rural house features elaborate columns. This chapter
has so far examined columns as vehicles for cultural return, but it is also
necessary to consider the aesthetic choices of the physical returnee from the
Jamaican diaspora abroad, who builds her or his dream house most frequently in
retirement. Many Jamaicans emigrated in response to the British government’s
post-war call to colonial subjects to help rebuild that country’s infrastructure
following the blitz. Their dream houses represent a lifetime of working and
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Individualism and Domestic Built Form in Twenty-First-Century Jamaica
235
yearning in the hope of an improved standard of living upon their return to
Jamaica, and the long-deferred justification of their decision to leave (Phillips
and Phillips 1998). For many slightly younger returnees, the eldest children of
those who chose to move, this return does not justify a choice but is an attempt
to rectify a move that was thrust upon them.
For returnees, the myth of ‘foreign’ has been debunked. They have lived
and worked in a very different system and been changed by it; Europe does
not represent a distant refinement to them. Their reasons for building are not
entirely different from those of the rural Jamaican; the house is still a longawaited reparation for disenfranchisement. However the deracination is from
place and family more immediately than from linear heritage and historical
roots. Because it has occurred within the returnee’s own lifetime the loss is
more immediate and therefore the process of rectification is more conscious.To
them the house represents reparation for sacrifices of culture, home, belonging
and comfort. What is longed for in this case is Jamaica itself; intricacies of
cultural history are often less important than the overarching idea of Jamaica
as ‘home’. To the returnee from Europe, columns are symbols which are out
of place here, signifiers of what they have left behind rather than of what they
miss about the island. In addition, where the returnee is retired there is less
need for a statement of power or social mobility. Their work has been done
overseas, inequality and injustice have been experienced there, not here. It is
expected that they will be reconciled by relocation ‘back home’. Location and
house size (the latter particularly for returnees from UK cities where space is at
a premium) are expected to make the years of economic and social and struggle
abroad worthwhile.
Two such houses are being built next to one another atop Spur Tree Hill
on the border of two parishes: Manchester and St Elizabeth. They are owned
by brothers-in-law Launsby Hayden and Randolph Walker, the latter of whom
is the uncle mentioned at the beginning of this chapter. Uncle Randolph is not
a typical returnee; he and his wife Rose (both Jamaicans) began married life in
1960s Jamaica and then moved back and forth between the island and the USA
for much of their lives, holding citizenship of both countries. They live both
in the Jamaican hilltop house and in their family home in Florida. Launsby
Hayden is the archetypal returnee, having been ‘sent for’ by his postwar migrant
parents as a child and having lived in the UK since. Over the past fifteen years
he has spent more and more time in Jamaica and as retirement approaches
he has been building his house remotely from Derby, England, with Uncle
Randolph as his project manager. Neither house uses columns in its design.
Each is designed to be outward-looking; the central focal point is not a living
area inside the house, as with the Downers’ home. Instead rooms are situated
so as to usher inhabitants toward a rear balcony in one case, and large rear
picture windows in the other. Both offer dramatic views over the precipice of
Spur Tree Hill, and this focus is telling. The view is more important than the
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Davinia Gregory
Figure 13.5 Inside the building site: large rear windows overlooking hill precipices
are focal points in houses like these. Photograph by Davinia Gregory, July 2013.
interiors and certainly more important than the fronts of the houses, which are
quite simple. These houses are primarily about two things: being in Jamaica at
last and working life being over, leaving the returnees time to enjoy the view.
Uncle Randolph attests to spending most of every day on his balcony looking
out. Launsby Hayden has often made clear that the flat roof of his house will
eventually be a balcony for barbecues and gatherings. It is the feature that he is
most proud of, and he is most careful in overseeing it remotely. It offers a bird’seye, breezy view of picturesque Jamaica, away from the heat and mosquitoes
found at sea level.
Uncle Randolph’s house is more akin to a modernist box on pilotis than a
Jamaican great-house with columns. Split-level but with only one floor visible
from the road, it appears far more modest from outside than inside. He was
keen to mention that there is no trouble on the hill for returnees because
of the lofty location. Indeed safety is paramount for a ‘foreigner’ in Jamaica
and displaying one’s wealth acquired abroad is not a priority, especially if the
owner is overseas for part of the year, leaving the house partially unattended.
Ostentatious columns therefore go against the purpose of a house like this on
a very practical level. Many returnees live on Spur Tree Hill, partly for this
pragmatic reason and partly because the Jamaica imagined by the returnee is
far more akin to the Jamaica of fifty years ago than to the country experienced
by the contemporary citizen. In the 1960s people aspired to owning a hilltop
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Individualism and Domestic Built Form in Twenty-First-Century Jamaica
237
house for exclusivity as well as safety. Diana De Lisser pointed out: ‘Oh we
didn’t live down here by the sea then. In those days if you lived next to the
water you got malaria. So we lived up on the hill’ (Interview, 2013). Indeed
the 1969 edition of Jamaica and West Indian Review featured an article simply
entitled ‘Montego Bay’ which mentions one of her family’s homes: ‘Montego
Bay was crowded in mid-February [. . .] However the crowds did not worry
us as we hardly experienced them. We stayed as usual with Gary and Dick De
Lisser in their lovely house on the Rose Hall estate, perched at exactly the right
height above the Caribbean’ (Chapman 1969: 47).
The author goes on to describe the house of a friend of the De Lissers’,
president of the Casa Blanca Company, Stanley Vaughan. Vaughan’s new flat featured a swimming pool that had been hewn out of the cliff face. The guest was
impressed by the excess of combining water, one of the joys of the seaside, with
the exclusive perspective of the hill: ‘I have always thought a two-seater RollsRoyce, with all that lovely wasted power, the height of luxury; Stanley’s abode
runs it a close second’ (Chapman 1969: 47). It is true that hills in places near
to the ocean were the territory of the wealthy few in mid-twentieth-century
Jamaica, when many poorer citizens were migrating. Nowadays, descendants
of these old, white creole families and international celebrities have properties
by yacht clubs near the sea, leaving large houses in the hills as the preserve of
retired returnees who had fixed in their minds through years of working abroad
the image of a large, safe house on a hill with a view over the world and infinite leisure time in which to enjoy it. Corinthian columns as symbols of social
movement are irrelevant to them – for them the return itself is the apex of
social movement, as is the view. They are concerned with being inconspicuous
but looking out on a world that brings them peace. The citizen is concerned
with distinguishing themselves and looking in on a home that brings them
pride. The returnee has no need for an empire of his or her own anymore; that
need was quashed upon living in the metropolis. What they want is a Jamaica
of their own. That is the difference between the two experiences of the island.
Conclusion
The image of the returnee on the hill is persistent, reminding me of the tower
described by Virginia Woolf. Relocation abroad was, to the postwar migrant,
the equivalent of starting a taxi business for Mitchie, or the pursuit of higher
education and professional careers for the Downers. It was the commencement of a journey to chase the particular vantage point of privilege described
by Woolf. Just as A Room of One’s Own demanded for women the freedom to
write – essentially to learn and work – as equals, so the process of laying claim
to a little empire of one’s own demands the freedom to live as equals in an
unequal world.
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Davinia Gregory
Post-war migrants attempted to achieve this by moving to England, thus
following everything deemed desirable that had been produced in Jamaica
prior to independence, Jamaica having been colonized to be an export centre
(Phillips and Phillips 1998: 17). Just over fifty years after independence, increased
opportunities for education and work domestically have made it possible for
many more Jamaicans to achieve at home what the migrants had travelled to
chase, then having achieved it, to adopt symbols of power and wealth in the
customization of property. But to what extent is this process successful? The
adoption of columns might imply a vicious circle. Hirsch and Miller (2011)
acknowledged attachment to the past as a characteristic of the contemporary
world. I would complicate the suggestion of simple attachment by using another
reference to Woolf. A Room of One’s Own has been described by Elizabeth Eger
as often having ‘been read as a history of the woman writer’s lack of agency,
arguably contributing to the frustrating state of affairs in which women are
forever in the process of rediscovering their foremothers’ (2008: 144). Could
a similarly frustrating state of affairs be the end result for diasporic peoples
seeking completion, belonging and home? On the surface it might seem that
the formation of a progressive identity and sense of national and individual
pride may be hindered by constantly looking to the past. However this article
has explored the elaborate and subconscious reasons for neoclassical pastiche
by Jamaican individuals, and its findings have suggested that this is not the case.
The motivations of the post-war migrant and the contemporary country house
builder are similar, but the age difference between them is striking. In their midthirties, homeowners like Kemoy Downer have not experienced the double
displacement of being firstly part of an African diaspora removed by slavery,
then a Jamaican diaspora removed by migration. The modes of achievement
available to them mean that the process of social mobility is quicker and less
likely to cause rifts and transformations on the scale experienced by post-war
migrants in their comparable endeavours. In this way, the columns represent
progress in Jamaica’s ability to facilitate affiliative self-fashioning.
While in Clarendon I attended a primary school graduation in which
the headmistress, Marlene Ayton, made it clear to the children that having
attended a tiny rural school in a village not on most maps would not stand
them in good stead for making their mark on the world. Her emphasis was
on proving the world wrong and returning to Elgin Primary at graduation
time to inspire future generations to do the same. I thought of my father who
had attended that school as a child. At ten years old he was sent to innercity London to make his mark on a world very different to, and much larger
than, his own, never to return. Looking at these children I was struck by how
much more achievable belonging, stability and status in Jamaica are for them
than for his generation. New methods of claiming an empire of one’s own in
which to live, such as the adoption of Corinthian style columns on middle-class
homes, are more effective than migration was. They represent a simplification
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Individualism and Domestic Built Form in Twenty-First-Century Jamaica
239
in the performance of social mobility, which now involves adapting symbols
and customs that have become Jamaican since independence, in an important
transfer of cultural power.The educational, economic and social healing process
that has enabled and is still enabling this shift has been subtle in places and
not universally successful. Nevertheless, as a phenomenon that has left such
a striking visual mark across the whole island, it should not be overlooked.
Columns serve as evidence of its importance.
Notes
1. Here, Creolization refers to the complexity, hybridity and resultant restructuring of
peoples, languages, cultures and cultural expressions like art and design as the result of colonialism
and subsequent globalization. ‘Creole cultures – like creole languages – are intrinsically of mixed
origin, the confluence of two or more widely separated historical currents which interact in what
is basically a centre/periphery relationship. [However,] the cultural processes of creolization are
not simply a matter of constant pressure from the centre toward the periphery, but a much more
creative interplay. [. . .] Creole cultures come out of multi-dimensional cultural encounters and
can put things together in new ways’ (Hannerz 1992: 164–165). Because the many ethnicities,
languages and traditions that constituted plantation culture are still mixed there, the Caribbean
was acknowledged by Stuart Hall (2003) to be an ideal crucible for the study of creolization. Jay
Edwards (2001: 86) has examined the relations between architectural creolization and the other
forms of creole culture, making the link between concepts of creolization and built form.
2. Because of creolization and the echoes of plantation culture, Jamaica’s class system is
subtle and intricate. Marie Hayden and Diana De Lisser’s contrasts are representative of the way
that subtle gradations of ethnicity and occupation can still be as important indicators of class as
family economic history and personal wealth in Jamaica. Marie is a medium fair-skinned black
woman who worked as a teacher and now holds a senior post in the Jamaican government’s
Ministry for Education. She is well respected both in her small community and for her occupation, across the country. She is a lone parent with modest personal wealth and is a first generation
professional. Diana De Lisser is a white Jamaican woman from a former slave-owning family.
The historical bedrock of white West Indian identity and its tensions not only with black West
Indianness but also with white Europeanness have been explored by David Lambert in White
Creole Culture (2005), and De Lisser is subsequently referred to as a white creole in this chapter.
Her personal wealth has been depleted over the years, yet her ethnicity and inherited home in
Montego Bay enable her to retain her status as one of the country’s elite class.
3. Mitchie Davis represents members of the economically deprived rural class. Much of the
extended Davis family, formerly farmers, have emigrated and those who are left struggle to find
work in the remote areas they inhabit now that agriculture is not a sustainable career. As a taxi
driver, Mitchie has established himself as a lynchpin of the community, see Miller (2009).
References
Chapman, E. 2014. ‘Montego Bay’, Jamaica and West Indian Review, Summer 1969: 47.
Chitham, R. (1985).The Classical Orders of Architecture. Oxford: Elsevier/Architectural Press.
