What to Expect on a River Safari in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo
If you love wildlife, I urge you to discover a true gem of Malaysia: the Kinabatangan River. The protected forests along the river - stretching 560km - are home to a stunning diversity of Bornean wildlife, from orangutans to elephants!
This article lets you know what sort of wildlife you can expect to encounter during a river safari on the Kinabatangan River in Sabah, Malaysian Borneo.
Travelling right as the pandemic was winding down, I was the only guest at Sukau Eco Lodge, blessed with private safaris with my guide Suhailie - and we were often the only boat on the Kinabatagan River! Normally, there are more tourists exploring wildlife in Sukau.
About the Kinabatangan River and conservation area
The Kinabatangan River is the second longest river in Malaysia and is lined with 26,000 hectares of protected conservation land called the Kinabatangan Wildlife Sanctuary.
Among the creatures hidden in this forest and river are the Borneo Big 5: pygmy elephants, orangutans, rhinoceros hornbills, proboscis monkeys, and estuarine (saltwater) crocodiles. There are many lodges that offer boat rides on the Kinabatangan River. These “safaris” are led by experienced naturalists who will help you spot the animals.
Spotting wildlife on the Kinabatangan River
Spotting wildlife on the Kinabatangan River is an unforgettable experience that shouldn't be missed while in Borneo. The river is home to many different animals, including some of the rarest and, sadly, most endangered species in the world.
The camps and lodges along the river host tourists for relaxing stays in nature, delicious meals, and river safaris. By waking up before the sun, you are waking up with the monkeys, birds and orangutans. Even before spotting wildlife, the beauty and tranquillity of the forest is a peaceful experience on its own.
During my 3-day and 2-night stay at Sukau Eco Camp, I took three river safaris during which I spotted 4/5 of the Borneo Big 5, as well as plenty of beautiful monkeys and birds.
A great naturalist guide is key to a great experience.
They are the only way to recognize different sounds and smells to find the best places to look. They can also help you understand what you’re seeing, and spot animals from far away.
I was lucky enough to have a fantastic private guide, Suhailie, the in-house naturalist at Sukau Rainforest Lodge and EcoCamp. He was very knowledgeable about all things nature and had a great sense of humour. I would highly recommend booking with him if you can! Contact me if you want me to put you in touch.
NOTE: Keep in mind that wildlife watching is a completely different experience from visiting a zoo. Animals in the wild are free to move about as they please, so there's no telling what you might see on any given day. Instead of having specific expectations, go into your wildlife-watching adventure with an open mind and be prepared to be surprised by what you find.
A view of Sukau Eco Camp from the Kinabatagan River. The porch offers a beautiful river view to enjoy meals from, and basic but comfortable rooms.
Borneo Big Five
Ready for the adventure? Borneo is home to many animals that can only be found on this island, making it a nature lover's paradise. From the majestic Bornean elephant to the bizarre proboscis monkey, you’re likely to see something new here! Let's take a look at the five most exciting animals you may encounter on a Kinabatangan River safari.
Borneo Pygmy Elephants
I was extremely lucky to spot Borneo pygmy elephants. Bornean elephants are the smallest sub-species of elephants and are absolutely stunning! They can grow as tall as 9.8 feet tall and have longer tails and straighter tusks (if they have tusks) than other Asian elephants.
When spotted along the Kinabatangan River, they’re usually found in small sub-family or larger full-family groups taking a river bath or chowing down on a buffet of elephant grass by the water. Only about 1,500 of these magnificent elephants are left, with an estimated 300 in the area near Sukau.
Spotted! In an incredible and exciting moment, I saw a sub-family of Bornean Pygmy Elephants enjoying breakfast in tall elephant grass on the shore of the Kinabatangan River.
A highlight of my world travels so far has been seeing elephants in the wild! It happened during an early morning safari with Suhailie, while we talked about a palm plantation we boated by. He was telling me about how plantations consider elephants as pests because they love to devour shoots of palms. Right then, he got quiet and pointed me to the other side of the river, where a small group of elephants was having their breakfast!
We stayed about 30 meters away by boat to give the elephants their peace, and enjoyed a quiet morning watching in wonder. For about twenty minutes, we were the only people there, and Suhailie shared some information about the elephants with me and answered my questions so I could appreciate the experience even more.
I can’t imagine a better way to start a day! We checked back during our evening safari, and the same group of elephants was still there, this time enjoying a bath. It was precious to see them in their natural habitat.
Bornean Orangutans
Another adorable mammal you might spot while on the Kinabatangan River is the orangutan! In Malay, the word orangutan actually means “person of the forest,” which makes sense to me considering that humans and orangutans share 97% of the same DNA.
At Sukau Rainforest Lodge, I was lucky enough to see an orangutan swinging from trees while I walked around the property! Suhailie told me they call her Lucky, and she often hangs out there with her children Day and Hope. She was so close that I could see her without binoculars, which was incredible. That said, orangutans tend to stay high up in the trees, so you’ll definitely want binoculars on hand to see what they’re up to.
Orangutans are one of the most critically endangered species in the world, and they can only be found on the islands of Borneo and Sumatra. WWF estimates that there are as few as 104,000 Bornean orangutans left in the wild, representing a loss of more than half of the population in the last hundred years. Sukau Rainforest Lodge estimates that approximately 1,000 orangutans live in the area.