Clifford, J. 1997. Routes. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
Davis, M. 2013. Driving in Jamaica. Interviewed by Davinia Gregory [in person], Jamaica, various
locations, July 2013.
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Davinia Gregory
De Lisser, D. 2013. Interview: Trevor Owen. Interviewed by Davinia Gregory [in person], Montego
Bay, Jamaica, August 2013.
Downer, K. 2013. Interview: Building the Columned House. Interviewed by Davinia Gregory [in
person], St Ann, Jamaica, July 2013.
Edwards, J. 2001. ‘Architectural Creolization: The Meaning of Colonial Architecture’, in
M. Amerlinck de Bontempo (ed.), Architectural Anthropology. Westport, CN: Greenwood
Publishing, pp. 86–120.
Eger, E. and L. Peltz. 2008. Brilliant Women. New Haven, CT.:Yale University Press.
Gilroy, P. 1993.The Black Atlantic. Cambridge, MA: Harvard University Press.
Gregory, D. 2013 ‘Jamaica in Transition: A Tale of Two Houses’, Design History Society Annual
Conference: Postcolonial Perspectives, Ahmedabad, India, 5–8 September 2013. Ahmedabad:
National Institute of Design.
Hall, S. 1995. ‘Negotiating Caribbean Identities’, The New Left Review 209: 3–14.
Hall, S. (2003). Créolité and the Process of Creolization. In: O. Enwezor, ed., Créolité and
Creolization. Ostfildern-Ruit: Hatje Cantz.
Hannerz, U. 1992. Cultural Complexity. New York: Columbia University Press.
Hayden, M. 2013. Interview: Jamaicanness and Britishness. Interviewed by Davinia Gregory [in
person], St Ann, Jamaica, June 2013.
Hirsch, M. and N.K. Miller. 2011. Rites of Return. New York: Columbia University Press.
Horst, H.A. and D. Miller. 2006. The Cell Phone. Oxford: Berg.
Lambert, D. 2005. White Creole Culture, Politics, and Identity during the Age of Abolition. Cambridge:
Cambridge University Press.
Macfarlane, C. 2013. Interview: Farming Work in Contemporary Jamaica. Interviewed by Davinia
Gregory [in person], Clarendon, Jamaica, July 2013.
May, A.J. 1933. ‘The Architecture of the West Indies’, The West India Committee Circular, 16 March:
105–126.
Miller, D. 2009. Anthropology and the Individual. Oxford: Berg.
Nelson, A. 2011. ‘The Factness of Diaspora’, in M. Hirsch and N.K. Miller (eds), Rites of Return.
New York: Columbia University Press, pp. 23–39.
Phillips, M. and T. Phillips. 1998. Windrush. London: HarperCollins.
Reid,V.S. 1970. Buildings in Jamaica. Kingston: Jamaica Information Service.
Rykwert, J. 1996. The Dancing Column. Cambridge, MA: MIT Press.
Said, E.W. 1993. Culture and Imperialism. New York: Knopf.
Shaw, E., T.W. Silloway and G.M. Harding. 1852. Shaw’s Civil Architecture. Boston: J.P. Jewett.
Smith, M. 1961. ‘The Plural Framework of Jamaican Society’. The British Journal of Sociology, 13(3):
249–262.
Weil, S. 1949. L’enracinement, prélude à une déclaration des devoirs envers l’être humain. [Paris]: Gallimard.
Woolf,V. 1957 [1917]. A Room of One’s Own. New York: Harcourt, Brace, Jovanovich.
Davinia Gregory is a PhD researcher in the University of Warwick’s Sociology
Department and Centre of Cultural Policy Studies, supervised by Dr. Hannah
Jones and Professor Eleonora Belfiore. Her project is conducted in collaboration with The Drum Arts Centre in Birmingham, UK, and it considers how
the many ways in which people of varying ethnic and cultural identities engage
with the cultural industries can be used to inform cultural policy in the UK.
Davinia’s former teaching posts have been in design history and theory at institutions including Bath Spa and Kingston Universities.
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CHAPTER
1 4
The Quest for Modernity
A Global/National Approach to a History of Design
in Latin America
Patricia Lara-Betancourt
Design history studies in Latin America, strictly speaking, are just emerging,
partly in response to the global reach that the discipline has experienced in
recent years.1 This chapter asks what kind of design history seems relevant
for the region in an age of globalization, and argues for a complementary
approach where both the national and the global, in their interaction, are
equally relevant. In historical discourse, and for over a hundred years, the
nation has been the favoured unit of analysis. This methodological nationalism
has been criticized for its tendency to think of the nation as autonomous
and self-determining, lessening the significance and role of global factors in
shaping history (Wimmer and Glick Schiller 2002). What I propose here is an
example of altering the framework and discourse to consider how the global
relates to the national, generating perhaps a richer way of analysing design’s
relationship with history and society in Latin America. A shift in focus from
the ‘only national’ to the ‘global and national’ involves exploring the effect of
assimilation and appropriation within the context of sophisticated networks of
trade, world exploration and cultural sovereignty, which by necessity transform
local cultures, arts and traditions. Drawing from published work and from my
current and past research on the history of design and decorative arts in Latin
America, I will refer initially to the debate about the role of the nation state in
a globalized world and its methodological implications for a Latin American
context. I will be proposing a dual global and national focus to the discussion
of two examples – one from the nineteenth and the other from the second half
of the twentieth century – exemplifying different approaches to design history,
Notes for this section begin on page 256.
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interpreted as quests for modernity and identity. Such a focus, in attending to
the interplay between global forces and national dynamics, highlights the way
in which both shape, influence and respond to each other.
Forms of Exchange: The Dynamics of Globalization
and the Nation State
As part of a globalized world, more than ever design is being affected by farreaching changes in technology, communication and markets. As globalization
accelerates, and in spite of its obvious benefits, there are increasing complaints
about the spread of a homogenous material and visual culture throughout the
world (Holton 2011: 189–202; Fiss 2009: 3). Shopping malls and international
airports are often cited as examples of this tendency that turns cities, buildings
and interiors into the same undifferentiated environments everywhere. However,
given the enormous differences across the world in terms of geography, language,
religion, cultural ways and traditions, it is still a matter of debate whether a
global economy necessarily imposes a homogeneous culture (Holton 2011:
202–215). The same type of designed commodities, environments, information
and advertising may be spreading everywhere, but there is also no denying the
richly diverse ways in which different societies experience and consume them,
not to mention the different meanings that people ascribe to them. The notion
of hybridity is relevant here, with its focus on understanding how cultural
exchanges take place and how cultures interact to produce something new.
This approach suggests that globalization, in forging new hybrid paths, brings
into question homogenizing and Westernizing trends (Pieterse 1995: 69–90),
attending both to the global and national, and resulting in new articulations
of the social and the cultural. With Latin America as a case study, and within
a context of multi-cultural awareness, a number of Latin American scholars
have analysed the way in which individuals interact with commercially driven
media, highlighting their human agency and creative potential in receiving,
manipulating, and sometimes subverting, the highly commodified products
and messages in everyday life (García Canclini 2001: 10; Martín-Barbero 2000;
García Canclini 1999).2
A common but different argument against the homogenizing tendency
of a globalized economy is that even if global industries, goods, products and
services keep extending their reach, this does not translate into equal access
for all regions and all sectors of society. There are large inequalities in the
redistribution of wealth in the world and within countries.With 100% meaning
maximum inequality, the Gini index figures for Latin America fluctuate between
45% and 59% (Colombia has 58.5%, Chile 52.1%, Brazil 51.9%, Mexico 48.3%
and Argentina 45.8%) (CIA The World Factbook [2009–2014]; Gini Index at
https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/fields/2172.
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html).3 What this argument illustrates is that social and economic differences
still act as considerable counterbalances to homogenizing tendencies of
multinational capitalism and that a significant part of consumption still remains
determined by local political powers and policies of redistribution.
The Global/National Framework
As a historical process, globalization predates the emergence of nation states,
with the connections between the birth of nation states and industrialization being evident since around 1750. Historians have pointed out that it
was only within the context of an industrial society that nationalism could
develop; showing how only the systems and infrastructures of industrialized
societies could sustain the growth of nation states and nationalism (Hobsbawm
1990; Gellner 1983; Anderson 1991). It is interesting to note that the growth
of nationalism in the nineteenth century was an international process, with
nations emerging at the same time on both sides of the Atlantic, in Europe
and in the Americas, and with the colonies seeking independence as European
monarchies weakened, eventually coming to an end as ruling powers. With a
history approaching two hundred years, the Latin American nation states have
kept changing, responding and adapting to the dynamic interaction with global
forces and in so doing have so far survived.
For some years now a global trend in design history has been unfolding,
which has provided an opportunity to revise and revisit disciplinary questions.
Even though this perspective implies bringing all regions in the world into
the purview of the discipline, it is much more than a revision of geographic
boundaries defining the field.The aspiration to globalize the discipline involves
questioning the long-held assumption that the West (Europe and the USA)
has had a leading role in history. The period between 1850 and 1950 could
be seen as a co-production between Western and non-Western cultures rather
than as a unilateral process driven by the West alone (Bayly 2004). Sociologist
Robert Holton has pointed out that the ‘historical contribution of nonEuropean regions to the history of globalization has been marginalized’, but
more revealing perhaps is the ‘presumption that the non-Western world can
only participate in the global by assimilating ‘Western’ practices, many of which
actually originated outside the West’ (Holton 2011: 45). The notions of ‘West’
and ‘Europe’ have also come under scrutiny, with their status as monolithic,
unchanging realities being questioned (Turner 2007). In moving away from
a hierarchical and Western narrative, the non-Western element disappears as
‘other’ and the field of inquiry opens up to alternative, multiple and decentred
perspectives. Going beyond colonial and postcolonial perspectives, a global/
national approach allows for a dialogue between multiple locations with a
focus on cultural mobility (of goods, artefacts, people and cultural practices)
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Patricia Lara-Betancourt
and on the increased understanding of how transregional and transnational
exchanges operate.
It becomes clear then that it would be limiting to discuss the historical
development of Latin American design and material culture without a global/
national interrelated approach. Made of twenty countries stretching from
Mexico to Chile and a population nearing 600 million, the region represents a
huge and growing market. In 2009 most Latin American countries had a higher
per capita GDP than that of China, showing the growing economic importance of the area and particularly of nations such as Brazil, Argentina, Chile
and Mexico. Latin American modern history started with the geographical and
commercial expansion of European powers in the sixteenth century when, in
becoming part of colonial empires, the Americas were placed in contact with
the rest of the world. The new European inhabitants brought along not only
a different genetic pool, but also different modes of government, economic
systems, social organization, language, religion and artistic legacies. Indigenous
Americans experienced this foreign invasion as the end of their world. However,
and in spite of continuous miscegenation, some aspects of indigenous cultures
managed to survive, including ancient arts, crafts and design practices. From the
seventeenth century European traders forced the migration of Africans to the
Americas as slave labour, adding to the already complex human and cultural
melding of the Hispanic, Portuguese and ethnic diversity of indigenous groups.
With the end of colonial rule in the early nineteenth century (excepting
Cuba, Puerto Rico and Brazil), Latin America was born as a group of newly
independent republican nations eager to start their gradual integration into the
global industrial economy. This shift determined not only the type of national
economies that were to emerge later in the century, gearing efforts towards the
production of raw materials required by European nations, but also the material
culture the region was to adapt, adopt and develop from then on, embracing
industrial technology in the shape of European imports.Without this economic
integration the new but fragile nations would not have been able to protect
their sovereignty and remain as viable independent states.
The Quest to Modernize
The discipline of design history has mainly reflected the output of industrialized nations. Given that most countries in Latin America still do not have a fully
industrialized economy, and that design historical studies are still emerging, the
role played by the region in terms of design and manufacture has been underresearched and is largely unknown. The subject is only taught as a component
of design training, and although there have been well-established university
design education programmes since the 1960s, there are no self-contained
courses in design history in higher education.
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A Global/National Approach to a History of Design in Latin America
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Considering the effects of economic globalization, the power of global
corporations and global financial institutions is undeniable. Nevertheless, this
power is not absolute in that, in order to operate, corporations and institutions
need the collaboration and assistance of local governments. In Latin America
it has been mainly during periods of protectionist policies – when governments have acted against the free-market rule – that industrialization efforts
and industrial design have developed. One such period is discussed in a recent
publication which is, so far, the only comprehensive account of design history
for the region.4 Historia del Diseño en América Latina y el Caribe (2008), edited by
Gui Bonsiepe and Silvia Fernandez, is a multi-authored volume focusing on the
development of industrial and communication design in the past fifty years. It is
written mostly by educators and practitioners working in Latin America, rather
than by scholars trained as design historians. Considering socio-economic and
socio-political processes, the chapters take into account shifts in political orientation, waves of immigration, surges of capital investment, and conditions dictated by the global financial institutions. As the authors reveal, it was not until
the protectionist policy known as ISI, ‘Import-Substitution Industrialization’,
became prevalent in the 1960s and 1970s, that most Latin American countries
were committed to state-driven industrial development.The authors discuss the
effects of implementation of the ISI agenda, whose aim was to produce locally
those products that had traditionally been imported, drawn partly in response
to the demands from the macro-economy and international financial agencies.
The result was accelerated industrialization at first, but in the midterm (especially in the 1980s), there were negative economic consequences for the region
as a whole. Latin America went through a debt and financial crisis when the
amount of foreign debt surpassed the countries’ earning power and most were
forced to default on repayments. On social grounds the disappointment was
even bigger as people had hoped that once industrialization was implemented
change in the social order would follow, but that was not the case. The process
showed, however, that the significant development of design in the 1960s and
1970s relied on the public sector as the driving force, with the Ministries of
Economy, Industry and Commerce establishing institutions, setting up cultural
and educational programmes, and, with the crucial input of design, striving to
make the economic sector an autonomous one. So far, in most cases this type
of initiatives has not lasted long enough to permit nascent industries to grow
sufficiently strong to compete successfully in the world market.
The Quest for Identity
If we move away from a focus on industrialization and consider instead the nineteenth century, a different kind of design history emerges, one that refers to the
wider process of modernity including the impact that British industrialization
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had on global commerce and the emergence of Latin American export economies. This approach considers overall the unprecedented level of consumption
of European imports and technology that took place in the second half of
the century (Bauer 2001; Orlove and Bauer 1997; Lara-Betancourt 1997 and
1998). The picture grows more complex, adding layers of cultural issues such
as what these goods represented, and in connection with them the emergence
of national and class identities. Adopting simultaneously a national and global
framework I examine the cultural narratives underpinning this history while
focusing on how the region as a whole embraced, adopted and adapted the
diverse manifestations of global modernity represented in its material culture. I
move away from the traditional opposition between global supremacy and local
appropriation to pay attention to the complex interplay between them.
Design and decorative arts in nineteenth-century Latin America were, as
in the colonial past, a powerful medium through which to convey political and
cultural ideas, values and attitudes. With independence from colonial rule, this
role became crucial in defining the nascent nations and disseminating a rich
republican symbolism.The material culture of the countries, cities and the homes
of the elite and middle classes was radically transformed through the century,
spurred by a strong desire in Latin Americans to become modern, to emulate
industrializing nations (Britain, France, Germany and the USA) and to fashion
themselves as Europeans. Integrating Latin America in the world economy and
acquiring the signs of progress and modernity were believed to be essential for
the economic and political survival of the new independent countries.Thus the
adoption of a European material culture, patterns of consumption and social
etiquette became not only the new parameters for social distinction but also
an indisputable and indispensable signifier of class and national identity (LaraBetancourt 1997 and 1998; Orlove and Bauer 1997: 1–29).5
With the exception of Brazil, Cuba and Puerto Rico, by 1830 all countries
in Latin America had achieved independence and become republics. Brazil
eventually abandoned its constitutional monarchy to embrace a republican
system in 1889. The new states faced the enormous task of establishing stable
political regimes and modernizing largely rural countries with hierarchical
traditions, high rates of illiteracy, and economies hitherto geared to colonial
interests and slave labour. Throughout the century internal conflicts, crossborder disputes and clashes between warring political groups, each vying with
the other in trying to implement a democratic system, were some of the driving
forces spurring social, political and cultural change. However, in the second half
of the century, and underpinned by foreign investment and the consolidation of
an export economy, Liberalism strengthened and warfare decreased, resulting in
unprecedented economic prosperity (Bushnell and Macaulay 1994;Williamson
1992: 233–284).
From the 1820s the new republics started the long process of state and
nation building, aiming to establish and expand a shared sense of identity linked
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247
to nationhood (König 1994: 187–322). In order to awaken a feeling of national
belonging, the use of visual symbols was fundamental in conveying the republican ideals. In a region where illiteracy was the norm (and continued to be
widespread until the 1870s), the power of visual images was crucial. An emerging visual culture and public rituals and spectacles were necessary instruments
to convey and disseminate clear ideological messages (Andermann and Schell
2000). Displayed at civic celebrations taking place throughout the century, the
new symbols helped to create, even if slowly, a civic conscience. The new era
also witnessed a revolution in forms of communication. Printed text and images
(in paper money, newspapers, leaflets and books) gave authority to the new
political ideas and helped in propagating them. The national visual discourse
was important not only in publicizing modern political practices and instilling a
sense of belonging to a territory; it was also a message directed at other nations
in the world, particularly European states with the power to confirm the political legitimacy and sovereignty of the new republics. Although at first not all
sectors of the population were represented in these national visions promoted
by political elites (poor creoles and mestizos, indigenous groups and African
descendants were excluded), the ideal of national identity and unity became
more attainable in the last third of the century when the growth of export
economies permitted the implementation of long-dreamt plans for urbanization and modernization.
In the aftermath of Independence governments had little money for new
buildings so republican symbols were represented and disseminated mainly
through the national flag and coat of arms, coins, paper money, stamps and portraits of Independence heroes depicting objects such as military uniforms, swords,
medals, etc. (Bretos 2004: 147–206). The Mexican flag for example, created in
1821, depicted an Aztec legend, with an eagle sitting on a cactus while devouring a serpent. According to legend, the gods had instructed the Aztecs to build a
city when they found this bird. The flag’s green strip represented Independence
victory, a white strip signified the purity of Catholicism, and a red strip made
reference to the sacrificial blood of national heroes. The eagle in Mexico and
the condor in Argentina, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru became
prominent symbols of the nation, and have been represented in national coats
of arms, stamps, flags, medals and in a variety of decorative objects ever since.
After Independence, in the 1820s and 1830s, the structures supporting the
production of crafts and decorative arts started to be dismantled, particularly
those connected to the guild system and the Catholic Church. Throughout the
colonial period the Church, with its mission to promote religious dogma and
visual motifs, had been the fundamental inspiration and drive for artistic and craft
practices (Rishel and Stratton-Pruitt 2006). Once the republicans came into
power, the Church, with its historical ties to monarchic power, was seen as part
of the old order and consequently considered an enemy of progress and Liberal
ideas. Thus it gradually lost its influence and eventually ceased to be the main
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Figure 14.1 Jar with Lid (14”), Caballo Blanco Alfar, ca. 1890, Aguascalientes,
Mexico; Giffords Collection. Photograph courtesy of Gloria Giffords.
patron of the arts. The citizens of the new republics were now more interested
in modern and novel political and cultural icons, subjects and themes that spoke
to them of liberal values, such as liberty, equality and sovereignty. Portraits of the
new leaders dressed in impressive military uniforms and visual representations
of republican allegories all provided ideological support to the nascent powers
(Ades 1989: 7–22; Martin 1985). A common allegorical image of Independence
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A Global/National Approach to a History of Design in Latin America
249
was that of a crowned Latin American indigenous woman. Besides appearing
in paintings and flags, she also featured on coins and on the new national coats
of arms. The woman was typically shown wearing a crown of feathers, carrying
a quiver of arrows on her back, and with her feet resting on a tamed caiman.
The best known representation is Pedro José Figueroa’s painting (1819) showing
Simón Bolívar (1783–1830), the Independence hero, as the Father of the nation
embracing an American Indian, representing the Republic, as his daughter.
Figueroa painted the canvas to celebrate the final victory against the Spaniards
after the battle of Boyacá (Colombia) on 7 August 1819 (Ades 1989).
Republican symbols also appeared on more domestic and personal items
such as chairs, mirrors and tableware and also on cufflinks, buttons, guns and
holsters. Bolívar’s French tableware for his ‘Quinta’ (the country house which
he used as his refuge in Santa Fé de Bogotá, between 1820 and 1830 – today
a museum) was printed with the Republican coat of arms (Museo Quinta de
Bolivar, Bogotá, Colombia; http://www.quintadebolivar.gov.co/). In Mexico,
Agustín de Iturbide (1783–1824), another Latin American revolutionary, had
his lithographed effigy and the Castle of Chapultepec (site of government)
printed on a set of glassware comprising a decanter, bombonniers, tray and cups
made in coloured crystal glass from Bohemia.
Figure 14.2 Set of bombonniers, decanter, tray and cups with lithographed effigy
of Agustín de Iturbide and the Castle of Chapultepec; cut and coloured glass;
Bohemia manufacture, Czech Republic; ca. 1820; Museo Nacional de Historia,
Mexico. Image authorized by the Instituto Nacional de Antropologia e Historia,
CONACULTA.-INAH.-MEX.
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Fuelled by the rhetoric of the French Revolution and its enormous influence on Independence movements in the Americas, in terms of style (until the
1830s), the new republican powers favoured the (so called) French Empire,
mostly in its American (Federal) and English (Regency) versions (Duarte 1982;
Rivas 2007). This neoclassical aesthetic, called ‘Republican’ in some countries,
influenced furniture, furnishings, fashion and attire (Duarte 2011). Most of the
miniatures painted in these years show women dressed and coiffured according
to this neoclassical trend. The furniture at Bolívar’s ‘Quinta’ exemplifies the
style (Museo Quinta de Bolivar).
In the second half of the century, government efforts to strengthen economic and commercial links with European and North American nations to
integrate into the world economy focused on participating in international
exhibitions and trade fairs, which were seen as the summit of progress and
modernity and epitomized the spirit of free commerce (Di Liscia and Lluch
2009; González Stephan and Andermann 2006; Elkin 1999; Tenorio-Trillo
1996). Several Latin American countries such as the Argentine Confederation,
the Empire of Brazil, Uruguay, Colombia, Mexico, Costa Rica, Guatemala
and the Dominican Republic contributed to the Great Exhibition of 1851
in London, and to the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1855. These events and
the pavilions designed and built for the spectacular display and presentation
of goods and products encapsulated the nations’ identity and the image that
Latin American republics wanted to communicate and promote abroad. In spite
of their differences, Latin American nations used similar modern designs to
convey their identities as nation states. Participating at international expositions
represented part of a larger group of official efforts to forge a sense of national
pride and identity, which included museums, monuments, pageantry, illustrated
magazines and, in general, progress-related representations and imagery, all contributing to creating the spectacle of modernity.
The Brazilian pavilion at the Philadelphia Centennial Exposition of 1876
was designed by US architect Frank Furness. Built in a style of architecture
described as ‘Mourisco’ (meaning Moorish), the front façade used translucent
glass bricks in flag colour combinations of green/yellow and red/blue to represent Brazil and the USA coming together (Gross and Snyder 2005). Almost
ten years later, another famous Moorish pavilion was built by Mexico at the
‘New Orleans Universal Cotton Exposition and World’s Fair’ (December 1884
to June 1885). Designed by Ramón Ibarrola and built in iron and steel by the
Keystone Bridge Company of Pittsburgh, the ‘Mexican Alhambra’ as it was
called, was widely admired mainly due to the colourful prefabricated concrete
slabs and tiles inspired by Moorish designs. Part of its attraction was that its
structure was made from cast iron pieces that could be assembled and dismantled without much difficulty (Mrotek 2009). As in the case of Brazil’s pavilion
above, the reference was not to an indigenous exoticism, or to a Moorish influence on Mexican architecture. The theme was a response to the huge interest
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Figure 14.3a The Mexican pavilion at the New Orleans Exhibition 1884–1885;
New Orleans Public Library Special Collections.
in exotic cultures that Europeans and the nations under their cultural influence
(such as the new republics in Latin America) expressed at the time. The design
was also a direct reference to the Moorish horticulture hall of Philadelphia in
1876. After the Exhibition the kiosk was reassembled on the ‘Parque Alameda
Central’ in Mexico City until 1910 when it was moved to the ‘Alameda de
Santa María la Ribera’ where it stands today. Most Latin American pavilions
were designed by European and North American artists and designers, who
probably knew little about these countries. Overall, pavilion designs reflected
the compromises between the different parties involved: the state representatives, the event organizers and the general public, whose expectations were
informed by current trends in taste and fashion.