When spotting an orangutan, you’ll likely see them climbing trees and vines, taking frequent breaks, or snacking on tree bark or fruits, like lychees and figs. Bornean Orangutans, like those found here in Sabah, have darker fur and are more maroon in colour (Orangutan Conservancy).
Along the narrower passages of the Kinabatangan River, you may notice ropes hanging from trees going high across the river. These are “orangutan bridges” set up by conservationists to help them safely cross the river for food while avoiding predators.
Naturalists are great at spotting orangutan nests - which look a lot like huge bird nests - high up in trees. These can help them determine the approximate distance of orangutans. They actually make a different nest every single evening as individual orangutans move around the forest a lot in search of food, and to escape predators.
Remember: Keeping a good distance is always important for your safety and for the respect and well-being of wildlife. Orangutans on the ground are normally flanged males, which can be extremely territorial. Nonetheless, I swear those up in the trees love to put on a show, posing and looking right at you from afar, with an innate curiosity that is so beautiful to witness.
Sukau Rainforest Lodge is lucky to have this orangutan, Lucky, often hanging around the lodge! It’s a joy to watch her swing from the branches above.
Hornbills (and other birds!)
If you aren’t a huge admirer of birds, Sabah may change your mind. This Malaysian state offers the opportunity to spot 688 bird species - including over 200 found along the Kinabatangan River, from cute pittas and to magnificent falcons. According to Sabah Tourism, some of the birding highlights of the Kinabatangan River include the Storm’s Stork, Oriental Darter, and all eight species of hornbills. The prize sighting, though, is the Rhinoceros Hornbill - Malaysia’s beautiful multi-coloured national bird.
The Rhinoceros Hornbill is the only “Borneo Big 5” animal that I did not see in Sabah - though I was not disappointed by the cute pittas, magnificent falcons or beautiful oriental pied hornbills I spotted! The most common one I saw was the Bushy Crested Hornbill, a nearly all-black hornbill.
Hornbills have fascinating social behaviours, like mating for life and rituals for selecting a “home,” where the male must introduce his female partner to three or more tree cavities before she agrees to one. This is the epitome of a mother’s instinct, as only she knows the perfect space with the perfect temperature for successfully hatching babies. Each hornbill species has its own distinct
call and behaviours.
The rhinoceros hornbill is classified as “near threatened” and local naturalists and conservationists are supporting all hornbill populations by building artificial nests - a successful endeavour so far.
A great guide, like Suhailie, will hear birds calling from a distance and be able to distinguish them by sound. He brought books along to show me birds on paper, which helped me know what to look for and learn along the way. With binoculars, I grew my appreciation for the diversity and beauty of birds.
Admittedly, I can now fully see myself as a “birder” in my 60s.
Proboscis monkeys (and friends!)
One of the most unique animals you’ll no doubt see along the Kinabatangan River is the Proboscis Monkey. Distinguished by their big bellies and extra-long noses, these monkeys definitely stand out from the crowd of macaques or gibbons. Their funny noses are believed to be a feature which echoes their mating call and - believe it or not - helps them attract mates. If only this worked in human life, I would definitely be winning!
Proboscis monkeys aren’t found anywhere else but Borneo, and you are sure to see dozens of them darted throughout the trees during an evening cruise on the Kinabatangan River.
In the narrower passages off the main river, you’ll also find yourself up close with smaller primates, like long-tailed and pig-tailed macaques and Bornean gibbons, playing and eating in trees next to the river.
Macaque monkeys, both pig-tailed and long-tailed, line the trees in many areas around Sukau.
Estuarine crocodiles
Last of the Borneo Big 5: you can find the world’s largest crocodiles here in the Kinabatangan River!
Estuarine or saltwater crocodiles weighing 200 - 1000 kg swim in these waters and sunbathe on the banks. According to Borneo EcoTours, these crocodiles are born with hunting skills, preying and eating “insects, crabs and prawns” from the moment they hatch.
From a distance in the boat, I saw crocs drying in mud on the river shore, and in one quick instance saw a crocodile longer than 4 metres demonstrating its fast swimming ability in the muddied river. Personally, I’m satisfied with those distanced sightings!
The wildest thing of all is that I also saw locals in Sukau jumping and playing in the river - a risk I most certainly wouldn’t suggest with these predators afoot, as news reports show a number of attacks over the years, supposedly more and more frequent as habitat loss increases.
Hello from my chariot! We used this boat to search for wildlife along the river for two hours in the early morning and two hours before sunset and kept an eye out for the world’s largest crocs in these waters.
Enjoy your river safari!
Nature lovers, wait no longer and book your trip to the Kinabatangan River!
Given the rich biodiversity in the area, there’s always a chance to encounter something special. I definitely recommend staying 2-3 nights minimum to increase your odds of spotting as many Big 5 animals as possible.
At worse, you’ll get to enjoy the company of monkeys and birds in a serene oasis. Plus, you might be pleasantly surprised by chance encounters with some of the world's most rare and beautiful animals. Embrace the unknown and explore this hidden gem of conservation in Malaysian Borneo!
- Lynne