Throughout the nineteenth century, and particularly during the second
half, Latin Americans, in their ambition to spur progress on, showed a marked
preference for new technology and imported goods. A new sense of identity emerged in allegiance with the modern world and a rising international
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Figure 14.3b The Mexican pavilion today, known as Kiosco Morisco, and displayed
at the Alameda Santa María La Ribera, Mexico City. Photograph courtesy of Marco
Velázquez.
bourgeoisie. The growing industrialization of Europe and the expansion in
international trade acted as a catalyst for Latin America to integrate finally into
the global economy. There was, literally, a flood of imports after 1850 when
the European demand for raw materials from overseas acted as a great stimulus
to national and local economies. Mexican mining and agricultural produce,
Colombian and Costa Rican coffee, Argentine beef and wheat, Brazilian coffee
(Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo), cotton, sugar (Recife and Fortaleza) and rubber
(in the Amazon: Manaus and Belem) and Chilean copper and nitrates, were
among the raw materials sustaining the export economy (Bauer 2001; Orlove
and Bauer 1997; Bushnell and Macaulay 1994). Particularly in the last quarter
of the century, the influx of capital was destined for the building of railroads and
transport infrastructure, in an attempt to reduce transport costs. As an example,
among the impressive imported buildings made in iron and to be assembled on
site, were prefabricated British railway stations, public markets, theatres, bandstands, and also houses. The use of iron in architecture immediately conveyed
high social status due to its foreign origin, and any building could increase its
value if iron structures were added, such as verandas, balconies, stairways or railings (Gomes 1995).
New wealth allowed the elite and also the emerging middle classes to
acquire enticing European and foreign luxury commodities which represented
not just a yearning for modernity but also an unequivocal social marker. The
design of imported goods came to reference social class and buying these goods
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A Global/National Approach to a History of Design in Latin America
253
became a clear and effective way of drawing and communicating social differences. Rather than being based on family lineage, as had been the case in the
colonial past, social distinctions were increasingly linked to wealth and material possessions as the century progressed (Arana López 2011; Lara-Betancourt
1997 and 1998; Needell 1988).
The notion of what constituted foreign goods was a flexible one. Strictly
speaking, it referred mainly to imported products, but also included objects
made locally that resembled in design those that came from overseas (Orlove
and Bauer 1997: 12–13). And the same criteria applied to products manufactured locally using imported materials, such as British woollen cloth employed
to make suits or imported material to erect buildings. The drawing room of a
typical middle-class home of the period would probably display a combination of imported and locally-produced furniture and furnishings: a piano and
wallpaper would likely be of European origin, but the sofa and chairs would
be supplied by the local cabinet maker. With the surge of imports, in every
nation there was also significant stimulus to manufactures and factories producing machine-made goods such as textiles, ceramics, tiles and furniture. The
conversadeira (loveseat) (Fig. 14.4) is a fine example of the type of furniture
being produced in Bahia, Brazil during its imperial period (a collection of
them are kept at the Museo Carlos Costa Pinto, Sao Paulo, Brazil; http://
www.museucostapinto.com.br/capa.asp). Made in jacaranda, a fashionable
Figure 14.4 does not appear in the Open Access edition due to rights restrictions.
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Patricia Lara-Betancourt
wood for domestic furniture, this type of chair was probably commissioned
by one of the traditional Bahian families who made their fortunes in the
business of sugar export. Produced in European styles fashionable at the time,
the range of furniture made with this type of wood was varied and included
different types of tables, chests, chest of drawers, wardrobes, desks, secrétaires,
sofas, beds, mirrors, dressing tables and many others (Museo Carlos Costa
Pinto).
Among the wealthy, domestic architecture reached European standards
with families spending on them as much as their counterparts in industrialized
nations. Latin America, particularly Mexico and the southern countries (Chile,
Argentina and Brazil) had an impressive (and many complained excessive)
Belle Époque which lasted until the 1920s (Bauer 2001: 129–164; Needell
1988). There was a construction boom in the last third of the century when
the traditional colonial patio-centred houses were replaced with two- and
three-storied houses and mansions. Many of the new domestic buildings followed the Second Empire French style, all with mansards, ample staircases
and surrounding garden with gates to the street. Many others still followed
neoclassical inspiration expressed mostly as Beaux Arts Classicism (Arana
López 2011).
Public architecture did not lag behind and throughout the region foreign
architects and engineers, and native ones trained in Europe, designed and
built government sites, opera houses, theatres (Fig. 14.5), department stores,
parks, boulevards and modern types of construction such as railway stations. A
Figure 14.5 Exterior of Teatro Juárez in Guanajuato, Mexico, ca. 1903. California
Historical Society, Collection at the University of Southern California. Libraries
Special Collections, Wikimedia Commons License.
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A Global/National Approach to a History of Design in Latin America
255
remarkable example of an opera house was the one built in Manaus (Brazil),
literally in the heart of the Amazon rainforest, made possible by the profits
from the rubber boom. The whole region witnessed the transformation of
national capitals from small towns into modern and elegant cities with gas
lighting, trams, theatres and large mansions. Such was the case of Mexico City,
Lima, Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, and even much smaller cities such as
San José in Costa Rica. As attempts were made to emulate European cities,
new avenues and neighbourhoods sprung up, elite clubs emerged and cities
benefited from the modernization of urban services (transport, aqueducts and
sewage systems) (Almandoz 2010; Scobie 1974). For all their differences, Latin
American nations made constant and deliberate use of modern design and
technology (in urban, public and domestic spheres) to achieve modernization
in a postcolonial context and to create and promote a sense of national identity
closely related to it.
Conclusion
The dream of becoming as modern as Europeans did not materialize fully,
as there were still sectors in society and huge areas in the region completely
untouched by these modernizing efforts. But in following the dream Latin
America moved away from a colonial past to engage with modernity in perhaps
the only way that was available given the historical circumstances. The process
is thus better interpreted as one of unquestioning belief in a particular notion
of progress, reflecting a deep aspiration to become part of the modern world.
Although later on it came to be seen as the continuation of a history of dependence, first colonial and then postcolonial, throughout the nineteenth century
the quest for modernization was appreciated as a movement towards liberation from backwardness and isolation. If we compare this approach with the
mixed response given to European goods by Asian and Middle Eastern countries (Western imports, for example, were rejected in China), Latin America
embraced not just foreign goods and technology but what they represented in
terms of enlightenment, modernity and progress (Orlove and Bauer 1997: 28).
In keeping with the global/national approach proposed here, I might add that
without the definitive embrace that Latin American nations gave European
imports and technology, which situated them as a significant part of the global
economy, perhaps the development of European modernity would have been
compromised. We could also venture that it was the close economic, commercial and cultural exchanges engaged in by both parties that suggest that the
shaping of the modern world was after all not a European achievement alone
but a global and transnational one. It is by focusing on this dual perspective that
it becomes possible to appreciate the significance of the transnational interplay
within a global stage.
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Notes
1. Nevertheless, the material culture and decorative arts in the Americas for the
pre-Columbian and colonial periods have been studied by archaeologists, anthropologists and art
historians since the 1920s.
2. Several Latin American theorists, including the Cuban anthropologist Fernando Ortiz
contributing his notion of transculturation, have used concepts such as mestizaje and hybridization
to explain and reflect Latin American cultural realities within a context of heterogeneity, diversity
and pluralism.
3. Sweden has the lowest figure at 23% (2005) being the least unequal in its distribution of
income, and some African countries have the highest index, with figures over 60%. The world
average sits at an estimated 39% (2007).
4. Among surveys considering specific Latin American countries are: for Venezuela, Elina
Pérez Urbaneja’s website article, La Promoción del Diseño Industrial en Venezuela: El Contexto del
Diseño Industrial en los Países ‘Subdesarrollados’ (2001), retrieved 7 May 2014 from http://www.
analitica.com/va/arte/portafolio/8969999.asp; for Brazil, Cardoso (2000; 2005); for Mexico,
Comisarenco Mirkin (2007); and for Argentina, Blanco (2005).
5. My research on the history of the drawing room in Santafé de Bogotá in the nineteenth
century explained the transformation of this emblematic domestic space as a necessary political,
social and cultural strategy to attract foreign investors through the display of what were
considered modern standards of civilization in the shape of furniture, furnishings, interior décor
and etiquette.
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Bushnell, David and Neill Macaulay. 1994. The Emergence of Latin America in the Nineteenth Century,
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Patricia Lara-Betancourt is a research fellow at The Modern Interiors
Research Centre, Kingston University, London, UK.Within the field of modern
interiors and design history, her research focuses on the themes of modernity, representation and identity. Recent publications include her co-authored
chapter, ‘Latin America 1830–1900,’ in History of Design: Decorative Arts and
Material Culture, 1400–2000 (Yale University Press and Bard Graduate Center
2013), and ‘Displaying Dreams: Model Interiors in the London Department
Store, 1890–1914’, in her co-edited and forthcoming volume Architectures of
Display: Department Stores and Modern Retail’ (Routledge forthcoming). She is
co-editor of Performance, Fashion and the Modern Interior: From the Victorians to
Today (Berg 2011).
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CHAPTER
1 5
Of Coffee, Nature and Exclusion
Designing Brazilian National Identity at International
Exhibitions (1867 and 1904)
Livia Rezende
Brazil has a long and rich history of exhibiting artefacts made in the country
and of designing publications, displays and pavilions to represent and promote
the nation abroad. From 1862, forty years after its independence from Portugal,
the Empire of Brazil (1822–1889) participated frequently in International
Exhibitions organized in Europe, North and Latin America. During that period,
the Empire used exhibitions to project a civilized image of the nation abroad,
to promote an advantageous commercial and political position for Brazil in
an increasingly globalized and competitive market, and to prompt Brazil’s
identification as a political, cultural and social unit through differentiation
from other national communities. International Exhibitions proved to be such
a successful medium for state-driven processes of national identification and
international projection that, just four years after its advent as Brazil’s new
political regime, the First Republic (1889–1930) seized the opportunity to
redefine Brazil as a republican nation at the World’s Columbian Exposition in
Chicago in 1893 (Rezende 2010).
The artefacts produced and amassed to represent Brazil abroad, and the
material and visual evidence generated after these exhibitions form an unprecedented resource for the study and understanding of Brazilian culture, design
and the formation of discourses of national identity. These sources, however,
have received little attention from Brazilian design scholars and historians. This
neglect stems, among other causes, from the way in which design has been understood and debated in Brazil until recently. The cultural and political discourses
around design in Brazil have centred upon examining and exalting design as
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a modern activity only, established through the industrialization and rationalization of material production. Design historiography, similarly, has focused on
narrating the institutionalization of education and of professional practice since
the mid-twentieth century (Leon 2014; Cara et al. 2010; Bonsiepe 2011; Braga
2011; Moraes 2006; Pereira de Souza 1996) and on writing the biographies of
professional designers and their heroic precursors framed as ‘pioneers’ (Cunha
Lima 1997, 2012; Souza Leite 2003). This narrowing of discourse resulted in
relegating to academic and historical oblivion artefacts produced in Brazil before
the ‘arrival’ of modern design like those displayed at International Exhibition.
This modernist conception of design practice and discourse is constrained
by the ideologies of industrialization and unbridled modernization. It differs
from the epistemological acceptance of design as a cultural phenomenon, professionalized or not, the historical investigation of which has included material
and visual cultures produced by peoples from diverse geographical backgrounds
and temporal experiences. Since the early 2000s, Brazilian design scholarship has
diversified significantly to embrace the investigation of material and visual culture
and to include archival research as the main source and method of enquiry. For
example, evidence of visual communication and printing processes developed
in Brazil before the establishment of the modern paradigm, but no less modern,
for that matter, have been unearthed from archives and libraries. Research by
Cardoso (2005, 2009), Fonseca (2012a, 2012b), Heynemann et al. (2009), Lima
(2006) and Rezende (2005) has demonstrated, in examining graphic ephemera
such as consumer goods labels and illustrated magazines, the development of a
producer and consumer market in nineteenth-century Brazil. Changes in design
curricula and historiographical revision of the discipline also show a preoccupation with establishing a design scholarship and design practices more attuned to
wider social and cultural considerations (Souza Leite 2006; Braga and Moreira
2012). More recently, scholars have contributed to expanding the geographical
and conceptual boundaries of the design debate in Brazil. Adélia Borges (2012)
examined the potential of craft production to become a valuable and socially
innovative form of sustainable entrepreneurship across Brazil, a proposal that
counteracts Gui Bonsiepe’s persistent association of design and industrialization
for the development of what he calls ‘the Periphery’ [sic] (2011: 17–27). The
organization of the 8th Conference of the International Committee for Design
History and Design Studies (ICDHS) in 2012 in São Paulo, and its subsequent
publication (Farias et al. 2012), promoted the global character of design studies
by ‘making connections between design historical work in different national,
regional and linguistic communities, and recognizing the multiple sites at which
this works is done’ (Adamson, Riello and Teasley 2011: 2).
Adding to the growth of this scholarship, this chapter contributes to a
wider and more robust understanding of Brazilian culture and design history
by addressing a question posed by citizens and intellectuals alike at least since
independence in 1822: what makes Brazil different from other nations and
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Designing Brazilian National Identity at International Exhibitions (1867 and 1904)
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through what cultural, political and social processes are people and things
identified as being Brazilian or having ‘Brazilianness’? The phenomenon of
International Exhibitions posed similarly pressing questions to participating
countries by demanding a materialization of the nation into designed objects,
or into the design of displays and pavilions. In retrospect, these designs and
exhibitions offer an effective viewpoint from which to investigate the ‘national’
within the context of a globalized exchange of ideas and commodities.
National Objects, International Exhibitions
The term ‘international exhibitions’ encompasses a large variety of exhibitions,
expositions universelles, world’s fairs and shows that have proliferated around
the globe since the Great Exhibition of the Industries of All Nations in London
in 1851. Paul Greenhalgh (1988: 10–14) asserts that the birth of the international
exhibition concept gave rise to the increasing commercial and cultural dispute
between Britain and France from the first half of the nineteenth century. In the
exhibitions arena, this dispute was sustained by comprehensive and competitive
displays of fine arts, manufactures and machinery under a context of national
production.Through their frequent exhibitions, Britain, France and subsequent
host nations promoted a re-organization of the world’s material wealth through
the systematic classification and competitive evaluation of exhibits brought
in by visiting nations against those of their own. International exhibitions
commonly promoted a model of an industrialized and ‘civilized’ society to be
aspired to and pursued by other nations.They advanced capitalist expansionism
under the paradoxical discourse that wished to promote peaceful competition
among nations in the context of an ever-increasing international market and
access to natural resources (Rezende 2010: 113–194; Wesemael 2001).
‘Nation’ and ‘national identity’ are paramount concepts for exhibition
studies. National provenance was the primary and chief category whereby
exhibits from around the globe were organized and then classified, compared,
ranked and awarded. Exhibitions promoted the identification between nation
and artefact to the extent that national positioning in the ranking of civilization depended upon how national displays were interpreted and placed with
a spectrum of value that ranged from technical advancement to exoticism.
Conversely, as exhibits were to extol ‘nationhood’, ‘nation-ness’ or ‘national
identity’, authorities responsible for organizing national participation in international exhibitions deployed the medium to further their top-down views of
what their nations were and should become.
Eric Hobsbawm asserts that ‘no single objective criteria – language,
ethnicity, territory or common history – can explain a priori what a nation is’.
He adds,‘categories that may explain one case may not be sufficient for another’
(Hobsbawm 1990: 5–6). In some cases, however, the state has primacy over the
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project of nation-building as ‘nations do not make states and nationalisms but the
other way around’ (Hobsbawm 1990: 10). Official participation in international
exhibitions played a central role in Latin American nation-building processes
and their study shows ‘how states, nations and nationalisms, and notably the
elites, have mobilized and united populations in novel ways to cope with
modern conditions and modern political imperatives’ (Smith 1998: 223). The
Brazilian case exemplifies this primacy. In a postcolonial context in the midnineteenth century, the Empire of Brazil furthered its wishful identification as
a civilized and modern nation despite continuing the enslavement of African
peoples and the decimation of its indigenous population.
To enquire into this state-driven conceptualization of a nation, this chapter
provides a comparative analysis of two instances of participation in international
exhibitions – one organized by the Brazilian Empire (1822–1889) and the other
by the First Republic (1889–1930) – thereby exploring two markedly different
views of what the nation was and should become. By examining the Brazilian
participation in the 1867 Exposition Universelle et Internationale in Paris
against the representation sent to the 1904 Louisiana Purchase International
Exposition in St Louis, this chapter will reveal cleavages in the processes of
national identification and will demonstrate their artificiality as opposed to the
idea of a natural and organic manifestation of nationhood. These two cases,
occuring nearly forty years apart and in different geopolitical contexts, demonstrate how historical changes elicited changes in the representation and the
materialization of the national ideal in the design of displays and exhibition
spaces.
‘A Place for Improvement’: An Empire in a Virgin Forest
On 1 April 1867, the gates of the Champs de Mars palace opened to the second
international exhibition held in Paris, and the first under the Second French
Empire (1852–1870). Conceived to out-do prior London exhibitions in the
continuous rivalry between Britain and France, the Exposition Universelle et
Internationale succeeded in promoting an ‘optimistic and progressive view of
society’ (Greenhalgh 1988: 33) while transitioning the exhibition model from
‘traditional industrial exhibitions to modern culture expositions’ (Wesemael
2001: 221). Unprecedented emphasis was given to shows of different cultures,
from the flaunting of colonial orientalist displays to the erection of specific
pavilions and rooms to identify and differentiate nations in that massive
international site of exchange.
The Empire of Brazil was initially uncertain about participating in the Paris
exhibition. Since 1865, Brazil had been engaged with Argentina and Uruguay in
a war against Paraguay, the longest in its history (1865–1870). The war opposed
the continuation of an indigenous ruled society in South America understood as
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Designing Brazilian National Identity at International Exhibitions (1867 and 1904)
263
barbaric. Hobsbawm, however, considered it as an attack against ‘self-sufficiency’
in the ‘only area of Latin America in which the Indians resisted the settlement of
the whites effectively’ (Hobsbawm 1975: 78).While in Paris ‘the phantasmagoria
of capitalist culture attained its most radiant unfurling’, as Benjamin (2002: 7–8)
famously framed the 1867 exhibition, in South America resistance to capitalist
expansion was being brutally repressed; the male population of Paraguay was
reduced to 30,000 individuals by the end of the war (Hobsbawm 1975: 78).
After organizing provincial and national exhibitions to muster a considerable
collection of exhibits, a group of Brazilian exhibition commissioners, sanctioned
by the emperor Dom Pedro II, undertook the challenge of representing Brazil
amidst the war. Close scrutiny of the Brazilian official publication-cumcatalogue issued for the exhibition reveals the rationale for going to Paris: ‘In
order that Brazil may become one of the greatest nations of the world, nothing
is wanting but population, and to attract this, it is only necessary to render
herself known’ (The Empire of Brazil at the Paris International Exhibition 1867).
By ‘greatest’ exhibition commissioners meant not only the nation’s continental
and vastly unpopulated territory; they also took it upon themselves to act as
the ‘civilization’s forerunner in the South’ (Villeneuve 1868 viii). Thus, it is no
exaggeration to conclude that Brazil’s aims in Europe and in South America, as
well as its positioning in an increasingly globalized world, were not only that of
being recognized as an Empire but also clearly imperialistic.
Perhaps unaware of the conflict in the Plata Basin, the French exhibition commission planned to group all South American countries in one single
room at the Champs de Mars. The idea prompted furore among Brazilian
commissioners. Led by the Brazilian minister in Britain, Francisco Ignacio de
Carvalho Moreira (Barão de Penedo), they challenged the French plan, arguing
that Brazilian goods were ‘more numerous and more indispensable to the
world commerce than those from the rest of the Central and South Americas’
(Villeneuve 1868: xxxii-xxxiii).
Brazil eventually occupied an area of 785 square metres, larger than the
aggregate area given to other Latin American countries, and it secured a separate
room but one still located too near to other South American nations (Pesavento
1997: 137;Villeneuve 1868: xxiii-lix). ‘The vicinity to the republics obliged us
to give the ornamentation of the Brazilian rooms a sui generis character, in order
to avoid confusion at all costs’, reported Brazilian chief-commissioner Jules
Villeneuve (1868: xxxii-xxxiii, original emphasis).
Territorial demarcation in the palace was achieved through the design of an
interior space specifically coded to convey imperialism and tropical abundance,
as the remainder of this section will discuss. The main entrance to the room
(Fig. 15.1) consisted of two imposing portals and an adjoining wall covered
in a pattern of squares alternating the Brazilian imperial coat of arms and the
dragon of the Bragança dynasty, from which the Brazilian emperor descended.
The pattern was painted in the Brazilian heraldic colours, yellow and green,
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Figure 15.1 Main entrance to the Brazilian room installed at the Champs de Mars
palace during the Exposition Universelle of 1867, Paris. The wall to the left of the
portal was covered in a square pattern alternating the Brazilian imperial coat of
arms and the dragon of the Bragança dynasty and painted in the Brazilian heraldic
colours, yellow and green. Further left, the South American gaucho display can be
seen. Photo from: Ducuing, F. L’Exposition Universelle de 1867 Illustrée: Publication
Internationale, Autorisée par la Commission Impériale. Paris: Administration 106, Rue
Richelieu [1868]. NAL pressmark 504.G.41.
forming an early example of the famous colour scheme that later would be
repeated persistently to signify ‘Brazil’ in patriotic celebrations (Villeneuve
1868: xliv). Before reaching Brazil’s colourful room, visitors had to walk past an
area that,Villeneuve noted contemptuously, ‘the South American republics have
populated with gauchos’ (Villeneuve 1868: xliv).
The term ‘gaucho’ refers to the inhabitants of the Plata basin in South
America, and for the Brazilian commissioner, the display of mannequins in
national costumes resorted to a ‘popular spectacle’ clearly designed ‘to dissimulate the scarcity of their exhibits’ (Villeneuve 1868: xlii). The Empire of Brazil
was against ‘vulgarity and exoticism’, continued Villeneuve, ‘It would have
been easy to decorate our rooms with indigenous costumes, or typical outfits
from the inhabitants of our provinces. However, the [Brazilian] commission
has decided to exhibit products of first necessity for the European commerce
and industries’ (Villeneuve 1868: xlii). What ensued from the official resolve of
identifying Brazil with its ‘inexhaustible resources’, ‘precious products’, ‘fertile
territory’, ‘healthy climate’ and ‘liberal institutions’ was a display like the ‘virgin
forest’, discussed below, an emblematic example of how Brazil was identified
with its territory in 1867 (Villeneuve 1868: xlii).
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Designing Brazilian National Identity at International Exhibitions (1867 and 1904)
265
Figure 15.2 The ‘virgin forest’ was a monumental display of timber from the
Amazonian Forest designed to impress the world. It showed timber previously
unknown in Europe cut in horizontal, vertical and diagonal sections to demonstrate
its special material properties. Around the display, a set designer of the Paris Opéra
painted an interpretation of a tropical forest. Photo from: Ducuing, F. L’Exposition
Universelle de 1867 Illustrée: Publication Internationale, Autorisée par la Commission
Impériale. Paris: Administration 106, Rue Richelieu [1868]. NAL pressmark 504.G.41.
In another room also dedicated to Brazilian exhibits, a monumental display
of timber from the Amazonian Forest was designed to impress the world.
Arranged in a high and broad pyramid, large blocks of timber were cut in horizontal, vertical and diagonal sections to specifically demonstrate their material properties (Fig. 15.2). Around the centrepiece ran a panorama painted by
Auguste Rubé, a set designer from the Paris Opéra, intended to represent a
tropical forest. The dramatic scenario was set underneath a ‘dome formed by
the lofty branches of a tree, behind which one could see the blue and transparent sky’ of springtime Paris (Villeneuve 1868: xlii).The Brazilian timber display
was an open space.Visitors walked around the imposing collection, measuring
their bodies against the gigantic Amazon trees. The spectacular tropical setting
gave visitors an immediate feel of the bounty of the Amazon Forest and, therefore, of Brazil. Nicknamed ‘virgin forest’ by the French press, the display was a
success, boasted Villeneuve, soon one of ‘the most visited places of the exhibition, being reproduced in illustrated magazines, and mentioned in all newspapers and journals’ (Villeneuve 1868: xlii).
At the Exposition Universelle et Internationale of 1867, the Brazilian
virgin forest turned out to be as spectacular and popular as the criticized
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South American display of gauchos. The difference between the two forms
of national identification comes from their intended outcomes. Whilst some
South American republics exhibited regional culture in dress and custom
through models of local dwellers, the Empire of Brazil identified the nation
with its imperial status but also as a virgin territory, empty of people but replete
with untapped natural resources. In Mary Louise Pratt’s words (2008: 60–61),
Brazil was then represented as a ‘place for improvement’ to the eyes of foreign
industrial entrepreneurs, for the Empire equated national development with the
international exploitation of Brazilian resources and the attraction of European
immigrants for population.
‘The Land of Opportunity’: A Republic of Coffee
The Louisiana Purchase International Exposition held in St Louis in 1904
commemorated the centenary of the land purchased from France that
augmented the USA’s territory to continental proportions. Likewise, the St
Louis exhibition mobilized large numbers. It consisted of fifteen mammoth
exhibition palaces and more than 1,500 buildings to accommodate all the
federated states, 34 foreign nations and 20 million visitors in seven months
(Rydell et al. 2000: 56). Thousands of people lived in situ, mostly imported by
exhibition commissioners as human displays of foreignness and primitiveness
(Rydell 1984: 167–168). Privately organized by the Louisiana Purchase
Exposition Company and supported by President Theodore Roosevelt, the St
Louis exhibition aimed to convince citizens that the USA thrived after a period
of economic recession (Rydell 1984: 157).To the world, the fair confirmed the
USA’s growing military power and proposed a ranking of nations, peoples, and
cultures according to the idea of racial segregation (Greenhalgh 1988; Rydell
1984; Rydell and Gwinn 1994; Rydell et al. 2000).
For the Republic of the United States of Brazil instated just fifteen years
earlier, in 1889, the USA’s territorial expansionism and display of power over
the American continent compelled its global repositioning.While in Europe the
attraction of immigrants partly motivated the Empire of Brazil to participate, in
St Louis the Brazilian republic aimed at affirming its geopolitical weight as the
‘second nation’ in the Americas and the first in South America through specific
commercial strategies. As propagandized by the main national publication
designed for and circulated at the exhibition:
Very little is manufactured yet in Brazil for exportation and the manufactured
supply of many articles is not even sufficient for the demands of the country. There
is, therefore, a very good market for foreign goods and splendid opportunities for
the establishment of factories both to supply the home market and for exportation. Especially when taken the fact [sic] that raw material of first-class quality is
inexpensive and abundant, that almost all kinds of machinery enter the country
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Designing Brazilian National Identity at International Exhibitions (1867 and 1904)
267
free of duty, and that labour is plentiful and cheap. (Brazil at the Louisiana Purchase
Exposition 1904: 105)
The logic was simple and seductive: Brazil’s population was growing,
bringing with it ‘plentiful and cheap’ labour and the promise of an expanded
consumer market. In this way, more manufactured and industrialized goods
were necessary, but Brazil’s output was inadequate. If only foreign capital
could continue ‘pouring into the country’ to exploit the ‘inexhaustible’ and
‘abundant’ natural resources, mutual profits for Brazil and its investors would
ensue (Brazil at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition 1904: 4). In contrast to the
want of population seen in 1867 when Brazil was represented as a ‘place for
improvement’, the official line in 1904 presented the country as the ‘land
of opportunity’ (Andermann 2009: 346) where international capital would
find no obstacles to exploit untapped resources. The main avenue for mutual
profitability was Brazil’s ‘black gold’: coffee.
By 1904, Brazil exported four-fifths of the world coffee production, and
coffee alone accounted for more than half of Brazil’s export revenue (Ministère
du Commerce 1906: 119). Exhibition commissioners sent to St Louis were
closely related to the coffee oligarchs who ruled Brazilian politics from 1894,
either by family ties or by holding professional roles in the federal government.
To establish its global position in the beginning of the twentieth century,
Brazilian commissioners devised an exhibition that compounded the idea of
the nation with its most profitable staple, as this section will discuss further.
The effect and response prompted by the virgin forest display in Europe
was replicated in the USA with the extraordinary coffee exhibit housed in
the neoclassical Brazilian pavilion erected in the exhibition park (Fig. 15.3).
Well positioned in the foreign section of the park, the Brazilian pavilion
was designed by Colonel Francisco Souza Aguiar and received awards for
its exquisite ‘French renaissance style of architecture’ (Brazil at the Louisiana
Purchase Exposition 1904: 83). Its interior flaunted grandeur and elegance
with ‘flights of granitoid steps’, marble statues and upholstered settees, large
porticos, and a majestic double staircase that led to a gallery which offered
splendid views of the fairgrounds (Brazil at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition
1904: 83). Although integrated into the Beaux-Arts architectural style prevalent at the St Louis exhibition, an unusual exhibition dominated the palatial
pavilion’s ground floor – an exhibit that went beyond traditional strategies of
display to embrace all the sensorial inputs felt during the making of coffee
(Fig. 15.4).
Every day, on the ground floor of the Brazilian pavilion freshly ground and
brewed coffee was served free of charge to the visiting public.With their imaginations whetted by the powerful and tempting smell that permeated the pavilion, visitors enjoyed their hot drinks and some Brazilian conviviality around
charming little tables placed in the main hall and its open-air loggias. Skilled
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Figure 15.3 The award-winning Brazilian national pavilion designed by Colonel
Francisco Souza Aguiar in the Beaux-Arts style for the Louisiana Purchase Exposition
in St Louis, 1904. Dubbed the ‘Palace of Coffee’ for its vast exhibition of coffee on
the ground floor, the pavilion helped to conflate the association between Brazil and
coffee in the United States of America and beyond. Photo from: Brazil at the Louisiana
Purchase Exposition, St. Louis, 1904. Saint Louis: S.F. Myerson Ptg. Co., 1904. NAL
pressmark A.32.19.
workers from São Paulo prepared and served the ‘flavoursome national beverage’ in small cups, as this is how coffee is appreciated in Brazil (Relatório da
Commissão 1906: 137–138). In total, more than two hundred thousand pounds
of coffee by weight were served. Brazilian commissioners exulted in the success
of their coffeehouse and the commercial advantage ‘of greatly popularizing the
use of the Brazilian coffee under its own name instead of under the fictitious
name of Java or Mocha, by which it is commonly sold’ (‘Brazil at the World’s
Fairs’ 1904: 20). Asserting the provenance of the best coffee beans was matched
by another central rationale for turning the national pavilion into a Palace of
Coffee. In the process of nationalizing the commercialization of coffee, it also
became paramount to ‘Brazilianize’ coffee drinking, as shown by the emphasis
on drinking rituals and the attempt to change preparation and consumption
habits in the USA.
In associating nation and coffee, commissioners designed displays centred
also on coffee production. Adjacent to where coffee was being served at the
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Designing Brazilian National Identity at International Exhibitions (1867 and 1904)
269
Figure 15.4 The exhibition of coffee mounted in the interior of the Brazilian
national pavilion unusually emphasized the sensorial experiences of coffee
consumption and production together with its visual displays.Visitors could touch
the beans displayed and smell coffee being roasted, ground and prepared in the
premises. Hot coffee was served free of charge everyday in dainty little cups to
change consumption habits in the United States of America. Photo from: Brazil at the
Louisiana Purchase Exposition, St. Louis, 1904. Saint Louis: S.F. Myerson Ptg. Co., 1904.
NAL pressmark A.32.19.
Brazilian pavilion, operating machines instructed visitors on how coffee was
transformed and packaged in sacks for exportation.Visitors could touch, smell
or taste the beans displayed in open sacks, judge them by colour or shininess,
and choose their preferred variety from among the many cultivated in Brazil.
Roasting machines processed raw coffee from green beans into hard, brown ones;
grinding machines turned shells into a powder which was then brewed into the
fragrant beverage served in those peculiar, small Brazilian cups. Photographs of
Brazilian fazendas (coffee farms) and plantations reinforced the exhibitionary
progression from beans to beverage by exposing coffee cultivation and harvest
in Brazil (Relatório da Commissão 1906: 138).
The republic mounted displays of various natural resources and products in
at least thirteen other department buildings. Brazil was represented as a cohesive
political unit, albeit culturally segregated into primitive and modern regions
and peoples as per the worldview proposed by the St Louis exhibition. At the
Forestry and Game department, for example, Brazil’s Amazon and Northern
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regions were framed as the loci of primitivism in Brazil via displays of timber
and rubber that heightened their unskilled extraction. This was in contrast to
the more complex and skilled work of coffee cultivation shown in the compelling exhibition at the national pavilion that inextricably associated Brazil and
coffee in the North American and European consciousnesses.
Coffee, as discussed here, was represented as the agricultural, cultivated
solution for Brazil’s future. Domestically, coffee production and oligarchic
politics occurred near the country’s largest urban centres, Rio de Janeiro and
São Paulo, thus framed as the loci of modernization and modernity in Brazil.
The construction of a national identity conducive to that of a ‘Republic of
Coffee’ in 1904 was therefore politically as well as economically motivated.The
identification between nation and coffee – and the subsequent materialization
of this concept in specific displays – served not only to strengthen commercial
ties between oligarchs and international businesses but also to establish oligarchs’
hegemony over the country.
Reconsidering the National Paradigm Built on Exclusion
On 1 May 2010, another international exhibition opened. Expo 2010 Shanghai
China, to give it its official name, celebrated China’s international power by
promoting urban modernization as the locus of modernity. The exhibition
proposed ‘Better Cities, Better Life’, a theme which participating countries
interpreted in their own ways. In Shanghai, Brazil was represented again by
a tropical forest, a trope this time employed in the surface design of its shedstructured pavilion (Expo 2010 Shanghai China; retrieved 30 April 2009 from
http://en.expo2010.cn/c/en_gj_tpl_29.htm). Unlike the virgin forest display
of 140 years earlier, the Brazilian pavilion in Shanghai was designed, paradoxically, to celebrate ‘pulsating cities’ (Expo 2010 Shanghai China). ‘The tropicalforest-like Brazil Pavilion [sic] shows off the cultural diversity and dynamism
of Brazilian cities’, states the Expo’s official website. The incongruity is striking.
Few images could misrepresent urban dynamism and cultural diversity more
than that of a tropical forest. Nevertheless, the conflicting representation of
Brazil seen in Shanghai was no novelty.
As discussed in this chapter, tropical nature, urban modernization and Brazil’s
population have been seen as historical national ‘problems’ that frequently
emerged through the cracks of seemingly positive representations. Brazil’s
exhibitionary efforts, across the Empire (1822–1889) and the First Republic
(1889–1930), were based repeatedly on exclusion. ‘Brazilians’ themselves were
largely absent from the national representations seen abroad, especially those
from working and peasant classes, black descendants and indigenous peoples.
At the Exposition Universelle of 1867, Brazilian exhibition commissioners
criticized other South American nations for displaying the material culture and
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Designing Brazilian National Identity at International Exhibitions (1867 and 1904)
271
costumes of gauchos. They named those displays of customs ‘artifices’ used to
offset a supposedly ‘scarcity’ of exhibits. Brazil, instead, had nature that could
provide products ‘of first necessity for European commerce and industries’.The
enslavement of black people, internationally condemned by then, was described
in this period as a sort of ‘humanitarian slavery’ by one of the several propaganda
publications that sought to mitigate ‘preconceptions’ against the country (The
Empire of Brazil at the Paris International Exhibition 1867: 30–31). Material
cultures from Brazil’s numerous indigenous peoples were chiefly confined to
the anthropological departments of exhibitions and displayed to exemplify
allegedly past human stages. Indigenous people were as such excluded from the
present. Rural Brazil, especially during the Republic, represented an antithesis
to the optimistic view of national modernization and modernity with which
the state wanted to be identified.
Brazilian population and society were, and are to date, distinguished
by their multiracial and multicultural make-up. This, I argue, constituted a
representational problem for exhibition commissioners. International exhibitions
commenced by gathering, classifying and ranking the ‘works of industry of all
nations’ but considerably extended this classification and ranking to exhibiting
nations and to those exhibited as colonial possessions. The Louisiana Purchase
International Exposition in 1904 epitomized this phenomenon by placing
nations, cultures and peoples in a supposedly evolutionary, progressive scale that
promoted the white race and Western cultures as the pinnacle of civilization.To
succeed in this increasingly divided and radicalized world, Brazilian exhibition
commissioners opted for excluding the plural and diverse characteristics of the
Brazilian population and their cultures.
In the first decades of the twenty-first century, Brazil has become big news.
International commentators have hailed the country and its recent economic
and political success as ‘Latin America’s big success story’ (‘Brazil Takes Off: A
14-Page Special Report on Latin America’s Big Success Story’ 2009: 13). Has
that great future so often predicted by exhibition commissioners finally arrived
for Brazil? Whatever predictions may be true, with economic and political
growth come new challenges for national development within a context of
material and representational global exchanges. Brazil’s ascension as a coming
power was endorsed by its successful bids to host two major global tournaments,
the FIFA World Cup in 2014 and the Olympic games in 2016. As a result, international eyes have turned again towards Brazil and its status as a democratic,
modern and progressing nation is closely scrutinized. How will cultural diversity and urban dynamism be represented on national soil during these games?
What will be made visible and what will remain excluded? Most importantly,
how will Brazil’s exploitation of natural resources and its national development
project equate with the global debate on sustainability that demands a restructuring of traditional paradigms of production and consumption? These shifts
also imply the reconsideration of traditional ways of approaching design and
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Livia Rezende
the writing of design history. They require a move from the territorialization
of the discipline towards a conceptualization of design as a cultural phenomenon that includes not only the canons established by the professionals but also
the broader material and immaterial production of the Brazilian population
while acknowledging them as global experiences.
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Livia Rezende is Tutor in History of Design at the MA programme jointly
run by the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Royal College of Art and Tutor
in Critical and Historical Studies at the Royal College of Art. Her main areas
of research expertise and interest include International Exhibitions and World’s
Fairs; the history of conceptualization and display of nature; and cultural and
pedagogical exchanges between Latin America and Europe, from modernism
to the institutionalization of design education in the mid-twentieth century.
She is the author of several articles and book chapters including ‘Beyond
Natural Beauty, Bounty and National Boundaries: Actualizing the Debate
on the “Brazilian Contemporary”’, Prova (2014) and ‘Designing the State at
Brazil’s Independence Centennial International Exhibition’, in Design Frontiers.
Territories, Concepts,Technologies (Editorial Designio 2014).
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This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
Index
Note: Page numbers in bold indicate illustrations.
Africa 13–14, 23–38
African design 27–30
national design histories 30–7
treatment 23–5, 38n2
see also South Africa; southern
Africa
al-Saouda,Youssef 134–7
Alamo, The 218–19, 219
Allen, Betty 199–200
America see United States of America
Anderson, Benedict 3–4, 9, 65, 135, 144
Anker, Peder 181
Appadurai, Arjun 2, 4–5
archaeology 27–8, 28, 135–6
architecture
Brazilian pavilion 250
Cape Dutch 64
columns 226–39
Jamaican house layout 233
Japanese national character 97–8
Latin America 254–5
Mexican-American fast food outlets
217–18, 221
planning permission 226
vernacular 174
Western-style in Japan 94–5, 95
archives 12, 60, 67, 260
Asmal, Zahira 72
Australia 118, 203
authenticity 15, 120–1, 163, 167, 179–80,
220–4
definition 211
automobile culture 216
Ayton, Marlene 238
Ba’alback 136–8
Balibar, Etienne 182
Banu, Lisa 184–5
Barthes, Roland 128
Beecher, Catharine 204
Belasco, Warren 215–16
Bell, David A. 26
Bell, Glenn 217
see also Taco Bell
Bengali advice writers 204
Benjamin, Walter 263
Bentley, Nicolas 199
satire 201
Berger, Stefan 7–8
Betty Crocker’s Guide to Easy Entertaining 191,
191–2
Bhabha, Homi K. 189
biculturalism 89
Billig, Michael 4
Bjørnsen, Magnus 38n2
Bohemia 142–53
geography 146
glass objects 143, 146, 153, 249
Bolívar, Simón 249–50
Bonsiepe, Gui 9, 245, 260
borders 2–3, 6–7, 11, 17, 33, 44, 188–9, 205,
213–14
Bost, Suzanne 218–20
brands 69–70, 79–81, 86, 90, 142, 150, 152,
157–60, 163, 165–6, 165–8
Brazil 246, 259–72
‘Brazilians’ 270–2
conversadeira 253, 253–4
Empire of Brazil 250, 262–6
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276
Index
Brazil (cont.)
exhibitions 250, 264, 266–70, 268
First Republic 266–70
Gini index 242–3
Briggs, Mitchell Pirie 199–200
Britain 96
British design 158, 160
Carribean diaspora 178
imperial supremacy 229
‘Made in Britain’ 167–8
Brownell, Fred 68
Brunner,Vratislav Hugo, glass 143
Brussels Expo (1958) 150
Brychtová, Jaroslava 151
Burberry 160
Burges, William 95–6
Caribbean 228, 239n1
diaspora 178
Castillo, Greg 6
Catholic Church 247–8
Chakrabarty, Dipesh 4, 15–16
Chatterjee, Partha 4–5, 136, 185
Chiha, Michel 137–8
China 106n4
bowl found in Kenya 28
‘Made in China’ 168
manufacturing 160
Chipkin, Ivor 42
Christensen, Olav 178
civilization 33, 62, 135–7, 180, 256n5, 263, 271
Clark, Helen 79–81
classics, design copies 82–3
Clifford, James 230
coffee 252, 259–72
Palace of Coffee 268–9
Cold War 149
colonialism 10–11, 62–5
columns 226–39, 227, 232–4
communication design
food 214–15, 217–20, 223
Latin America 246–9
South Africa 60–72
see also political design
communism 149–52, 151
Conder, Josiah 95–6
conversadeira 253, 253–4
Cook, Ian 212
Cooper, Frederick 25–6
copyright see intellectual property rights
cosmopolitanism 82
country of origin 157, 159–63, 168
Crang, Philip 212
Creolization 239n1
cross-cultural interaction 221
Cullen Collection of glass 141–2, 146
Cullen, Paul, rug designs 84
cultural mining 223–4
Currell, Sue 192
Czech Republic 141–53
glass objects 143, 146, 153
Dandi March 109–12, 117–20
virtual performance 118–20, 119
Danish design 157–69
‘Designed in Denmark’ 165–7
‘Made in Denmark’ 163–5
Davis, Mitchie 231, 237, 239n3
De Arte 52, 52–3, 53
de Grazia,Victoria 202
de Iturbide, Agustín 249
bonbonniers 249
De Lisser, Diana 229, 237, 239n2
Decker, Kimberly J. 212, 223
DeLappe, Joseph 118–20, 119
Denmark see Danish design
Derrida, Jacques 15
design 8–11
definition 28–9, 44–5, 165
design education see education
Dilnot, Clive 42
DIY (do it yourself) 78–9
domestic advice books 188–206, 191
analysing 205–6
Donegal tweed 162
Downer, Kemoy and Hendin 232–3, 237
Dresser, Christopher 99
Du Toit, Rev. S.J. 65
Ebony 195
economy
economic downturn (2007) 82
redistribution of wealth 242
Edensor, Tim 3, 8–9
education 42–5, 57–8, 260
academic conferences in southern Africa
47–9
academic journals in southern Africa 49–57
American Studies 192–4, 206, 206n2
design qualifications in southern Africa
45–7
feminism and postcolonial studies 227–8
in Latin America 244–5
segregation 67
Eger, Elizabeth 238
Egypt 34
Eichler, Lillian 200–2
Eley, Geoff 25
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Index
Elias, Norbert 196–7
empires
Empire of Brazil 250, 262–6
Indian symbols 115
nation-empire 5, 26, 33–5
US 193, 213
ethnic minorities 172–3, 178
see also Pakistani Home in Norway;
Roma
etiquette books 188–206
exhibitions see international
exhibitions
exhibitions at home 152–3
see also museums
Fallan, Kjetil 10, 43, 164, 202–3
fashion design 157
labels 157, 162, 169
feminism 53, 56, 204, 218, 227–8
women not included 111, 123n2
Ferguson, James 24, 26
Fernandez, Silvia 245
Ferry, Emma 194
FIFA World Cup
(2010) 72
(2014) 271
Figueroa, Pedro José 249
Fine, Gary Alan 221
flags
India 114–15
Mexico 247
South Africa 64, 64–5, 68
Foley, Fiona 118
‘folk’ 120, 179–81
Fonseca,Vanessa 214, 224
food
ethnic food 212–13
fast food 215–16
food culture 211, 214
food design 17, 214–15, 217–20, 223
Grow-More-Food India 115–16
‘foreign’ 229
Fouchet, Max-Pol 130
France
colonial rule 127
French Revolution 250
Frantz, Susanne K. 147
Frederick, Christine 198
free trade and exchange see trade
Frey, Dagobert 104
Frito Bandito 218
Fry, Tony 7
Fuck Afrika I 23, 24
Furness, Frank 250
277
furniture design 77–8, 82–6, 163–7, 179, 250,
253–4
Fusser,Vilem 29
Gandhi, Mahatma 112, 117–18
Dandi March 109–12, 117–20
‘gaucho’ 264, 270–1
Gay-Para, Jean-Prosper 129, 138
Gaytán, Marie Sarita 220, 222–3
Gebhardt Mexican cookbook 214–15
Gellner, Ernest 2–3, 9
gender 204
Georg Jensen, candle holders 160
George, Rosemary Marangoly 204
Germany 103–4, 204
glass 141–53
craft making 148
Moser 149
national qualities 148
globalization 8, 25–7, 242–4
global design history 11–18
Goodrum, Alison 86
Goodwin, Francis 96
Gorman, Carma 15
Gothic style 96
government initiatives
Britain 158
Denmark 158, 164
India’s British government 109
Japan 94–101
Lebanon 127–30, 137
New Zealand Design Taskforce 80–1
South Africa 61–73, 69–70
Sweden 174–5, 179
Zimbabwe ‘patriotic history’ 31
see also import restrictions; intellectual
property rights; international exhibitions;
legislation; protectionist policies;
Republic Day Parade
Grahn, Wera 177
Granta 23
graphic design 125–39
‘Mary Quant Years’ 132
‘Swiss School’ 131
see also communication design
Great Exhibition (1851) 33, 149, 158, 164,
250
Greenhalgh, Paul 261
Grundlingh, Albert 67
guild system 247
Habsburg monarchy 144
Hall, Stuart 228, 239n1
Hansen, Karen Tranberg 36
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278
Hård af Segerstad, Ulf 180
Harris, Dianne 194–5
Hartog, François 7
Hayden, Launsby 235
Hayden, Marie 229, 239n2
Hazbun, Waleed 133
Hazelius, Arthur 174
heraldry 69
see also flags
heritage harnessed 174–9
Highmore, Ben 29
Hirsch, Marianne 238
Hispanic market 212, 214–15, 218–20,
223–4
Hobsbawm, Eric 3, 9, 144, 261–3
Hogarth, William 104
Holder, Julian 198
Holton, Robert 243
homogeneity 185, 216, 221
Huppatz, Daniel J. 10, 43–5
hybridity, definition 189
Hyltén-Cavallius, Charlotte 179
i-jusi 70–1, 71
Ibarrola, Ramón 250
Ikon exhibition (2007) 166
Image & Text 49–50, 50–1
import restrictions 76–8
imported goods 27–30, 36, 82, 133, 163, 196,
203, 244–6, 252–3
independence
allegory 249
movements 250
India 109–23, 204
individualism 231–2
industrialization 144, 148, 241–5
Japan 98–102
late in former colonies 9
insourcing 168
intellectual property rights 15, 161–3
International Council of Societies of
Industrial Design (ICSID) 206n4
international exhibitions 99–101, 149–50,
164–5, 250, 259–62
1851 London 33, 149, 158, 164, 250
1855 Paris 250
1867 Paris 262, 264–5, 270–1
1873 Vienna 99, 100
1876 Philadelphia Centennial Exposition
250, 251–2
1900 Paris 100–1, 149
1904 St Louis 149, 266–71, 268
1936 Johannesburg 34–6, 35
1939 New York 172, 173, 179–81
Index
2010 Shanghai 270
see also exhibitions at home
international mobility 82
Ironbridge, birthplace of industry 9–10
Italian design 10, 83
‘Italian’ cars 1
manufactured in China 160
Itō, Chuta 97–8
Izzo, Donatella 193–4
Jakle, John A. 216
Jamaica 226–39
diaspora 234–8
national identity 228–31
Japan 93–106
industrial design 98–102
Meiji era 94–5
national character 97–8
Japonisme 98–9
Johannesburg, Empire Exhibition 34–6, 35
Johnson, Chris 84
journals, South Africa 49–57, 66
Juhl, Finn 164
Kalantidou, Eleni 7
Kassir, Samir 133
Kaufman, Asher 135
Kennedy, Diana 220–1
Kennedy, Liam 193
Kenya, Ming Dynasty bowl found 28
Khoisan 35, 35–6
Kikuchi,Yuko 10
kitchens 198, 199, 202
Klint, Kaare 163–4
Kraidy, Marwan 189
Kravetz, Carl 220
Krog, Antjie 69
labelling
the claims of labels 167–9
country of origin 157, 159–63, 168
examples 157, 159–60, 162, 169
quality seals 165
labour
cheap 36, 82, 266–7
colonialization 11, 34
conditions 160, 168
domestics 204
expensive 80
slave 244, 246
LaCapra, Dominick 15
lace curtains 190
Langdon, Philip 218
Lasch-Quinn, Elisabeth 195
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Index
Latin America 241–55, 262–3
exports 252
nineteenth century 245–55
see also Brazil; Mexico
Leavitt, Sarah A. 190, 202
Lebanon 125–39
advertisements 126–7, 131–2, 136
Ba’alback 136–8
Lee,Yunah 10
Lees-Maffei, Grace 10, 43–5, 158
legislation 158–9, 165, 168–9
Libenskì, Stanislav 151
Lihotsky, Margrete 198
literacy 204
living exhibits 33–4, 35
López, Ana M. 213
Lötz Witwe, Johann 146
Louisiana Purchase Exhibition (1904) 149,
266–71, 268
Louvre 229
Lu, Shun 221
Lyall, John 89
MacGregor, Neil 9
McHugh, Kathleen Anne 192
McMillan, Michael 178
Magubane, Peter 66
Mandela, Nelson 67–9, 72–3
Maori 77
Maoriana 86–9
Margit Brandt, label 169
Margolin,Victor 6, 42
Masaryk, Tomáš Garrigue 147–8
Mathisen, Stein R. 181
May, Arthur J. 229–30, 233
Mbeki, Thabo 70
Mbembe, Achille 38
Meléndez-Klinger, Sylvia 223
Metelák, Alois 148
Mexican-American 211–24, 215–20, 222
Mexico
flag 247
Gini index 242–3
jar with lid 248
pavilion 250, 251–2
stereotypes 217–18, 223
Teatro Juárez 254
see also Mexican-American
Mignolo, Walter 5
Miller, Daniel 82, 231–2
Miller, Nancy K. 238
Ming Dynasty, bowl 28
Mitchell, Timothy 33–4
Moa Room, Paris 85, 86
279
modernization 144, 244–5, 250
Monrreal, Sahar 214
Morris, William 102
article by Tomimoto 103
Mudimbe,V.Y. 32
museums 9–10, 181, 183
Norwegian Museum of Cultural History
176–7
open-air heritage 174–9, 175
Victoria and Albert Museum 158
Naidu, Sarojini 111
naïve 31
nation, definition 76, 104
nation states 2–4, 242–3, 246–7
alternative approaches 6–7
as communities of memory 7
definition 2, 65, 261–2
internal dissension within 121
made possible 241–5
nation-building 135, 158
national identity 8–11, 261
national revivalism, Czech 145
national style 95–6
nationalist discourses 134
nationhood 3–4, 167
Native Agent, baby blanket 88
Nehru, Jawaharlal 113–17, 120
neoclassicism 228–31
New Zealand 76–90
design 84–5
national character 78–9
Norway 172–85
museum of cultural history 176–7
Nuttall, Sarah 38
Olympic games (2016) 271
Ortiz, Fernando 5, 189
Osborne, George 158
Osborne, Rona, baby blanket 88
‘othering’ 178–9
Özkirimli, Umut 3–4, 11–12
Pacey, Philip 44–5
Packer, George 36
pageants 115
see also Republic Day Parade
Pakistani Home in Norway 176–9
Palace of Coffee 268–9
Paris universal exhibitions
(1855) 250
(1867) 262, 264–5, 270–1
(1879, 1889, 1900) 149
(1900) 100–1, 149
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280
Patel,Vallabhbhai 110, 113
Pevsner, Nikolaus 14, 102–6
Philadelphia Centennial Exposition (1876),
Brazilian pavilion 250, 251–2
Phillips, Ruth 6–7
Phoenicians 134–6
picture windows 236
Pikirayi, Innocent 31
Pilcher, Jeffery 213, 218, 221
Pinder, Wilhelm 103
pirated goods 163
political design 108–9, 121–3, 148–52
Dandi March 109–12, 117–20
Republic Day Parade 113–17, 120–1
Post, Emily 198, 200–2
ideal kitchen arrangement 199
postage stamps 112
postcolonialism 4–6, 10–11
Pratt, Mary Louise 266
Prestholdt, Jeremy 30
protectionist policies 245
protest posters 67
quality seals 165
race, whiteness 194–5, 206n3
racialism 93, 102–6, 103–4
Radway, Janice 193
‘Rainbowism’ 68–9
Reagin, Nancy R. 204
Reid, Richard 30–1
Reid,Vic 228–9
Rekindle 83
Republic Day Parade (India) 113–17, 116,
120–1
‘Republican’ symbols 249–50
Ricke, Helmut 145
Roiter, Fulvio 130
Roma 181–4
Rubé, Auguste 265
Said, Edward 32, 189, 230
Saldívar, José David 213
Salt Satyagraha 109, 112, 120
Sami 176, 178, 180–1
satire 199
Sauthoff, Marian 61
Scandinavia 10, 164
see also Danish design
Schlesinger, Arthur M. Snr 196–7
Sculle, Keith A. 216
Second Life 118–20, 119
second-hand clothing see used clothing
trade
Index
Sehnaoui, Mona Bassili 130–3
graphic designs 126, 131–2, 136
Shimoda, Kikutarō 97–8
design for Imperial Diet of Japan 97
Silk Road 1
Skansen 174–9, 175
Skloexport 148
slave trade 1, 26–8, 244
see also labour
Smith, Anthony D. 3–4, 8–9, 144
Smith, Iain R. 73
social status 252–3
South Africa 34–5, 43–57, 60–73,
206n3
(1910-1948) 62–5
(1948-1990) 65–8
(1990-2013) 68–72
facade of Constitutional Court 72
Gandhi 109–10, 123n1
South African Railways (SAR) 62
SARPD advertisements 63
South African Tourist Corporation (Satour)
64, 67
southern Africa 42–58
academic conferences 47–9
academic journals 49–57
design qualifications 45–7
as geographic region 43–4
Souza Aguiar, Francisco 267
Brazilian pavilion 268
Sparke, Penny 197–8
Spoonley, Paul 90
Stafford Cripps, Richard 158
stereotypes
Britishness 229
Mexicans 217–18, 223
in packaging 214–15
qualities of glass 148
Stern, Arden 11
Stone, Christopher 136–7
Swahili mercantile power 28
Sweden 172–85
photo-mural 173
Swiss watches 158–9, 159
Tabet, Jacques 134
Taco Bell 213–17, 216
Hispanic customers 218, 220
image design 217–18
Taikon, Rosa 183–4
ring 184
Tatlow, A.H. 63
Tatsuno, Kingo 95–6, 98
teen-agers 200
This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
Index
Tex-Mex 212
textile industry 30, 36, 160
Thaw Modernism 150
Thomas, Lynn M. 27
Thorpe, Mark 212
Tomimoto, Kenkichi 102
article on William Morris 103
tortilla chips 215
Touma, Michel 129
tourism
American Mexicanism 219
Czech glass 152, 153
Lebanon 125–39
Maoriland 86–9
Mediterranean 133, 137–8
Sami craft 180
South Africa 62–4, 67, 70
trade
country of origin law 156–8
currencies 44
Czech glass 142–4, 148, 150
impact 1, 17, 27–8, 30–7, 38n4, 137
online 83–4
see also international exhibitions; slave
trade
traditions 114
see also ‘folk’
transculturation 189
trend treks 223–4
Trubridge, David, lights 87
Tutu, Archbishop Desmond 68
Tyabji, Abbas 111
typeface design 71–2, 72
United Kingdom 188–206
see also Britain; Wales
281
United States of America 188–206
American Studies 192–4, 206, 206n2
upcycling 85–6
used clothing trade 36–7, 37
Van Wyk, Johan 68, 70
Vary, Karlovy 149
Vaughan, Stanley 237
Victoria and Albert Museum 158
Villeneuve, Jules 263, 265
‘virgin forest’ 265, 265–7
Wainaina, Binyavanga 23
Wales, Big Pit National Coal Museum 9
Walker, Garth 23–4, 36, 38n1, 70–2
Walker, John A. 44
Walker, Randolph 235
Walsh, Judith E. 203–4
Wegner, Hans 164
Westernization 94, 97–8, 133, 150, 243
Japanese 101
Wiegman, Robyn 193, 205
women see under feminism
Woolf,Virginia 227–8, 237–8
Wright, Mary and Russel 202
‘The Kitchen Buffet’ 202
Young, Linda 197, 203
Zambian signs 11
Zanzibar 30
Zeitgeist 98
Zimbabwe 31–2
proof coinage 32
Žižek, Slavoj 195
Zukin, Sharon 60
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This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
MAKING SENSE OF HISTORY
Studies in Historical Cultures
General Editor: Stefan Berger
Founding Editor: Jörn Rüsen
Bridging the gap between historical theory and the study of historical memory,
this series crosses the boundaries between both academic disciplines and cultural,
social, political and historical contexts. In an age of rapid globalization, which
tends to manifest itself on an economic and political level, locating the cultural
practices involved in generating its underlying historical sense is an increasingly
urgent task.
Volume 1
Western Historical Thinking: An Intercultural
Debate
Edited by Jörn Rüsen
Volume 2
Identities:Time, Difference and Boundaries
Edited by Heidrun Friese
Volume 3
Narration, Identity, and Historical
Consciousness
Edited by Jürgen Straub
Volume 4
Thinking Utopia: Steps into Other Worlds
Edited by Jörn Rüsen, Michael Fehr,
and Thomas W. Rieger
Volume 5
History: Narration, Interpretation, Orientation
Jörn Rüsen
Volume 6
Volume 10
Time and History:The Variety of Cultures
Edited by Jörn Rüsen
Volume 11
Narrating the Nation: Representations in
History, Media and the Arts
Edited by Stefan Berger, Linas Eriksonas
and Andrew Mycock
Volume 12
Historical Memory in Africa: Dealing with
the Past, Reaching for the Future in an
Intercultural Context
Edited by Mamadou Diawara, Bernard
Lategan, and Jörn Rüsen
Volume 13
New Dangerous Liaisons: Discourses on
Europe and Love in the Twentieth Century
Edited by Luisa Passerini, Liliana Ellena,
and Alexander C. T. Geppert
Volume 14
The Dynamics of German Industry:
Germany’s Path toward the New Economy
and the American Challenge
Dark Traces of the Past: Psychoanalysis and
Historical Thinking
Volume 7
A Lover’s Quarrel with the Past: Romance,
Representation, Reading
Werner Abelshauser
Meaning and Representation in History
Edited by Jörn Rüsen
Volume 8
Edited by Jürgen Straub and Jörn Rüsen
Volume 15
Ranjan Ghosh
Volume 16
Remapping Knowledge: Intercultural Studies
for a Global Age
The Holocaust and Historical Methodology
Volume 9
What is History For? Johann Gustav
Droysen and the Functions of Historiography
Mihai I. Spariosu
Cultures of Technology and the Quest for
Innovation
Edited by Helga Nowotny
Edited by Dan Stone
Volume 17
Arthur Alfaix Assis
This open access library edition is supported by the University of Oslo and the University of Hertfordshire. Not for resale.
Volume 18
Vanished History:The Holocaust in Czech
and Slovak Historical Culture
Tomas Sniegon
Volume 19
Jewish Histories of the Holocaust: New
Transnational Approaches
Edited by Norman J.W. Goda
Volume 20
Helmut Kohl’s Quest for Normality: His
Representation of the German Nation and
Himself
Christian Wicke
Volume 21
Volume 22
The Rhythm of Eternity:The German
Youth Movement and the Experience of the
Past, 1900–1933
Robbert-Jan Adriaansen
Volume 23
Viktor Frankl’s Search for Meaning: An
Emblematic 20th-Century Life
Timothy E. Pytell
Volume 24
Designing Worlds: National Design Histories
in an Age of Globalization
Edited by Kjetil Fallan and Grace
Lees-Maffei
Marking Evil: Holocaust Memory in the
Global Age
Edited by Amos Goldberg and Haim
Hazan
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